THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 

OF  CALIFORNIA 

DAVIS 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

in  2007  with  funding  from 

IVIicrosoft  Corporation 


http://www.archive.org/details/fouryearsingoverOOcolvrich 


tf 

2 
H 


EOUR   YEARS 


GOVERNMENT  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION; 


COMMANDED  BY 

CAPTAIN  CHARLES  WILKES, 

TO  THE 

ISLAND    OF   MADEIRA CAPE    VERD    ISLAND — BRAZIL COAST 

OF   PATAGONIA CHILI PERU PAUMATO    GROUP SOCI- 
ETY ISLANDS NAVIGATOR    GROUP AUSTRALIA AN- 
TARCTIC   CONTINENT NEW    ZEALAND FRIEND- 
LY      ISLANDS FEJEE       GROUP SANDWICH 

ISLANDS NORTHWEST    COAST    OF    AME- 
RICA  OREGON CALIFORNIA EAST 

INDIES ST.    HELENA,  &C.5  &C. 

IN    ONE    VOLUME. 
BY 

LIEUT.  GEO.  M.  COLVOCORESSES,  U.  S.  Navy, 

AN   OFFICER    OF   THE    EXPEDITION. 


SECOND    EDITION. 

NEW   YORK:  '-^< 

R.    T.    YOUNG,    PUBLISHER, 

No.    140   Fulton   Street. 


185  3. 


LIBRARY 
UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFOfia^lA 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress  in  the  year  1862,  by 

CORNISH,    LAMPORT    &    CO., 

In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United   States,    for  tho 

Southern  District  of  New  York. 


Stereotyped  by  Vincent  Dill,  Jr., 
No.  29  Beelc:nan  Street.  N.  T. 


PREFACE 


It  may  be  proper  to  observe,  as  affording  some  guarantee 
for  the  correctness  of  the  information  contained  in  this 
Volume,  that  it  has  been  compiled  from  a  Journal,  or  a  Diary, 
which  the  author  kept  in  obedience  to  a  "  General  Order'' 
from  the  Navy  Department,  and  that  the  Journal  in  question 
was  frequently  submitted  to  the  Commander-in-Chief  of  the 
Expedition  for  his  inspection  and  perusal. 

The  work  will  be  found  to  embrace  incidents  occurring  on 
board  the  ship.  Descriptions  of  Natural  Scenery,  Manners 
and  Customs,  Government,  Religion,  and  Commerce. 

By  adopting  a  more  diffusive  style,  I  might  have  exceeded 
my  present  limits  ;  instead  of  one  such  volume  I  might  have 
produced  two  or  three,  but  the  general  reader  would  have 
gained  nothing  by  this,  his  main  object  being  to  gather  in- 
formation, and  the  more  succinctly  it  is  conveyed  to  him  the 
more  rapidly  he  will  acquire  it,  and  more  easily  retain  it.  In 
short,  I  have  endeavored  to  furnish  a  work  which  should  have 
the  merit  of  being  instructive  and  entertaining,  concise  and 
cheap  ;  and  I  hope  that  the  present  volume  will  be  found  to 
possess  all  these  advantages. 

G.  M.  C. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER    I. 

Departure  from  Norfolk — Weather — Orders  to  the  **  Relief"  to  proceed 
to  Rio  Janeiro — Orders  for  the  remainder  of  the  vessels  to  rendezvous 
at  Funchal — St.  Michael's  Island — Vast  Fields  of  Sea  Weed — ^Impression 
they  made  on  Columbus's  men — Arrival  at  Madeira — Beautiful 
scenery — General  Description  of  the  Island — Manufactures — Personal 
appearance  of  the  Peasantry — Their  dress  and  habitations — Culture  of 
the  Grape — Description  of  Funchal — Monks  unpopular  with  the  present 
Government— Nunneries — The  celebrated  recluse,  Maria  Clementina — 
How  the  Nuns  support  themselves — Cheapness  of  labor — Public  Amuse- 
ments— Portuguese  etiquette  previous  to  dancing — Beauty  of  the  En- 
virons— Ride  to  the  famous  Cural — Catholic  Burial  Ground — Story  of 
Robert  Machim  and  Anna  D'Arfet. 

CHAPTER    II. 

Departure  for  the  Cape  de  Verde  Islands — Phosphorescence  of  the  Ocean 
— Arrival  at  St.  Jago — Description  of  the  Capital — Passage  to  Brazil 
— Arrival  at  Rio  Janeiro — ^^The  TJ.  States  Frigate  **  Independence" — 
Observations  on  Rio  Janeiro  and  its  Commerce  with  the  United  States 
— Passage  to  Terra  del  Fuego — The  enemies  of  the  flying-fish — Arrival 
at  Good  Success  and  Relief  Bays — Orange  Harbor — Description  of  the 
country  in  its  vicinity — General  Observations  on  the  Natives  of  Terra 
del  Fuego — Departure  for  Valparaiso — A  terrific  storm  off  Noir  Island 
— Loss  of  all  our  Anchors  and  Cables,  and  narrow  escape  from  Ship- 
wreck— Arrival  at  Valparaiso — Obliged  to  borrow  an  anchor  from 
H.  B.  M.  Ship  **  President." 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER    III. 

General  Description  of  Chili — Climate — Earthquakes — Valparaiso  and  its 
Commerce — Observations  on  the  Inhabitants — Amusements — Religion — 
Education — The  Army  and  Navy — Newspapers — President  Prieto'a 
visit  to  Valparaiso — His  reception  by  the  citizens — Arrival  of  the 
"  Peacock,"  "  Vincennes,"  and  "  Porpoise"— Splendid  ball  given  by 
the  citizens  of  Valparaiso  in  honor  of  the  Victory  of  Yungai. 

CHAPTER    IV. 

Arrival  at  Callao  Harbor — Chilian  Squadron,  and  famous  Fortress — Ob- 
servations on  the  City — Visits  to  Lima — Description  of  the  peculiar 
dress  of  the  Liminian  ladies — The  Theatre — Vice  President  Lafuente — 
The  country  in  possession  of  the  Chilians — Deplorable  state  of  affairs — 
The  "  Relief"  ordered  to  the  United  States — Fears  are  entertained  for 
the  safety  of  the  Schooner  *'  Sea  Gull" — Lieutenant  Craven  goes  in 
search  of  her. 

CHAPTER    V. 

Departure  for  Society  Islands — Appearance  of  the  Coral  Islands — How 
they  are  formed — The  Natives  of  Calermont  de  Tonerre  refuse  to  let 
Captain  Wilkes  land — Obliged  to  fire  blank  cartridges  at  them — Their 
personal  appearance — Alarm  fires  during  the  night — Arrival  at  the 
Island  of  Aurora — Remarks  on  its  Inhabitants. 


CHAPTER    VI. 

Arrival  at  Tahiti — General  Description  of  the  Island— The  Governor  of 
Matavi  comes  on  board  to  engage  the  washing  of  the  officers — His  per- 
sonal appearance — A  stroll  in  the  direction  of  Papeite — Kind  treatment 
received  from  the  Natives — The  Women  at  Point  Venus— Encomiums 
passed  on  them  by  voyagers — Send  the  Seamen  to  the  Native  Chapel  to 
attend  Divine  Service — Description  of  the  Chapel — Rev.  Mr.  Wilson,  the 
only  survivor  of  the  first  Missionaries — Female  passion  for  Singing — The 
Squadron  leaves  for  Papiete — Objections  to  its  Harbor — Des'^ription  of 
^he  Tahitian  Flag — Received  a  Present  from  the  Queen — A  Commercial 
Treaty— A  Native  Dance  on  board  the  ship— The  King-consort  break- 
fasts with  Captain  Hudson — Character  of  the  Queen — Infueuce  of 
Mr.  Pritchard. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER    VII. 

Description  of  the  Navigator  Islands — An  American  citizen  murdered  by 
a  Native — Apprehension  of  the  Murderer — Sentenced  by  Captain  Hud- 
son to  be  hung — The  Chiefs  object  to  have  the  sentence  carried  into 
execution  on  shore — The  Criminal  is  taken  away  and  put  on  Wallis' 
Island — The  Christian  and  Devil  Parties — Manners  and  Customs — 
Departure  of  the  Squadron  for  Australia — Arrival  in  Sydney  during 
the  night — Remarks  of  the  Press. 

CHAPTER    VIII. 
Discovery  and  Settlement  of  Australia,  derived  from  Chambers's  Papers. 

CHAPTER    IX. 

Commercial  and  Political  Greatness  of  New  South  Wales — Character  of 
the  Population — Complaints  against  the  Mother  Country — Flourishing 
condition  of  Sydney — Principal  Articles  of  Export — Interior  of  the 
country — Minerals — Several  kinds  of  animated  creatures  totally  unlike 
those  found  elsewhere — Observations  on  the  Aboriginal  Inhabitants. 

CHAPTER    X. 

Departure  for  the  South  Pole — Kind  treatment  experienced  by  us  at 
Sydney — Arrangements  for  keeping  the  Ship  comfortable — Appearance 
of  Icebergs — A  new  Continent  discovered  by  the  Expedition — Eighty 
Ice  Islands  in  sight  at  once — Fired  at  a  Sea  Elephant— Captured  a  King 
Penguin — His  appearance — Aurora  Australis — State  of  the  Weather — 
Sickness  among  the  crew — Filled  the  Water  Tanks  with  Ice — Left 
Orders  on  a  Berg  for  the  "  Peacock" — Return  to  Sydney — French 
Exploring  Squadron. 

CHAPTER    XI. 

Arrival  at  New  Zealand — Observations  on  the  Island,  and  its  Inhabitants 
— The  Chiefs  make  a  Cession  of  their  Lands,  Authority  and  Persons  to 
Queen  Victoria— Report  of  the  English  bribing  the  Chiefs — Pomare 
visits  the  Ship — His  personal  appearance,  and  private  character — 
Arrival  of  the  "  Porpoise"  from  her  Southern  Cruise. 

CHAPTER    XII. 

Passage  from  New  Zealand  to  Tonga  Islands — Communicate  with  an 
American  Whale  Ship.  Pass  a  Water  Spout— Sail  through  a  large 
field  of  Sperm  Whale   feed— Anchor   at   Nookualof a— Visited  by   the 


CONTENTS. 


Missionaries — Christian  and  Heathen  Parties  at  War  with  each  other 
— Arrival  of  a  War  Canoe  filled  with  Christian  Warriors — Eight 
Heathens  or  Devils  killed  in  a  skirmish — Visited  by  several  Heathen 
Chiefs — Their  Complaints  against  the  Christians — Description  of  Noo- 
kualofa  Town — Manufacture  of  Tapa — Visits  of  the  two  Kings,  Josiah 
and  George,  at  the  Observatory — An  American  Whale  Ship  wrecked — 
Preparations  for  going  to  Sea — Pilot  refuses  to  take  us  out  of  the 
Harbor — Proceed  to  Sea — Productions  and  Climate  of  Tonga  Island — 
Intercourse  with  the  Fejee  Group — Manners — Customs — Government — 
Religion — Education — Missionaries. 

CHAPTER    XIII. 

Arrival  at  the  Fejee  Islands — Description  of  Levuka  Harbor — Visit  from 
its  Head  Chief — Visited  the  Shore — Beautiful  Scenery — Witness  a 
Native  Female  Dance — The  Girls  beg  from  us  some  Paint — King  Toanoa 
arrives  from  Ambou — His  reception — The  King  and  his  Chiefs  visit  the 
Ship — His  alarm  at  the  sound  of  the  guns — He  spends  on  board  all  the 
following  day — His  return  to  Ambou — Receive  a  visit  from  his  Queen 
and  eldest  Son — The  cruel  character  of  the  latter— The  Peacock  cap- 
tures the  Chief  Vendovi — An  account  of  his  attack  on  the  *'  Charles 
Daggett" — Send  officers  and  men  to  the  Observatory  to  protect  it 
against  a  night  attack  from  the  Natives — Taboo  taken  off  the  Cocoanut 
trees — Sail  for  Saver  Bay — Hot  Springs  in  its  vicinity — Superstition  of 
the  Natives — Sail  for  Sandal  Wood  Bay— Broils  between  two  brothers 
Receive  from  the  "  Peacock"  the  prisoner  Vendori — The  Vincennes' 
1st  Cutter  captured  by  the  Natives — Send  an  Expedition  to  punish  them 
and  recover  the  Boat — Mr.  Baxter  of  the  Brig  "  Leonidas"  dies  from 
an  explosion — Sail  for  Matawata  Bay — Description  of  the  Town — The 
King's  Wives — Our  Surveying  Signals  are  stolen  by  the  Natives — The 
King  is  compelled  to  restore  them — Two  of  our  Officers  are  massacred 
by  the  Inhabitants  of  Malolo — Destruction  of  their  Town,  and  other 
punishment  inflicted  on  them — Tribute  to  the  Dead  by  the  Chaplain  of 
the  Expedition — Meeting  of  Officers  for  the  purpose  of  subscribing 
towards  the  erection  of  a  Monument  in  the  Cemetery  at  Mount  Auburn 
— Bid  adieu  to  the  Fejee  Islands. 

CHAPTER     XIV. 

Extent  of  the  Fejee  Group— Soil  and  Productions— Description  of  the 
Inhabitants— How  they  wear  their  Hair — Power  of  the  Chiefs  over  the 
common  people — Women  treated  as  Slaves — How  they  carry  Messages 


CONTENTS. 


— Copiousness  of  the  Language — Circumcision — Polygamy — Cannibal 
propensities — Courtship — Wives  strangled  and  buried  with  their 
Husbands — The  Sick  killed  by  their  relatives — Form  of  Government — 
Religion — Their  account  of  the  Origin  of  Races — Their  knowledge  of 
Medicine — Their  Weapons — Their  Manufactures — Foreign  Trade — 
Value  of  Whales'  Teeth,  &c. 

CHAPTER    XV. 

Arrival  at  the  Sandwich  Islands — Description  of  Honolulu — Foreign 
Residents — American  Enterprise — Personal  appearance  of  the  Natives 
— The  Market — -"Two  Natives  hung  for  poisoning  a  Woman — Witness  an 
Examination  of  700  Native  Children  at  Mr.  Bingham's  Church — Their 
progress  and  natural  abilities — A  visit  to  the  famous  Pali — Remarks 
thereon — Horse-racing  a  favorite  amusement  of  the  women — My  Horse 
takes  fright — Obliged  to  go  on  board  the  Ship — Sail  for  Hawaii — Our 
Success  in  our  Scientific  Pursuits  while  at  Oahoo — Immense  height  of 
the  Mountains  of  Hawaii — ^Wrestling  Match  on  the  Forecastle  between 
two  Natives — Arrival  at  Hilo — A  Present  from  the  King's  Agent — His 
personal  appearance  and  behavior.  ^ 

CHAPTER    XVI. 

Surpassing  beauty  of  the  Country  about  Hilo — The  Missionaries— Send 
the  Scientific  Instruments  on  shore — Excursion  to  the  top  of  Mauna 
Loa — Refusal  of  Natives,  employed  to  carry  the  Instruments  and  Pro- 
visions, to  proceed — Scarcity  of  Wood  and  Water — Objects  of  the  Expe- 
dition— I  visit  the  Shore — Mr.  Alden  and  fifty  Seamen  go  to  the  assist- 
ance of  the  Mauna  Loa  party — Haul  the  Seine — The  Head-man  of  Hilo 
and  family,  and  the  King's  Agent  and  his  Lady,  dine  in  the  Ward- 
room— How  the  Ladies  dress,  &c.,  &c. 

CHAPTER    XVII. 

My  visit  to  the  Great  Volcano — The  Mauno  Loa  Party  accomplish  its 
object,  and  the  '*  Stars  and  Stripes"  wave  upwards  of  a  week  over  the 
top  of  one  of  the  highest  mountains  in  the  world — Character  of  the 
Mountain — Sufferings  of  our  people  from  the  excessive  Cold,  and 
Mountain  Sickness — Sail  for  Maui — Pass  the  Island  Raloolawe — Arrival 
at  Lahaina — Appearance  of  the  Surrounding  Country — The  King  of  the 
Group  visits  the  Ship — His  personal  appearance  and  education — My 
visit  to  the  Town — Beautiful  Landscape — The  High  School — Native 
Children  amusing  themselves  in  the  Surf— Apparent  danger  of  the 


10  CONTENTS. 


Amusement — Boats  employed  Surveying  the  Harbor — Dangerous  situa- 
tion of  Mr.  May  and  Crew — Rescued  by  Lieutenant  Budd — The  King's 
Schooner  assists  us  in  our  Surveying  Duties — Return  to  Oahoo  to  fill  up 
with  Provisions — Receive  an  Ofi&cial  Visit  from  the  Governor  of  the 
Island — His  connection  with  the  Royal  Family. 

CHAPTER    XVIII. 

Sail  for  the  Northwest  Coast  of  America — Description  of  the  Villula,  or 
*'  little  man  of  war" — Arrive  off  the  Columbia  River — Owing  to  bad 
weather  do  not  venture  to  enter — Steer  for  Puget  Sound — Narrow  es- 
cape from  Shipwreck — Loss  of  a  Russian  vessel  near  the  same  spot — 
Savage  Character  of  the  Natives — Enter  Puget  Sound— Boarded  by  two 
Canoes — Description  of  the  Indians  living  along  the  Shores — Arrival  at 
Nisqually — Survey  Hood's  Canal — Celebration  of  the  4th  of  July  on 
Shore — Serious  Accident — Receive  a  visit  from  Doctor  McLaughlin 
Chief  Factor  and  Governor  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company— Lieutenant 
Johnson  returns  from  an  excursion  in  the  interior. 

CHAPTER    XIX. 

Exploration  and  Survey  of  Chickelees  River — Difficulties  with  the  Indians 
at  Grey's  Harbor — Scarcity  of  Provisions — Obliged  to  subsist  on  dead 
fish  picked  up  on  the  beach — Arrival  of  Lieut.  De  Haven  with  provi- 
sions— He  communicates  to  us  the  loss  of  the  "  Peacock" — Arrival  at 
Astoria — Kindness  of  Mr.  Birnie — Character  of  the  Indian  Tribes  about 
Astoria — Receive  orders  from  Captain  Wilkes  to  join  him  at  Vancouver 
— Indian  Burial  Grounds — Arrival  at  Vancouver — Observations  on  the 
Columbia  River — Received  orders  to  join  the  Overland  Expedition  to 
California — Sketch  of  a  life  at  Vancouver. 

CHAPTER    XX. 

Early  History  of  Oregon,  derived  from  the  most  reliable  authorities — 
Cook — Vancouver — McKenzie — Twiss — Greenhow. 

CHAPTER    XXI. 

Leave  Vancouver  to  join  the  Overland  Party  to  California  encamped,  on 
the  Banks  of  the  Willamette  River — Rev.  Mr.  Cone,  on  his  way  to  Van- 
couver— His  account  of  our  party; — Five  Americans  building  a  Schooner 
—Their  account  of  the  Country— The  Falls— Indian  Superstition— Sal- 
mon Fishery — Observations  on  the  Scenery  and  Navigation  of  the  River 


CONTENTS.  11 


— Breakfast  with  the  celebrated  Mr.  McKoy — His  Wheat  Crop — Cana- 
dian Settlement — American  Settlement — Observations  on  the  Soil  and 
Produce  of  the  Willamette  Valley — Methodist  Mission — Divine  Service 
at  Mr.  Leslie's  residence — Break  up  the  Camp — Drawbacks — Mr.  Tur- 
ner's place,  and  his  present  to  the  party — Loss  of  some  of  our  Horses — 
A  visit  from  a  party  of  Calipuya  Indians — Mr.  Emmons  leaves  for  Fort 
Umpquoa — Unfavorable  report  regarding  the  Indians — Mr.  Emmons' 
return  to  the  Camp — Put  the  Arms  in  the  best  fighting  condition — 
Cross  the  North  Fork  of  the  Umpquoa  River — Rumors  that  the  Indians 
are  preparing  to  dispute  our  passage — Indian  Women  gathering  Roots 
— Indian  Burial  Ground — Cross  the  Umpquoa  Mountains — Character 
of  the  Country — Klamet  Indians — Pass  Tootootutnas  River — Sickness — 
Expected  Attack  from  the  Shaste  Indians — Variety  of  Game — Indian 
mode  of  killing  the  Antelope — Passage  over  the  Shaste  Range — Klamet 
Valley — Ford  the  Klamet  River — Character  of  the  Indians  of  this 
Region — Reach  the  Head  of  the  Sacramento — Archery  of  the  Indians — 
Sacramento  Valley — Klinka  Tribe  of  Indians — Prairie  Butes — Feather 
River — Captain  Sutter's  place — Proceed  to  San  Francisco — Brief  History 
of  Captain  Sutter — His  kind  treatment  of  our  party — Extent  and 
character  of  the  Sacramento  Valley— San  Francisco — Bay  at  the  time 
of  our  visit,  and  after  the  Discovery  of  Gold. 


CHAPTER     XXII, 
General  Observations  on  California. 

CHAPTER    XXIII. 
Conquest  of  California  by  the  United  States. 

CHAPTER     XXIV. 

Ordered  to  the  Brig  *'  Oregon'* — Sail  for  the  Sandwich  Islands — A  man 
killed  on  board  the  '*  Vincennes" — Leave  Honolulu  for  the  East  Indies 
— Arrival  at  Singapore — Description  of  the  City — Opium  vending  and 
its  effects  upon  the  population — Beautiful  rides  about  the  City — A 
Chinese  Temple — A  Mahommedan  Mosque — Malay  Character — The 
Parsees — Their  Language,  Wealth  and  Religion — Observations  on  Com- 
merce and  Currency — Sail  for  the  Island  of  St.  Helena. 


12  CONTENTa. 


CHAPTER     XXV 

Aspect  of  St.  Helena — Discovery  and  Settlement  of  the  Island — Fortifi- 
cations— Climate — ^Population — Observations  on  Jamestown — Visit  to 
Napoleon's  Tomb,  and  Longwood — Interesting  particulars  relating  to 
the  Captivity  of  the  fallen  Emperor — His  Death  and  Funeral — Arrival 
of  the  Frigate  **  Belle  Poule"  to  take  away  his  mortal  remains — Exhu- 
mation of  the  Body — ^Its  embarkation — Departure  of  the  Frigate  for 
France — Sail  from  St.  Heleaa — Arrival  at  Rio  Janeiro — Departure  for, 
and  arrival  at  New  York. 


CHAPTER  I. 

FROM  NORFOLK  TO  MADEIRA, 

At  3  o'clock  P.  M.,  August  18tli,  (1838,)  the  Vincennes 
made  the  signal  to  get  under-weigh,  and  in  obedience  to  the 
same  we  weighed  anchor  in  company  with  the  rest  of  the 
squadron,  namely,  "  Vincennes,''  "  Peacock,"  "  Relief,"  and 
the  two  schooners  "Sea  Gull"  and  "Flying  Fish."  At 
5  P.  M.,  we  came-to  oflF  Fort  Monroe,  on  account  of  its  fall- 
ing calm,  and  of  the  tide  making  against  us  ;  but  at  9.20  the 
breeze  sprung  up,  and  we  again  hove-up  the  anchor  and  stood 
out  to  sea.  At  4.15  P.  M.,  on  the  19th,  we  discharged  the 
pilot,  and  took  our  departure.  The  day  was  beautiful,  the 
sea  smooth,  the  breeze  favoring,  and  the  vessels  sailed  finely. 
Indeed,  we  could  not  possibly  have  commenced  our  cruise 
under  more  auspicious  circumstances. 

The  day  following  we  received  orders,  in  case  of  separation, 
to  rendezvous  at  Funchal,  the  principal  port  of  Madeira. 

On  the  24th,  the  "Relief"  was  ordered  to  proceed  to  Rio 
Janeiro,  in  consequence  of  not  being  able  to  keep  up  with  the 
rest  of  the  squadron. 

At  dawn  on  the  13th  of  September,  we  descried  the  Island 
of  St.  Michael,  the  first  land  we  had  seen  since  bidding  adieu 
to  our  own  shores.  This  island  is  of  a  volcanic  origin ;  its 
conical-shaped  mountains,  and  detached  basaltic  rocks  which 


14  PATSSAGE    TO    MADEIRA. 

line  its  shores,  prove  this  most  conclusively.  The  northern 
side,  along  which  we  sailed  for  some  time,  looked  singularly 
beautiful  and  romantic.  It  is  one  of  the  Azores,'*  or  Western 
Islands,  and  belongs  to  the  Crown  of  Portugal. 

The  next  object  which  engrossed  our  attention  was  the  im- 
mense fields  of  sea -weed,  so  often  met  with  to  the  west  of  the 
group  of  islands  just  mentioned.  Two  great  banks  of  this 
singular  stringy-looking  weed  are  said  to  occur  in  the  Atlantic 
ocean.  One  of  them  is  to  the  west  of  the  meridian  of  Fayal, 
one  of  the  Azores ;  but  the  location  of  the  other  has  not  been 
correctly  ascertained.  According  to  Burnet,  it  vegetates  within 
forty  degrees  of  latitude  on  each  side  of  the  equator.  It 
was  known  to  the  Phoenicians  as  the  Weedy-Sea,  and  the 
Spaniards  and  Portuguese  call  it  Mar  de  Zaragossa.  It  is 
related  of  Columbus,  that  the  sailors  who  attended  him  on 
his  first  voyage  of  discovery  to  America,  on  passing  through 
these  fields  of  sea-weed,  urged  him  to  proceed  no  further  on 
the  voyage,  but  to  return  home  again,  as  they  superstitiously 
believed  that  this  hindrance  was  designed  by  God  to  pat  a 
stop  to  his  wild  schemes.  This  floating  fucus  is  supposed  to 
be  detached  by  storms  from  the  submarine  rocks  on  which  it 
is  said  to  grow  ;  but  that  which  we  fished  up  presented  all  the 
appearance  of  belonging  to  a  healthy  growing  plant,  nor  could 
I  detect  any  roots  which  might  have  induced  me  to  suppose 
that  it  had  been  once  attached  to  the  rocky  bottom  of  the 
ocean. 

On  the  morning  of  the  18th  of  September,  we  anchored  off 

*  The  Azores,  or  Western  Islands,  a  group  of  nine  islands  in  the  Atlantic,  between 
26'>  and  30*'  west  longitude,  and  37°  and  40"  north  latitude,  were  discovered  in  1439, 
by  Vanderberg,  a  merchant  of  Bruges,  and  received  their  name  from  the  number  of 
hawks  found  among  them.  The  climate  is  favorable  to  human  health,  and  the  soil  is 
in  general  fertile,  abounding  in  corn,  grapes,  oranges,  lemons,  and  other  fruits,  and 
feeding  many  oittle,  hogs,  and  sheep. 


MADEIRA.  15 


the  city  of  Funclial,  in  twenty-five  fathoms  water.  The 
"  Vincennes"  and  "  Sea  Gull"  came  in  about  sunset,  and  the 
"  Flying  Fish"  an  hour  or  two  later.  The  "  Peacock  "  did 
not  arrive  until  about  10  A.  M   next  day. 

Shortly  after  coming  to  anchor,  we  were  boarded  by  the 
health-officer,  who,  being  assured  that  we  had  no  sickness  on 
board,  granted  us  permission  to  communicate  with  the  shore. 

We  had  heard  much  about  the  beauties  of  Maderia,  and 
now  that  we  had  it  before  our  eyes,  we  were  not  disappointed ; 
my  own  expectations  were  indeed  more  than  realized.  Val- 
leys and  hills,  the  former  adorned  with  villas,  groves,  cottages, 
churches,  and  convents,  the  latter  covered  to  their  summits 
with  verdure,  presented  themselves  to  our  view  in  every  direc- 
tion. The  climate  is  said  ^to  be  among  the  finest  in  the 
world.  Properly  speaking,  there  is  no  winter,  and  the  greatest 
heat  in  the  summer  is  never  so  great  as  with  us.  The  usual 
height  of  the  mercury  is  67°,  and  in  the  greatest  extremes 
seldom  sinks  or  rises  6°  above  the  medium,  and  hence  the 
excellent  health  so  generally  enjoyed  by  its  inhabitants. 
Another  remarkable  fact  about  Maderia  is,  that  it  is  free  from 
the  annoyances  and  inconveniences  that  so  commonly  infest 
warm  climates.  There  are  no  snakes  or  reptiles  of  any  sort. 
Flowers  grow  wild  along  the  sides  of  the  roads  and  in  the 
fields.  Water  is  abundant,  and  of  an  excellent  quality ;  even 
the  streams  at  the  bottom  of  the  ravines,  fed  by  the  mountain 
dews,  are  never  dry  in  the  hottest  season,  and  the  height 
from  which  they  descend  enables  the  inhabitants  to  tura  their 
course  in  any  direction  they  please,  which  accounts  for  the 
cultivated  parts  of  the  island  being  so  well  irrigated. 

The  chief  production  of  Madeira  is  the  grape,*  and  that 

*  "The  vine  was  introduced  in  1425,  from  the  Island  of  Candia  ;  but  it  was  not  ac- 
tively  cultivated  till  the  early  pai';of  the  sixteenth  century.     It  is  propagated  from 


16  MADEIRA. 


which  grows  near  the  sea-shore  is  said  to  make  the  best  wine. 
The  quantity  exported  last  year  amounted  to  8,450  pipes,  of 
which  about  4,000  pipes,  valued  at  793,000  dollars,  went  to 
the  United  States.  There  is  a  great  difference  in  the  spots 
where  the  vine  grows,  and  some  estates  produce  much  better 
quahty  of  wine  than  others,  though  the  kind  of  grape  culti- 
vated is  the  samCe  After  the  juice  is  expressed  it  is  put 
into  casks,  undergoes  the  process  of  fermentation,  is  clarified 
with  isinglass,  or  gypsum,  and  about  three  gallons  of  brandy 
to  a  pipe  of  wine  is  added.  The  common  Madeira  is  obtained 
from  a  mixture  of  Verdelho,  Bual,  and  Negro  Molle  grapes ; 
the  Malmsey  and  Sercial,  from  grapes  of  the  same  name. 

The  principal  manufactures  of  Madeira  are  coarse  linen, 
baskets,  hats  and  bonnets,  boots  and  shoes.  The  latter 
article  is  exported  in  considerable  quantity  to  the  East  and 
West  Indies ;  they  are  generally  well  made,  but  they  do  not 
stand  wet  weather  as  well  as  the  American  shoes,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  leather  not  being  properly  tanned. 

The  revenue  of  the  island  is  stated  to  be  about  210,000 
dollars  per  annum.  That  portion  which  is  derived  from  the 
customs  is  about  one  half,  or  about  110,000  dollars.  The 
remainder  is  from  taxes  and  tithes.     The  population  is  esti- 

cuttings,  planted  at  a  depth  of  from  three  to  six  feet,  and  there  is  generally  no  pro- 
duce for  the  first  three  years.  During  the  second  spring  they  are  trained  along  a 
net- work  of  canes,  (which  is  extensively  grown,  in  low,  moist  situations,  for  that  pur- 
pose,) and  supported  by  stakes,  about  three  or  four  feet  from  the  ground.  The  in- 
ferior  descriptions  of  wine,  after  being  clarified,  are  subjected,  in  stoves,  to  a  tem- 
perature of  140°  to  160°  Fahr.  for  six  months,  by  which  process  of  forcing  they  as- 
sume an  apparent  age,  but,  at  the  same  time,  a  dry  and  smoky  flavor,  which  can  never 
be  entirely  eradicated.  This  class  of  wines  is  shipped  annually,  in  large  quantities, 
to  Hamburgh,  where  it  undergoes  a  process  which  changes  its  character  to  that 
of  Hock,  under  which  name  a  large  portion  of  it  finds  its  way  into  the  English  and 
American  markets.  The  wines  of  Maderia.  with  the  exception  of  Tinta,  should  be 
kept  in  cellars  of  a  moderate  and  equable  temperature,  and  should  be  placed,  for  a 
short  peMod,  at  a  moderate  distance  from  the  fire  before  decanted,  and  the  decanter 
heated  in  like  manner.'  By  One  who  resided  Fifteen  Years  on  the  Island. 


MADEIRA.  17 


mated  at  115,000.  The  lower  classes  are  industrious,  sober, 
and  honest.  They  are  supposed  to  be  a  mixture  of  Moors, 
Negroes,  and  Portuguese.  Dark  hair,  eyes,  and  complexion 
are  most  common.  The  character  of  the  features  is  usually 
a  broad  face,  high  cheek-bones,  full  lips,  and  good  teeth. 
The  men  are  very  muscular,  about  the  middle  height,  very 
erect,  strongly  built,  and  capable  of  enduring  great  fatigue. 
The  women  are  not  good  looking,  which  is  no  doubt  owing,  in 
part,  to  the  hard  labor  required  of  them. 

The  men  wear  loose  trowsers,  descending  to  the  knee,  made 
of  coarse  linen  cloth  manufactured  on  the  island,  a  shirt,  and 
a  jacket  of  gaudy  color.  They  sometimes  wear  boots  or  shoes 
made  of  white  leather,  but  generally  they  go  without  either. 

The  women  are  dressed  in  bodices,  with  short  petticoats  of 
a  variety  of  colors.  Both  sexes  wear  a  blue  cloth  cap  of  very 
small  dimensions,  tied  under  the  chin. 

The  houses  of  the  peasantry  are  little  better  than  huts ; 
they  are  constructed  of  stone,  one  story  high,  with  a  roof 
rising  on  all  sides  to  a  central  pole — are  thatched  with  straw, 
and  beneath  the  same  roof  are  included  the  parlor,  kitchen, 
and  sleeping-room,  without  any  intervening  partitions.  The 
only  aperture  for  light  or  smoke  is  the  door.  Perhaps  there  is 
no  need  for  chimneys,  as  fire  is  seldom  required,  and  the  cook- 
ing is  usually  done  out  in  the  open  air. 

Funchal  is  the  capital  of  the  island.  It  is  built  along  the 
margin  of  a  small  bay,  the  houses  in  some  parts  rising  one 
above  the  other  on  steep  hills,  and  contains  above  20,000 
inhabitants,  of  which  500  are  foreign  residents.  It  is  inter- 
sected by  three  rivers,  which  are  kept  in  their  course  by  strong 
thick  walls,  from  ten  to  thirty  feet  in  height.  Most  of  these 
streams  have  pleasant  walks  along  their  raised  banks,  shaded 
with   large  overhanging   plane-trees,  whose  branches  almost 


18  MADEIRA. 


meet  over  the  centre  of  the  channel.  The  cathedral  has  been 
recently  repaired,  and  makes  a  fine  display ;  its  steeple  is  the 
most  conspicuous  of  any  in  the  town. 

The  other  public  buildings  are  hardly  deserving  of  notice. 
The  Governor's  palace  is  situated  near  the  water,  and  has  a 
commanding  view  of  the  harbor,  but  its  architecture  is  clumsy 
and  tasteless.  A  few  yards  from  the  cathedral  is  the  Praca 
Constituicas,  a  very  pleasant  promenade,  shaded  by  three  or 
four  rows  of  trees,  and  provided  with  benches  for  the  repose 
of  the  weary.  The  military  band  usually  plays  here  during 
the  afternoon  of  Sundays,  and  "  festas."  The  native  inhabi- 
tants then  appear  in  all  their  finery,  listening  to  the  airs 
discoursed  by  the  band.  Beyond  the  Plaza  is  the  market- 
place, which  is  very  clean,  and  regularly  laid  out  in  streets 
and  stalls. 

Many  of  the  convents  are  large  and  beautifully  located,  but 
in  consequence  of  their  being  neglected  by  the  present  govern- 
ment, they  have  in  a  great  measure  become  deserted,  and  their 
walls  are  crumbling  down  piecemeal.  The  monks  are  out  of 
favor  with  the  Queen's  government ;  the  zeal  with  which  they 
supported  the  claims  of  Don  Miguel  to  the  throne  of  Portugal 
has  not  been  forgotten,  and  consequently  they  are  looked  upon 
with  a  suspicious  eye,  both  by  the  government  and  the  people. 
During  the  short  reign  of  the  Constitutional  Government  in 
Madeira,  the  nuns  were  permitted  to  leave  their  convents,  and 
a  few  availed  themselves  for  a  time  of  the  privilege,  but 
returned  again  to  their  cloisters,  after  a  short  enjoyment  of 
the  world's  gayety.  The  celebrated  Maria  Clementina,  to 
whose  history  Coleridge  has  imparted  such  interest,  still  lives 
in  the  convent  of  St.  Clara,  among  some  forty  of  her  sister- 
hood. She  is  now  somewhat  advanced  in  life,  and  few,  if 
any,  traces  remain  of  that  beauty  which  the  poet  so  warmly 


MADEIRA.  19 


described.  These  nuns  support  themselves  chiefly  by  the 
manufacture  and  sale  of  artificial  flowers  and  fruits,  with  a 
few  other  ornamental  productions.  The  former  are  made  of 
dyed  feathers  and  the  fruit  of  wax,  and  are  prized  by  many 
visitors  as  afibrding  a  pleasing  remembrance  of  their  sojourn 
in  the  island. 

The  dwellings  are  from  one  to  two  stories  high,  and  the 
apartments  are  large  and  well  lighted,  but  owing  to  the 
material  of  which  they  are  constructed — stone,  and  the  iron- 
grated  windows  of  the  ground-floor — they  have  a  gloomy, 
cheerless  aspect.  Nearly  every  house  has  a  kind  of  tiuTct  on 
the  top,  from  which  can  be  had  a  fine  view  of  the  harbor. 
The  principal  object  of  these  is,  for  the  inhabitants  to  look 
out  for  vessels ;  the  first  thing  to  be  done  in  the  morning  being 
to  mount  the  turret  to  see  if  any  strange  vessel  had  arrived  in 
the  course  of  the  night. 

The  streets  are  narrow,  and  in  some  parts  very  steep,  but 
they  are  kept  clean.  In  the  principal  streets  are  some  very 
good  stores,  kept  by  Englishmen,  who  are  by  far  the  most 
numerous  of  the  foreigners  that  reside  on  the  island. 

The  market  is  very  good.  Beef  of  good  quality  can  be  had 
for  eight  cents  per  lb. ;  fowls  for  thirty-seven  cents ;  eggs  for 
eight  cents  per  dozen ;  vegetables  and  fruits  of  every  descrip- 
tion also  are  abundant.  Clothing  is  as  cheap  as  with  us^  and 
boots  and  shoes  considerably  cheaper ;  and  I  may  here  add, 
that  this  is  the  case  with  everything  which  is  made  on  the 
island,  and  it  is  to  be  attributed  to  the  cheapness  of  labor,  the 
highest  wages  commanded  by  mechanics  not  exceeding  twelve 
dollars  per  month. 

In  passing  through  the  streets  of  Funchal,  you  meet  with 
many  of  the  country  people,  who  have  come  either  to  trade  or 
to  obtain  employment.     They  are  a  hardy,  athletic  race,  and 


20  MADEIRA. 


to  all  appearance  remarkably  polite  and  kind-hearted.  When- 
ever we  met  them,  they  invariably  saluted  us.  They  are 
extensively  employed  about  the  town  as  carriers,  and  a  stranger 
is  at  times  apt  to  be  struck  with  the  novel  character  of  their 
load;  when  at  a  distance,  he  sees  them  bearing  on  their 
shoulders  what  he  supposes  to  be  a  live  sheep,  but  on  nearer 
approach  he  discovers  that  they  are  only  the  skins  of  that 
animal  filled  with  wine.  These  skins  are  preserved  as  entire 
as  possible,  even  the  legs  being  retained;  they  are  kept 
steady  by  a  band  which  passes  over  the  forehead  and  supports 
a  considerable  part  of  the  weight.  Twenty  gallons  is  con- 
sidered an  ordinary  load,  and  they  will  carry  it  to  any  part  of 
the  city  for  a  pistareen. 

There  are  few  public  amusements  to  be  found  in  Funchal, 
and  strangers  very  soon  complain  of  monotony.  There  is  no 
theatre,  no  cafe,  ho  resort,  in  fact,  but  the  billiard-table.  The 
members  of  the  Portuguese  Club  have  a  ball,  once  a  month 
during  the  season,  and  very  agreeable  and  pleasing  re-unions 
they  are.  According  to  Portuguese  etiquette,  previous  to  the 
commencement  of  dancing,  the  ladies  sit  formally  at  one  end 
of  the  room,  apart  from  the  gentlemen,  and  it  is  customary  at 
two  or  three  o'clock  in  the  morning,  to  hand  around  cups  con- 
taining hot  chicken  broth.  The  ball  seldom  breaks  up  before 
daylight. 

Visiting  among  the  ladies  of  Funchal,  is  performed  in  Pa- 
lanquins, and  a  kind  of  vehicle  lately  introduced,  resembling 
one  of  our  New  England  sleighs.  The  latter  is  generally 
drawn  by  oxen,  and  seems  to  answer  better  than  a  wheel 
vehicle,  on  account  of  the  steepness  and  narrowness  of  the 
streets. 

The  rides  about  Funchal  are  delightful ;  the  roads  are  good, 
and  lined  on  either  hand  with  vineyards,  mingled  with  groves 


MADEIRA.  21 


of  the  orange  and  lemon  tree.  The  most  agreeable  way  of 
taking  these  rides  is  on  horseback,  horses  being  plentiful  and 
generally  well  broken.  Their  owners  invariably  accompany 
them,  and  it  is  amusing  to  see  how  they  manage  to  keep  up 
when  the  animal  is  made  by  the  rider  to  gallop  or  run ;  they 
seize  the  tail  with  both  hands — thus  making  the  horse  drag 
them  after  him ;  and  what  seems  singular  is,  the  animal  never 
gets  frightened,  and  if  not  urged  on  by  the  rider,  will  soon 
come  to  a  halt. 

Every  one  who  visits  Madeira  should  certainly  ride  out  to 
the  Cural.*  The  road  leading  to  it  is  one  of  the  most  inte- 
resting on  the  Island.  It  ascends  gradually,  and  every  now 
and  then  you  are  presented  with  a  magnificent  view  of  Fun- 
chal,  and  its  bay.  After  riding  some  hours  you  reach  a  mount 
of  considerable  altitude ;  on  ascending  this  you  find  yourself 
on  the  edge  of  the  Cural,  where  the  whole  scene  suddenly  bursts 
upon  your  view,  and  its  beauty  and  grandeur  fill  you  with 
wonder  and  astonishment. 

**  Earth  has  nothing  to  show  more  grand ; 
Dull  would  be  the  soul  who  could  pass  by 
A  sight  so  touching  in  its  majesty." 

In  the  descent,  the  road  winds  along  the  sides  of  the  pre- 
cipice, and  at  every  turn  new  and  striking  views  are  brought 
out,  almost  surpassing  in  grandeur  the  first.  When  about 
five  hundred  feet  from  the  bottom,  the  path  becomes  less 
precipitous,  and  the  country  on  either  side  is  in  a  high  state  of 
cultivation  and  sprinkled  with  cottages,  chapels,  and  con- 
vents. 

Few  places  of  sepulture  can  boast  a  more  delightful 
prospect  than  the  burial-ground  of    Funchal.     Whilst  the 

»  The  Cural  is  supposed  to  have  been  a  Crater. 


ANNA    D  ARFET. 


dark  cypress  groves  give  a  saddening  effect  to  the  placfe  itself, 
in  Harmony  with  its  object,  the  surrounding  scenery  pre- 
sents some  of  the  finest  views  in  the  neighborhood  of  the 
town.  The  most  prominent  object  in  the  distance  is  the 
Peak  Fort,  the  principal  fortress  in  Madeira.  Its  command- 
ing position  renders  it  a  picturesque  object  from  many  points 
of  view. 

The  following  story  relating  to  the  discovery  of  Madeira, 
and  narrated  by  a  historian  may  be  interesting  to  the 
reader. 

"  Anna  D'Arfet,  the  heroine  of  the  tale,  was  a  lady  of  high 
family  and  distinguished  beauty.  She  was  beloved  by  Robert 
Machim,  an  English  gentleman  of  great  merit,  but  her  infe- 
rior in  rank  and  wealth ;  the  attachment,  though  mutual,  was 
not  countenanced  by  the  proud  family  of  D' Arfet,  and  finding 
her  insensible  to  their  admonitions,  a  warrant  was  procured 
from  the  King,  Edward  III.,  by  which  Machim  was  arrested 
and  cast  into  prison,  she  being  in  the  meantime  compelled  to 
ally  herself  with  one  more  her  equal  in  station.  Machim  on 
his  release,  determined  to  spare  no  means  to  become  possessed 
of  the  object  of  his  affections,  and  by  the  assistance  of  a 
friend,  who  introduced  himself  to  his  mistress  in  the  character 
of  a  groom,  succeeded  in  effecting  her  escape  from  a  castle 
near  Bristol,  where  her  husband  resided.  Guided  by  their 
trusty  friend,  they  embarked  in  a  vessel  bound  for  France  ; 
but  in  crossing  the  channel  they  were  driven  out  of  their 
course  by  a  fearful  storm.  For  thirteen  days  they  were 
tossed  about  in  the  open  ocean,  where,  being  without  a  pilot, 
they  knew  not  in  what  direction  to  steer.  At  length  a  faint 
haze  in  the  horizon  indicated  their  approach  to  land,  and  soon, 
to  their  infinite  joy,  they  saw  before  them  a  beautiful  and 
richly  w^ooded  island.     Machim  and  his  mistress,  accompanied 


ANNA    d'aRFET.  23 


by  some  friends,  landed  under  the  shade  of  a  venerable  cedar, 
where  they  found  a  temporary  shelter,  there  trusting  to  the 
genial  climate  and  enchanting  scenery.  Machim  hoped  to  suc- 
ceed in  administering  consolation  to  the  conscience-stricken 
Anna,  but  within  a  day  or  two  of  their  arrival  another  storm 
arose,  more  terrible  than  the  last,  which  drove  their  -unfortu- 
nate vessel  out  to  sea.  Abandoned  to  despair,  the  beautiful 
Anna  D'Arfet  could  not  sustain  this  blow ;  she  died  in  the 
arms  of  her  lover  three  days  after  the  disappearance  of  the 
vessel,  and  was  buried  by  Machim  under  the  tree  which  had 
afforded  them  shelter.  The  spirit  of  Machim  now  gave  way. 
He  survived  his  mistress  but  a  short  time,  and  was  buried  at 
her  side  by  his  companions.  With  his  dying  breath  he  en- 
treated them  to  place  an  inscription  upon  their  graves  record- 
ing the  fact,  and  requesting  that,  should  the  spot  be  ever  vis- 
ited by  Christians,  they  would  there  erect  a  church.  The 
survivors  having  punctually  followed  the  last  directions  of 
their  friend,  embarked  again  in  the  boat  which  had  brought 
them  from  their  vessel,  with  the  intention  of  returning  to  Eng- 
land. Borne  to  the  coast  of  Morocco,  they  were  captured  by 
the  Moors  and  cast  into  prison.  They  narrated  their  story 
to  some  fellow  captives,  amongst  whom  was  the  pilot  Mo- 
rales, who,  returning  from  captivity,  related  the  story  to 
Zargo,  and  an  expedition  was  soon  after  sent  out  by  the 
Portuguese  government  to  take  formal  possession  of  the 
island. 

"  The  small  church  now  standing  near  by  the  cedar  tree 
is  said  to  have  been  the  one  erected  in  compliance  with  this 
request.  Bowles  in  his  '  Spirit  of  Discovery, '^ives  the  fol- 
lowing poetical  version  of  the  inscription,  supposed  to  have 
been  written  by  Machim  on  the  grave  of  Anna  D'Arfet : — 


24 


ANNA    D'ARFET. 


<  O'er  my  poor  Anna's  lowly  grave, 
No  dirge  shall  sound,  no  knell  shall  ring. 

But  angels,  as  the  high  pines  wave. 
Their  half-said  Miserere  sing. 

*  No  flowers  of  transient  bloom  at  eve 
The  maidens  of  the  turf  shall  strew. 

Nor  sigh,  as  the  sad  spot  they  leave. 
Sweets  to  the  sweet,  a  long  adieu.' " 


FROM    MADEIRA    TO    VALPARAISO,    CHILI.  26 


CHAPTER  IL 

FROM    MADEIRA    TO    VALPARAISO,  CHILI. 

On  the  25th  we  took  our  departure,  and  stood  to  the  south- 
ward. 

On  the  6th  at  sunset,  being  near  St.  Jago,  we  hove-to,  and 
continued  so  until  next  morning.  The  early  part  of  the  night 
was  quite  cloudy,  a  circumstance  which  greatly  contributed  to 
render  the  sea  in  the  vicinity  of  the  island  appear  much  more 
phosphorescent  than  usual.  Its  brilliancy  was  so  great  that 
we  could  almost  see  to  read  by  it,  and  we  all  remained  on  deck 
for  hours  to  enjoy  the  scene.  By  straining  some  of  the  water 
through  a  piece  of  muslin,  it  was  found  to  contain  myriads  of 
animalculae,  which  in  the  dark  shone  as  brilliantly  as  the 
jfire-fly. 

At  early  daylight  we  filled  away,  and  stood  in  for  Porto 
Praya,  where  we  arrived  at  7  A.  M.  This  harbor  may  be 
described  as  a  semicircular  bay,  of  several  miles  in  circumfe- 
rence, with  bold  steep  shores.  The  entrance  is  from  the  south- 
west, and  is  free  from  all  danger.  The  usual  landing  is  around 
the  bluiF,  upon  which  the  fort  and  town  are  built.  Sometimes 
a  heavy  swell  sets  in  the  bay,  which  renders  landing  very 
difficult. 

St.  Jago  is  one  of  the  largest  of  the  Cape  de  Verde  Islands. 
It  extends  from  the  15th  to  the  16th  degree  ^  north  lati- 
tude, and  from  the  24th  to  the  25th  degree  of  west  longi- 
tude. The  population  is  estimated  at  25,000.  There  are 
many  fine  pastures  to  be  seen  in  the  interior  of  the  island, 


26  ST.    JAGO CAPE    DE    VERDE    ISLANDS. 

and  here  and  there  a  valley  of  great  fertility  and  beauty,  but 
in  general  the  island  is  barren  and  mountainous.  The  coast 
is  high,  especially  at  the  southeast  extremity.  The  hills, 
rocks,  soil,  and  everything  about  the  surface,  bear  unmis- 
takable marks  of  volcanic  origin. 

The  island  is  subject  at  intervals  to  droughts,  and  during 
their  continuance  the  inhabitants  suffer  greatly  from  want  of 
food  and  water.  The  exports  are  orchilla,*  castor  oil, 
beans,  salt,  hides,  and  goat-skins ;  the  former  article  is  a 
government  monopoly,  and  forty  thousand  dollars  are  paid  by 
the  company  for  the  yearly  crop.  The  goat-skins  are  sen. 
to  the  United  States  and  sold  at  a  very  profitable  rate. 

Porto  Praya  is  the  capital  of  the  island ;  it  is  built  on  a 
piece  of  "  table  land,"  and  looks  much  more  inviting  when 
viewed  from  the  anchorage  than  when  more  closely  examined. 
The  houses  are  constructed  of  a  rough  stone,  without  any  re- 
gard to  symmetry,  and  very  few  are  over  one  story  in  height. 
The  streets  are  wide,  but  are  not  paved,  nor  kept  clean. 

A  church,  a  barracks,  and  a  jail,  constitute  all  the  princi- 
pal public  buildings.  The  interior  of  the  dwellings  is  in 
perfect  keeping  with  their  external  appearance ;  a  few  chairs, 
a  table,  and  a  bedstead  or  two,  are  all  the  furniture  which  any 
of  them  can  boast  of. 

The  stores  are  very  insignificant,  for  not  only  are  the  assort- 
ments small,  but  they  are  composed  of  the  most  common  ar- 
ticles. The  population  is  estimated  at  3,000,  of  which  num- 
ber more  than  two-thirds  are  negroes.  The  women  are  the 
ugliest  we  have  ever  seen.  They  are  fond  of  gay  colors,  and 
their  most  fashionable  head-dress  consists  of  a  figured-cotton 
handkerchief,  tied  round  the  head  like  a  Turkish  turban. 

♦  A  species  of  kelp,  or  Sea-weed,  which,  when  burned,  produces  alkaline  ashes,  used 
in  the  manufacture  of  glass  and  soap. 


ST.    JAGO — CAPE    DE    VERDE    ISLANDS.  27 

The  language  spoken  is  a  mixture  of  the  Portuguese  and 
the  negro  dialects.  Many  of  the  blacks  are  slaves,  brought 
from  the  neighboring  coast  of  Africa,  and  continue  to  speak 
in  their  mother  tongue.  They  dress  in  a  loose  shirt,  and  sel- 
dom use  a  covering  of  any  sort  on  their  heads.  Their  chil- 
dren go  entirely  naked. 

We  have  a  Consul  residing  in  the  town.  The  climate  is 
not  considered  healthy  for  strangers  ;  it  is  subject  to  a  fever, 
similar  to  that  which  prevails  on  the  coast  of  Africa. 

St.  Jago,  like  the  other  Cape  de  Verde  Islands,  furnishes  the 
Portuguese  government  with  a  place  of  honorable  exile  for 
distinguished  subjects,  whose  political  opinions  maybe  adverse 
to  the  existing  institutions.  They  are  advanced  a  step  or  two 
in  rank  to  repay  them,  and  a  poor  compensation  it  is  for  six 
years  residence  in  such  a  miserable  place,  for  they  are  not 
allowed  to  return  sooner. 

During  the  short  time  we  remained  at  the  Island,  our  natu- 
ralists were  actively  employed,  and  many  specimens  were 
added  to  our  collections  in  botany,  ornithology,  and  shells. 

On  the  Tth  of  October,  we  again  spread  our  sails  to  the 
breeze,  and  stood  to  sea.  During  the  9th  we  experienced 
variable  airs,  with  calms  at  intervals.  At  10  A.  M.  on  the 
same  day,  we  found  ourselves  in  the  midst  of  a  very  strong 
tide-ripple.  There  can  be  no  doubt  that  this  agitation  of  the 
water  was  caused  by  a  current,  for  the  sea  was  perfectly 
smooth  only  a  few  minutes  before.  In  the  afternoon  we  were 
in  the  position  given  to  Pattey's  Overfalls,  represented  as 
being  so  alarming  to  navigators,  but  we  could  see  nothing  of 
them. 

November  4th.  The  "  Vincennes"  saw  ahead  what  she  sup- 
posed to  be  breakers,  but  upon  examining  the  place  it  proved 
to  be  an  ocular  deception,  produced  by  the  sun's  rays  throwing 


28  PASSAGE    TO    RIO    JANEIRO,    BRAZIL. 

light  upon  the  verge  of  the  horizon,  while  it  and  the  interme- 
diate space  between  it  and  the  ship,  was  rendered  dark  by 
the  shadow  of  the  clouds.  Similar  appearances  caused  by 
the  moon,  were  seen  during  the  night. 

On  the  5th,  we  crossed  the  equator,  in  longitude  17°  west. 
The  wind  now  blew  from  the  southward  and  eastward.  In  the 
course  of  the  afternoon  we  saw  many  shoals  of  flying-fish,  and 
as  they  sprung  unusually  high  into  the  air,  we  concluded  that 
they  were  chased  by  other  fish.  The  flying-fish  has  many 
enemies ;  the  boneta,  albacore,  dolphin,  &c.,  &c.,  are  waging 
incessant  war  with  them  in  the  sea,  and  no  sooner  do  they  take 
to  flight,  than  the  prowling  frigate-bird,  or  wide-a-wake,  is 
ready  to  dash  down  among  them,  and  drive  them  once  more  to 
seek  shelter  in  their  own  native  element.  Very  frequently, 
when  they  are  trying  to  escape  from  their  enemies,  they  strike 
against  the  ship's  side,  and  are  instantly  killed.  The  largest 
of  them  are  not  over  twelve  inches  in  length,  but  their  fins  are 
much  larger  in  proportion  than  those  of  other  fish.  Sailors 
sometimes  eat  them,  but  they  are  not  considered  a  good 
article  of  diet. 

An  amusing  circumstance  occurred  during  the  night  of  the 
9th  of  November.  In  our  course  we  passed  very  near  a  large 
sail,  which,  from  the  night  being  unusually  dark,  the  officer 
of  the  deck  mistook  for  the  "  Vincennes,''  although  sailing  on 
a  different  course.  He  immediately  followed  the  vessel,  and 
continued  after  her  until  morning,  when,  to  his  surprise,  he 
discovered  that  it  was  a  large  Dutch  ship.  We  considered  it 
a  capital  joke,  and  during  the  rest  of  the  passage  had  many 
a  hearty  laugh  over  it.  When  the  mistake  was  discovered  we 
resumed  our  former  course,  and  soon  after  overtook  the 
squadron  again. 

On  the  10th,  11th,  13th,  and  14th,  we  kept  watch  for  the 


PASSAGE    TO    RIO    JANEIRO,    BRAZIL.  29 

periodical  showers  of  stars.  Forty  were  seen  in  the  mid- 
watch  of  the  ISth,  proceeding  from  the  Pleiades,  and  shooting 
in  a  northerly  direction.  The  weather  was  now  delightful,  and 
the  southeast  trades  were  wafting  us  along  at  the  rate  of  nine 
or  ten  knots  per  hour.  The  nights  recalled  to  our  minds  the 
beautiful  description  of  the  illustrious  Humboldt :  "  One  expe- 
riences an  indescribable  sensation  when,  as  we  approach  the 
equator,  and  especially  when  passing  from  one  hemisphere  to 
the  other,  we  see  the  stars,  with  which  we  have  been  familiar 
from  infancy,  gradually  approach  the  horizon,  and  finally 
disappear.  Nothing  impresses  more  vividly  on  the  mind  of 
the  traveler  the  vast  distance  which  separates  him  from  his 
native  country,  than  the  sight  of  a  new  firmament.  The 
grouping  of  the  large  stars,  the  scattered  nebulae  rivaling  in 
lustre  the  milky-way,  together  with  some  spaces  remarkable 
for  their  extreme  darkness,  give  the  southern  heavens  a 
peculiar  aspect.  The  sight  even  strikes  the  imagination  of 
those  who,  ignorant  of  astronomy,  find  pleasure  in  contem- 
plating the  celestial  vault,  as  one  admires  a  fine  landscape  or 
a  majestic  site.  Without  being  a  botanist,  the  traveler  knows 
the  torrid  zone  by  the  mere  sight  of  its  vegetation,  and 
without  the  possession  of  astronomical  knowledge  perceives 
that  he  is  not  in  Europe,  when  he  sees  rising  in  the  horizon 
the  great  constellation  of  the  ship,  or  the  phosphorescent 
clouds  of  Magellan.  In  the  equinoctial  regions,  the  earth, 
the  sky,  and  all  their  garniture,  assume  an  exotic  character." 
About  meridian  on  the  24th,  we  made  the  harbor  of  Rio 
Janeiro  directly  ahead.  At  4.30  P.  M.,  showed  our  number 
together  with  the  rest  of  the  squadron,  which  was  answered 
by  the  United  States  frigate  "  Independence,"  the  flag-ship 
of  the  Brazil  station.  At  5  we  passed  Fort  St.  Cruz,  situated 
at  the  entrance  of  the  harbor,  and  in  the  course  of  half  an 


80 


RIO    JANEIRO,    BRAZIL. 


hour  more  arrived  off  "  Rat  Island,"  where  we  let-go  the 
anchor. 

We  were  much  disappointed  not  to  find  the  "  Relief"  here. 
The  usual  passage  for  vessels  bound  to  Rio  from  our  ports  is 
fifty  days,  but  she  had  already  been  out  ninety  days  ;  we 
therefore  began  to  feel  anxious  about  her. 

There  were  a  great  many  foreign  vessels  in  the  harbor,  and 
not  less  than  fifty  or  sixty  were  American,  belonging  to  Balti- 
more and  New  York.  The  trade  with  the  United  States  has 
greatly  increased.  Within  the  last  two  or  three  years  from 
two  to  three  hundred  American  vessels  take  and  bring  cargoes 
to  and  from  the  United  States.  They  bring  out  flour  and 
cotton  goods,  and  return  loaded  with  sugar,  coffee.  India- 
rubber,  medicines,  and  spices  of  every  kind. 

I  visited  the  city  as  often  as  my  duties  would  permit,  but  it 
is  too  well  known  to  require  much  to  be  said  of  it.  It  is  built 
on  the  west  side  of  the  bay  formed  by  the  debouche  of  the 
river  of  Janeiro,  and  has  a  very  picturesque  appearance  from 
the  water.  It  is  the  largest  and  one  of  the  most  flourishing 
cities  in  South  America.  At  the  last  census  Rio  Janeiro  had 
250,000  inhabitants.  It  contains  many  rich  churches,  two 
hospitals,  besides  a  miserecordia,  a  college,  a  museum  open 
twice  a  week,  two  theatres,  one  opera,  and  several  public 
gardens. 

The  population  is  perhaps  more  mixed  than  that  of  any 
other  city  in  the  world.  It  consists  of  Europeans,  mulattoes, 
mamalucoes,  or  a  mixed  caste,  between  whites  and  aborigines, 
free  negroes  born  in  Brazil,  manumitted  Africans,  mestizoes 
or  zamboes,  between  the  mamalucoes  and  negroes,  &c.,  &c. 

The  Imperial  Palace  fronts  the  Grand  Plaza.  It  is  a  large 
three-story,  stone  edifice,  with  a  handsome  portico  in  front. 
The  apartments  occupied  by  the  royal  family  are  spacious  and 


RIO   JANEIRO,    BRAZIL.  31 

airy,  and  furnished  with  regal  splendor.  Rio  is  indebted  for 
many  of  its  public  buildings  to  Don  Pedro  I.  It  was  his 
ambition  to  make  the  capital  of  Brazil  a  second  Lisbon. 

The  appearance  of  the  city  on  Sundays  is  very  much  the 
same  as  on  week  days  ;  the  stores  do  business,  and  the  work- 
shops are  kept  open.  A  few  of  the  inhabitants  may  be  seen 
to  attend  divine  service  on  that  day,  but  the  greater  number 
spend  their  time  at  the  billiard-rooms  and  theatres.  Religion, 
which  is  Roman  Catholic,  according  to  the  latest  statistical 
accounts,  is  in  a  very  depressed  condition.  The  revenues  of 
the  church  are  so  small  that  few  respectable  persons  will 
undertake  its  duties  ;  and  those  who  do  officiate  are  generally 
ill-instructed. 

Another  circumstance  which  struck  me  very  forcibly  was 
the  immense  number  of  slaves*  employed  about  the  streets  as 
carriers  of  coffee  and  sugar.  They  go  about  almost  naked, 
and  bear  upon  their  bodies  the  distinctive  mark  of  their  tribe. 
They  appear  to  work  with  cheerfulness,  and  generally  go  about 
in  gangs  with  a  leader,  who  sings  while  they  are  carrying 
their  loads.  The  song  usually  relates  to  their  native  countr}^, 
and  they  all  join  in  the  chorus.  They  constitute  a  large  pro- 
portion of  the  population  of  the  city.  In  general,  they  are 
kindly  treated  by  their  masters,  and  may  purchase  their  free-  ' 
dom.  Their  color  operates  less  to  their  prejudice  than  with 
us.  When  free  they  vote,  and  are  eligible  to  a  seat  in  the 
national  legislature,  or  to  any  situation  in  the  army  and  navy. 

The  aqueduct  which  supplies  Rio  with  water,  is  a  splendid 
and  substantial  work.  It  extends  from  the  city  to  a  reservoir 
on  the  summit  of  Corcovada  mountain,  distant  about  twelve 
miles.       This  reservoir  is  supplied  by  the  mountain-vapors 

♦  Previous  to  1830,  the  number  of  slaves  annually  imported  into  Brazil  amounted  to 
40,000.    Since  the  prohibition  of  their  importation  the  numbers  have  fallen  ofl'  11,000. 


82  RIO    JANEIROj    BRAZIL. 

which  the  night  temperature  converts  into  copious  rains.  The 
water  is  cool,  delightful  to  the  taste,  and  clear  as  crystal. 

There  is  a  navy-yard  at  Rio  Janeiro.  It  presents,  how- 
ever, but  little  activity  ;  for  the  Brazillian  navy  is  now 
dwindled  down  to  a  few  vessels  ;  previous  to  the  abdication  of 
Don  Pedro  I.*  it  was  large  and  efficient. 

The  currency  is  paper,  the  gold  and  silver  being  mere  arti- 
cles of  commerce,  and  consequently  subject  to  great  fluctu- 
ation. 

On  the  26th,  the  "  RelieP'  arrived.  Her  officers  stated 
that  the  great  length  of  the  passage  was  owing  more  to  calms, 
and  variable  winds  than  bad  sailing.  There  were  many  days 
during  which  she  did  not  make  more  than  a  mile  on  her 
course.  On  the  17th,  she  fell  in  with  the  hull  of  the  brig 
"  Nile,"  of  Bath,  both  masts  gone,  within  a  few  feet  of  the 
partners,  and  her  hold  was  nearly  filled  with  water.  It  was 
evident  she  had  been  in  this  situation  for  some  time  ;  clusters 
of  shell-fish  were  fastened  to  her  decks  and  bulwarks,  and 
long  sea-weeds  flaunted  at  her  sides.  As  her  bowsprit  was 
still  standing  in  good  condition.  Captain  Long  caused  it  to  be 
cut  away,  and  taken  on  board  the  "  Relief."  Nothing  more 
occurred  during  her  passage  worthy  of  notice. 

On  the  morning  of  the  27th  we  hauled  up  to  Enxadas  ;  landed 
the  provisions  and  stores,  and  then  proceeded  to ''  smoke  ship." 
We  performed  this  troublesome  and  disagreeable  operation  in 
the  hope  that  we  might  destroy  the  roaches,  which  from  the 
time  of  our  leaving  the  United  States,  had  been  a  source  of  the 
greatest  annoyance  to  us. 

Enxadas  is  also  the  place  where  our  observatory  was  ercct- 

♦  Don  Pedro  I.  ascended  the  throne  in  18-2-2,  unde  the  title  of  Emperor  of  Brazil, 
After  a  reign  of  a  few  years,  the  violence  of  political  parties  rose  to  such  a  height,  and 
became  so  unmanageable,  that  the  Emperor  thought  it  prudent  to  abdicate  in  favor  of 
his  son,  the  present  Emperor. 


H 


RIO    JANEIRO,    BRAZIL.  33 

ed.  It  is  a  small  rocky  island,  situated  opposite  Rio,  with  a 
large  dwelling-house  standing  at  one  end  of  it,  and  a  number 
of  other  buildings  which  were  formerly  used  by  shipping  as 
store-houses.  It  is  at  present  the  property  of  a  wealthy 
French  family,  residing  in  Rio  Janeiro,  but  formerly,  we  were 
told,  it  was  owned  by  the  church,  and  the  dweihng  house 
above  mentioned  was  a  nunnery. 

December  1st  was  the  anniversary  of  the  Emperor's  birth- 
day, Don  Pedro  II.  The  occasion  was  celebrated  with  salutes, 
illuminations,  and  fireworks. 

December  10th.  I  received  orders  to  relieve  Mr.  C,  on 
board  the  "  Relief,"  he  being  obliged  to  return  to  the  United 
States  on  account  of  ill  health. 

On  the  17th,  got  under-way,  and  were  towed  out  the  har- 
bor by  boats  from  the  "  Independence"  and  "  Porpoise,"  but 
the  wind  failing  soon  after  the  boats  left,  we  let-go  the  anchor 
to  prevent  our  being  drifted  on  shore  by  the  tide.  At  an 
early  hour  next  morning  the  breeze  sprung  up  from  the  south- 
ward and  eastward,  and  we  hove-up  the  anchor,  and  stood 
down  the  coast. 

January  2d.  The  Barometer  was  observed  to  fall  from 
29,  84.  to  29,  52  ;  but  the  weather  remained  pleasant. 

During  the  4th,  many  birds  were  seen  ;  among  others,  the 
albatross  (diomedia  exulans,)  giant  petrel,  cape  pigeon,  and  a 
species  of  gull. 

On  the  10th,  we  passed  Cape  St.  Joseph.  This  cape  is  a 
rough,  rocky  headland,  about  150  feet  in  height.  A  large 
number  of  guanacos  were  seen  on  a  neighboring  hill,  and  a 
great  many  birds  on  the  beach. 

At  daylight  on  the  21st,  made  the  land  near  the  strait  of 
Le  Maire.  At  9  A.  M.,  passed  Staten  Land. .  The  aspect 
of  this  island  is  wild  and  savage  beyond  description,  or  even 


3^  COAST  OF  TERRA  DEL  FUEGO. 


imagination.  At  11  A.  M.,  found  ourselves  in  the  Straits  of 
Le  Maire,  and  as  the  wind  was  unfavorable,  we  ran  into 
the  Bay  of  Good  Success,  and  anchored  in  thirteen  fathoms 
water. 

January  22d.  Landed  in  a  cove  situated  near  the  south- 
west end  of  the  bay.  Saw  a  stream  of  fresh  water  about  fifty 
feet  wide,  which  discharged  itself  into  the  bay ;  the  water  was 
of  a  dark  brown  color,  but  of  excellent  quality.  Ascended 
the  highest  hill  in  the  vicinity  of  the  bay ;  found  the  ascent, 
in  consequence  of  the  density  of  vegetation  and  looseness  of 
the  soil,  extremely  fatiguing,  but  on  reaching  the  summit, 
thought  ourselves  amply  compensated  for  all  our  trouble,  by 
the  magnificent  view  afforded  us  of  the  surrounding  country. 
Several  of  our  number  had  taken  their  guns  with  them, 
expecting  to  find  plenty  of  game,  but  were  disappointed.  We 
saw  no  living  animals  of  any  kind.  At  daylight  we  got  under 
way,  and  stood  out  of  the  bay  with  a  light  breeze,  but  it  soon 
died  away,  and  the  ship  was  drifted  back  into  the  bay.  About 
6  o'clock,  several  natives  were  seen  to  come  opposite  the  ship, 
and,  in  order  to  draw  our  attention,  set  up  a  shout.  By 
8  o'clock,  having  drifted  back  to  our  former  berth,  we  again 
came  to  anchor.  Soon  after  this  we  left  the  ship  in  three 
armed  boats,  to  visit  the  natives.  On  our  landing  they  came 
running  toward  us,  and  after  welcoming  us  to  their  shores, 
which  they  did  by  first  placing  their  hands  upon  their  breasts 
and  then  pointing  to  the  ground,  they  commenced  crying  out, 
"  cuchillo,"  "  cuchillo."  This  being  the  Spanish  for  knife, 
and  as  Wadel  in  his  book  states,  that  they  have  many  Spanish 
words  in  their  language,  we  were  all  under  the  impression  they 
were  asking  if  we  had  any  knives  to  sell.  We  were,  how- 
ever, soon  convinced  that  we  had  not  understood  them,  for  on 
showing  them  our  knives  they  still  kept  crying  out  '^  cuchillo." 


TERRA    DEL    FUEGO.  35 

They  also  repeated  the  word  when  we  showed  them  a  string 
of  beads,  or  a  looking-glass.  In  short,  although  the  word  was 
kept  up  during  the  whole  intercourse,  it  was  impossible  to 
learn  its  meaning.  They  were  admirable  mimics,  and  would 
repeat  our  own  words  with  great  accuracy,  and  even  appeared 
to  understand  some  of  them.  They  seemed  to  attach  great 
value  to  iron  and  steel,  and  would  readily  exchange  their  bows 
and  arrows  for  a  piece  of  an  iron  hoop  or  a  few  rusty  nails. 

The  party  consisted  of  fourteen  men,  and,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  headman,  or  chief,  were  all  young,  well-formed,  and 
good-looking.  The  two  sons  of  the  chief  were  particularly  so ; 
they  were  full  six  feet  in  height,  and  had  very  pleasing  coun- 
tenances. They  all  had  their  hair  cut  short  on  the  crown  of 
the  head,  leaving  a  narrow  border  of  hair  hanging  down; 
over  this  they  wear  a  kind  of  a  cap,  or  a  band,  made  from  the 
skin  of  an  albatross.  The  front  teeth  of  all  of  them  were  very 
much  worn,  more  apparent,  however,  in  the  old  than  in  the 
young.  Their  faces  were  painted,  or,  more  properly  speaking, 
smeared  with  red  and  white  clays  Their  dress  consisted  of  a 
single  guanaco  skin,  which  covered  the  body  from  the  shoul- 
ders down  to  the  knees.  All  had  sore  eyes,  which  we  attri- 
buted to  their  long  winters.  None  of  their  women  or  children 
were  seen,  but  we  thought  they  had  them  concealed  in  a  piece 
of  wood  not  far  distant,  as  they  objected  to  any  of  us  going 
toward  it,  and  showed  much  alarm  when  fire-arms  were 
pointed  in  that  direction.  They  appeared  to  have  very  little 
curiosity,  and  nothing  seemed  to  excite  their  surprise ;  their 
principal  characteristic  seemed  to  be  jealousy.  It  would 
seem  that  they  have  had  intercourse  with  Europeans  before. 
The  report  of  our  guns  did  not  frighten  them  in  the  slightest 
degree.  We  also  observed  on  one  of  them  a  string  of  glass 
beads. 


36  TERRA    DEL    PUEGO. 


Their  food  consists  principally  of  shell-fish  and  fish.  Their 
fishing-apparatus  is  made  of  the  dorsal-fin  of  a  fish,  tied  to  a 
slip  of  whalebone  in  the  form  of  a  barb ;  this  serves  as  a 
hook,  and  with  it  they  obtain  their  food. 

All  our  endeavors  to  entice  them  to  come  on  board  by 
friendly  treatment,  and  the  o^ffer  of  presents,  were  useless. 
They  shook  their  heads  and  pointed  to  the  woods,  and  then 
ran  some  distance  from '  the  beach,  as  if  they  feared  that  we 
intended  to  carry  them  off  by  force. 

On  the  24th  we  quitted  Good  Success  Bay.  We  expe- 
rienced during  this  day  a  strong  current,  setting  northerly. 
The  coast  here  may  be  represented  as  a  succession  of  peaks ; 
some  of  which  rise  so  high  as  to  be  covered  with  perpetual 
snows.     The  weather  was  mild  and  pleasant. 

On  the  25th  the  wind  came  out  from  the  southwest,  and 
blew  very  fresh  at  intervals.  At  5  P.  M.,  anchored  off 
north-eastern  side  of  New  Island.  After  sunset  the  weather 
cleared,  and  we  had  a  very  pleasant  night. 

On  the  following  morning  after  breakfast,  we  visited  the 
shore.  We  saw  no  human  beings,  but  found  near  the  beach 
a  hut,  which  bore  many  traces  of  being  inhabited.  It  con- 
tained a  large  number  of  muscle-shells,  which  looked  fresh,  a 
part  of  a  seal-skin,  and  a  large  heap  of  ashes.  We  also 
observed  that  the  ground  about  the  entrance  was  hard  and 
destitute  of  vegetation.  The  hut  was  constructed  of  logs,  the 
lower  ends  of  which  were  spread  round  so  as  to  form  nearly  a 
perfect  circle,  while  the  upper  ends  leaned  against  each  other. 
The  interstices  were  filled  with  earth  and  grass,  ^n  the 
centre  was  a  hole,  about  two  feet  in  circumference,  for  the 
smoke  to  pass  through.  The  entrance  was  from  the  west, 
and  was  about  three  feet  in  height  and  two  feet  wide. 

We  had  not  time  to  examine  much  of  the  interior  of  the 


TERRA    DEL    FUEGO.  37 

island,  but  that  which  did  come  under  our  observation  pre- 
sented a  scene  which  we  did  not  expect  to  witness  in  so  high 
a  latitude.  There  was  an  abundance  of  vegetation,  and  much 
more  advanced  than  any  which  was  seen  at  Good  Success  Bay. 

On  the  26th  of  January  we  left  New  Island,  and  stood  to 
the  westward.  It  was  very  provoking  to  find  that  our  charts 
so  entirely  misrepresented  this  part  of  the  coast  and  islands, 
as  to  destroy  our  confidence  in  them.  At  11  A.  M.,  saw 
what  was  supposed  to  be  Saddle  Island.  At  meridian  it  was 
so  hazy  that  we  were  unable  to  obtain  a  meridian  observation, 
which  was  greatly  needed,  in  order  to  ascertain  our  true 
position. 

On  the  27th,  at  2  P.  M.,  we  anchored  in  a  small  harbor. 
At  first  sight  we  were  under  the  impression  that  this  was 
Orange  Bay,  but  upon  further  examination  we  found  that  we 
had  been  deceived ;  and  at  7  A.  M.,  Lieutenant  Underwood 
was  dispatched  to  reconnoitre  the  coast. 

In  the  afternoon  we  took  a  stroll  on  shore.  The  land  for 
some  miles  back  from  the  beach  was  low,  and  the  soil  ap- 
peared less  fertile  than  any  we  had  yet  seen.  It  bore  in  spots 
a  small  red  berry,  which  had  a  pleasant  flavor.  Visited  a 
hut,  in  which  was  found  a  knife  and  a  piece  of  Guernsey 
frock  ;  the  knife  was  originally  a  part  of  an  iron-hoop.  The 
hut  was  not  in  such  good  preservation  as  that  found  on  New 
Island. 

The  wild  goose,  the  shag  duck,  and  some  others  of  the 
feathered  tribe,,  were  in  great  abundance  here,  and  many  were 
killed  by  the  scientific  gentlemen,  and  their  skins  preserved 
for  the  government.  Found,  by  an  excellent  meridian  obser- 
vation, the  latitude  of  our  anchorage  to  be  55°  20'  30''  south ; 
longitude  by  chronometer  67°  37'  00"  west.  At  sunset  Mr 
Underwood  returned. 


38  TERRA   DEL   FUEGO. 


On  the  following  day  we  quitted  the  harhor  above  referred 
to,  and  coasted  along  in  search  of  Orange  Bay.  Passed  a 
number  of  islands,  which  answered  the  description  given  of 
those  in  the  vicinity  of  Orange  Bay  by  Captain  King.  At 
6  P.  M.,  came-to  in  a  large,  beautiful  bay ;  it  was  nearly  cir- 
cular in  shape,  and  was  bounded  on  all  sides  with  undulating 
hills,  covered  with  evergreen  foliage,  to  their  very  summits. 

We  had  scarcely  let-go  the  anchor  when  a  canoe,  with  five 
natives ;  three  men,  a  woman  and  child,  came  alongside. 
Upon  invitation  two  of  the  men  came  on  board  without  mani- 
festing the  slightest  hesitation  or  distrust,  and  we  were  not  a 
little  surprised  to  find  them  so  entirely  different  from  those  we 
had  seen  at  Good  Success  Bay.  They  spoke  an  entirely 
difierent  language,  were  of  a  low  stature,  ill-shaped,  and  wore 
their  hair  long.  So  great,  indeed,  was  the  difference  that  we 
could  no  longer  doubt  that  those  seen  at  Good  Success  were 
Patagonians,  and  had  in  all  probability  come  there  in  quest  of 
game ;  while  these  were  the  real  Terra  del  Fuegians. 

They  were  not  more  than  five  feet  high,  of  light  copper- 
color,  which  was  much  concealed  by  smut  and  dirt ;  indeed, 
it  would  be  impossible  to  imagine  anything  in  human  nature 
more  filthy  and  disgusting.  They  had  short  faces,  narrow 
foreheads,  and  high  cheek-bones.  The  hair  was  long,  lank 
and  black,  hanging  over  the  face,  and  was  covered  with  ashes. 
Their  bodies  were  remarkable,  for  the  great  development  of 
the  chest  and  shoulders;  their  arms  were  long  and  out  of 
proportion ;  their  legs  were  small  and  very  much  bowed. 
Tine  woman  was  young,  but  no  better-looking  than  the  men. 
She  was  seated  at  one  end  of  the  canoe,  and  appeared  to  take 
an  equal  share  with  the  men  in  the  labors  of  the  paddle.  We 
invited  her  on  board  repeatedly,  but  she  would  not  venture ; 
doubtless  she  was  afraid  of  offending  the  men,  who  are  very 


TERRA    DEL    FUEGO,  89 

jealous.  The  child  had  an  interesting  countenance,  and  was, 
I  should  judge,  about  three  years  of  age,  though  it  was  still  in 
arms.  It  was  attired  in  the  same  manner  as  the  rest ;  a  piece 
of  seal-skin,  about  a  foot  square,  tied  around  its  waist,  being 
all  the  poor  little  thing  had  on  to  protect  it  against  one  of  the 
coldest  days  that  we  had  yet  experienced. 

Our  two  friends  appeared  to  be  much  pleased  with  their 
visit ;  their  countenances  and  manner  plainly  indicated  the 
pleasure  which  they  felt  on  seeing  so  many  new  objects. 
When  about  to  leave,  we  made  them  some  presents  in  the  way 
of  clothes,  with  which  they  all  appeared  to  be  greatly  pleased, 
and  insisted  upon  giving  us  in  return  some  bows  and  arrows. 
It  was  very  amusing  to  see  them  in  their  new  dress ;  they 
moved  about  with  strutting  aftectation  of  dignity,  and  gave 
themselves  a  thousand  consequential  airs. 

Their  imitation  of  sounds  was  truly  astonishing ;  we  tried 
them  with  the  flute  and  guitar,  and  they  followed  the  sounds 
correctly.  They  were  also  found  to  be  great  mimics  in  action ; 
anything  they  saw,  they  would  mimic,  and  with  an  extraor- 
dinary degree  of  accuracy.  They  were  very  talkative,  and 
often  burst  out  into  a  loud  laughter  when  with  each  other ; 
but  whenever  they  discovered  that  we  were  watching  them, 
they  looked  as  grave  as  judges,  and  said  but  little.  We  also 
observed  that  they  spoke  to  each  other  in  a  whisper. 

Their  arms  consisted  of  bows,  arrows,  and  spears.  They 
use  the  latter  for  killing  the  seal,  which  is  found  in  great 
abundance  in  all  the  bays,  and  wliich  they  esteem  to  be  excel- 
lent food. 

At  an  early  hour  next  day  another  canoe,  with  seven  natives, 
came  alongside,  and  asked  permission  to  come  on  board ;  but 
finding  it  could  not  be  granted  so  early  in  the  day,  they 
paddled  off  again,  and  we  saw  no  more  of  them. 


40  TERRA    DEL    FUEGO. 


In  the  afternoon  we  visited  the  shore,  and  very  soon  fell  in 
with  the  natives,  who  came  on  board  on  the  day  of  our  arrival. 
They  immediately  commenced  jumping  up  and  down,  which  is 
their  mode  of  expressing  friendship.  One  of  them,  who  had  a 
pair  of  pantaloons  given  him,  had  them  tied  round  his  neck, 
and  another  had  the  skirts  of  his  coat  cut  off;  the  reason 
he  assigned  for  doing  so  was  that  they  were  in  his  way. 
Their  hut  was  constructed  after  the  manner  of  that  we  saw 
at  New  Island,  and  bore  quite  a  neat  and  comfortable  ap- 
pearance. The  ground  was  swept  clean,  and  in  the  centre  a 
large  fire  was  burning,  over  which  hung  a  string  of  fish.  The 
other  articles  which  it  contained  were  some  shells,  which  were 
carefully  laid  upon  some  clean  leaves,  and  the  blanket  we  had 
given  to  the  woman  on  the  previous  day.  They  seldom  cook 
their  food  much.  The  shell-fish  are  detached  from  their  shell 
by  heat,  and  the  fish  are  partly  roasted  in  their  skins  without 
being  cleaned.  It  was  evident  that,  notwithstanding  our  kind 
treatment  to  these  people,  we  had  not  gained  their  confidence ; 
for,  on  seeing  us  approach  the  hut,  the  woman  fled  with  her 
child,  nor  could  we  prevail  upon  the  men  to  cause  her  to  return. 

As  this  harbor  was  not  put  down  on  any  of  the  charts  in 
our  possession,  we  believed  it  to  be  a  discovery,  and  named  it 
after  our  ship. 

On  the  30th,  we  once  more  got  under-way,  and  after  a 
further  search  of  a  few  hours,  we  succeeded  in  finding  Orange 
Bay.  Our  observations  placed  it  in  latitude  55°  31'  00'' 
south,  and  longtitude  68°  00'  20"  west.  It  is  capacious, 
easy  of  access,  and  better  protected  from  the  southwest  "winds 
than  any  place  as  yet  known  on  the  coast  of  Terra  del  Fuego. 
About  a  mile  from  the  southern  shore  are  two  islands,  the 
largest  of  which  is  two  miles  in  length,  of  a  moderate  height, 
and  called  Burnt  Island.     The  land  to  the  southward  is  rocky 


TERRA    DEL    FUEGO.  41 


and  barren,  but  that  to  the  northward  abounds  in  wood  and 
water.  The  trees  grow  nearly  down  to  the  water's  edge,  and 
some  are  from  sixty  to  seventy  feet  in  height,  having  all  their 
tops  bent  to  the  northeast  by  the  prevailing  southwest  winds. 
The  beach  wa"s  covered  with  rocks  of  trap  formation  ;  it  also 
abounded  in  shells,  especially  in  the  muscle  and  petela. 

On  the  morning  after  our  arrival,  a  canoe  with  six  natives, 
five  men  and  one  woman,  came  off  to  the  ship,  bringing  with 
them  spear-heads  and  necklaces  made  of  shells,  which  they 
readily  exchanged  for  cotton  handkerchiefs  and  pieces  of  iron. 
They  were  invited  to  come  on  board,  but  at  first  only  one 
would  venture  ;  this  was  a  young  man  about  nineteen  years  of 
age,  and  rather  good-looking.  They  were  evidently  of  the 
same  race  as  those  we  had  seen  at  Relief  Harbor ;  they  spoke 
the  same  language,  and  resembled  them  in  their  features  and 
dress.  The  woman  was  old  and  extremely  ugly,  and  as  mas- 
cuhne  in  her  appearance  as  any  of  the  men.  She  declined 
coming  on  board.  Her  face  was  painted  black  and  red  in 
vertical  lines,  and  she  wore  a  necklace  made  of  shells  ;  her 
posture  while  she  remained  in  the  boat  was  that  of  a  squat. 
Their  canoe  was  made  of  strips  of  bark  sewed  together,  and 
strengthened  by  ribs  and  gunwale  pieces,  and  was  about 
twenty-five  feet  long  and  three  feet  wide.  The  blades  of  the 
paddles  were  so  narrow  as  to  be  of  very  little  use  in  a  sea  way. 
The  bottom  of  the  canoe  was  covered  with  a  layer  of  clay, 
upon  which  a  fire  was  kept  burning.  It  would  seem  from  the 
great  care  they  appear  to  take  of  their  fire,  that,  when  extin- 
guished, it  is  no  easy  matter  for  them  to  rekindle  it. 

When  this  party  left  the  ship,  they  employed  themselves  for 
several  hours  in  fishing  amongst  the  kelp,  and  then  they  pulled 
up  towards  the  head  of  the  bay  where  their  hut  was  located, 
and  which  was  found  to  be  quite  differently  constructed  from 


42  TERRA    DEL    FUEGO. 


any  we  had  previously  seen.     It  was  built  of  boughs,  leaves,  . 
and  earth  ;  in  shape  it  resembled  a  bee-hive,  and  was  imper- 
vious to  wind  and  snow.     The  entrance  was  low  and  oval- 
shaped.     The  floor  was  formed  of  clay,  and  in  the  centre 
was  an  excavation  which  contained  the  fire. 

January  31st.  Mi«.  C.  with  six  seamen,  took  possession  of 
Burnt  Island,  for  the  purpose  of  making  observations  on 
the  tide.  He  met  there  several  of  the  natives  who  had 
visited  the  ship  ;  they  were  out  gathering  berries,  of  which 
one  kind  grows  here  in  great  abundance,  and  has  a  very 
pleasant  flavor ;  its  color  is  bright  red. 

February  1st,  2d,  3d,  and  4th,  we  experienced  strong  south- 
west gales,  accompanied  with  heavy  rain.  On  the  5th,  the 
gale  subsided,  and  the  weather  became  mild  and  pleasant. 

Mr.  C.  sent  on  board  a  great  variety  of  birds  which  he 
shot  on  Burnt  Island,  and  their  skins  were  preserved  for 
government. 

February  12th.  We  experienced  more  very  disagreeable 
weather. 

On  the  17th,  the  schooner  "  Sea  Gull "  arrived ;  she 
reported  the  rest  of  the  squadron  to  be  only  a  few  miles  ofl*. 

In  the  course  of  February  18th  and  19th,  the  "  Vin- 
cennes,"  "  Peacock,"  "  Porpoise,"  and  "  Flying  Fish," 
arrived  and  anchored. 

On  the  morning  of  the  25th,  the  "  Peacock,"  "  Porpoise," 
and  the  two  schooners  saikd  on  a  cruise  to  the  South  Pole. 
Captain  Wilkes  took  passage  in  the  "  Porpoise,"  and  tlie 
report  is  that  the  "  Vincennes  "  will  remain  here  until  his 
return. 

At  8  A.  M.,  on  the  26th,  we  got  under-way,  and  stood  out 
through  the  southern  passage.  About  11,  passed  False  Cape 
Horn  ;  and  00.20'  P.  M.,  descried  the  islands  of  Ildefonsas. 


STORM    OFF    CAPE    HORN.  43 

March  3d.  We  had  fresh  breezes  from  the  westward, 
accompaiiied  with  rain  and  a  heavy  head  sea.  The  barometer 
was  referred  to  frequently,  but  was  found  very  fluctuating, 
and  gave  no  indications  of  the  weather. 

During  the  night  of  the  6th,  the  wind  increased  to  such  a 
degree  as  to  oblige  us  to  reduce  sail  to  a  close-reefed  main- 
topsail  and  fore-storm  staysail. 

About  noon  on  the  8th,  the  gale  moderated,  and  we  flattered 
ourselves  we  should  have  fine  weather  once  more ;  but  a  little 
before  sunset  it  began  to  increase  again. 

During  the  10th  and  11th,  the  wind  was  moderate,  but  very 
variable,  and  accompanied  with  rain  at  intervals.  In  the 
afternoon  of  the  last  mentioned  day  an  albatross  was  shot, 
which  measured  nine  feet  from  the  tip  of  one  wing  to  the  tip 
of  the  other.  We  caught  several  smaller  ones  with  hook 
and  line.  To  kill  these,  the  region  of  the  brain  was  pierced 
with  a  large  sewing  needle,  which  produced  instant  death. 
At  sunset  the  coast  of  Terra  del  Fuego  was  reported  in  sight 
from  aloft. 

On  the  morning  of  the  13th  an  alarm  of  fire  was  given ; 
but  it  proved  to  be  the  igniting  of  the  alcohol  of  the  lamp 
belonging  to  the  dispensary,  and  was  soon  extinguished  without 
doing  any  damage. 

March  18th.  Finding  the  wind  was  increasing,  wore  ship 
and  reduced  sail.  At  1.30  P.  M.,  descried  Noir  Island  under 
our  lee ;  and  soon  after  the  Tower  Rocks,  a  short  distance 
ahead,  and  on  our  lee  bow.  The  wind  continued  to  increase ; 
the  waves  rose  in  mountains,  and  the  ship  was  rapidly  drifting 
towards  the  coast  of  Terra  del  Fuego.  To  avoid,  therefore, 
being  wrecked,  after  passing  Tower  Rocks,  we  hauled  up  for 
the  southeast  point  of  Noir  Island,  and  at  4.45  P.  M.,  came- 
to   in   seventeen  fathoms  water  with    both    bower-anchors, 


44  STORM    OFF    CAPE    HORN. 

veering  on  one  cable  to  105  fathoms,  and  on  the  other  to 
120  fathoms. 

The  following  morning,  the  gale  moderating,  we  began  to 
hope  for  a  favorable  change  of  weather  ;  but  towards  sunset 
the  wind  shifting  to  the  southward,  all  hope  of  such  change 
vanished.  The  wind  now  freshened  again,  and  by  midnight 
blew  with  such  force  that  we  let-go  our  last  anchor,  in  the 
hope  of  keeping  the  ship  off  shore  till  daylight,  when  perhaps 
we  might  make  sail  and  stand  out  to  sea.  It  Avas  so  uncom- 
monly dark,  that  there  was  quite  as  much,  and  perhaps  more 
danger  in  attempting  to  get  to  sea,  than  in  holding  on. 

At  daylight  we  found  that  the  larboard  bower-chain  had 
parted,  and  the  larboard  sheet  become  unshackled  at  forty- 
five  fathoms  ;  we  also  found  the  ship  had  dragged  so  as  to  be 
much  nearer  the  reef  off  Penguin  Point. 

The  sky  grew  more  angry  as  the  day  declined  ; — 

**  The  setting  orb  in  crimson  *  seem'd  to  mourn,' 

Denouncing  greater  woes  at  his  return ; 

And  adds  new  horrors  to  the  present  doom, 

By  certain  fears  of  evils  yet  to  come." 

After  the  sun  went  down  the  storm  raged  with  greater  vio- 
lence than  at  any  previous  time.  Never  had  we  seen  it  blow 
so  hard  before,  nor  ever  beheld  such  billows.  A  little  after 
8  o'clock  the  ship  commenced  dragging,  and  a  tremendous 
wave  came  over  the  bows,  which  dashed  a  number  of  the  crew 
against  the  masts  and  guns,  and  completely  inundated  the 
berth-deck.  Though,  about  9  o'clock,  the  wind  changed  its 
direction,  so  that  the  ship  tailed  clear  of  the  above-mentioned 
reef,  yet  we  were  not  rescued  from  the  danger  of  being  ship- 
wrecked. At  every  moment  the  water  was  becoming  more 
and  more  shoal.     In  less  than  half  an  hour  it  shoaled  six 


PASSAGE    TO    VALPARAISO.  46 

fathoms,  and  the  storm  still  raged  with  unabated  fury ;  how- 
ever, to  our  great  delight,  about  midnight  it  began  perceptibly 
to  moderate. 

We  hailed  with  joy  the  ray  of  comfort  Jbhis  aiForded  us.  It 
was  hke  the  arrival  of  an  old  friend,  whose  presence  in  the 
hour  of  misfortune  affords  consolation.  It  was  believed  that 
we  passed  within  twenty  yards  of  the  reef;  and  had  the  storm 
continued  a  few  moments  longer  we  would  inevitably  have 
been  lost. 

At  3.30  A.  M.,  the  ship  fell-off  before  the  wind,  upon  which 
we  slipped  the  remaining  cables,  made  sail,  hauled  on  a  wind 
on  the  larboard-tack,  and  stood  out  to  sea.  By  7  A.  M.  the 
ship  was  under  whole  topsails  and  main-top-gallant  sail,  and 
was  rapidly  increasing  her  distance  from  the  spot,  which,  only 
a  few  hours  before,  filled  every  bosom  with  so  many  death-like 
apprehensions. 

On  the  27th,  we  fell  in  with  the  "  Montezuma,"  a  whale-ship, 
from  Talcauanaha,  bound  to  Nantucket.  Her  captain  informed 
us  of  the  taking  of  Lima  by  the  Chilian  army.  He  also  pre- 
sented us  with  a  quantity  of  vegetables,  for  which  he  received 
our  warmest  thanks.  We  had  not  tasted  anything  of  the 
kind  since  we  left  Rio  Janeiro.  During  the  night,  the  breeze 
became  very  light. 

April  4th.  We  captured  with  the  hook  seven  albatrosses  ; 
the  plumage  of  two  of  which  was  extremely  beautiful.  This 
is  the  best  mode  of  taking  them  when  the  ship  has  but  little 
head-way.  Two  were  prepared  for  dinner,  but  they  were  far 
from  being  good  eating,  the  flesh  being  very  tough  and  fishy. 

At  daylight  on  the  13th,  we  made  the  coast  of  Chili  on  our 
lee  bow,  and  at  7  Mount  Quillota  bore  per  compass  north  60° 
east.  In  the  afternoon  sent  Lieutenant  Underwood  into 
Valparaiso  to  procure  an  anchor.     At  an  early  hour  on  the 


46  ARRIVAL    AT   VALPARAISO. 

following  morning  he  returned,  and  reported  there  was  a 
chain-cable  in  the  government  stores,  but  no  anchors;  the 
only  one  to  be  obtained  belonged  to  H.  B.  M.  ship  "  Presi- 
dent," which  Captain  Lock  kindly  offered  us  the  loan  of. 
Received  the  anchor  on  board,  and  got  it  ready  for  letting  go. 
On  the  15th,  we  came-to  in  the  roads  of  Valparaiso ; — 

**  Where  Valparaiso's  cliffs  and  flowers. 
In  mirror 'd  wildness,  sweep 
Their  shadows  round  the  mermaid's  bower, 
Our  steadfast  anchors  sleep." 

On  the  same  day  the  American  ship  "  Meriposa"  from  New 
York,  with  stores  for  the  squadron,  arrived.  Her  master  was 
kind  enough  to  send  us  a  large  file  of  newspapers,  all  of  which 
we  read  with  infinite  satisfaction. 


CHILI    AND    VALPARAISO.  47 


CHAPTER  III. 

CHILI    AND    VALPARAISO. 

Chili  is  washed  on  the  west  by  the  Pacific  Ocean ;  on  the 
east  bounded  by  the  Cordilleras  ;  on  the  south  by  Patagonia ; 
and  on  the  north  by  Bolivia.  Like  all  other  parts  of  South 
America,  it  is  subject  to  earthquakes  ;  deep  ravines  may  be 
seen  intersecting  the  surface  in  all  directions.  The  appear- 
ance of  the  coast  is  far  from  being  inviting,  especially  in  the 
vicinity  of  Valparaiso ;  but  there  are  in  the  interior  many 
extensive  and  fertile  valleys.  The  southern  part  is  admirably 
adapted  to  the  growth  of  wheat,  of  which  large  quantities  are 
now  raised.  Chili  is  also  rich  in  mineral  productions ;  copper 
ore  is  found  in  the  mountains  in  the  greatest  abundance. 

The  climate  is  variable — the  southern  part  being,  on  account 
of  its  higher  southern  latitude,  considerably  colder.  At  Val- 
paraiso the  mean  temperature  at  midday  is  65°,  in  the  even- 
ing and  morning  60°.  During  the  winter,  which  commences 
the  first  of  May  and  ends  in  September,  the  rains  sometimes 
last  for  two  or  three  days,  and  during  their  continuance  the 
rivers  swell  to  three  or  four  times  their  usual  size. 

Earthquakes  are  sometimes  very  violent — that  of  18S5 
nearly  destroyed  the  towns  of  Talcahuana,  Aranco,  Talca, 
and  Conception.  At  Valparaiso  the  sea  receded  two  feet, 
and  the  ground  was  much  rent.  In  order  to  lessen  the 
destruction  of  human  life,  the  houses  are  usually  built  low  and 
of  light  material. 


48  CHILI    AND    VALPARAISO. 

The  population  of  the  republic  is  estimated  at  one  million 
and  a  half. 

The  capital  is  St.  Jago,  which  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  the 
Cordilleras,  and  distant  about  sixty  miles  from  Valparaiso. 
All  of  our  officers  who  visited  it  were  delighted  with  it.  A 
long  Hne  of  turrets,  domes,  and  spires,  occasionally  screened 
by  intervening  trees,  planted  along  its  numerous  avenues, 
indicated  the  city.  The  population  is  60,000.  It  has  a 
national  college,  a  military  academy,  various  private  semi- 
naries for  both  sexes,  an  extensive  hospital,  and  several  hand- 
some churches. 

Valparaiso  is  the  next  largest  town  in  the  republic,  and  is 
one  of  the  most  flourishing  places  in  the  Pacific.  In  1820  it 
consisted  of  fifteen  or  twenty  huts,  and  now  it  contains  eight  or 
nine  thousand  buildings,  and  individual  houses  fetch  an  annual 
rent  of  more  than  three  thousand  dollars.  Its  principal  street 
runs  parallel  with  the  beach — is  tolerably  wide,  and  contains 
many  large  and  commodious  shops,  well  supplied  with  English 
goods  and  various  other  kinds  of  merchandise.  The  remain- 
ing streets  are  paved,  but  are  narrow  and  winding.  The 
public  buildings  consist  of  the  churches,  the  Governor's 
palace,  and  the  custom-house.  The  dwellings  are  slightly 
built,  and  never  more  than  two  stories  high,  on  account  of 
the  earthquakes,  and  in  general  have  a  wooden  balcony  in 
front.  There  are  many  Americans  and  liglish  living  in  the 
city,  who  carry  on  a  lucrative  business,  thi  export  trade  being 
mostly  monopolized  by  them.  They  reside  on  the  hill  in  the 
rear  of  the  business  part  of  the  town,  in  neat  white  cottages, 
surrounded  by  flower-gardens.  This  is  the  most  pleasant 
part  of  the  city,  and  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  har- 
bor. From  here  may  be  seen  the  vessels  of  the  United 
States,  England,  France,  Holland,  Denmark,  and  Sweden, 


CHILI    AND    VALPARAISO.  49 

displaying  their  gay  flags  and  mingling  their  bright  streamers 
in  the  brilliant  effulgence  of  a  cloudless  sky. 

The  police  of  Valparaiso  is  celebrated  for  its  efficiency. 
Good  order  and  decorum  prevail  everywhere.  Crime  is  rarely 
heard  of,  and  never  suffered  to  go  unpunished.  The  credit  of 
forming  this  institution  is  given  to  Portales,  a  man  of  rare 
talents  and  great  energy  of  character.  It  consists  of  two 
distinct  bodies,  one  mounted,  and  the  other  on  foot;  the 
former  patrol  the  streets  on  horseback,  while  the  latter  watch 
over  a  particular  ward  or  district,  for  which  they  are  held 
responsible.  They  wear  a  uniform  and  a  sword,  to  distin- 
guish them  from  the  other  citizens. 

The  market  is  well  supphed.  Fruits  and  vegetables  are 
abundant  and  cheap ;  the  grapes,  peaches  and  pears  are  of 
the  best  kinds.  Beef  is  as  good  as  we  have  at  home.  There 
is  also  a  great  variety  of  fish* 

The  population  is  estimated  at  34,000,  and  is  rapidly 
increasing. 

The  principal  seaports  of  Chili  are  Valdavia,  Talcahuano, 
Copiapo,  Coquimbo,  Chiloe,  and  Guasco.  Talcahuano  and 
Valdavia  we  have  in  particular  heard  represented  as  most 
eligible  places  for  vessels  which  visit  these  seas,  to  touch  at. 
As  for  Valparaiso,  it  is  not  a  good  seaport;  it  is  entirely 
exposed  to  the  ocean  from  the  north,  so  that,  when  the  wind 
blows  with  violence  from  that  quarter,  which  is  the  case  during 
the  winter  season,  a  heavy  sea  sets  into  it,  and  renders  the 
anchorage  highly  dangerous.  It  is,  however,  more  frequented 
than  any  other  harbor.  Vessels  make  it  a  point  to  stop 
^ere,  whatever  may  Se  their  destination. 

The  common  people  of  Chili  are  a  mixed  race,  sprung  from 
bhe  anion  of  the  Spaniards  with  the  native  Indian  women. 
They  are  generally  well  made,  of  a  dark  brown  complexion, 


50  CHILI    AND    VALPARAISO. 

and  have  a  healthy  look.  They  bear  the  best  character  of  any 
of  the  South  Americans.  They  are  honest,  industrious,  and 
brave.  The  men  are  good  riders,  and  very  skillful  in  the  use 
of  the  lasso.     The  women  have  very  pretty  feet  and  hands. 

Their  habitations  are  built  of  reeds,  plastered  with  mud 
and  thatched  with  straw.  The  poncho  is  universally  worn  by 
the  men  ;  it  is  a  piece  of  i  loth  of  a  home  manufacture,  of  the 
shape  of  an  oblong  square,  with  a  hole  in  the  middle,  through 
which  the  head  is  passed,  the  longer  ends  hanging  down  to  the 
knees  before  and  behind — the  shorter  at  each  side  falling  over 
the  shoulders. 

Their  favorite  amusements  are  the  two  dances.  Fandango 
and  Sama  Cueca.  The  latter  is  performed  in  cities  and  large 
towns  at  the  Chingano ;  the  performers  are  usually  a  young 
man  and  woman,  gaudily  attired ;  they  stand  on  a  kind  of 
stage,  and  begin  the  dance  by  facing  each  other,  and  flirting 
handkerchiefs  over  each  other's  heads — then  they  approach 
and  retreat  alternately — occasionally  they  dart  off  on  each 
side.  The  whole  is  well  calculated  to  display  the  graces  of  a 
fine  figure  to  the  best  advantage.  Its  moral  tendency  may  be 
questioned.  Some  of  the  gestures  are  quite  lascivious,  and 
may  be  easily  understood  by  every  one  who  witnesses  the 
scene.  The  music  is  executed  altogether  by  females,  and 
consists  of  the  harp,  the  castanets,  and  the  guitar.  They  also 
add  to  this  a  national  love-song,  sung  in  Spanish,  which  the 
audience  seem  to  enjoy  more  than  any  other  part  of  the  per- 
formance. 

The  higher  classes  are  of  a  pure  Spanish  blood,  and  are 
intelligent  and  courteous  ;  they  pass  their  evenings  in  small 
social  assemblies,  called  Tertulias.  The  women  cannot  be 
said  to  be  beautiful,  but  they  are  virtuous  and  amiable.  They 
are  fond  of  dancing  and  music,  in  both  of  which  they  excel. 


CHILI    AND    VALPARAISO.  61 

Nearly  every  house  is  furnished  with  a  piano.  They  dress 
with  much  taste,  and  in  the  Parisian  style. 

The  men  have  been  accused  by  travelers  of  being  indolent ; 
no  doubt  such  was  the  case  when  they  were  under  the  Spanish 
rule,  and  had  no  inducement  to  be  otherwise,  but  I  have  been 
assured  by  foreign  gentlemen,  who  have  resided  in  the  country 
for  the  last  fifteen  years,  that  such  is  not  their  character  at 
the  present  day ;  on  the  contrary,  they  are  industrious  and 
enterprising. 

The  religion  of  Chili  is  the  Catholic ;  but  the  government 
has  repudiated  the  interference  of  the  Pope  in  the  appointment 
of  bishops  and  arch-bishops.  The  clergy  have  great  influence 
over  the  people,  and  much  political  power  in  the  state ;  but 
they  are  liberal  in  their  notions  of  government,  and  encourage 
the  diffusion  of  knowledge  amongst  the  lower  classes. 

Commerce  has  more  than  doubled  within  the  last  ten  years. 
According  to  the  statistical  accounts  of  the  past  year,  Val- 
paraiso alone  exports  thirty  thousand  hides.  Grain  is  sent 
to  Peru  and  Equador  in  large  quantities.  Six  hundred 
quintals  of  wool  are  shipped  annually  from  Conception.  Cop- 
per, hemp  and  platina  are  largely  exported.  The  iron  mines 
are  also  sources  of  great  wealth,  and  the  miners  annually  ex- 
tract vast  quantities  of  the  ore ;  indeed,  there  is  no  doubt  that 
Chili  is  blest  with  all  the  elements  necessary  to  make  her  a 
powerful  commercial  nation. 

The  army  which  was  sent  to  invade  Peru  in  the  war  just 
concluded,  is  said  to  have  consisted  of  8,000  men,  and  to  have 
been  well  appointed.  The  navy  is  larger,  and  by  far  more 
efficient,  than  that  of  any  of  the  other  South  American  States. 

The  prospects  of  education  are  bright.  There  are  several 
good  colleges  in  the  republic,  and  common  schools  are  being 
established  in  all  the  towns  for  the  instruction  of  the  lower 
f  


52 


CHILI    AND    VALPARAISO. 


classes ;  and  the  system  of  education  introduced  into  the 
schools  and  colleges  is  said  to  be  superior. 

The  administration  of  public  affairs  is  better  conducted 
than  in  any  other  country  in  South  America.  Generally 
speaking,  the  magistrates  are  men  of  ability  and  integrity, 
and  nowhere  else  are  life  and  property  better  protected.  Uni- 
versal suffrage  is  granted  by  the  laws  of  the  constitution  to 
every  one  above  twenty-five  years  of  age,  and  no  public 
measure  can  be  carried  which  is  adverse  to  the  welfare  of  the 
masses. 

On  the  28th  of  April,  General  Joaquim  Prieto,  President 
of  Chili,  arrived  from  St.  Jago.  He  was  received  by  the 
inhabitants  with  all  due  respect.  The  civil  authorities  and  the 
military  went  several  miles  out  of  the  city  to  receive  him ;  the 
batteries  saluted,  and  the  streets  through  w^hich  he  passed 
were  decorated  with  flags  and  evergreens. 

On  the  evening  of  the  30th,  we  attended  a  ball  given  by  the 
citizens  of  Valparaiso,  in  honor  of  the  recent  victory  of  Yungai 
over  the  Peruvians.  It  was  a  brilliant  affair,  equaling  any- 
thing of  the  kind  we  ever  witnessed  in  the  United  States,  or 
any  other  part  of  the  world.  The  place  selected  for  it  was  a 
space  between  two  large  buildings ;  temporary  arches  were 
erected  over  head,  and  the  whole  was  covered  with  an  awning, 
lined  with  blue  and  studded  with  stars.  The  room  was 
brilliantly  lighted  by  handsome  chandeliers  suspended  from 
the  arches  over  head ;  the  floor  was  carpeted,  and  the  pillars 
which  supported  the  roof  were  decorated  with  emblems  of  the 
victory  and  nation.  At  the  upper  end  there  was  a  transpa- 
rency of  General  Bulnes,  the  hero  of  Yungai,  surrounded 
with  scrolls  of  his  deeds.  On  the  sides  were  hung  paintings 
and  rich  mirrors,  in  which  hundreds  of  lights  were  reflected, 
while  the  national  flags,  formed  into  festoons,  intermixed  with 


CHILI    AND    YALPARAISO.  53 

wreaths  of  flowers  and  evergreens,  encircling  emblematic  de- 
signs of  the  nation's  glory,  produced  an  effect  that  was  truly 
beautiful.  The  president's  reception-room  and  the  card-rooms 
were  also  very  handsomely  decorated.  The  company  amounted 
to  five  hundred,  of  whom  about  one-fourth  were  ladies  ;  many 
native  and  foreign  officers  were  present,  dressed  in  their  uni- 
forms. At  10  o'clock  the  ball  was  opened  by  the  president 
in  person.  He  was  dressed  in  a  richly- embroidered  coat, 
gold  epaulettes,  and  a  field-marshal's  sash.  He  is  a  fine- 
looking  man,  about  fifty  years  of  age.  He  danced  a  minuet 
with  a  lady  of  Valparaiso,  after  which  the  dancing  became 
general,  consisting  of  waltzes,  contra  dances,  quadrilles,  and 
the  sama  cueca.  The  music  was  very  fine,  and  many  marches 
and  national  airs  were  played  during  the  intervals  between 
the  dances.  The  ball  did  not  break  up  until  8  o'clock,  at 
which  hour  the  president  was  escorted  home  by  a  procession 
of  the  dancers.  His  unblemished  private  character,  together 
with  the  success  of  his  policy  toward  the  Peruvian  govern- 
ment, have  rendered  him  extremely  popular  with  all  classes  of 
society. 


64  CALLAO    AND    IJMA. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

CALLAO     AND     LIMA. 

On  the  1st  of  May  we  sailed  for  Callao,  where  we  arrived 
after  a  passage  of  twelve  days.  Nothing  of  interest  occurred 
during  this  period.  The  wind  most  of  the  time  was  favorable, 
and  the  weather  warm  and  pleasant. 

We  found  in  port  the  United  States  ship  "  Lexington/' 
belonging  to  the  Pacific  squadron ;  also  the  Chilian  fleet, 
amounting  to  ten  sail,  commanded  by  Admiral  Blanco,  an 
English  and  a  French  frigate,  and  about  fifty  merchant  ves- 
sels, six  of  which  were  American. 

Callao,  the  seaport  of  Lima,  is  celebrated  for  its  safety  and 
convenience.  The  island  of  St.  Lorenzo  shelters  it  from  the 
swell  of  the  ocean  to  the  west,  and  there  is  no  danger  from 
any  other  direction.  The  Mole  affords  every  facility  for 
landing  goods  from  the  boats.  Water  is  conducted  to  the 
Mole  by  an  aqueduct,  and  a  railway  conveys  the  goods  to  the 
far-famed  fortress,*'  which  is  now  converted  into  a  depot. 
There  are  a  number  of  sentries  stationed  on  the  Mole  night 
and  day  for  the  double  purpose  of  preserving  order  among  the 
boatmen,  and  to  aid  the  custom-house  in  preventing  smuggling, 
which,  notwithstanding,  is  carried  on  to  an  extent  that  is 

♦  It  was  here  that  the  last  stand  of  the  royalist  was  made  in  New  Spain  ;  and  it  was 
in  the  same  castle  that  'the  brave  Rodil,  with  a  handful  of  devoted  followers  defended 
themselves  with  heroic  courage  against  the  insurgents  in  1826.  Surrounded,  but 
not  dismayed,  they  still  kept  their  assailants  at  bay,  until  famine  stalked  before  them, 
and  they  were  forced  to  yield.  History  tells  us  that  horse-meat  sold  among  the  be- 
sieged for  a  gold  ounce  the  pound,  and  a  chicken  for  its  weight  in  the  same  pre. 
cious  metal ! 


CALLAO    AND    LIMA.  55 

hardly  credible.  This  is  effected  by  the  owner  of  the  goods 
bribing  the  custom-house  officials. 

The  town  is  situated  several  miles  from  the  site  of  old 
Callao,*"  and  numbers  about  five  thousand  inhabitants.  It 
has  not  much  to  recommend  it.  The  only  well-built  houses  are 
those  on  the  main  street.  The  churches  and  other  public 
buildings  are  too  insignificant  to  deserve  description. 

The  market  is  held  in  a  large  open  square.  Oranges, 
apples,  figs,  grapes,  granadillas,  and  chirimoyas,  are  abundant 
in  their  season.  Vegetables  of  every  sort  are  also  to  be  had. 
Beef  is  cut  into  small  pieces  to  suit  the  purchasers,  and 
poultry  is  cut  up  in  a  similar  manner ;  the  former  is  killed 
in  the  outskirts  of  the  town,  and  the  hide,  head  and  entrails 
are  left  for  the  buzzards,  which  are  very  numerous  and  pro- 
tected by  law ;  the  rest  of  the  carcase  is  brought  to  market 
on  the  backs  of  donkeys. 

The  inhabitants  are  addicted  to  gambling,  and  pass  most 
of  their  time  at  the  billiard-rooms  and  monte-tables. 

The  old  castle  claimed  our  attention ;  it  covers  a  large  ex- 
tent of  ground,  and  its  walls  are  high  and  very  massive.  One 
of  the  officers  told  us  that  it  was  capable  of  quartering  ten 
thousand  troops.  It  was  once  looked  upon  as  tlie  key  of  the 
country.  Whichever  party  had  it  in  possession,  were  con- 
sidered masters  of  Peru.  As  I  have  already  remarked,  it  is 
now  used  as  a  depot  for  goods,  and  is  nearly  dismantled — only 
five  of  the  guns  remain  out  of  the  140  which  it  mounted ;  the 
metal  of  these  is  brass-,  and  their  proportions  are  beautiful. 
The  garrison  consisted  of  eight  hundred  men.  I  cannot  say 
much  for  their  personal  appearance;  they  were  quite  short, 

♦  Old  Callao  was  destroyed  by  the  memorable  earthquake  of  1746,  In  the  seme 
earthquake  a  first-class  frigate,  lying  in  the  harbor,  was  lifted  several  hundi'ed  feet 
and  carried  inland  a  considerable  distance,  where  a  monument  was  erected  to  com- 
memorate the  event. 


66  CALI  \.0    AND    LIMA. 


had  an  awkward  gait,  and  dull,  stupid  countenances.  If  they 
are  a  fair  specimen  of  the  soldiers  of  the  country,  it  is  no  won- 
der that  the  Chilians  have  been  able  to  conquer  it  so  easily. 

The  distance  from  Callao  to  Lima  is  about  eight  miles,  and 
stages  run  between  the  two  places  almost  every  hour  in  the 
day  ;  the  fare  is  one  dollar.  The  road  leads  over  a  plain,  but 
it  is  not  kept  in  good  repair,  and  is,  besides,  very  du^ty,  on 
account  of  the  extreme  dryness  of  the  climate.  In  this  part 
of  Peru,  there  are  heavy  dews,  but  no  rain. 

We  had  an  opportunity  of  visiting  the  "  City  of  the  Kings"* 
several  times.  We  went  up  in  the  coaches,  and  always  set  out 
at  an  early  hour,  that  we  might  avoid  the  heat  of  the  sun  and 
the  dust.  During  the  first  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  of  the  ride, 
we  saw  nothing  to  interest  us,  for  we  were  passing  through  the 
filthy  streets  of  Callao,  and  its  still  more  filthy  outskirts.  Of 
all  the  places  we  have  as  yet  visited,  civilized  or  uncivilized, 
Callao  has  been  the  most  filthy  and  disgusting.  When  about 
two  miles  out,  we  passed  Bella  Vista,  which,  ever  since  the 
revolution,  has  been  in  ruins. 

We  next  came  to  the  so-called  half-way  house,  where  tlie 
drivers  invariably  stop  to  rest  the  horses,  and  to  regale  them- 
seves  with  a  glass  of  pisco  from  its  dirty  pulperia.  This  part 
of  the  road  was  formerly  infested  by  banditti,  and  no  one 
thought  of  appearing  on  it  without  being  well  armed  ;  but  now 
this  is  not  necessary,  as  the  police  has  taken  steps  to  disperse 
the  robbers. 

Resuming  our  course,  we  soon  reached  a  section  of  country 

*  The  name  bestowed  on  the  infant  capital  was  Curdad  de  las  Reges,  or  City  of 
Kings,  in  honor  of  the  day,  being  the  6th  of  January,  1535.  the  Festival  of  Epipltany, 
when  it  was  said  to  have  been  founded  by  Pizarro.  But  the  Castilian  nntne  ceased  to  be 
used  even  within  the  fir.=t  generation,  and  was  supplanted  by  that  of  Lima,  into  which 
the  original  Indian  name  was  corrupted  by  the  SpdLuiards.—Frescott's  Conquest  of  Pent, 
vol.  ii. 


LIMA.  67 

laid  out  in  gardens,  filled  with  all  kinds  of  fruit-trees,  shaded 
walks,  lined  on  either  hand  with  stone  seats,  and  intersected 
with  running  streams  of  water.  It  is  the  usual  evening-drive 
of  the  Limineans,  and  a  delightful  one  it  is.  In  a  few  minutes 
more  we  found  ourselves  passing  under  the  great  gate  of  the 
city.  Its  aspect  is  that  of  rapid  decline ;  there  is  no  stir  or 
lif^  among  the  inhabitants  ;  many  of  the  shops  are  closed,  and 
hundreds  of  houses  are  untenanted,  and  in  a  state  of  decay. 
The  streets  are  broad  and  paved,  and  many  of  them  have  a 
stream  of  water  running  through  their  centre.  It  is  not,  how- 
ever, a  clean-looking  city,  for  these  streams  are  used  for  very 
disgusting  purposes,  and  buzzards  are  seen  feeding  all  over 
the  city. 

The  style  of  building  is  well  adapted  to  the  climate  and 
nature  of  the  country.  Most  of  the  dwellings  are  of  two 
stories,  with  a  spacious  court  in  front ;  the  main  object  of 
these  courts,  is  to  afford  the  inhabitants  a  place  of  refuge  when 
the  city  is  threatened  with  earthquakes,  which  is  a  very  fre- 
quent occurrence.  The  material  employed  in  the  construction 
of  the  walls,  is  sun-burnt  brick.  The  roofs  are  perfectly  flat, 
and  the  ground-floor  is  used  as  store-rooms  and  stables. 

The  population  is  estimated  at  40,000.  In  the  time  of  the 
Viceroys,  it  is  said  to  have  been  70,000. 

The  Grand  Plaza  contains  several  acres,  and  should  be 
visited  by  the  stranger,  if  he  wishes  to  form  a  correct  idea  of 
a  life  in  Lima.  From  sunrise  till  sunset  it  is  filled  with 
people.  On  two  sides  of  the  Plaza  stand  the  portales,  or 
arcades,  where  all  kinds  of  dry-goods  and  fancy  articles  are 
sold.  The  cathedral  and  the  arch-bishop's  palace  occupy 
the  east  side  of  the  plaza,  and  that  of  the  viceroy's  the  south 
side ;  this  last  has  now  become  the  residence  of  the  presidents, 
and,  although  it  covers  a  great  extent  of  ground,  there  is 


58  LIMA. 

nothing  very  attractive  in  its  architecture.  The  fountain  in 
the  centre  of  the  plaza  is  a  splendid  piece  of  work,  and  was 
erected,  according  to  the  inscription,  in  1600,  by  Don  Garcia 
Sarmiento  Sotomayer,  the  then  Viceroy,  and  Captain- General 
of  Peru. 

In  this  plaza,  the  Saya  y  Manta,  or  the  peculiar  dress  of 
the  Lima  ladies,  is  seen  to  the  best  advantage.  It  is  certainly 
a  very  bewitching  attire,  for  it  betrays  the  whole  outline  of  the 
female  figure;  neither  does  it  conceal  the  foot  and  ankle, 
which,  when  prettily  shaped,  (and  those  of  the  Liminean  ladies 
are  rarely  otherwise,)  are  a  charming  sight,  especially  to 
bachelors ;  but,  on  the  other  hand,  the  Saya  y  Manta  oiBTers 
strong  inducements  to  carry  on  a  love-intrigue,  and  for  that 
reason  was  once  put  under  the  ban  of  a  legislative  statute.  It 
still  survives,  however,  and  is  worn  by  the  ladies  of  the  best 
families.  It  consists  of  a  kind  of  hood  and  a  petticoat,  both 
usually  made  of  black  satin,  with  numerous  vertical  folds. 
The  manta,  or  upper  garment,  is  fastened  at  the  waist,  and  is 
so  gathered  over  the  head  and  shoulders  as  to  conceal  every 
thing  but  the  right  eye  and  the  right  hand.  The  disguise  is 
so  complete  that  a  husband  may  meet  his  wife  in  the  streets, 
or  any  of  the  public  places,  without  being  able  .to  recognize 
her ;  and  it  is,  no  doubt,  too  true,  that  it  has  been  the  means 
of  destroying  the  peace  and  happiness  of  many  a  Lihiinean 
family.  It  is  asserted  that  the  original  intention  of  this  singu- 
lar costume,  was  to  enable  a  lady  to  go  out  in  the  morning  to 
mass,  or  shopping,  before  she  made  her  toilet. 

The  Almeda  is  extensive  and  handsomely  laid  out.  The 
walks  are  lined  with  rows  of  willows  on  each  side ;  its  centre 
is  ornamented  with  fountains,  and  artificial  streams  of  wJker 
run  parallel  with  the  walks.  Towards  evening  it  is  very 
much  resorted  to  by  the  ladies  and  gentlemen,  and  I  have  seen 


LIMA.  59 

there  some  cf  the  former,  who  were  really  beautiful.  The 
women  of  Lhna  are  usually  handsome,  but  their  minds  are 
neglected,  nor  are  their  morals  what  they  should  be. 

There  are  other  sights  in  Lima  well  worth  seeing ;  among 
the  rest,  the  Convent  of  St.  Francisco,  which  covers  about 
eight  acres  of  ground.  In  former  times  it  must  have  been 
equal  to  anything  of  the  kind  in  the  world.  Its  cloisters 
are  ornamented  with  fountains  and  flower-gardens,  and  the 
chapels  are  rich  in  gilding  and  carved-work.  Part  of  the  con- 
vent is  now  occupied  as  barracks,  and  the  soldiers'  muskets  are 
stacked  on  the  altars  of  several  of  the  chapels.  We  observed 
in  the  church  a  shrine  and  an  image  of  St.  Benedict,  with  a 
jet-black  infant  Saviour  in  his  arms !  There  are  but  few 
Friars  here  at  present,  but  in  the  days  of  its  prosperity  there 
were  four  hundred  connected  with  it,  and  had  an  income  suited 
to  the  easy  and  luxurious  style  in  which  they  lived.  Its  collec- 
tions of  paintings  have  been  highly  spoken  of  by  connoisseurs. 

I  attended  the  theatre  several  times ;  it  is  a  spacious, 
handsome  edifice,  and  seemed  to  be  well  supported,  although 
the  performances  were  of  a  very  ordinary  character.  The 
acting-president,  Lafuente,  was  present  each  time,  dressed  in 
his  uniform ;  but  he  did  not  appear  to  receive  much  attention 
from  the  audience,  and  I  was  subsequently  told  that  he  was 
not  generally  popular  with  the  people,  as  he  was  in  favor  of 
the  Chilians,  and,  in  fact,  owed  his  present  position  to  them. 
He  has  the  Spanish  features,  and  appears  to  be  about  fifty 
years  of  age.  The  ladies  in  the  galleries  wore  the  saya  and 
manto,  and  made  great  display  in  ornaments. 

During  our  stay  in  Lima  there  were  no  bull-baits,  although 
it  is  a  common  and  a  favorite  amusement  with  all  classes  of 
society. 

The  present  state  of  Peru  is  far  from  being  promising,  if 


60  PRESENT    STATE    OF    PERU. 

we  may  be  allowed  to  judge  from  what  we  saw  and  heard  dur- 
ing our  stay  in  the  country.  The  Chilian  army  was  still 
quartered  in  Lima,  at  the  expense  of  its  devoted  inhabitants. 
Public  confidence  was  destroyed,  commerce  at  a  stand,  the 
mines  were  neglected,  the  people  looked  discouraged,  and  war 
with  Bolivia  was  inevitable,  unless  Gamara,  the  present  in- 
cumbent and  usurper,  placed  by  force  in  the  Presidential-chair 
by  the  Chilians,  was  removed.  The  most  uncompromising 
hostility  is  evinced  by  the  Bolivian  government  towards  the 
administration  of  this  president ;  and  we  were  assured,  both 
by  intelligent  natives,  and  foreigners,  that  until  he  shall  be 
banished  from  the  country,  no  reconciliation  of  aifairs  can  take 
place  between  the  two  governments.  The  English,  also,  were 
very  clamorous,  and  threatening  to  sieze  upon  the  revenue  of 
the  country,  if  their  claims  were  not  speedily  attended  to. 
Indeed,  it  seemed  to  have  every  trouble  before  it. 

The  people  are  as  yet  in  infancy  as  regards  self-govern- 
ment. Instead  of  taking  matters  in  their  own  hands,  they 
allow  themselves  to  be  governed  by  a  faction  of  mihtary  men, 
whose  only  desire  is  their  own  self-aggrandizement.  A  few 
months  since  they  met  to  make  some  new  elections,  but  they 
allowed  Gamara  to  overthrow  them,  and  by  force  of  arms 
destroy  their  ballot-boxes  ;  and  nothing  is  more  common  than 
to  hear  of  officers  being  exiled,  and  rich  citizens  stripped  of 
their  wealth,  merely  for  their  political  opinions.  Nor  is  this 
all  : — The  depraved  morals  of  the  church  are  proverbial  in 
Peru ;  and  there  is  scarcely  a  crime  perpetrated,  of  which  its 
members  are  not  guilty.  Even  on  the  Sabbath  the  priests 
may  be  seen  resorting  to  the  tlieatres,  billiard-rooifts  and 
gambling-houses.  The  public  revenue  of  this  fine  country  is 
imposed  in  the  most  oppressive  manner,  and  impoverishes  the 
people  from  whom  it  is  collected.     The  hordes  of  robbers  it 


LOSS    OF    THE    SEA-GULL.  61 

nourished  during  the  revolutionary  war,  still  continue  to  annoy 
its  peace;  and  there  is,  perhaps,  no  country  in  the  world 
where  murder  and  robbery  are  so  prevalent.  Until  a  better 
state  of  things  be  brought  about,  its  improvement  is  hopeless. 

On  the  11th  of  June,  the  "  Porpoise"  arrived  from  Val- 
paraiso. She  reported  that  the  "  Vincennes,"  "  Peacock,'' 
and  "  Flying  Fish,"  were  to  have  followed  her  in  a  few  days. 
As  for  the  "  Sea-Gull,"  she  had  not  been  seen  or  heard  from 
since  the  time  she  was  separated  from  the  "  Flying  Fish"  in  a 
storm  oiF  Cape  Horn. 

On  the  19th,  the  "  Peacock"  arrived,  and  the  United  States 
ship  "Lexington"  sailed  for  the  coast  of  California.  The 
following  report  was  now  very  current,  namely,  that  as  soon 
as  the  "  Vincennes"  arrived,  this  ship  would  be  detached  from 
the  squadron,  and  ordered  to  return  home. 

June  20th,  the  "  Vincennes"  made  her  appearance,  and 
anchored  near  us.  We  understood  she  left  Lieut.  Thomas 
Craven  at  Valparaiso,  with  orders  that  if  the  "Sea-Gull"* 
did  not  arrive  there  by  a  certain  time,  to  charter  a  vessel  and 
go  in  search  of  her.  It  was  the  opinion  of  many  of  the  officers 
that  she  was  lost. 

On  the  21st,  I  received  orders  to  report  for  duty  on  board 
the  "Peacock,"  it  having  been  decided  that  the  "Relief" 
should  return  to  the  United  States,  after  taking  a  cargo  of 
stores  for  the  expedition,  to  Sydney,  New  South  Wales. 

♦  She  did  not  arrive  at  Valparaiso  at  the  appointed  time,  and   Lieutenant  Craven 
acted  agreeably  tn  his  orders  ;  but  he  could  neither  find  or  hear  anything  of  her. 


Q  ryv\ 


62  ISLAND    OF    CALERMONT    TONNERRE. 


CHAPTER  V. 

FROM    CALLAO    TO    SOCIETY    ISLANDS. 

At  5.30  P.  M.,  July  ISth,  we  quitted  Callao,  with  a  light 
breeze  from  the  southward  and  westward,  "  Vincennes,"  "  Por- 
poise," and  "  Flying  Fish,"  in  company. 

The  day  following,  it  being  Sunday,  Mr.  Elliot,  the  chaplain 
of  the  "  Vincennes,"  came  on  board  and  performed  divine 
service. 

August  5th.  During  this  day  the  heat  was  exceedingly 
oppressive,  although  the  thermometer  did  not  at  any  time 
stand  higher  than  80°.  In  the  evening  zodiacal  lights  were 
visible  until  half-past  eight.  In  the  course  of  the  night  many 
meteors  were  observed,  some  of  which  were  remarkable  for 
their  brilliancy.  At  meridian,  the  latitude  was  18°  08'  30 
south,  and  longitude  122°  25'  45''  west. 

August  13th.  At  1.30  P.  M.,  made  the  Island  of  Caler- 
mont  de  Tonnerre,  bearing  west-by-south  half-south,  and 
distant  about  six  miles. 

At  first  sight  the  island  appeared  like  a  forest  growing  in 
the  middle  of  the  ocean,  so  low  is  the  land.     It  is  of  coral* 

*  The  collective  labors  of  united  lithophytes  raise  their  cellular  dwellings  on  the 
crust  of  submarine  mountains,  until  after  thousands  of  years  the  structure  reaches 
the  level  of  the  ocean,  when  the  animals  which  have  formed  it  die,  leaving  a  low, 
flat  coral  island.  How  are  the  seeds  of  plants  brought  so  immediately  to  tjiese  new 
shores  ? — by  wandering  birds,  or  by  the  winds  and  waves  of  the  ocean  ?  The  distance 
from  other  coasts  makes  it  difficult  to  determine  this  question  ;  but  no  sooner  is  the 
newly  raised  islands  in  direct  contact  with  the  atmosphere,  than  there  i5  formed  on 
its  surface,  in  our  northern  countries,  a  soft,  silky  net-work,  appearing  to  the  naked 
eye  as  colored  spots  and  patches.    Some  of  these  patches  are  bordered  by  single  or 


PAUMATO    GROUP.  63 


formation,  with  an  extensive  lagoon*  in  the  centre,  and  is 
encircled  by  reefs  and  rocks,  against  which  the  surf  beats 
with  great  violence.  At  5  A.  M.,  tried  the  current,  and 
found  it  setting  north-west-by-west  half-west,  one  fathom  per 
hour.  Wishing  to  survey  the  island,  we  "  lay-to''  during  the 
night. 

August  14th  and  15th.  At  early  daylight  made  all  sail  and 
stood  for  the  island  we  discovered  yesterday,  and  by  10  A.  M. 
were  so  near  it  that  we  could  distinguish  with  the  naked  eye 
the  natives  standing  on  the  beach.  These  savages  walked 
about  in  groups,  and  appeared  to  be  armed.  At  11  A.  M., 
we  proceeded  with  the  rest  of  the  squadron  to  take  our  station 
for  surveying.  In  the  afternoon  several  of  the  "  Vincennes'' 
boats  effected  a  landing,  but  were  not  very  courteously  received 
by  the  natives.  They  assembled  in  considerable  numbers  on 
the  beach,  and  commanded  our  people  to  return  to  the  ships. 

double  raised  lines  running  round  the  margins  ;  other  patches  are  crossed  by  similar 
lines  traversing  them  in  various  directions.  Gradually  the  light  color  of  the  patches 
becomes  darker,  the  bright  yellow  which  was  visible  at  a  distance  changes  to  brown, 
and  the  bluish-gray  of  the  le})raides  becomes  a  dusty  black.  The  edges  of  neighbor- 
ing patches  approach  and  run  into  each  other ;  and  on  the  dark  ground  thus  formed 
there  apjiear  other  lichens  of  circular  shape,  and  dazzling  whiteness.  Thus,  an  or- 
ganic film  or  covering,  establishes  itself  by  successive  layers,  and,  as  mankind  in 
forming  settled  communities,  pass  through  different  stages  of  civilization,  so  is  the 
gradual  propagation  and  extension  of  plants  connected  with  determinate  physical 
laws. — Humboldt. 

According  to  another  high  authority,  (Charles  Darwin,)  the  process  of  formation 
is  the  following  : — He  su|)])Oses  a  mountainous  island,  surrounded  by  a  coral  reef,  (a 
fringing  reef  attached  to  the  shore,)  to  undergo  subsidence  ;  the  fringing  reef  which 
subsides  with  the  island  is  continually  restored  to  its  level  by  the  tendency  of  the 
coral-animals  to  regain  the  surface  of  the  sea,  and  becomes  thus,  as  the  island  gradu- 
ally sinks  and  is  reduced  in  size,  first,  an  "encircling  reef,"  at  some  distance  from 
the  'included  islet,  and  subsequently  when  the  latter  has  entirely  disappeared,  an 
atolL  According  to  this  view,  in  which  islands  are  regarded  as  the  calumniating 
points  of  a  submerged  land,  the  relative  po.^itions  of  the  different  coral-islands  would 
disclose  to  us  that  which  we  could  hardly  learn  by  the  sounding-line,  concerning 
the  configuration  of  the  land,  which  was  above  the  surface  of  the  sea  at  an  earlier 
epoch. 

*  Lagoon,  is  the  Spanish  word  for  Lake. 


64  PAUMATO    GROUP. 


Finding  the  order  was  not  heeded,  they  commenced  throwing 
stones  at  the  boats  and  brandishing  their  spears,  nor  could 
they  be  induced  to  desist  until  a  musket  or  two,  loaded  with 
blank  cartridge,  had  been  discharged  at  them.  It  was  re- 
marked that  these  islanders  were  in  general  tall  and  exceed- 
ingly well-formed.  Their  complexion  was  dark-brown,  and 
their  hair  black  and  strait.  The  chiefs  had  their  hair  drawn 
back  and  tied  in  a  knot  behind  ;  the  others  had  theirs  hanging 
loose.  Their  bodies  were  perfectly  naked,  except  around  the 
waist,  to  which  was  fastened  a  small  maro  made  of  leaves. 
No  tattooing  was  observed  upon  either  the  men  or  women. 
The  dress  of  the  latter  consisted  of  a  piece  of  tapa,  large 
enough  to  cover  nearly  the  whole  body. 

The  spear  appeared  to  be  the  only  weapon  which  they 
possessed ;  these  were  from  ten  to  fifteen  feet  long,  and 
pointed  at  both  ends.  They  understood  and  spoke  the  Ta- 
hitian  dialect. 

Throughout  the  night  we  observed  a  large  number  of  fires 
burning  on  the  beach,  which  we  concluded  were  alarm-fires. 

August  16th.  At  9  A.  M.,  filled  away,  and  steered  for 
Serle  Island,  and  by  noon  came  up  with  it,  and  commenced 
surveying  operations.  This  ship  had  no  communication  with  the 
island,  but  the  other  vessels  had,  and  from  them  we  learn  that 
it  has  a  few  inhabitants,  and  that  they  are  of  a  more  friendly 
disposition  than  those  found  on  Calermont  de  Tonnerre. 

The  island,  according  to  our  survey,  is  seven  miles  long  and 
one  and  a  quarter  in  width.  It  is  situated  about  twenty-five 
miles  to  the  northward  and  westward  of  Calermont  de  Ton- 
nerre, and  both  its  formation  and  vegetation  are  similar  to 
that  island. 

August  19th.  This  afternoon  made  Homden,  or  Dog 
Island;  landed,  and  found  it  covered  with  trees  and  shrub- 


PAUMATO    GROUP.  65 


bery,  and  abounding  in  turtles  and  birds — the  latter  being  so 
tame  that  they  allowed  themselves  to  be  caught  by  the  hand ; 
the  most  conspicuous  among  them  was  the  frigate-bird. 
They  were  seen  as  they  flew  oft*  inflating  their  huge  pouches, 
and  looking  as  if  they  had  a  large  bladder  attached  to  their 
necks.  Immense  quantities  of  fish  were  also  found  in  the 
lagoon  ;  but  human  beings  there  were  none,  or  even  the  traces 
of  any  ;  neither  the  remains  of  huts,  nor  canoes,  nor  marks  of 
fire,  were  anywhere  visible.  There  were  a  great  many  sharks 
both  in  the  lagoon  and  outside,  and  they  were  so  ravenous  as 
to  bite  at  the  oars  of  the  boats. 

Large  and  valuable  collections  were  made  in  all  the 
scientific  departments.  Some  beautiful  specimens  of  coral 
were  procured  here. 

Our  observations  placed  the  island  in  latitude  14°  56'  00'' 
south,  and  longitude  138°  48'  00"  west. 

August  23d.  In  the  morning  the  barometer  began  to  fall 
rapidly,  the  horizon  lowered  to  the  southward  and  eastward, 
and  soon  after  the  wind  blew  with  such  violence  as  to  compel 
us  to  close-reef  the  topsails.  Towards  noon  we  discovered 
Disappointment  Islands  on  the  lee  bow,  and  in  the  course  of 
the  day  frequently  observed  the  natives  standing  on  the  beach 
and  cautiously  watching  our  movements. 

These  islands  are  two  in  number,  called  Wytoohee  and 
Otoohoo,  and  were  discovered  in  1765.  They  trended  nearly 
east  and  west,  and  are  bounded  by  reefs  and  rocks.  They 
are  well  covered  with  trees  of  the  cocoa-nut  and  pandanus 
kinds. 

About  sunset,  saw  a  canoe  pulling  along  the  shore. 

Lay-to  during  the  night,  in  order  to  survey  the  islands  next 
day. 

August  24th  and  25th.     At  early  daylight  made  all  sail, 


66  PAUMATO    GROUP. 


and  stood  in  for  the  land.  At  10  A.  M.,  nine  canoes, 
from  two  to  three  natives  in  each,  came  oiF  to  the  ship.  They 
approached  near  enough  to  seize  the  ropes  we  threw  them  to 
hold  on  by,  but  declined  coming  on  board.  They  were  very 
gay  and  talkative,  and  ever}  few  minutes  would  entertain  us 
with  a  song  which  we  supposed  to  have  been  made  up  for  the 
occasion,  and  to  have  an  allusion  to  our  coming  among  them. 

They  were  a  good-sized  people,  with  dark-brown  complexions, 
and  lively,  interesting  countenances.  Their  hair  was  black 
and  a  little  curly.  Some  had  beards  and  a  moustache. 
Their  dress  consisted  of  a  piece  of  matting  fastened  to  the 
waist. 

We  very  much  admired  their  canoes  ;  they  were  beautifully 
shaped,  and  so  ingeniously  put  together  that  it  was  some  time 
before  we  were  able  to  determine  whether  they  were  formed 
of  several  pieces  or  one  entire  piece.  They  were  made  of  a 
number  of  pieces  of  cocoa-nut  wood  sewed  together  with  bark, 
and  each  was  furnished  with  an  out-rigger.  The  paddles  were 
from  three  to  four  feet  long,  and  the  blade  on  one  side  was  a 
little  curved. 

These  natives  knew  the  use  of  iron,  and  coveted  its  posses- 
sion so  much,  that  even  when  we  had  our  eyes  upon  them 
they  tried  to  steal  all  that  came  within  their  reach  ;  two  men 
were  seen  twisting  and  pulling  away  at  the  main-chain  plates, 
while  others  tried  to  draw  the  bolts  out  of  the  ship's  side. 

Their  weapons  were  spears  and  clubs,  several  of  which  were 
purchased  for  the  government.  In  the  bows  of  several  of  tlie 
canoes  were  some  species  of  shell-fish,  which  were  intended  as 
food. 

Towards  noon  the  canoes  returned  to  the  shore,  and  we 
proceeded  to  ply  to  windward,  in  order  to  take  our  station 
for  surveying. 


PAUMATO    GROUP.  67 


When  this  was  finished,  several  of  the  scientific  gentlemen 
visited  the  largest  of  the  islands — Wytoohee.  They  had  not 
been  landed  long  when  they  encountered  seven  of  the  inha- 
bitants. These  at  first  received  them  with  an  air  of  respect, 
blended  with  fear ;  but  when  they  were  made  to  understand 
that  they  had  nothing  to  apprehend,  they  smiled,  rubbed  noses* 
with  the  gentlemen,  and  then  invited  them  to  their  huts. 
'Therf  they  spread  mats  for  them  to  sit  on,  and  treated  them 
with  the  milk  of  the  fresh  cocoa-nut,  which  they  found  to  be 
.delicious. 

No  women  or  children  were  seen,  and  the  gentlemen  sup- 
posed they  had  been  sent  off  by  the  men. 

They  were  highly  pleased  with  a  chisel  and  some  pieces  of 
iron  that  wtyre  given  them.  Their  huts  were  inferior  to  those 
seen  about  Cape  Horn,  and  their  baskets  and  other  articles 
were  suspended  on  the  trees. 

The  scientific  gentlemen  having  returned,  we  resumed  our 
course. 

Aug.  29th.  This  morning  we  made  an  island  a-head,  which 
is  not  marked  on  any  of  the  charts  ;  considered  it  a  new 
discovery,  and  named  it  after  the  man  who  first  reported  it  in 
sight — King. 

In  the  afternoon.  Captains  Wilkes  and  Hudson,  and  Lieu- 
tenant Emmons  and  myself,  efiected  a^  landing  on  the  western 
side  of  the  island.  Near  the  beach  we  found  the  remains  of 
two  huts  and  a  canoe.  Further  on  we  saw  some  fish-bones 
and  a  large  heap  of  cocoa-nut  shells,  and  also  a  piece  of  a 
fishing-net.  Proceeding  then  in  a  southeast  direction,  we  soon 
came  to  a  lagoon,  upon  the  shores  of  which  we  found  a  raft 
and  a  large  quantity  of  cocoa-nuts — som3  of  which,  as  might 
be  supposed,   we  eagerly  enough  took  possession  of.     The 

*  This  is  the  usual  mode  of  salutedon. 


68  PAUMATO    GROUP. 


lagoon  was  several  miles  in  circumference,  and,  like  all  those 
we  had  seen  before,  abounded  in  curious  fish. 

As  it  was  already  late  in  the  day,  and  the  ships  "  laying- 
to  "  a  considerable  distance  from  our  boats,  we  did  not  deem 
it  prudent  to  continue  the  examination.  We  were,  however, 
perfectly  satisfied  the  island  was  uninhabited,  except  by  birds, 
turtles,  and  rats,  and  that  the  huts  we  found  near  the  beach 
had  been  erected  by  the  men  of  some  vessel  engaged  in  the 
pearl  fishery.* 

Though  the  soil  was  light,  there  was  no  want  of  vegetation. 
The  cocoa-nut,  pandanus,  and  other  subjects  of  the  vege- 
table kingdom,  grew  in  the  greatest  abundance  in  all  parts  of 
the  island.  Fresh  water,  however,  wf  saw  none,  except  here 
and  there  in  pools.  The  shells  found  on  the  beach  were  the 
turbo,  volutis,  venus,  and  the  pearl  oyster. 

At  the  distance  of  two  hundred  yards  from  the  shore  we 
could  find  no  bottom  with  the  hand-lead  ;  boats  may  approach 
very  near  the  beach.  Harbors  there  are  none.  The  whole 
island  is  of  coral  formation,  and  our  observations  placed  it 
in  latitude  15°  44'  00''  south,  and  longitude  14°  45'  15" 
west. 

August  30th.  During  this  day  we  had  frequent  showers 
of  rain.  At  6  A.  M.,  when  King's  Island  bore  northeast, 
descried  land  bearing  southwest — steered  for  it ;  it  proved  to 
be  the  Island  of  Raraka.  This  island  is  very  narrow,  and 
higher  than  any  we  have  yet  seen.  There  are  a  few  transient 
inhabitants  on  it,  left  by  an  English  schooner  in  quest  of 
pearls — one  of  them  is  a  white  man,  the  others  are  natives, 
of  Tahati.     In  other  respects  it  so  much  resembles  the  island 

♦  The  vessels  engaged  in  this  fishery  belong  to  foreigners  who  reside  at  Tahiti.  The 
mode  of  taking  the  oysters  is  by  natives,  who  are  employed  as  divers  for  a  small  com- 
pensation. 


PAUMATO    GROUP.  69 


we  discovered  yesterday  as  to  render  any  further  description 
unnecessary. 

We  made  the  Tahitians  several  presents,  and  they  in 
return  gave  us  some  hooks  made  of  mother-of-pearl. 

We  observed  on  the  beach  two  double  canoes.  Found  the 
position  of  the  island  to  be,  latitude  16°  03'  00''  south,  longi- 
tude 145°  03'  00"  west. 

August  31st.  We  had  scarcely  quitted  Raraka  when 
another  island  was  descried  to  the  northward  and  westward, 
which  was  not  laid  down  on  the  charts.  It  is  very  long  and 
narrow.  In  some  places  it  is  well  clothed  with  trees  and 
other  subjects  of  the  vegetable  kingdom;  in  others  it  is 
entirely  naked.  This  is  particularly  the  case  towards  the 
northward  and  westward,  where  it  is  so  low  that  the  sea 
washes  over  it  and  forms  large  pools.  Here  and  there  on  the 
beach  we  observed  large  detached  pieces  of  coral,  some  of  a 
square  shape,  others  round,  and  of  a  color  nearly  black. 

This  island  is  destitute  of  harbors.  The  lagoon  was 
very  extensive  and  apparently  deep,  and  as  far  as  the 
eye  could  reach  appeared  entirely  free  from  banks  and 
rocks. 

Noodies  and  Curlews  were  the  only  kind  of  inhabitants  we 
found  on  the  island.  Not  a  human  being  was  seen  anywhere, 
or  even  the  traces  of  any. 

We  named  the  island  Vincennes.  It  is  situated  in  latitude 
16°  08'  04"  south,  and  longitude  144°  59'  45"  west. 

September  3d.  Having  finished  the  survey  of  Vincennes 
Island,  we  stood  for  Karlshoif's  Island,  discovered  by  the  Rus- 
sians. As  we  approached  we  perceived  the  natives  making 
signals  to  us  to  land,  which  invitation  we  accepted.  They 
received  us  kindly,  inviting  us  to  their  huts,  and  doing  all  in 
their  power  to  render  our  stay  agreeable.     They  informed  us 


70  PAUMATO    GROUP. 


that  they  emigrated  from  the  Chain  Islands.*  Their  houses 
are  little  better  than  sheds,  but  kept  very  clean ;  the  furni- 
ture consisted  of  some  mats,  which  were  spread  over  the  floor, 
some  half-dozen  glass  bottles,  and  a  calabash  or  two,  in  which 
they  keep  their  water. 

We  obtained  from  them  several  pigs,  some  cocoa-nuts,  and 
a  few  shells.  Of  all  the  articles  we  offered  them,  they  gave  a 
decided  preference  to  calico,  tobacco,  and  knives.  Looking- 
glasses,  beads,  and  such  like  trinkets,  they  would  scarcely 
receive.  On  taking  leave  of  our  friends,  we  took  a  short  walk 
into  the  interior  of  the  island.  It  is  well  covered  with  trees, 
among  which  the  cocoa-nut  makes  a  conspicuous  appearance. 
The  lagoon  is  several  miles  in  circumference,  and  is  well 
stored  with  fish,  which  constitutes  the  principal  food  of  the 
inhabitants. 

September  6th.  At  an  early  hour  commenced  surveying 
Waterland.  This  island  was  discovered  by  the  Dutch,  and 
is  situated  in  latitude  14°  26'  65''  south,  and  longitude 
146°  12'  00"  west.  It  is  covered  with  luxuriant  vegetation, 
and  has  an  extensive  lagoon. 

In  the  afternoon  we  landed  on  the  western  side,  and  took  a 
series  of  observations  on  the  dipping-needle.  Four  men  were 
the  only  natives  we  saw  here ;  they  very  much  resembled 
those  we  found  at  Raraka. 

One  of  the  boats  remained  ashore  a  long  time  after  the 
signal  for  her  return  was  made.  The  officer  in  charge  gave 
as  the  cause  for  this,  that  he  discovered  that  one  of  the 
crew  was  missing,  and  he  was  waiting  for  him  to  return. 
Some  supposed  that  the  man  strayed  from  the  boat,  but  I  am 
of  the  opinion  that  he  deserted.     His  name  is  Penny — has 

♦  These  islands  are  under  the  government  of  Tahiti.  The  inhabitants  were  for- 
merly cannibals  ;  but  now  missionaries  are  established  among  them,  and  they  have 
made  many  advances  in  civilization. 


PAUMATO    GROUP.  71 


been  much  among  the  islands  engaged  in  the  pearl-fishery, 
and  speaks  the  Tahitian  language  well. 

September  7th.  During  this  day  we  surveyed  and  examined 
another  island,  not  down  on  the  charts.  We  found  it  pretty 
much  the  same  as  the  rest,  with  no  inhabitants,  but  bearing 
evident  marks  of  its  being  recently  visited  by  pearl-fishermen. 
The  lagoon  terminates  within  a  few  yards  of  the  sea- shore, 
and  is  so  shallow  that  it  can  be  forded.  Numbers  of  cocoa- 
nut  trees  were  found  growing  on  the  margin. 

Captain  Wilkes,  with  several  of  the  Vincennes  officers, 
landed  here  to  observe  the  eclipse  of  the  sun,  just  as  we  got 
into  our  boat  to  return  to  the  ship.  We  named  the  island 
after  our  ship — Peacock.  It  is  situated  in  latitude  14°  32'  00'' 
south,  and  longitude  146°  20'  45"  west. 

September  8th.  At  7  A.  M.  made  Rurick  Island,  dis- 
covered by  Captain  Kotzbue,  of  the  Russian  service.  Soon 
after  sent  two  boats  to  examine  it,  but  only  one  succeeded  in 
effecting  a  landing,  on  account  of  the  violence  of  the  surf. 
The  place  was  a  small  cove,  round  the  shores  of  which  were  a 
number  of  houses,  and  hard  by  a  fine  cocoa-nut  grove.  No 
people  were  to  be  found  in  any  of  these  houses,  but  the  other 
boat  saw  plenty  along  the  beach ;  they  appeared  to  be  a  mild, 
inoffensive  people.     No  arms  were  seen  about  them. 

September  9th.  During  these  twenty-four  hours  we  made 
a  flying  survey  of  Dean's  Island.  Judging  from  appearances, 
(for  the  weather  would  not  permit  our  leaving  the  ship,)  the 
character  of  this  island  is  similar  to  those  which  have  been 
already  described. 

We  are  now  clear  of  the  Coral  Islands,  and  really  we  are 
glad  of  it.  They  soon  ceased  to  interest  us ;  nay,  towards  the 
last  we  almost  sickened  at  the  very  sight  of  them ;  they  all 
seemed  to  us  alike.     In  vain  did  we  look  for  a  change  or 


72  ISLAND    OF    AURORA. 

variety;    they  invariably   presented   the   same   uniform   ap- 
pearance, the  same  uniform  flatness,  the  same  scenery. 

September  10th.  This  morning  we  found  ourselves  in  sight 
of  the  island  of  Aurora.  In  many  places  the  coast  of  this 
island  rises  abruptly  and  precipitately  from  the  sea  to  the 
height  of  six  or  seven  hundred  feet ;  the  interior  is  diversified 
with  hill  and  dale,  thus  forming  a  pleasing  contrast  to  the  dull 
and  monotonous  scenes  we  had  been  accustomed  to  for  some 
time  past.  The  soil  in  the  valleys  is  fertile,  and  produces 
abundance  of  sweet  potatoes,  yams,  and  tarro,  as  also  several 
kinds  of  fruit. 

The  inhabitants  are  of  a  Tahitian  extraction,  and  like 
them  have  embraced  Christianity,  and  established  schools. 
All  the  men  we  saw,  and  most  of  the  women,  were  tattooed. 
In  trading  with  them,  we  found  that  they  preferred  old  clothes 
and  cotton-stuffs  to  anything  else.  They  took  us  for  mis- 
sionaries at  first,  and  I  believe  that  many  of  them  are  of  that 
opinion  still,  a  circumstance  which  shows  that  their  intercourse 
with  the  whites  has  been  confined  to  that  class  of  men.  In- 
deed, this  can  never  be  very  extensive,  as  the  island  affords  no 
harbors. 

When  the  boats  which  had  been  sent  ashore  to  take  some 
observations,  returned,  we  made  all  sail  again,  and  stood  for 
Tahiti. 

A, 

**  Huzza  for  Otaheite !  was  the  cry, 
As  stately  swept  the  gallant  vessel*  by ; 
The  breeze  springs  up,  the  lately  flapping-sail 
Extends  its  arch  before  the  growing  gale." 


ARRIVAL    AT   TAHITI,  73 


CHAPTER  VI. 

FROM    ARRIVAL    AT    TAHITI    TO    DEPARTURE    FOR    TUTUILLA, 

At  5  P.  M.,  September  I2th5  we  at  length  reached  Tahiti, 
and  anchored  in  JVlatavai  Bay,  in  fourteen  fathoms  water. 
The  shores  of  this  island,  as  far  as  we  could  see,  were  well 
clothed  with  the  tropical  trees  peculiar  to  Polynesia,  but  the 
interior  appeared  very  uneven,  and  was  almost  destitute  of 
other  vegetation  than  that  of  grasses.  Many  of  these  hills  are 
very  curiously  shaped — some  are  conical,  some  pyramidal, 
others  castellated. 

A  coral-reef,  with  occasional  openings,  surrounds  the  island. 
Between  this  and  the  shore  there  is  a  continuous  channel  for 
boat-navigation,  and  on  the  northern  side  there  are  many  safe 
and  commodious  harbors  for  large  vessels. 

The  fertile  portion  of  the  island  lies  in  the  valleys,  and  in 
the  plain  which  extends  from  the  sea-shore  to  the  base  of  the 
mountains.  These  produce  tropical  plants  in  great  abunda,nce 
and  luxuriance,  and  are  well  watered. 

The  cottages  of  the  natives  are  to  be  found  in  retired  and 
beautiful  spots.  They  are  indolent,  but  are  mild  and  amiable 
people. 

We  had  no  sooner  let-go  the  anchor  than  we  were  environed 
with  canoes,  laden  with  poultry,  pigs,  tarro,  yams,  bananas, 
cocoa-nuts,  via  apples  and  oranges.  Yet,  notwithstanding 
this  profusion,  we  found  everything  very  dear.  There  were 
from  two  to  three  men  in  each  canoe,  few  only  had  any  women 


74  ISLAND    OF    TAHITI. 


in  them,  and  these,  if  we  may  be  allowed  to  judge  from  their 
behavior,  were  not  the  most  chaste.  They  wore  a  loose 
dress  resembling  a  night-gown,  and  had  their  hair  decorated 
with  a  profusion  of  flowers.  The  Tahitian  women  are  very 
fond  of  flowers,  but  the  use  of  them  in  dress  has  been  dis- 
couraged by  the  resident  missionaries,  who  have  declared  that 
such  vanities  are  unbecoming  Christians.  Consequently,  when 
tliey  are  to  appear  before  their  teachers,  they  dispense  with 
this  simple  and  harmless  ornament. 

The  governor  of  the  district  of  Matavai,  Taua,  called  on 
us  at  an  early  moment.  He  came  alongside  in  a  whale-boat, 
and  it  was  soon  found  that  his  visit  was  not  one  of  mere  cere- 
mony, but  was  intended  to  engage  our  washing,  a  business 
which  is  monopolized  by  the  chiefs.  He  is  a  large,  fine-looking 
man,  about  45  years  of  age.  He  was  dressed  in  a  striped 
cotton-shirt,  nankeen  pantaloons,  and  a  round  jacket  of  blue 
cloth.  He  has  a  large  establishment  near  Point  Venus,  and 
he  invited  the  officers  to  come  there  whenever  they  visited  the 
shore. 

About  dusk  some  dozen  women,  of  a  character  similar  to 

those  above  alluded  to,  came  alongside,  and  applied  for  per- 
mission to  come  on  board,  but  finding  their  request  could  not 
be  granted  they  returned  to  the  shore  again.  Several  of  these 
females  were  certainly  not  more  than  twelve  or  thirteen  years 
of  age.  Were  all  visitors  to  act  in  like  manner,  these  de- 
praved females  would  not  be  so  numerous  as  they  are  at 
present ;  but,  I  regret  to  say,  that  the  opposite  course  is  usu- 
ally pursued.  It  is  due  to  the  missionaries  to  state  such  facts, 
for  they  certainly  add  very  much  to  th^r  other  difiiculties,  in 
trying  to  improve  the  moral  and  religious  condition  of  the 
natives.  Who  will  deny  that  bad  example  may  not  prove 
even  more  potent  than  the  most  wholesome  teachings  ? 


ISLAND   OF   TAHITI*  76 


September  13th.  This  morning  the  sick  were  sent  on 
shore,  where  they  will  have  more  comforts  than  it  is  possible 
for  them  to  receive  on  board  the  ship.  The  climate  here  is 
said  to  be  uncommonly  salubrious,  and  invalids  coming  from 
other  parts  rapidly  recover  their  health. 

After  quarters  we  gave  the  natives  permission  to  come  on 
board  with  their  merchandise.  Some  supposed  this  would 
have  a  tendency  to  make  them  reduce  somewhat  their  exorbi- 
tant prices,  as  it  would  give  rise  to  competition ;  it  however 
produced  no  such  effect.  Among  other  articles  they  brought 
on  board  were  several  kinds  of  shells,  which  we  had  not  seen 
before.  Some  of  them  had  also  pearls  for  sale.  They  pro- 
cure these  when  they  are  employed  by  European  vessels  that 
are  engaged  in  that  trade. 

In  the  afternoon  I  took  a  walk  on  the  road  leading  to  Pa- 
peite,  the  capital  of  the  island,  situated  about  seven  miles  to 
the  westward  of  Matavai.  I  found  the  traveling  exceedingly 
bad,  until  I  reached  what  is  called  "  One-tree  Hill.''  The 
road,  or  rather  path,  difficult  thus  far  from  its  steepness  and 
ruggedness,  was  rendered  infinitely  more  so  by  the  recent  rains. 
In  some  places  it  was  so  slippery  that  I  was  forced  to  make 
use  of  my  hands  as  well  as  feet.  With  the  remainder  of  the 
walk  I  was  highly  delighted.  I  sauntered  along  over  a  broad, 
level  road,  lined  on  either  side  with  groves  of  the  orange  and 
bread-fruit  trees,  sprinkled  with  the  habitations  of  the  natives, 
and  intersected  by  numerous  streamlets.  Indeed,  the  scene 
was  one  of  the  most  beautiful  I  ever  beheld. 

The  houses  were  all  constructed  in  the  primitive  style, 
which  consists  of  an  oval-shaped  roof,  supported  by  round 
sticks,  from  two  to  three  inches  in  diameter,  placed  some  dis- 
tance apart,  so  as  to  allow  a  free  admission  of  air.  Neat 
grass  paths,  fringed  with  flowers,  from  the  pure  white  to  the 


76  ISLAND    OF   TAHITI. 


bright  red  and  yellow,  and  filling  the  air  with  their  sweet 
odors,  lead  from  one  house  to  the  other  through  the  groves, 
while  the  surrounding  trees  were  literally  alive  with  songsters 
of  every  plumage  imaginable. 

I  entered  several  of  the  dwellings,  and  was  received  by  the 
inmates  in  the  kindest  manner.  They  treated  me  with  the 
milk  of  the  fresh  cocoa-nut  and  several  varieties  of  fruits. 
I  did  not  see  any  cultivated  land  besides  the  little  patches 
attached  to  each  house ;  these  were  planted  with  sweet  pota- 
toes, yams,  and  tarro. 

On  returning  I  called  in  at  our  observatory,  erected  on  Point 
Venus.*  There  were  great  numbers  of  men  and  women 
assembled  around  it — the  latter  dressed  in  their  best,  and  evi- 
dently come  to  see  and  to  be  seen.  Though  many  of  them 
were  young,  1  observed  none  whose  looks  were  deserving  of 
the  high  encomiums  passed  on  them  by  the  generality  of  for- 
mer voyagers.  There  is  a  kind  of  languor  about  their  eyes 
that  may  be  pleasing  to  some,  and  their  feet  and  hands  are  also 
small,  but  their  figures  are  short,  and  the  features  are  too 
gross  to  be  called  handsome.  A  large  number  had  their  heads 
decorated  with  wreaths  composed  of  Cape  jasmine  and  orange 
flowers. 

September  15th.  It  being  Sunday  to-day,  the  crew  were 
sent  to  the  native  chapel  to  attend  divine  service.  Our  chap- 
lain performed  the  service,  with  the  aid  of  Mr.  Pratt,  one  of 
the  resident  missionaries.  This  chapel  is  oval  in  shape  and 
spacious,  and  plastered,  and  white-washed  on  the  outside  ;  the 
roof  is  made  of  plaited  reeds,  and  covered  with  the  leaves  of 
the  pandanus.      The  windows  are  furnished  with  blinds,  but 

*  It  was  here  that  Captain  Cook  erected  his  Observatory.  It  is  a  low,  narrow 
tongue  of  land  running  out  northward  from  the  island,  and  is  thickly  covered  with 
cocoa-nut  trees. 


ISLAND    OF   TAHITI.  77 


remain  unglazed,  as  free  circulation  of  air  is  here  desirable  at 
all  times.  The  interior  is  well  supplied  with  benches,  ar- 
ranged in  rows,  so  as  to  face  the  pulpit  at  the  side.  There  is 
no  steeple  to  it. 

Near  bj  the  chapel  is  the  residence  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Wil- 
son, the  only  survivor  of  the  missionaries  who  first  came  to  the 
island.  Notwithstanding  his  great  age,  he  continues  to  enjoy 
good  health,  and  to  watch  over  the  spiritual  welfare  of  his 
flock,  which  I  understand  is  large. 

It  is  worthy  of  remark,  that  although  the  day  has  been 
Sunday  with  ns,  it  has  been  Monday  with  the  people  a-shore, 
a  circumstance  to  be  attributed  to  the  first  missionaries  (who 
arrived  here  by  the  way  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope)  not  having 
made  a  proper  allowance  for  the  gain  of  time. 

September  20th.  This  morning  the  "Vincennes"  got 
under- way,  and  ran  up  to  Papeite.  The  females  here  have 
certainly  a  very  great  passion  for  singing.  Every  evening 
they  assemble  in  great  numbers  down  by  the  water-side,  and 
sing  away  for  hours.  Last  night  it  was  2  A.  M.,  ere  they 
ceased.  This  would  be  a  great  annoyance  to  us  were  their 
voices  unmusical,  but  they  are  not.  More  soft,  rich  and  clear 
voices  we  have  never  heard  in  any  part  of  the  world.  Besides, 
they  do  not  confine  themselves  to  their  national  songs,  but 
occasionally,  as  if  they  wished  that  we  should  share  with  them 
in  their  innocent  amusement,  strike  up  some  one  of  our  own 
which  they  have  learned  from  the  whalers,  and  which  seemed 
to  be  as  familiar  to  them  as  to  any  of  us. 

Papiete,  September  24th.  We  arrived  here  a  little  after 
meridian.  When  about  two  miles  from  the  anchorage  of  Ma- 
tavai,  we  passed  two  white-plastered  buildings,  shaded  with  a 
variety  of  trees,  one  of  them,  we  were  informed  by  the  pilot, 
was  the   house  of  the   queen;    the  other,   the  building  in 


78  '  ISLAND    OF    TAHITI. 


which  the  remains  of  the  Kings  Pomare  II.  and  III.  were 
deposited. 

The  next  object  that  attracted  our  attention  was  the  ruins 
of  the  great  chapel  erected  hj  Pomare  II.,  after  his  conversion 
to  Christianity.  The  original  size  of  this  building  is  said  to 
have  been  immense. 

The  anchorage  of  Papiete  is  much  superior  to  that  of  Ma- 
tavai.  There,  when  the  wind  blows  fresh  from  the  seaward, 
vessels  are  exposed  to  a  very  heavy  and  dangerous  swell; 
here  they  lay  perfectly  protected  from  both  sea  and  wind. 
Indeed,  there  is  but  one  objection  to  Papiete  harbor — its 
entrance  is  so  very  narrow,  that  unless  there  be  a  fair  breeze 
it  is  not  accessible. 

The  town  stretches  around  the  curvature  of  the  shore  form- 
ing the  harbor,  and  presents  many  evidences  of  civilization. 
Many  of  the  houses  are  built  in  the  European  style,  and  the 
native  church  is  really  a  fine  building.  Several  of  these 
houses  are  owned  by  natives,  but  they  rarely  occupy  them 
themselves,  as  they  prefer  those  constructed  in  the  primitive 
style,  which,  indeed,  are  better  adapted  to  the  climate  of  the 
island.     They  keep  them  to  rent  out  to  foreigners. 

The  adjacent  country  does  not  differ  materially  from  that 
about  Matavai. 

In  the  centre  of  the  harbor  there  is  a  charming  little  island, 
upon  which  the  Tahitian  national  standard  was  waving  to  the 
breeze  as  we  entered.  This  flag  displays  a  white  star  on  a  red 
field,  and  owes  its  origin  to  the  missionaries.  The  people  here 
promise  to  be  less  troublesome  than  those  were  about  Matavai, 
We  have  seen  but  few  of  them  alongside,  and  none  on  board. 

Soon  after  we  came  to  anchor,  we  received  a  present  from 
the  queen,  consisting  of  pigs,  cocoa-nuts,  bananas,  and  other 
products  of  the  islands. 


ISLAND    OF   TAHITII.  79 

I  understand  that  yesterday  Captain  Wilkes  had  an  inter- 
view with  the  principal  chiefs,  and  succeeded  in  forming  a 
commercial  treaty  with  them,  which  promised  to  be  highly 
advantageous  to  both  nations. 

October  3d.  During  these  past  four  or  five  days  nothing 
remarkable  has  transpired.  This  evening  some  dozen  natives 
came  on  board,  and  gave  us  one  of  their  old  dances.  After 
they  had  seated  themselves  round  in  a  ring,  they  commenced 
making  a  kind  of  grunt,  or  noise,  made  by  the  throat  and 
nostrils,  accompanied  with  motions  of  the  arms  and  fingers,  by 
throwing  them  about  in  all  directions.  This  they  continued 
for  some  minutes,  when  the  noise  gradually  became  louder  and 
louder,  and  the  gestures  more  violent,  until  at  last  they  wrought 
themselves  to  the  highest  pitch  of  excitement,  and  looked  as  if 
it  was  the  greatest  effort  to  keep  it  up  ;  every  blood-vessel  was 
much  swollen,  and  the  perspiration  ran  in  streams  down  tlieir 
faces.  At  this  time  two  of  the  party  sprung  up  into  the 
middle  of  the  ring  and  began  dancing,  and  making  all  sorts  of 
grimaces  and  most  violent  licentious  motions  of  the  body ; 
the  noise  still  increasing,  all  the  others  rose  up  in  the  same 
manner.  It  now  appeared  to  have  attained  its  highest  pitch  ; 
it  became  by  degrees  less  and  less,  until  it  almost  died  away, 
when  they  kicked  up  their  heels  and  fell  on  deck,  which  was 
the  signal  that  they  had  finished. 

October  6th.  This  afternoon  Pomare  Taire,  or  the  kiriri:- 
consort,  arrived  from  Eimeo,  where  he  has  been  residing  for 
some  time  past.     He  came  in  a  small  fore-and-aft  schooner. 

When  Pomare  III.,  only  surviving  son  of  Pomare  II.,  died,  , 
he  was  succeeded,  in  the  supreme  authority  of  the  islands  of 
Tahiti,  Eimeo,  &c.,  &c.,  by  the  present  queen,  under  the  style 
of  Pomare  Vahina  IV.  of  Tahiti.^     She  is  about  28  years  of 

*  The  Crown  is  hereditary — descending  either  to  males  or  females. 


80  ISLAND    01    TAHITI. 


age,  and  has  been  twice  married — the  first  time  to  a  young 
chief  of  Taha,  from  whom  she  was  divorced.  She  was  mar- 
ried to  her  present  husband  about  two  years  since,  and  thus 
far  the  union  has  proved  a  happy  one.  She  has  several  chil- 
dren, one  of  whom  is  a  son.  I  have  been  informed  that  she 
possesses  many  excellent  qualities,  and  is  much  beloved  by  her 
people. 

October  7th.  This  morning  the  king-consort  and  Mr. 
Pritchard,  H.  B.  M.  consul,  came  on  board,  and  breakfasted 
with  Captain  Hudson.  The  king  is  probably  28  years  of  age, 
well  formed,  and  rather  good-looking.  His  dress  showed  no 
evidence  of  his  rank ;  it  consisted  of  a  calico  shirt,  brown  drill- 
ing pantaloons,  a  black  bombazine  jacket,  and  straw  hat.  He 
wore  no  stockings,  and  his  shoes  were  old  and  patched,  which 
induced  our  good  purser  to  make  him  a  present  of  a  new  pair. 
When  breakfast  was  over,  he  went  round  to  look  at  the  ship, 
with  which  he  appeared  much  pleased. 

Mr.  Pritchard  was  formerly  connected  with  the  mission. 
His  house  is  decidedly  the  best  I  have  seen  on  the  island ;  he 
owns  large  tracts  of  land,  and  he  is  said  to  exercise  much 
influence  over  the  queen  and  the  government.* 

At  10  o'clock  the  king  left  the  ship,  accompanied  by 
Captain  Hudson. 

♦  The  Government  is  a  Constitutional  Monarchy     Tahiti  now  belongs  to  the  French. 


ARRIVAL    AT    TUTUILLA.  81 


CHAPTER  VII. 

FROM    TUTUILLA    TO    AUSTRALIA,    OR    NEW   SOUTH    WALES. 

At  9  p.  M.,  October  10th,  we  bade  adieu  to  Tahiti,  and 
steered  to  the  westward. 

On  the  18th  we  descried  land,  bearing  northwest,  which 
proved  to  be  Tutuilla,  one  of  the  Samoan,  or  Navigator 
Islands.  At  meridian  kept  away  for  it,  and  shortly  after- 
ward anchored  in  the  harbor  of  Pango-Pango.  We  had  no 
difficulty  in  entering  this  port.  The  principal  danger  is  a 
large  rock,  which  is  situated  near  the  middle  of  the  passage ; 
but  is-easily  seen,  as  the  surf  breaks  upon  it  at  all  times. 

It  is  a  beautiful  harbor ;  the  land  all  around  rises  abruptly, 
some  places  perpendicularly  from  the  water  to  the  height 
of  a  thousand  feet  or  more,  and  everywhere  it  is  covered 
with  the  most  luxuriant  vegetation ;  even  the  rocks  are  covered 
with  festoons  of  creeping-plants.  It  likewise  abounds  in  fresh 
water ;  several  fine  streams  are  visible  from  our  decks. 

The  shores  are  thickly  studded  with  houses,  and  they  differ 
materially  in  shape  and  construction  from  any  we  have  before 
seen.  They  are  circular  in  form,  with  a  high  conical  roof 
coming  down  to  about  five  feet  from  the  ground — the  space 
between  the  eves  and  the  ground  being  shut  in  by  mats,  which, 
when  the  weather  is  pleasant,  are  rolled  back,  and  thus  the 
fresh  breeze  circulates  through  every  part  of  the  dwelling. 

There  are  many  runaway  sailors,  and  some  Botany  Bay 
convicts,  living  on  this  island. 


82  ISLAND    OF    rUTUILLA. 

October  19th.  This  day  we  visited  the  village,  situated  at 
the  head  of  the  bay.  It  contains  about  forty  houses,  all  con- 
structed after  the  manner  before  described,  save  that  of  Mr. 
Murray,  the  resident  missionary.  This  is  built  after  the 
English  cottage-style,  painted  white,  and  surrounded  by  a 
wooden  paling.  The  interior  aspect  of  the  native  buildings 
varies  according  to  the  circumstances  of  the  owner.  If  he  be 
rich,  the  floor  is  covered  with  the  finest  quality  of  mats,  and 
presents  an  air  of  great  neatness  throughout.  If  poor,  the 
floor  remains  uncovered,  and  but  little  attention  is  paid  to 
cleanliness  or  order. 

We  saw  in  the  Council- House  a  war-canoe,  which  was 
capable  of  carrying  fifty  warriors.  It  is  said  that  every  vil- 
lage on  the  island  has  one  of  these  council-houses.  They  are 
the  places  where  the  chiefs  and  other  principal  men  meet  to 
discuss  all  matters  concerning  the  state.  The  one  here  stands 
near  the  landing,  has  a  circular  shape,  and  is  capable  of  con- 
taining several  thousand  people. 

Curiosity  brought  crowds  of  men,  women,  and  children 
around  us.  They  are  not  in  general  as  well-formed  people  as 
the  Tahitians,  and  we  observed  that  very  many  of  them  were 
afflicted  with  ophthalmia  and  elephantiasis.  Their  dress  con- 
sisted of  long,  narrow  leaves,  thickly  strung  on  a  piece  of 
bark,  long  enough  to  tie  round  the  loins.  All  of  them  were 
tattooed,  more  or  less,  about  the  legs  and  arms,  but  ornaments 
they  had  none.  Both  men  and  wojnen  are  fond  of  bathing, 
and  they  spend  much  of  their  tune  in  the  water.  Tliey 
seemed  to  have  no  idea  of  money,  but  set  great  value  on  every- 
thing in  the  way  of  clothing  and  iron  tools.  They  eagerly 
exchanged  their  largest  and  finest-wrought  mats  for  a  hatchet, 
or  a  plain  iron ;  ink  and  paper  were  also  sought  after  by 
some. 


AN    AMERICAN    CITIZEN    MURDERED. 


On  the  afternoon  of  the  20th  we  sailed  for  the  neighbor- 
ing island,  Upolu.  A  few  da.ys  after  the  "  Peacock's"  arrival 
here,  an  American,  named  Terry,  gave  information  against  a 
native,  who  had  murdered  an  American  seaman  that  was  living 
on  the  island  some  twenty  months  before.  Mr.  Baldwin  and 
the  master-at-arms  J  with"  several  marines,  were  immediately 
sent  to  secure  him.  After  looking  for  him  for  some  time,  he 
was  pointed  out  to  Mr.  B.,  who  arrested  him  and  brought 
him  on  board  the  ship,  where  he  was  confined  and  ironed. 
Some  days  afterward  Captain  Hudson  demanded  an  investi- 
gation of  the  matter.  On  the  26th  the  chiefs  assembled  from 
the  different  parts  of  the  island  in  the  Council-House.  The 
missionaries,  Messrs.  Williams  and  Mills,  and  Mr.  Cunning- 
ham, H.  B.  M.  Vice-Consul  for  the  Samoan  Islands,  were 
present,  and  offered  to  act  as  interpreters  during  the  investiga- 
tion between  Captain  Hudson  and  the  chiefs.  The  prisoner 
was  sent  for  on  board  the  ship,  and  brought  before  the  assem- 
bly in  charge  of  an  officer,  and  a  file  of  marines.  He  owned 
that  he  committed  the  murder,  and  assigned  his  reason  for 
doing  it.  He  wanted,  he  said,  to  get  possession  of  the  white 
man's  property.  This  admission  established  the  guilt  of  the 
prisoner,  and  Captain  Hudson  decided  that  he  must  die ;  but 
the  chiefs  expressed  great  repugnance  to  this  punishment,  and 
proposed  buying  him  off  with  mats,  tappa,  &c.,  according  to 
the  Samoan  custom.  Captain  H.  told  them  the  Christian 
custom  was  to  take  life  for  life ;  therefore  they  must  punish 
him  with  death.  After  much  deliberation  the  chiefs  approved 
of  the  sentence,  but  objected  to  its  being  carried  into  execu- 
tion on  shore.  They  again  asserted  that  they  knew  no  such 
laws,  and  strenuously  urged  that  the  criminal  should  be  car- 
ried on  board  the  ship  and  executed  tluTC.  To  this  it  was 
replied  that  the  execution  must  take  place  on  shore,  in  order 


84  ISLAND    OF   UPOLU. 


that  the  people  might  see  what  they  had  to  expect  when  they 
kiljed  an  American  citizen. 

It  was  believed  by  the  officers  of  this  ship  that  the  chiefs 
would  have  finally  complied  with  all  of  Captain  Hudson's  de- 
mands, had  the  "  Vincennes"  kept  out  of  the  way,  but  she 
now  made  her  appearance,  and  upon  its  being  reported  to 
Captain  Wilkes  what  was  going  on,  he  repaired  to  the  Council- 
House,  and  after  holding  a  private  interview  with  Captain 
Hudson,  ordered  the  prisoner  to  be  returned  to  the  "  Peacock,'^ 
at  the  same  time  requesting  Mr.  Mills  to  state  to  the  assembly 
that  the  criminal  would  be  taken  away  from  Upolu,  and  left 
on  some  uninhabited  island. 

Upolu  is  one  of  those  islands  which,  together  with  Savi, 
Tutuilla  and  Manono,  constitute  that  group  of  islands  which 
go  under  the  cognomen  of  "Navigator's  Group."  The  soil 
is,  generally  speaking,  very  fertile,  being  in  most  parts  com- 
posed of  a  dark,  rich  mould,  from  which  spring  spontaneously 
a  strong  luxuriant  vegetation  of  perpetual  verdure.  This 
manifests  itself  in  various  species  of  grass,  shrubbery,  fruit 
trees,  and  forest  timber. 

From  the  location  of  the  island,  almost  in  the  centre  of  the 
tropics,  it  might  be  inferred  that  an  atmosphere  of  very  high 
temperature  must  be  the  necessary  consequence.  Such,  how- 
ever, is  not  the  fact.  Experience  has  shown  that  it  is  more 
temperate  than  many  regions  beyond  the  torrid  zones.  The 
hour  of  greatest  heat  is  about  3  o'clock  P.  M.,  when  the 
thermometer  averages  78°  of  Fahrenheit.  Earthquakes  are 
frequent,  though  not  violent. 

By  far  the  largest  portion  of  the  inhabitants  live  on  the 
sea-coast,  because  they  have  there  great  facilities  for  fishing. 
They  construct  their  houses  after  the  manner  of  those  we  saw 
at  Tutuilla.     The  men  only  are  tattooed,  and  the  part  of  the 


ISLAND    r-F    UPOLU.  85 

body  thus  ornamented  is  from  the  waist  to  the  knee.  It  is 
very  tasfefuUy  done,  and  one  would  imagine  it  to  have  been 
adopted  in  imitation  of  breeches.  It  does,  in  fact,  somewhat 
abate  the  appearance  of  nakedness,  and  thus  give  an  air  of 
decency.  It  is  the  ceremony  of  initiation  into  manhood.  Fish 
is  an  almost  daily  article  of  food  with  those  who  live  on  the 
coast.  They  have  various  ways  of  catching  these ;  they  use 
the  hook,  net,  and  spear,  and  for  lobsters,  &c.,  a  kind  of  a 
trap-basket.  They  construct  also  a  sort  of  pond,  or  inclosure 
of  mats  and  cocoa-nut  branches,  leaving  one  end  open.  A 
party  then  spread  about,  and  drive  the  fish  in,  and  thus  often 
inclose  a  large  number  at  once. 

Their  manufactures  eonsist  of  mats,  cloth,  and  baskets. 
This  is  the  work  of  women  ;  they  make  various  sorts  of 
mats — some  of  the  strong  leaf  of  the  pandanus,  in  nearly  its 
full  breadth,  for  spreading  on  the  floor — some  of  the  same  leaf 
spht  into  small  shreds  for  sleeping  upon.  A  much  finer  mat, 
the  weaving  of  which  will  occupy  a  woman  twelve  or  eighteen 
months,  is  woven  with  the  same  leaf  into  very  narrow  pieces, 
which  are  made  tough  and  durable  by  being  baked  in  an  oven, 
and  then  soaked  in  sea-water.  The  mat  is  so  fine  as  to  be 
almost  as  pliable  as  linen.  These  are  the  dresses  on  special 
occasions — the  common  one  being  like  that  we  saw  worn  by  the 
people  of  Tutuilla.  They  look  very  rich  and  elegant,  espe- 
cially when  trimmed  with  red  or  yellow  feathers. 

The  Tapa  is  made  as  elsewhere  from  the  Chinese  paper- 
mulberry.  This  is  also  in  extensive  use  for  clothing  and  bed- 
covering.  They  print  some  of  it  in  neat  patterns,  and  dye 
some  pieces  all  black,  or  brown.  It  wears  better  than  the 
cloth  made  at  Taliiti. 

Nets  are  nia<le  from  the  bark  of  the  hibiscus,  a  tree  which 
is  very  common.     Their  construction  is  very  much  the  same 


86  ISLAND    OF    UPOLU. 


as  the  ordinary  fishing-net  in  use  among  us,  with  stones  in- 
stead of  bits  of  lead,  and  pieces  of  light  wood  instead  of  cork. 
The  making  of  these  is  a  distinct  trade.  They  also  make 
from  the  above  materials  some  very  neat  and  useful  baskets. 

Their  food  is  prepared  in  the  way  practised  in  Tahiti,  and 
they  have  many  dishes  which  are  rich  and  agreeable  to  the 
palate. 

The  women  are  treated  with  as  much  consideration  as  in 
any  part  of  the  world,  and  are  not  suffered  to  do  any  out-door 
work.  They  are  cleanly  in  their  habits,  and  bathe  daily,  after 
which  they  anoint  themselves  with  oil  and  turmeric.  The 
girls  are  pretty,  and  quite  modest.  Their  complexion  is  a 
lighter  brown  than  that  of  the  Tahitian  women.  It  is  the 
practice  of  mothers  here  to  suckle  their  children  until  they 
are  five  or  six  years  of  age,  and  I  myself  saw  a  woman  who 
gave  nourishment  to  two  children  ordifferent  ages  at  once. 

The  mariage-vow  is  observed  with  strict  fidelity.  The 
usual  mode  of  courtship  is  for  the  man  to  take  a  basket  of 
fruit  and  offer  it  to  the  object  of  his  choice.  If  the  young 
woman  partakes  of  it,  hib  addresses  are-  favorably  received, 
and  he  applies  to  his  chief  for  permission  to  marry.  When 
this  is  granted,  he  calls  on  the  parents  of  the  girl,  and  pays 
them  a  stipulated  price  for  her,  which  varies  with  the  re- 
spectability and  circumstances  of  her  family.  The  ceremony 
is  concluded  with  a  grand  feast,  to  which  the  relatives  and 
acquaintances  of  the  parties  are  invited. 

Children  are  brought  up  without  severity.  As  soon  as  the 
boy  can  make  use  of  his  hands  and  feet,  his  father  furnishes 
him  with  a  little  boAv  and  arrow,  and  ex(  rcises  him  in  shooting 
at  a  target,  or  throwing  stones  at  a  mark  by  the  sea-side. 

Their  burials  are  conducted  as  follows: — The  body  is 
enveloped  in  several  thicknesses  of  tapa,  and  placed  in  a  grave 


ISLAND    OF   UPOLU.  87 


about  three  feet  deep,  with  flowers  and  shrubbery  planted 
around.  No  arms,  or  food  is  deposited  with  the  bodies ;  for, 
according  to  their  behef,  they  have  all  these  things  provided 
for  them  in  the  world  of  spirits.  After  the  body  has  lain  in 
the  grave  a  year  or  two,  they  take  up  the  skull  and  place  it  in 
a  box  in  their  houses.  The  object  of  this  practice,  I  am  told, 
is  to  prevent  their  enemies  obtaining  possession  of  them  in 
times  of  war,  when  it  is  a  common  custom  to  violate  the 
sanctity  of  the  grave.  The  relatives  of  the  deceased  show 
their  grief  by  burning  themselves  and  scratching  their  faces. 

Their  amusements  consist  of  dances,  wrestling-matches, 
sham  club-fights,  and  a  variety  of  games.  All  the  dances 
I  saw  were  very  indecorous,  so  much  so  as  to  make  it  improper 
to  attempt  a  description  of  them  here.  Young  women  had  a 
share  in  them,  and  it  seemed  to  me  that  their  attitudes  were 
of  a  character  still  more  disgusting  than  those  of  the  men. 
The  music  accompanying  the  dances  consisted  of  drums^* 
fluteSjt  and  singing.  It  is  said  that  the  sham-fights  sometimes 
last  a  whole  day,  and  usually  end  in  bloody  noses  and  broken 
heads  and  limbs.  Their  arms  consist  of  spears,  clubs,  bows 
and  arrows.  The  spear  is  pointed  with  bone,  and  is  con- 
sidered a  very  formidable  weapon. 

The  government  resembles  the  early  state  of  the  European 
nations  under  the  feudal  system.  Their  orders  of  dignity 
answers  to  barons,  vassals,  and  villeins.  Great  respect  is  paid 
to  the  chiefs,  and  particularly  to  the  highest  class.  The 
"  Tuper,"  or  barons,  are  lords  of  the  several  districts  into 
which  the  island  is  divided.  The  vassals  superintend  the  cul- 
tivation of  the  ground,  and  the  villeins,  or  the  common  people, 
perform  all  the  laborious  work.     The  whole  power  lies  in  the 


*  The  Samoan  drum  is  made  of  a  piece  of  wood  hallowed  out. 
t  This  flute  is  made  of  bamboo. 


ISLAND    OF    UPOLU. 


chiefs  of  the  first  class.  Their  meetings  are  called  "  Fonos," 
which  signifies  in  English,  a  General  Assembly.  The  eldest 
chief  present  presides,  and  they  are  conducted  with  much 
ceremony.  The  person  who  wishes  to  speak  must  first  obtain 
the  permission  to  do  so  from  the  presiding  chief.  The  common 
people  are  required  to  stand  at  a  respectful  distance  from  the 
chiefs,  nor  can  an  inferior  chief  stand  or  lie  down  before  a 
superior  one.  It  is  the  custom,  before  the  Fono  proceeds  to 
business,  to  compliment  the  presiding  chief,  and  to  invoke 
blessings  on  him  that  his  life  may  be  prolonged  and  pros- 
perous. 

The  most  usual  forms  of  punishment  for  crimes,  are  cutting 
ofi"  the  nose  and  ears  of  the  ofiender,  flogging,  exposure  of  the 
naked  body  to  the  sun,  confiscation  of  property  and  banish- 
ment. Adultery  is  punishable  with  death.  The  punishment 
for  murder  is  not  specified  by  law,  but  is  left  for  the  relatives 
of  the  person  slain  to  demand  the  atonement.  Most  gene- 
rally, however,  pardon  is  purchased  for  the  murderer  by  his 
friends,  who,  like  himself,  are  liable  to  be  revenged  on  by  the 
aggrieved  party,  so  long  as  the  affair  remains  unsettled. 

There  are  several  missionary  stations'^  on  Upolu,  and  many 
of  the  inhabitants  have  embraced  Christianity.  Those  who 
still  adhere  to  their  ancient  religionf  are  called  Devils.  They 
may  be  distinguished  from  the  Christians  by  their  hair, J 
which  they  allow  to  grow  luxuriantly  all  over  the  head ;  they 

*  The  first  missionaries  to  these  islands-  belonged  to  the  Wesleyan  denomination, 
but  they  were  soon  after  succeeded  by  those  of  the  English  Board,  the  Wesleyans 
abandoning  the  "field  for  that  of  the  Fejee  Group.  They  are  much  respected  by 
the  natives,  and  their  labors  have  been  attended  with  beneficial  results. 

fit  very  much  resemble?  the.  religion  of  most  heathen  nations.  Its  divinities  are 
the  oftprings  of  fear.  The  Priesthood  is  hereditary.  The  priests  are  the  men  of 
science,  and  to  their  care  are  intrusted  all  the  sick,  whom  they  attempt  to  cure  by 
ridiculous  ceremonies  and  enchdntments. 

i  The  Christians  cut  their  hair  short,  and  have  abandoned  their  old  dances. 


PUT    THE    MURDERER    ON    SHORE. 


are  also  more  indolent  and  less  intelligent  than  those  of  their 
brethren  who  have  been  converted. 

During  our  stay  at  Upolu  the  trading-master  was  stationed 
on  shore  daily,  for  the  purpose  of  purchasing  provisions  for 
the  squadron.  Here  all  sorts  of  articles  were  displayed ;  but 
those  w4iich  took  best  with  the  natives  were  hatchets,  knives, 
blue  nankeen,  and  chisels.  Though  the  weather  was  gene- 
rally unfavorable,  we  obtained  very  good  rates  for  our  chro- 
nometers. The  scientific  gentlemen  were  constantly  employed 
in  making  excursions  into  the  interior  of  the  island,. to  collect 
specimens  and  information  in  their  respective  departments. 
Officers  were  also  stationed  on  shore  day  and  night  for  the 
purpose  of  making  observations  on  the  tides.  In  short,  every 
exertion  was  made  to  promote  the  interests  of  the  Expedi- 
tion. 

On  the  afternoon  of  November  10th  we  proceeded  to  sea, 
in  company  with  the  rest  of  the  squadron. 

On  the  11th,  I  received  orders  to  join  the  "Vincennes." 
During  the  early  part  of  this  day  w^e  experienced  a  very  heavy 
shower  of  rain,  accompanied  with  much  thunder. 

At  11.30  P.  M.,  we  arrived  off  Wallis  Island.  While  we 
were  making  a  survey  of  this  island,  a  canoe,  paddled  by  two 
men,  came  alongside,  a  circumstance  which  Captain  Wilkes 
availed  himself  of  to  land  the  native  prisoner  who  killed  our 
countryman. 

The  island  is  well  inhabited,  but  the  two  natives  who  came 
off  to  the  ship  assured  us  that  there  was  no  communication 
between  it  and  the  Saraoan  group.  Tuvi — for  that  was  the 
prisoner's  name — was  kindly  treated  during  his  confinement  on 
board  the  "  Peacock,"  and  seemed  much  distressed  in  parting 
with  her  officers  and  crew.  He  was  about  thirty  years  of  age, 
and  had  a  wife  and  several  children.     His  stature  was  that 


90  AT    SEA,    OFF    WALLIS    ISLAND. 

of  an  ordinary- sized  man,  and  there  was  nothing  of  the  sinister 
expression  in  his  countenanca, 

WaUis  Island  is  situated  in  latitude  13°  24'  00''  south,  and 
longitude  176°  09'  00' '  east.  From  the  name  one  would 
naturally  suppose  it  was  a  single  island.  Such,  however,  is 
not  the  case.  It  is  a  group  of  small  islands  encircled  by  one 
extensive  reef,  against  which  the  swell  of  the  ocean  may  be 
seen  breaking  at  all  times.  The  native  name  of  the  principal 
island  is  Wea,  and  it  is  tolerably  high,  but  the  others  are 
low,  resembling  the  Coral  Island  of  the  Paumato  Group.  All 
are  thickly  covered  with  trees,  and  well  inhabited.  The  tw^o 
natives  who  came  on  board  informed  us  that  there  was  a  good 
anchorage  inside  of  the  reef,  and  plenty  of  provisions  to  be  had 
from  the  inhabitants.  It  is  said  that  the  Catholic  missionaries 
who  were  expelled  from  Tahiti,  were  landed  here,  and  that 
they  have  made  many  converts  among  the  natives. 

When  the  survey  was  finished  we  again  made  all  sail,  and 
stood  to  the  southward. 

On  the  following  morning  w^e  passed  Horn  Island,  dis- 
covered about  the  year  1616,  by  Le  Maire.  It  is  high  and 
well  wooded.  As  for  the  inhabitants,  I  am  unable  to  speak 
of  them. 

At  early  daylight  on  the  18th,  Matthew's  Rock  was  re- 
ported in  sight.  We  bore  away  for  it,  and  when  within  half 
a  mile  of  its  northernmost  point,  measured  base  by  sound  with 
the  ''  Peacock,"  and  angled  on  it  in  order  to  fix  its  position. 
A  boat,  with  Drs.  P.  and  F.,  was  also  sent  to  make  an 
examination  of  the  rock.  It  is  about  half  a  mile  in  circum- 
ference, and  very  steep  and  rugged  ;  our  boat,  therefore,  found 
great  difficulty  in  eflfocting  a  landing.  Here  and  there  in  spots 
may  be  seen  some  soil  bearing  bushes.  In  general  a  naked- 
ness of  rock  characterize  the  prospect.     Immense  numbers  of 


NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  91 

birds  were  perched  upon  it.  The  boat  having  returned  we 
resumed  our  course. 

On  the  24th  of  November  we  experienced  a  severe  thunder 
storm.  The  ship  was  struck  by  lightning  several  times,  and 
the  forward  conductor  was  broken  into  many  pieces,  but 
neither  the  rigging  nor  hull  were  damaged.  The  wind  blew  vio- 
lently from  the  southwest,  and  during  the  continuance  of  the 
storm  the  thermometer  was  observed  to  fall  from  85°  to  69°. 
After  sunset,  as  the  wind  increased  in  strength,  "  all  hands 
were  called,"  the  topsails  were  close-reefed,  and  a  signal 
made  for  the  rest  of  the  squadron  to  adopt  the  same  pre- 
caution. Our  position  at  meridian  was,  according  to  dead 
reckoning,  in  latitude  32°  56'  00'^  south,  and  longitude  160* 
20'  48"  east. 

Two  days  after  this  storm  we  passed  Lord  Howe's  Island 
and  Ball's  Pyramid,  and  several  other  small  islands,  called 
Admiralty  Rocks.  The  two  first  mentioned  are  high,  bleak, 
rugged  rocks. 

On  the  27th  we  saw  several  fin-back  whales,  also  a  great 
number  of  birds,  among  which  were  four  or  ^ve  very  large 
albatrosses. 

At  10  A.  M.  on  the  27th,  we  made  the  coast  of  New  Hol- 
land, or  New  South  Wales,  on  the  weather-beam.  At  7.40 
P.  M.  descried  Sydney  light-house,  and  at  9  called  all  hands 
to  work  ship  into  port.  We  then  stood  for  the  harbor,  and  by 
10.37  anchored  in  seven  fathoms  water  ofi"  the  town  of  Sydney, 
abreast  of  Fort  M'Quarie,  without  any  of  her  citizens,  or 
the  garrison's  being  aware  of  our  character.  The  "  Pea- 
cock "  followed  in  our  track,  and  anchored  within  a  cable's 
length  of  us.  The  remaining  vessels  came  in  the  following 
day. 

The  fact  of  our  coming  in  here  in  the  night,  and  that  too 


92  NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 

"without  the  aid  of  a  pilot,  appeared  to  have  excited  no  little 
sensation  among  the  people  on  shore.  Several  of  the  news- 
papers spoke  of  it  next  morning  as  something  very  remarkable, 
and  jocularly  declared  it  to  be  a  '"  Yankee  trick,"  done  for 
the  purpose  of  saving  the  pilotage,  and  in  perfect  keeping  with 
our  usiial  keenness  in  money  matters.  It  would  have  been 
rather  a  serious  joke  though,  had  the  object  of  our  visit  been 
hostile,  for  we  might  have  possessed  ourselves  of  the  fort,  and 
then  bombarded  the  town  with  the  greatest  ease. 

Of  this,  however,  they  were  as  sensible  as  ourselves,  and 
the  necessity  of  fortifying  the  harbor  more  effectually,  and  of 
being  more  vigilant,  became  fully  impressed  upon  their  minds. 
There  are  many  excellent  sites  for  fortresses,  so  that  the 
harbor  might  be  rendered  perfectly  inaccessible  to  an  enemy's 
vessels. 


u 


AUSTRALIA,    OR    NEW    HOLLAND.  93 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

AUSTRALIA,  OR  NEW  HOLLAND,  OR  THE  LAND  OF  ANOMALIES. 

While  the  Portuguese  and  the  Spaniards,  early  in  the 
sixteenth  century,  -were  extending  their  enterprise  through  the 
seas  of  the  further  east,  rumors  reached  Europe  of  a  new  con- 
tinent on  the  south.  The  navigator,  driven  by  contrary  winds 
and  currents  beyond  the  bounds  of  his  ordinary  enterprise, 
discovered  different  points  of  land,  which,  for  a  long  period, 
none  endeavored  to  examine.  The  Spaniards  had  been  navi- 
gating the  Indian  Archipelago  for  more  than  eighty,  and  the 
Portuguese  for  neajly  a  hundred  years,  before  the  name  of 
any  mariner  became  connected  with  the  discovery  of  Australia. 
The  unknown  southern  land,  (Terra  Australis  incognito,)  and 
the  southern  land  of  the  Holy  Spirit,  (Australia  del  Spiritu 
Santo,)  were  indefinitely  mentioned  in  their  records,  yet  no  ex- 
plorer ventured  to  approach  the  mysterious  coast,  dimly  seen 
by  the  chance-voyager  in  those  remote  seas. 

In  1605,  however,  the  Dutch,  eager  to  obtain  a  maratime 
superiority  in  those  distant  regions,  equipped  the  yatch  "  Duy- 
fen,"  which  sailed  from  the  port  of  Bantam,  in  Java,  to 
explore  the  coast  of  New  Guinea.  Returning  from  this  expe- 
dition, the  little  vessel  entered  the  waters  of  the  shores  of 
Australia,  and  sailed  into  the  great  Gulf  of  Carpentaria.  To 
these  early  voyagers  all  seemed  desolate  and  barren,  for,  since 
the  discovery  of  America,  the  voyage  of  Vasco  di  Gama,  and 
the  exploration  of  the  Indian  Archipelago,  the  navigator  con- 
tinually thirsted  for  some  new  Chersonese,  where  gold  was  to 


94  AUSTRALIA,    OR    NEW    HOLLAND. 

be  found  in  every  stream,  where  amber  was  washed  up  on  the 
beach,  where  spices  perfumed  the  forests,  and  pearls  were 
plentiful  in  the  shallow  waters  near  the  shore.  The  wild 
aspect  of  the  Australian  coasts  consequently  offered  little 
temptation  to  them.  Nevertheless,  Spanish,  Dutch,  and 
English  mariners  continued  to  visit  those  seas,  Dampier, 
between  1684  and  1700,  exploring  a  portion  of  the  north- 
western coast,  and  surveying  it  in  the  rude  manner  of  his  time. 
Half  a  century  of  further  research  added  little  to  the  world's 
knowledge  of  this  great  region ;  but  1770  brought  the  advent 
of  Captain  Cook,  whose  immortal  memory  is  associated  with 
so  many  seas  and  shores.  He  discovered  the  eastern  coast  of 
Australia  from  Cape  Howe  to  Cape  York,  naming  the  region 
New  South  Wales.  Many  successive  voyagers  followed,  each 
of  whom  contributed  some  tracing  to  the  sea-board  of  this  vast 
territory,  until  Captain  Stokes,  about  eight  years  ago,  made  the 
entire  circuit  of  the  island,  and  first  enabled  the  geographer  ac- 
curately to  lay  down  the  leading  features  of  its  mighty  outline.* 
The  daring  navigators  of  Europe  explored  the  shores  of 
Australia,  marking  its  outlaying  islands,  endeavoring  to  dis- 
cover the  mouths  of  rivers,  fixing  the  position  of  harbors,  and 
laying  down  the  general  outline  of  the  island;  while  inland 
discovery  commenced  much  later,  and  made  a  slower  progress. 
In  the  south,  ridges  of  hills  were  known  to  exist,  and  believed 
to  be  impassable.  Not  lofty,  but  precipitous  and  rugged,  they 
were  intersected  by  deep  chasms  and  broad,  barren  valleys, 
sprinkled  with  half-blasted  trees,  and  piled  with  masses  of 
sandstone  rock — landscapes  sublime  in  their  melancholy  deso- 
lation.    The  blue  mountains,  so  named  from  their  habitual 

♦  To  those  familiar  with  the  history  of  maratime  discovery,  the  mention  of  such 
names  as  New  Holland,  New  South  Wales,  Tasmania,  Van  Dieman's  Land,  De  Witts, 
&c.,  will  at  once  recall  the  numerous  voyages  and  voyagers  connected  with  th« 
gradual  exploration  of  Australia. 


AUSTRALIA,    OR   NEW    HOLLAND.  96 

aspect,  were  long  considered  impassable ;  but  when  English 
colonists  in  New  South  Wales  were  straitened  for  room,  they 
looked  for  wider  pastures  for  their  flocks,  and  more  extensive 
lands  for  the  cultivation  of  corn  and  vegetables.  Necessity 
then  opened  a  passage  through  the  hills — the  Bathurst  plains 
were  discovered,  and  a  stage-coach  rattled  along  a  well-made 
road  winding  among  the  mountain-passes.  In  other  directions 
adveuturous  men,  starting  from  different  points,  attempted  to 
explore  the  interior  of  Australia ;  but  as  yet  all  have  been 
unsuccessful  in  their  endeavors  to  reach  the  centre,  and  he 
who  traveled  farthest,  at  the  utmost  point  of  his  journey,  has 
only  cast  his  eyes  over  a  monotonous  desert,  apparently  of 
interminable  extent. 

Australia  is  situated  in  the  immense  ocean  stretching  to 
the  southeast  of  Asia,  and  lies  in  nearly  the  same  latitude 
as  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  and  Brazil.  Equal  in  surface 
to  four-fifths  of  the  European  continent,  it  extends  from 
113°  05'  00"  to  153°  16'  00"  east  longitude,  and  from 
10°  39'  00'  to  39°  11'  00"  south  latitude.  The  area  is  cal- 
culated at  3,000,000  square  miles,  and  the  coast  line  at  7,750. 
The  whole  of  this  immense  mass  of  land  is  solid  and  compact, 
broken  by  few  indentations  of  the  ocean. 

The  mariner,  for  the  first  time  approaching  Australia  on 
its  western  coast,  perceives  few  of  those  natural  charms 
painted  by  so  many  writers.  Alon^^  these  shores,  even  now 
very  rarely  visited,  there  is  little  to  allure  the  eye.  A  mono- 
tonous plain,  bounded  in  the  distance  by  a  chain  of  bleak 
hills,  stretches  from  the  sea^  and  over  the  surface  of  this  vast 
level  are  scattered  sweeps  of  ground  blackened  by  the  passage 
of  flames.  The  few  wandering  tribes  leading  a  nomade  life 
in  this  part  of  the  island,  frequently,  by  accident,  or  inten- 
tionally, kindle  the  tall,  dry  grasses  or  the  low  bush.    The  fire, 


AUSTRALIA,    OR    NEW    HOLLAND. 


seizing  greedily  on  the  parched  vegetation,  travels  with  great 
rapidity,  and  diiven  by  the  wind  spreads  to  the  base  of  the 
hills,  where  the  conflagration  spends  its  fury.  As  we  proceed 
further  northward,  the  shores  bec^ine  strewn  with  enormous 
masses  of  rock,  extending  to  some  distance  from  the  beach. 
It  is  supposed  that  formerly  the  land  here  was  considerably 
more  elevated  than  at  present,  and  that  the  action  of  water 
has  levelled  it,  leaving  the  more  durable  masses  unremoved. 
Some  eminences,  covered  with  a  vegetation  richer  than  that  of 
Brazil  or  Borneo,  with  occasional  fertile  plains,  present  them- 
selves in  marked  contrast  with  the  general  aridity  of  the  coast. 

On  the  northern  shores  the  same  level  prevails.  Flinders 
sailed  175  leagues  without  seeing  any  hill  higher  than  the 
mast  of  a  sloop. 

Along  the  Gulf  of  Carpentaria  few  elevations  occur ;  but 
reaching  the  eastern  coast,  the  view  is  no  longer  monotonous 
or  dreary.  New  scenes  continually  unfold  themselves — forests 
and  open  plains,  and  valleys  running  up  between  the  hills, 
and  a  more  numerous  population  enlivening  the  country. 
Passing  between  the  shore  and  that  great  barrier-reef  which 
outlies  the  eastern  coast  of  New  Holland  for  more  than  six 
hundred  miles,  we  enter  the  principal  field  of  British  enter- 
prise, where  the  coast  is  marked  by  a  thousand  fantastic 
irregularities.  A  line  of  precipitous  cliffs  extends  far  towards 
the  south,  a  huge  breach  in  this  natural  wall  becomes  appa- 
rent ;  and  while  the  eye  is  resting  on  the  grim  magnificence  of 
these  granite  barriers,  the  vessel  glides  between  the  •  rocks, 
and  reposes  in  the  superb  harbor  of  Port  Jackson.  The 
shore,  sweeping  in  gentle  slopes  toward  the  hills,  is  covered 
with  a  natural  growth  of  verdure.  The  sea,  blue  and  brilliant, 
flows  into  beautiful  bays,  where  vessels  lie  safe  after  their 
long  voyage  from   Europe.     White   stone-built  villas,  with 


AUSTRALIA,    OR    NEW    HOLLAND.  97 

graceful  gardens  and  groves,  lend  artificial  charms  to  a  land- 
scape naturally  picturesque  ;  and  Sydney,  the  capital  of  New 
South  Wales,  with  its  forts  and  light-houses,  its  churches, 
hospitals,  and  custom-house,  full  of  traffic,  and  smoking  in  the 
heat  of  industry,  appears  like  the  creation  of  enchantment. 
The  industry  of  Europe,  planted  in  Australia,  now  ploughs 
the  sea  between  Port  Jackson  and  Moreton  Bay  with  steamers, 
which  prepare  the  mind  for  the  scene  presented  within ;  but 
with  this  exception,  the  change  from  the  outer  view  to  the 
panorama  of  Sydney,  is  as  that  from  a  lifeless  desert  to  an 
English  seaport. 

Towards  the  west  the  surface  again  becomes  level — ^irregu- 
larities are  few — tall,  sloping  cliffs  commence,  and  the  country 
sinks  into  a  plain  covered  with  scrub,  and  extending  as  far  as 
the  south-western  point  of  the  island.  There,  rises  a  range  of 
low  hills,  continuing  as  far  as  Gautheaume  Bay,  where  we  reach 
again  the  desolate  level  from  whence  our  circuit  commenced. 

The  streams  in  South  Australia  and  Western  Australia 
are,  in  comparison,  insignificant ;  but  it  is  a  received  opinion 
among  many  geographers  that  great  water-springs  exist  in  the 
island,  which  will  ultimately  burst  from  the  earth,  ftow 
together,  form  themselves  channels,  and  find  outlets  at  various 
places  along  the  coast.  At  present,  in  the  river-system  of 
Australia,  as  well  as  in  its  mountains,*^  valleys,  and  geolo- 
gical formation,  its  botany  and  its  zoology,  we  discover  a 
strong  support  of  the  theory  that  this  region  is  of  recent 
emergence  from  the  ocean.  Formerly,  Captain  Sturt  believes 
it  consisted  of  an  archipelago  of  islands.  The  bed  of  the 
ocean,  upheaved  by  the  agency  of  subterranean  fires,  raised 

*  In  the  countries  of  the  old  world,  every  range,  however  tortuous,  agrees  in  general 
direction  with  the  length  of  the  continent.  In  Australia  the  case  is  reversed — the 
hills  run  transversely  fronc  north  to  south. 


98  AUSTRALIA,    OR    NEW    HOLLAND. 


the  whole  to  a  level,  and  the  action  of  the  great  sea  sweeping 
over.it  has  produced  these  strange  appearances,  which  have 
earned  for  Australia  its  curious  title — the  Land  of  Anomalies. 
The  researches  of  travelers  in  the  interior  will  at  no  distant 
day,  lay  it  open  to  examination  ;  and  when  the  great  doubt  is 
removed,  science  will  explain  with  accuracy  phenomena  at  the 
present  day  so  perplexing. 

Eighty  years  ago  the  adventurous  voyager.  Captain  Cook, 
sailed  along  the  eastern  coast  of  Australia,  and  there,  in 
latitude  33°  south,  discovered  a  commodious  inlet.  Near  the 
water's  edge  he  saw  many  curious  flowers  blooming  wild,  and 
from  them  named  the  place  Botany  Bay.  The  account  of  his 
visit  was  circulated  in  England,  and,  sixteen  years  later,  it 
was  resolved  to  establish  a  colony  in  some  part  of  the  unknown 
southern  land.  Botany  Bay  was  thought  of.  In  1787,  the 
"  Sirius  "  and  the  "  Supply,''  with  six  transports  and  three 
store-ships,  sailed  with  the  germs  of  a  new  colony  on  board. 
Besides  the  crews  and  166  marines,  there  were  757  convicts 
— 565  men  and  192  women.  Stores  and  provisions  for  two 
years  were  taken,  besides  agricultural  implements  and  tools, 
with  all  the  necessaries  for  the  foundation  of  a  permanent  set- 
tlement. Captain  Philip,  the  appointed  governor,  took  com- 
mand of  the  squadron,  and  sailed  first  to  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope,  then  belonging  to  the  Dutch,  where  live  stock  and 
seeds  were  procured.  At  Rio  Janeiro  more  stores  were  taken 
in,  and  the  expedition  steered  direct  for  the  new  land.  Con- 
tinuing their  course,  they  reached  Australia  after  a  voyage  of 
eight  months  and  one  week.  Botany  Bay  appeared  to  pro- 
mise little ;  water  seemed  scarce,  and  an  aspect  of  aridity  on 
the  surrounding  land  decided  them  to  go  elsewhere  in  search 
of  a  place  of  rest.  The  fleet,  therefore,  weighed  anchor; 
and,    as   they  left   the   bay,   two   French   ships,  under  La 


AUSTRALIA,    OR   NEW    HOLLAND.  99 

Perouse,  entered  it.  That  adventurous  discoverer  stayed  two 
months  in  this  haven,  and  then  set  sail  for  the  Pacific,  disap- 
pearing forever  from  the  sight  of  civilized  man. 

Drawing  near  an  opening  in  the  cliffs,  a  few  miles  further 
north,  the  governor  went  to  examine  it  in  person.  The 
natives  collected  on  the  rocks,  shouting  to  the  strangers  to 
go  away ;  but  they  persevered.  Captain  Cook  had  reported 
the  existence  in  this  neighborhood  of  a  creek,  where  boats 
could  be  sheltered.  A  sailor,  named  Jackson,  however, 
declared  that  a  great  haven  lay  within  the  mighty  rocks 
that  frowned  above  them ;  and  entering  between  these,  the 
explorers  were  delighted  to  find  a  harbor  of  many  miles  in 
extent.  A  fine  anchoring-ground  was  at  once  chosen,  and 
the  name  of  the  sailor  bestowed  on  the  harbor. 

The  spot  chosen  for  debarkation  was  near  a  stream  of 
fresh  water,  over-shadowed  by  trees.  Every  man  literally 
stepped  from  the  boats  into  a  forest.  They  detached  them- 
selves into  parties,  and  the  primeval  silence  of  the  shore 
was  immediately  broken  by  sounds  which  have  never  since 
died  away.  Some  shouldered  the  axe  and  commenced  clear- 
ing ground  for  the  different  encampments ;  some  pitched  the 
tents  ;  some  brought  from  the  ships  the  necessary  stores, 
and  others  examined  the  capabilities  of  the  neighboring  soil. 
Every  one  wandered  freely  over  the  country,  and  wholesale 
disposals  were  made  of  land  which,  fifty  years  later,  was 
worth  more  than  a  thousand  guineas  an  acre. 

The  people  were  then  collected  together,  and  the  governor's 
commission  was  read,  with  letters  patent  for  establishing 
courts  of  justice.  The  ground  was  gradually  cleared,  a 
rude  farm  was  prepared  to  receive  the  live  stock,  and  gardens 
were  laid  out  for  the  planting  of  seeds  and  roots.  Thus  was 
planted  the  colony  of  New  South  Wales. 


100  AUSTRALIA    AND    NEW    ilOLLAND. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

AUSTRALIA  OR  NEW  HOLLAND. 

The  colony  of  New  South  Wales  is  exceeding  precocious, 
approaching  fast  to  commercial  and  political  greatness.  It 
promises  fair  to  occupy  a  commanding  position  with  respect  to 
the  quarter  of  the  globe  in  which  it  is  situated.  There  is  very 
little  doubt  that  when  sufficiently  powerful,  the  colonists  will 
shake  off  the  yoke  of  the  mother  country,  and  erect  themselves 
into  a  separate  sovereignty,  such  a  spirit  being  abundantly 
evident,  even  at  present.  They  have  not  as  yet  the  strength 
necessary  for  an  undertaking  of  so  great  a  magnitude ;  but 
none  of  the  inclination  is  wanting,  particularly  since  the  home 
government  has  threatened  to  subject  them  to  what  they  con- 
sider unjust  taxation.  Already  the  storm-cloud  has  began  to 
show  itself  above  the  horizon,  and  we  will  venture  to  predict, 
the  time  is  not  far  distant  when  it  will  overspread  the  heavens, 
and  shower  upon  them  all  the  horrors  of  family  strife.  A 
population  composed,  as  this  chiefly  is,  of  the  most  turbulent 
and  refractory,  and  of  the  self- exiled,  who  have  been  driven 
from  their  native  land  by  misery  and  persecution,  are  not 
likely  to  remain  long  in  patient  subjection  to  a  country  which 
has  been  the  source  of  their  former  misfortunes  and  disgraces, 
and  with  the  recollections  of  which  so  much  is  mingled  to 
awaken  the  bad  feelings  of  the  heart.  They  are  constantly 
looking  forward  for  the  severance  of  the  tie  which  binds  their 
new  home  to  the  parent  land.     The  vicious,  because  such 


AUSTRALIA    OR     NEW     HOLLAND.  101 

characters  hate  and  fear  the  power  that  has  chastised  them; 
and  the  unfortunate,  because  they  anticipate  from  a  longer 
connection  a  recurrence  of  their  past  adversity  by  an  introduc- 
tion of  the  same  causes  which  had  led  to  them  in  a  country 
where  the  unassisted  poor  man,  if  he  would  not  die  of  starva- 
tion, must  plunge  himself  in  crime.  They  know  well  that 
when  the  majority  is  nearly  on  a  footing  with  regard  to  wealth, 
chances  are  great,  that  each  will  secure  to  himself  a  compe- 
tency. In  a  community  so  circumstanced,  the  struggle  is  not 
with  the  overwhelming  advantages  of  the  rich,  but  with  more 
surmountable  obstacles.  The  road  to  ajQSuence  is  denied  to 
none,  and  success  is  dependent  on  a  man's  own  exertions. 
He  will  soonest  reach  the  goal  who  is  most  industrious  and 
enterprising. 

The  town  of  Sydney*  is  in  the  most  flourishing  condition, 
trade  is  extending  and  becoming  more  and  more  profitable, 
and  emigration  flowing  into  the  colony  with  an  enlarging  cur- 
rent, and  composed  of  individuals  of  that  most  useful  class  to 
a  young  colony — ^artizans,  agriculturists,  and  such  like. 

The  principal  article  of  export  is  wool.  Wheat  ranks  next 
in  importance ;  but  the  crops  are  uncertain,  owing  to  the  long 
and  severe  droughts  to  which  the  country  is  liable  some  years.- 
These,  by  the  way,  are  most  serious  evils  to  the  country,  and 
one  of  the  greatest  checks  to  its  advancement,  and,  unfor- 
tunately, irrigation  cannot  be  resorted  to  as  a  substitute  in 
consequence  of  the  scarcity  of  fresh- water  streams.  The  dry 
periods  are  sometimes  so  constant  and  protracted  that  every- 

*  Sydney  is  the  capital  of  New  South  Wales,  and  contains  about  26,000  inhabi- 
tants. The  streets  are  well  laid  out,  and  are  rapidly  filling  up  with  good  houses 
constructed  of  brick.  In  the  eastern  part  of  the  town  is  a  large  square,  upon  which 
are  situated  the  Catholic  Cathedral,  the  Ch'irch  of  St.  James',  and  the  offices  of  the 
Colonial  Government;  on  the  western  qua  -er  are  extensive  public  grounds,  and 
many  handsome  buildings. 


102  AUSTRALIA     OR    NEW     HOLLAND. 

thing  becomes  parched ;  all  nature  withers  under  their  fiery 
influence ;  vegetables,  plants,  herbs,  are  destroyed,  and  the 
fields  literally  take  fire.  The  ground  becomes  intensely 
heated,  and  the  fine  dust  is  whirled  into  the  air  in  such  vast 
clouds  that  the  wayfarer  is  threatened  with  the  same  fate 
that  sometimes  befalls  the  unlucky  traveler  in  the  deserts  of 
Africa.  These  are  times  which  distress  not  only  the  grain- 
merchant,  but  the  market  generally.  Agriculture  becomes 
almost  neglected,  flocks  and  herds  sufier  for  the  want  of  sus- 
tenance, and  are  no  longer  driven,  and  inland  traveling  is 
rendered  difficult ;  hence  the  supply  of  wool,  provisions,  iand 
indeed  of  every  marketable  commodity,  is  most  sadly  di- 
minished. 

In  the  course  of  time,  when  the  wool-trade  ceases  to  be  as 
attractive  as  now,  no  longer  holding  out  such  allurements  to 
the  seekers  after  wealth,  many  articles  will  enter  into  exporta- 
tion which  are  as  yet  but  little  attended  to  by  agriculturists  and 
manufacturers.  Wine  will  probably  be  one  of  the  number, 
the  soil  and  climate  being  admirably  adapted  to  the  cultivation 
of  the  grape,  of  which  a  great  abundance  is  annually  raised. 

With  respect  to  mineral  resources,  this  country  is  not  with- 
out them.  Lead  and  iron  have  been  found  in  considerable 
quantities.  Coal  is  plentiful,  and  used  most  extensively,  as 
well  for  comfort  in  cold  weather  as  for  manufacturing  and 
other  purposes.  Tt  is  inflammable,  but  emits  an  exceedingly 
disagreeable  smell,  and  before  the  appearance  of  flame  throws 
out  an  immense  deal  of  smoke.  As  the  country  becomes 
explored  other  minerals*  will  be  discovered,  which  may  be 
expected  to  form  materials  for  future  prosperity. 

•  I  see  by  the  last  accounts  from  Sydney  that  both  copper  and  gold  have  been 
discovered,  and  the  former  is  said  to  be  of  a  very  superior  quality.  At  Moant 
Alexander  a  piece  of  gold  was  found,  weighing  68  oz.  18  dwts 


AUSTRALIA,    OR   NEW    HOLLAND.  103 

At  present  but  little  is  known  of  the  internal  parts  of  the 
island  of  New  Holland.  Exploration  has  been  carried  but  to 
a  small  extent,  owing  principally  to  the  difficulties  attendant 
upon  travehng.  Water  and  food  cannot  always  be  procured, 
and  the  natives  are  hostile.  The  trifling  knowledge  that  has 
been  obtained  of  this  region,  shows  it  to  be  one  of  the  most 
peculiar  in  the  world — distinct  from  others,  not  only  in  its 
general  character,  but  many  individual  features,  producing 
trees,  plants,  &c.,  and  several  kinds  of  animated  creatures 
which  are  totally  unlike  those  found  elsewhere  ;  for  instance, 
we  have  cherries  growing  with  their  stones  outside;  trees 
which  shed  their  bark  instead  of  their  leaves ;  black  swans, 
white  eagles,  quadrupeds  with  birds'  bills,  and  crabs  of  an 
ultra-marine  color.* 

The  human  occupantsf  of  the  land  even  are  not  without 

their   singularities.      There  is,  perhaps,  no  race  of  people 


*  Of  the  70,000  or  80,000  species  of  plants  described  by  botanists,  6,710  are  already 
known  to  exist  in  Australia  ;  of  these  only  270  are  common  to  it  and  to  other  countries, 
while  5,440  are  altogether  peculiar  to  its  extrordinary  soil.  Thus,  this  island  contri- 
butes to  botany  nearly  a  twelfth  of  the  plants  known  ;  but  they  are  generally  of  a  very 
low  order.  Ferns,  nettles,  flowers,  and  grasses,  having  the  form,  bulk  and  habits  of 
trees,  are  abundant.  No  dense  woods  have  been  found,  and  the  groves,  from  a  pecu- 
liar arrangement  of  their  foliage,  present  a  strange  appearance,  many  of  the  trees 
having  their  leaves  hanging  with  the  edge  downwards.  Flowering  plants  of  exces- 
sive beauty  are  found  ;  and  the  lily,  tulip  and  honeysuckle  grow  to  the  size  of  a 
large  standard  tree.  In  the  interior  immense  numbers  of  prickly  plants  cover  the 
ground,  binding  down  the  loose  soil,  and  preventing  the  drift  which  distinguishes  the 
deserts  of  Arabia  and  Africa  from  the  Australian  wastes.  The  zoology  of  this  region 
also  presents  extraordinary  features.  The  number  of  known  species  of  mamalia  is 
about  one  thousand  ;  fifty-eight  are  found  in  Australia,  of  which  forty-six  are  pecu- 
liar to  it,  leaving  twelve  only  which  it  contains  in  common  with  other  regions. 
Even  of  these,  five  are  whales  and  four  seals  ;  another  is  the  strong-winged  bat  of 
Madagascar  ;  another,  like  the  jerboa  of  America ;  and  the  last,  the  dog— the  animal 
tound  always  where  man  exists,  and  rarely,  if  ever,  where  he  does  not.  Kangaroos, 
however,  are  almost  the  only  important  animal.  In  the  birds  and  reptiles  similar 
peculiarities  exist. 

t  The  people  who  inhabit  this  extraordinary  region  belong  to  the  Ethiopic,  which  is 
the  lowest  family  of  the  human  race.     Many  writers  with  great  ingenuity  have 


104  AUSTRALIA,    OR    NEW    HOLLAND. 

known  to  whom  they  can  be  compared ;  all  would  suffer  by 
the  comparison.  A  resemblance  may  be  traced  between  them 
and  certain  tribes  of  negroes  in  Africa ;  the  complexion  is  the 
same — if  anything,  blacker — the  shape  of  the  head  and  some 
of  the  features  similar,  but  the  countenance  far  more  hideous ; 
in  fact,  imagination  cannot  conceive  the  extent  of  their 
ugliness.  Perfectly  satanic  in  appearance,  one  fancies  him- 
self in  the  midst  of  a  horde  of  sooty  imps  just  escaped  from 
the  dominions  of  his  cloven-footed  majesty.  They  are  gene- 
rally tall  and  shapeless,  with  exceedingly  slender  limbs  that 
have  scarce  even  the  ordinary  enlargements  occasioned  by  the 
muscles.  Their  manner  of  living,  habits  and  customs,  are 
those  of  a  people  plunged  in  the  lowest  depths  of  barbarism, 
and  showing  but  a  slight  superiority  over  the  beasts  of  the 
field.  They  do  not  settle  in  communities  for  mutual  pro- 
tection and  benefit,  but  roam  at  large  over  the  country,  sup- 
porting themselves  as  they  best  can  upon  what  chance  throws 
in  their  way — sometimes  upon  fruits  and  berries,  and  even 
roots,  and  sometimes  upon  snakes  and  whatever  animals  they 
succeed  in  ensnaring.      They  do  not  even  build  huts,  but 


attempted  to  trace  the  original  colonization  of  Australia  to  a  horde  of  Malays  passing 
over  in  canoes  fram  the  Indian  Archipelago,  across  Torres's  Straits  to  the  unknown 
southern  land.  The  color  of  the  skin,  however,  the  formation  of  the  skull  and  the 
limbs,  with  the  genius,  the  habits,  and  tbe  general  character  of  the  Australians 
identify  them  with  the  negro  race  of  New  t  linea.  The  weapons  they  employ  are 
similar,  and  their  progress  in  the  industrial  i.rts,  as  well  as  their  mental  qualities 
and  condition  of  existence,  being  infinitely  lower  than  those  of  the  Malay,  and 
closely  similar  to  -those  of  the  Papuan,  destroy  the  theory  of  their  Malan  origin. 
Traditions  they  hav«  few,  and  those  but  faiut  and  incoherent.  It  is  probable, 
however,  that  the  wild  savages  of  the  Indian  Archipelago,  driven  from  their  original 
homes  by  the  superior  civilization  of  the  Malays,  put  to  sea  in  rude  canoes,  and 
reaching  the  mysterious  southern  land,  debarked,  and  gradually  peopled  tlie  wil- 
derness. They  left  their  own  rich  islands  to  the  conquering  Malays,  deserting  a 
contested  heritage  for  one  where  security  and  peace  made  up  for  the  loss  of  a  soil 
spontaneously  productive.  That  infusion  of  other  blood  has  taken  place  is  probable, 
but  not  to  such  an  extent  as  to  have  influenced  the  character  of  the  population. 


AUSTRALIA,    OR   NEW    HOLLAND^  105 

shelter  themselves  from  the  inclemencies  of  the  weather  under 
decayed  tree^.  In  truth,  they  are  a  strange  race ;  and  the 
greatest  wonder  is  that  there  should  be  so  great  a  dissimilarity 
between  them  and  the  natives  of  the  surrounding  islands — 
not  only  are  they  altogether  unlike  in  personal  appearance, 
but  in  every  other  respect.  Most  of  the  other  islanders 
have  light  brown  complexions,  strait  hair,  and  are  handsome 
and  active — live  together  in  villages,  under  the  government  of 
something  like  bands,  and  in  the  internal  arrangement  of 
their  huts,  manner  of  living,  &c.,  exhibit  quite  a  correct  idea 
of  domestic  comfort ;  but  these,  on  the  contrary,  lead  a  life 
literally  that  of  wild  animals. 

Both  sexes  have  the  disgusting  practice  of  rubbing  fish  oil 
into  their  skins ;  but  they  are  compelled  to  do  this  as  a 
protection  against  mosquitoes,  which  are  very  large  and  bite 
with  much  severity.  Some  of  them  have  been  seen  with  the 
entrails  of  ^fish  frying  in  the  burning  sun  upon  their  heads 
until  the  oil  ran  down  over  their  foreheads.  On  particular 
occasions  they  besmear  themselves  with  red  and  white  clay, 
using  the  former  when  preparing  to  fight — the  latter,  when 
going  to  have  their  dances.  The  women  are  subjected  to  mu- 
tilation of  the  two  first  joints  of  the  little  finger  of  the  left  hand. 
This  operation  is  performed  when  they  are  very  young,  and 
is  done,  it  is  said,  under  the  idea  that  these  joints  of  the  little 
finger  are  in  the  way  when  they  wind  their  fishing  lines  over 
the  hand.  While  fishing  the  women  sing.  Those  who  occupy 
the  sea-coast  live  chiefly  on  fish,  which  they  roast,  for  they  are 
ignorant  of  the  effect  of  fire  upon  water.  X  story  is  told  of 
a  shipwrecked  sailor,  who  obtained  among  them  the  reputation 
of  a  sorcerer,  by  boiling  a  potfull  of  water. 

The  men  do  not  confine  tiiemselves  to  one  wife,  but  live 
with  two  or  three ;  though  it  has  been  observed  that  the  first 


106  AUSTRALIA,    OR    NEW    HOLLAND. 

wife  claims  a  superiority  of  attacliment,  and  an  exclusive 
right  to  the  conjugal  embraces,  while  the  second,  or  the  one 
last  chosen,  was  compelled  to  be  the  drudge  and  slave  of 
both. 

Between  the  ages  of  ten  and  twelve,  both  males  and  females 
undergo  the  operation  which  they  call  Inaonoong,  viz.,  that  of 
having  the  nose  perforated  to  receive  a  reed  or  bone,  which  by 
them  is  considered  a  great  ornament.  It  is  a  common  prac- 
tice, also,  to  gash  their  bodies  and  to  knock  out  one  or  two  of 
their  front  teeth.  An  English  trader  once  made  a  large  profit 
by  selling  in  London  a  quantity  of  these  teeth  for  the  use  of 
the  dentists. 

Their  habits  are  unsociable ;  they  talk  very  little  even 
among  themselves,  and  never  permit  any  one  to  joke  or  laugh 
with  them.  Nor  is  their  character  more  alluring  in  other 
respects  ;  to  lie,  cheat,  and  steal  are  practices  almost  univer- 
sal, and  owners  of  sheep,  and  isolated  settlers  often  suffer  from 
their  depredations.  This  is  not  because  they  do  not  know  any 
better,  for  their  ideas  of  property  are  very  distinct,  and  they 
never  steal  from  one  another.  They  are  proud  and  insolent, 
and  nothing  will  induce  them  to  acknowledge  any  human 
being  as  their  superior,  or  to  show  any  marks  of  respect. 
They  address  the  settlers  without  the  Mr.  prefixed  to  their 
names ;  and  on  entering  a  room,  they  never  salute  or  remain 
standing,  but  immediately  seat  themselves.  Jealousy  is  a 
prominent  feature  in  the  character  of  the  men.  The  husband 
who  suspects  another  of  seducing  his  wife,  either  kills  one  or 
both.  The  affair  is  taken  up  by  the  tribe,  if  the  party  belongs 
to  another,  and  the  manner  in  which  it  is  settled  is  as  fol- 
lows : — the  guilty  person  is  furnished  with  a  shield,*  and  the 

*  The  native  name  for  this  shield  is  Nicklemara.      It  is  made  of  the  bark  of  the 
gum-tree,  and  has  an  oval  shape. 


AUSTRALIA,    OR    NEW    HOLLAND.  107 

whole  tribe  which  he  has  insulted,  cast  their  spears  at  him — 
the  first  throw  being  made  by  the  member  most  injured. 

Their  mode  of  making  war  is  peculiar.  The  aggrieved 
tribe  assemble  and  consult  relative  to  the  course  to  be  pur- 
sued. This  having  been  decided  on,  a  messenger  is  dispatched 
to  announce  their  intention  to  commence  hostilities  to  the 
opposite  party,  and  fix  upon  a  day  for  the  combat.  The 
latter  immediately  proceed  to  make  all  the  necessary  prepara- 
tions for  the  approaching  contest ;  and  on  the  day  assigned, 
both  parties  take  the  field,  accompanied  by  the  women.  The 
first  onset  is  made  by  the  oldest  woman  abusing  and  taunting 
the  opposite  side.  Then  a  warrior  or  two  advance,  and  com- 
mence throwing  spears  at  each  other.  This  exchange  of 
missiles  continues  sometimes  for  a  whole  day,  and  generally 
ends  without  any  fatal  consequences,  for  the  warriors  are 
picked  men,  and  are  celebrated  for  their  skill  in  avoiding  mis- 
siles with  their  shields.  When  a  warrior  of  either  party  is 
killed,  the  fight  ceases,  explanations  are  made,  and  the  parties 
meet  amicably  to  bury  the  dead  ;  after  which  they  all  join  in 
the  performance  of  a  dance  called  Corrohory. 

They  make  use  of  two  weapons  which  we  have  not  seen 
elsewhere — the  Dundernel  and  the  Boomereng,  The  former 
has  a  flat  curved  handle,  about  two  feet  in  length,  and  in 
its  general  appearance  resembles  a  hatchet.  It  is  thrown 
from  the  hand  before  coming  to  close  quarters.  The  Boome- 
reng is  a  flat  stick,  three  feet  long  and  two  inches  wide, 
crooked  in  the  centre,  forming  an  angle  of  fifty  degrees.  It 
is  an  implement  used  both  for  war  and  in  the  chase,  and  can 
be  thrown  by  the  natives  with  great  precision. 

As  might  be  expected,  a  people  so  ignorant  as  the  Austra- 
lians, must  also  be  very  superstiticfUs.  When  the  wind  groans 
over  the  hills,  they  imagine  it  to  be  the  voice  of  an  evil  spirit. 


108  AUSTRALIA,    OR    NEW    HOLLAND. 

and  build  fires  about  their  habitations  to  drive  the  evil  one 
away.  A  grave  placed  before  the  door  of  a  house  is  a  safe- 
guard against  thieves.  When  beneath  a  rock  they  will  not 
whistle,  because  they  say  this  will  cau'se  the  rock  to  fall  upon 
them ;  of  thunder  and  lightning,  they  are  likewise  much 
afraid,  and  believe  that  by  chanting  certain  words  and  breath- 
ing hard  they  can  dispel  it. 

Of  their  opinions  with  respect  to  a  future  state  we  had  very 
defective  information.  They  spoke  of  some  place  which  they 
believed  to  be  the  abode  of  the  dead,  but  we  could  not  learn 
that  they  had  any  idea  of  rewards  and  punishments.  Their 
ideas  of  a  deity  are  distinct — they  believe  in  a  being  who  is 
all  powerful,  who  created  themselves  and  their  country,  and 
delights  in  giving  them  all  the  good  things  of  this  world  which 
they  enjoy. 

There  are  other  English  settlements  in  New  Holland  be- 
sides that  of  New  South  Wales,  but  as  our  ships  did  not  visit 
them,  I  am  unable  to  give  any  detailed  description  of  them. 


^^ 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE.  109 


CHAPTER  X. 

**  Uptorn,  reluctant,  from  its  oozy  cave, 
The  ponderous  anchor  rises  o'er  the  wave." 

ANTARCTIC     CRUISE. 

December  26th.  At  an  early  hour  this  morning  the 
squadron  sailed  from  Sydney,  on  an  exploring  cruise  in  the 
Antarctic  Ocean. 

We  have  not  visited  a  place  since  we  left  the  United  States 
with  which  we  have  been  so  well  pleased,  as  the  capital  of 
New  South  Wales.  We  received  the  most  marked  attention 
while  on  shore,  and  had  daily  invitations  from  the  inhabitants 
to  partake  of  their  hospitalities.  His  Excellency  the  Gover- 
nor sought  an  early  opportunity  to  invite  Captain  Wilkes  and 
a  number  of  the  other  officers,  to  come  and  spend  several  days 
with  him  at  his  residence  in  Paramatta.  The  officers  of  the 
50th  Regiment  gave  us  a  splendid  dinner,  and  the  Australian 
Club  another.  In  short,  everything  was  done,  both  by  the 
authorities  and  citizens,  to  render  our  visit  a  pleasant  one. 

December  27th  and  28th.  During  these  two  days  nothing 
of  much  interest  occurred.  In  the  afternoon  of  the  27th  we 
saw  several  albatrosses,  and  during  the  night  the  sea  appeared 
uncommonly  phosphorescent.  Our  observations  place  us  in 
latitude  36°  48'  00''  south,  and  151°  00'  00"  east.  The  wind 
is  from  the  eastward,  and  the  weather  is  pleasant. 

December  29th.  The  mechanics  have  been  engaged  this 
day  in  securing  the  ship  from  the  cold,  boisterous  weather 


110  ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 


which  we  may  very  soon  expect  to  encounter.  The  hatches 
have  had  casings  built  around  them,  furnished  with  doors,  the 
seams  of  the  ports  are  caulked  and  covered  with  tarred  can- 
vas and  sheet-lead,  and  a  stove  has  been  put  up  on  the  gun- 
deck,  which  is  to  answer  the  double  purpose  of  warming  the 
ship  and  drying  the  wet  clothing.  The  temperature  of  the 
ship  is,  I  understand,  to  be  regulated  by  a  thermometer,  and 
is  never  to  be  higher  than  60®,  in  order  that  the  crew  may  be 
compelled  to  take  exercise,  w^hich  is  very  necessary  in  cold 
latitudes.  The  weather  continues  pleasant,  and  the  nights  are 
beautifully  cleawr  and  starlight.  We  are  now  in  latitude 
S8°  35'  00''  south,  and  longitude  150°  55'  00"  east. 

January  2d.  There  has  been  a  great  change  in  the  ap- 
pearance and,  feeling  of  the  weather  within  the  last  twenty-four 
hours.  The  horizon  looks  threatening,  and  it  is  cold  enough 
to  make  one  feel  the  want  of  an  overcoat.  Owing  to  the  heavy 
mist  which  prevailed  during  the  night,  we  lost  sight  of  the 
schooner  "  Flying  Fish,''  and  we  have  spent  a  large  portion 
of  this  day  in  looking  for  her,  but  without  success.  This  has 
compelled  us  to  steer  for  Macquarie  Island,  the  first  ap- 
pointed place  for  the  squadron  to  meet  in  the  event  of  a  sepa- 
ration. 

January  3d.  The  fog  continues  very  thick,  and  we  have 
reason  to  believe  that  we  have  separated  from  the  "  Peacock," 
as  we  have  not  seen  her  since  this  morning.  Two  guns  were 
fired  about  noon,  in  hopes  that  she  might  hear  us.  According 
to  our  observations,  we  are  in  latitude  of  49°  25'  00"  south, 
and  159°  18'  00"  east.  The  weather  grows  cold,  and  the 
wind  blows  fresh  from  the  northward  and  eastward. 

January  4th  and  5th.  During  these  two  days  we  have  had 
much  rain,  accompanied  with  thunder  and  lightning.  A  vast 
number  of  Port  Egmont  hens,  petrils,  and  albatrosses,  and  one 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE.  Ill 

or  two  seals  have  been  seen.  The  fog  has  prevented  our  ob- 
taining any  astronomical  observations  for  ascertaining  our 
position.     The  wind  is  still  blowing  fresh  from  the  northeast. 

January  7th.  We  have  been  trying  all  this  day  to  reach 
Macquarie  Island,  supposed  to  be  about  thirty  miles  to  wind- 
ward of  us.  But  the  wind,  weather  and  current  being  against 
us,  we  have  been  obliged  ti.  give  it  up,  and  are  now  steering 
for  Emerald  Island,  our  second  rendezvous.  During  the 
greater  part  of  the  forenoon  the  mist  was  so  dense  that  we 
were  unable  to  see  the  "  Porpoise,"  although  she  was  not 
more  than  six  hundred  yards  from  us.  The  temperature  now 
is  below  40°.  Our  observations  make  the  latitude  to  be 
54°  17'  38''  south,  and  longitude  160°  68'  00"  east.  Since 
sunset  the  wind  has  moderated,  and  the  sky  appears  much 
more  promising  than  it  has  done  for  some  days  past. 

January  9th.  This  morning  we  passed  the  locality  given 
on  the  chart  to  Emerald  Island,  but  saw  nothing  of  it.  We 
therefore  concluded  that  the  chart  is  incorrect.  A  great 
number  of  gray  petrils  have  been  seen,  and  we  have  also 
passed  several  patches  of  kelp.  The  barometer  stands  at 
30.00  inches,  but  the  thermometer  has  fallen  to  32°,  and  the 
atmosphere  is  very  raw. 

January  10th.  We  encountered  to-day,  for  the  first  time, 
several  icebergs  and  some  drift-ice ;  the  former  were  several 
miles  in  circumference,  but  there  was  nothing  very  striking  in 
their  shape.  The  sea  beat  against  their  sides,  and  produced 
a  noise  similar  to  that  ma^e  by  breakers.  A  dense  fog  has 
succeeded  to  the  clear  weather  we  had  yesterday.  Our  lati- 
tude is  61°  07'  00"  south,  longitude  162°  32'  00"  east. 

January  11th.  There  has  been  a  great  number  of  ice- 
bergs in  sight  this  day.  We  estimate  several  to  be  five  miles 
long  and  three  hundred  feet   in  height.     They  all  had  flat 


112  ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 


tops,  with  sides  full  of  cavities,  caused  by  the  waves  dashing 
against  them. 

About  9  P.  M.,  we  passed  to  the  eastward  of  a  point  of 
field-ice,^  which  proved  to  be  the  edge  of  a  "  barrier ;"  stood 
in  to  the  southward  until  10.35  P.  M.,  whefi  we  found  our- 
selves completely  embayed,  having  solid  ice  as  far  as  could  be 
seen  from  the  mast-heads,  except  to  the  northward.  We  are 
now  "  hove-to"  to  wait  for  daylight.  The  barometer  con- 
tinues to  stand  at  30.00  inches,  though  the  wind  has  hauled 
around  to  the  westward,  and  the  temperature  is  two  degrees 
colder  than  yesterday.  According  to  our  observations  the  lati- 
tude is  64°  10'  00''  south,  and  longitude  164°  31'  00"  east. 

January  13th.  At  early  dawn  we  made  sail,  and  com- 
menced to  work  along  the  "  barrier"  to  the  westward.  About 
9  P.  M.,  it  being  very  foggy,  we  lost  sight  of  the  ''  Porpoise," 
and  have  not  seen  her  since.  The  temperature  is  now  30°, 
and  our  decks  and  rigging  are  covered  with  ice.  A  great 
number  of  icebergs  have  been  seen,  and  owing  to  the  thickness 
of  the  weather,  we  came  very  near  running  into  several.  The 
latitude  by  "dead  reckoning"  at  meridian  was  64°  08'  00" 
south,  longitude  165°  27'  00"  east. 

January  14th.  The  weather  continues  thick  and  disagree- 
able, but  the  wind  has  shifted  to  the  northward  and  westward. 
About  noon  the  fog  lifted  for  a  short  time,  and  we  counted 
.sixty  icebergs  in  sight.  They  excited  much  curiosity,  as  they 
presented  a  magnificent  spectacle.  Every  fantastic  form  and 
variety  of  tint  was  there.  Masses,  assuming  the  shape  of  a 
Gothic  church,  with  ai'ched  windows  and  doors,  and  all  the 
rich  drapery  of  that  style,  composed,  apparently,  of  crystal, 
showing  all  the  shades  of  opal,  or  of  emerald  green ;  pillars 
and  inverted  cones,  pyramids  and  mounds  of  every  shape, 

♦  A  piece  of  ice  so  large  that  its  extent  cannot  be  seen. 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE.  113 


valleys  and  lakes,  domes  supported  by  round  transparent 
columns  of  cerulian  hue,  and  cities  and  palaces  as  white  as  the 
purest  alabaster.  The  liveliest  imagination  could  not  paint 
to  itself  a  scene  more  rich  and  grand,  and  we  stood  gazing 
at  it  with  astonishment  and  admiration  until  it  was  again 
enveloped  in  the  fog. 

January  16th.  Towards  noon  the  wind  shifted  to  the 
northward,  and  at  8  P.  M.,  to  the  southward  and  eastward, 
when  it  also  became  very  light.  Weather,  during  the  first 
part,  tliick  ;  during  the  latter  part,  mild  and  pleasant.  In  the 
afternoon  sounded  with  250  fathoms  line — no  bottom.  Tem- 
perature at  that  depth  31°,  the  same  as  at  the  surface.  Dur- 
ing the  day  passed  through  great  quantities  of  drift  ice ;  saw 
several  whales,  a  seal,  and  a  great  number  of  snow-birds. 
Latitude  at  noon  66°  00'  02''  south,  longitude  156°  02'  00" 
east. 

January  17th.  Commenced  with  hght  airs  from  the  south- 
ward, and  thick  weather.  Lay- to  from  1  to  3.30  A.M.,  w^hen 
it  cleared  off.  At  4  P.  M.  the  wind  shifted  again  to  the  west- 
ward. At  6.15  P.  M.  we  descried  two  sail — one  to  wind- 
ward and  the  other  to  leeward — proved  to  be  the  "  Peacock '' 
and  "  Porpoise;'^  passed  several  icebergs  of  a  pinnacle-shape. 
We  have  now  reached  the  latitude  of  66°  26  00"  south,  and 
our  nights  are  only  four  hours  long.  The  weather  has  be- 
come more  mild  since  the  fog  has  disappeared,  and  being 
able  to  see  our  way  among  the  ice-islands,  we  are  making  a 
fine  progress. 

January  19th.  Yesterday  nothing  worthy  of  notice  tran- 
spired. This  morning  we  found  ourselves  in  a  large  bay ;  the 
"  Peacock"  was  in  sight,  and  appeared  to  be  standing  to  the 
westward.  The  water  has  a  green  appearance,  but  we  have 
not  been  able  to  obtain  bottom      It  is  believed  by  many  of  us 


114  ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 


that  we  are  in  the  vicinity  of  land ;  saw,  in  the  course  of  the 
afternoon,  several  whales,  and  a  flock  of  petrels  of  a  species 
difierent  from  any  heretofore  observed  by  us.  For  the  past 
three  hours  appearances  have  been  visible  both  to  the  south- 
east and  southwest  which  very  much  resemble  mountains.* 

January  20th.  Last  night  we  witnessed  a  magnificent 
Aurora  Australis.  It  rose  in  the  south — a  sort  of  semi-arch 
of  light — and  then  across  the  heavens  in  almost  every  direc- 
tion, darted  columns  of  a  luminous  character.  The  light  was 
so  bright  that  we  could  see  to  read  the  finest  print  with  ease. 
In  half  an  hour  it  had  all  disappeared.  The  weather  is  still 
mild.  Saw  several  sperm-whales,  and  a  fiock  of  ice-pigeons, 
of  which  we  were  fortunate  enough  to  obtain  specimens. 

January  22d.  At  3  P.  M.  the  wind  came  out  from  the 
southward.  Towards  noon  we  stood  along  a  line  of  icebergs, 
the  surface  of  which  was  of  a  yellowish  color.  We  also  re- 
marked about  the  same  time,  that  the  water  had  become  very 
much  discolored.  A  flock  of  ducks  were  also  seen.  Latitude 
in  at  noon  66""  12'  26"  south,  longitude  149°  W  00''  east. 
Temperature  of  air  25°,  water  31°.  After  sunset  the  wind 
shifted  again  to  the  southward  and  westward. 

January  23d.  The  weather  continues  mild  and  pleasant. 
At  12.30  P.  M.  tacked  ship  to  the  southward  and  eastward  to 
clear  the  ''barrier"  of  ice,  which  bore  east-by-south.  At 
2  P.  M.  a  large,  deep  bay  showed  itself  to  the  southward, 
which  we  entered,  and  soon  after  observed  appearances  of 
land,  both  to  the  eastward  and  westward.  By  midnight  we 
again  reached  the  "  barrier,"  and  therefore  were  compelled  to 
stand  back.     Numerous  birds  were  seen  about  the  ship. 

♦The  same  appearances  were  observed  by  the  "  Peacock  "  and  the  "  Porpoise,"  and 
It  is  now  fully  established  that  they  were  high  land,  and  formed  a  part  of  the  An- 
tarctic continent  discovered  by  the  Expedition. 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE.  115 

January  25th.  To-day  the  crew  has  been  employed  in 
filling  up  the  tanks  with  ice,  obtained  from  an  iceberg  which 
was  towed  alongside.  Those  who  have  used  the  water  pro- 
cured by  this  method,  represent  it  as  being  of  an  excellent 
quality.  Each  piece  was  allowed  U  remain  on  deck  some 
time  for  the  salt  water  to  drain  oft.  In  the  afternoon  we 
landed  on  the  solid  ice,  and  took  some  magnetic  observations. 
We  are  once  more  steering  to  the  southward.  Latitude  in  at 
noon  67°  04'  37''  south,  longitude  147°  42'  00"  east.  Tem- 
perature of  air  26°,  water  29°. 

January  28th.  During  these  twenty-four  hQurs  we  fell  in 
with  the  "Porpoise,"  and  communicated  with  her.  We 
found  both  officers  and  crew  well  and  in  good  spirits.  We 
received  from  her  some  specimens — among  others  the  skins  of 
two  sea-elephants.  The  wind  is  now  blowing  fresh  from  the 
southward  and  eastward,  and  the  weather  has  again  become 
very  thick.  The  cold  is  intense,  and  coffee  has  been  served  to 
the  crew  at  the  commencement  of  each  watch,  which  is  found 
very  warming  and  refreshing. 

January  29th.  The  weather  continues  unfavorable.  At 
9.45  A.  M.,  the  fog  lifted,  and  we  again  discovered  high  land 
a-head.  We  steered  for  it  by  the  most  open  route,  but  after 
a  run  of  about  forty  miles,  we  were  obliged  to  retrace  our 
course.  We  found  ourselves  beset  by  ice-islands  and  floe- 
ice,*  while  at  times  the  fog  was  so  dense  that  the  largest  objects 
could  not  be  seen  through  it.  At  10  P.  M.,  the  wind  blew  very 
fresh,  and  we  had  many  narrow  escapes.  We  passed  so  near 
several  of  the  bergs,  that  we  could  distinctly  hear  the  waves 
dashing  against  their  sides.  Latitude  in  by  "  dead  reckoning '' 
65°  28'  00"  south ;  longitude  140°  45'  00"  east.  Tempera- 
ture of  air  28°.     We  are  now  hove-to,  it  being  too  dark  to  run, 

*  A  piece  of  ice  of  considerable  size,  but  the  extent  of  which  can  be  distinguished. 


116  ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 


January  30th.  Early  this  morning  we  discovered  more 
land  to  the  southward  and  westward.  It  was  several  thou- 
sand feet  high,  and  extended  to  the  east  and  west  as  far  as 
the  eye  could  reach.  We  steered  for  it  under  all  sail,  intend- 
ing, if  possible,  to  effect  a  landing  upon  some  part  of  its  coast ; 
but  by  8  o'clock  we  reached  the  icy  barrier,  and  thus  were 
the  third  time  compelled  to  turn  back.  How  very  provoking ! 
We  found  our  latitude  to  be,  when  nearest  to  the  barrier, 
66°  38'  00''  south  ;  longitude  140°  00'  00"  east.  Depth  of 
water  was  twenty-five  fathoms — the  color,  a  yellowish  cast,  or 
dirty  green.  Two  ledges,  composed  of  volcanic  rock,  were 
distinctly  seen  ;  we  also  observed  some  columns  bearing  south, 
which  had  the  appearance  of  volcanic  smoke.  To  the  west- 
ward of  our  position  were  numerous  icebergs,  which  appeared 
to  be  aground.  In  the  course  of  the  afternoon,  the  wind, 
which  in  the  morning  had  been  moderate,  freshened  to  a  gale ; 
and,  by  6  o'clock,  we  called  all  hands,  and  reduced  sail  to  a 
close-reefed  main-topsail  and  fore-storm  staysail.  The  cold 
is  very  severe,  and  a  number  of  the  "  look  outs  "  have  been 
badly  frozen. 

January  31st.     There  is  no  improvement  in  the  weather. 

February  1st.  Last  night  the  gale  abated,  and  we  are  now 
favored  with  mild,  pleasant  weather.  How  grateful  this  feels 
after  the  stormy  scenes  we  have  passed  through  within  the 
last  forty-eight  hours  !  Our  sick-list  the  last  week  has  been 
very  large.  The  fleet-surgeon  attributes  it  to  the  climate,  and 
has  recommended  to  Captain  Wilkes  to  return  north.*  Many 
of  the  men  are  aifected  with  boils,  which  renders  them  almost 
useless.    Rheumatic  affections  are  also  exceedingly  prevalent. 

February  3d.  On  this  day  we  experienced  another  severe 
storm. 

*  This  recommendation  was  not  listened  to. 


ANTARCTIC    CRr  ISE.  117 

During  the  4th5  Sth,  and  6th,  the  weather  continued  unfa- 
vorable. 

On  the  Tth,  we  had  clear  weather  and  made  very  good  pro- 
gress. The  Antarctic  Continent  was  several  times  in  sight  in 
the  course  of  the  day,  and  a  point  of  it,  situated  in  latitude 
65°  48'  00''  south,  and  longitude  131°  40'  00"  east,  was 
named  Cape  Carr,  after  the  first-lieutenant  of  this  ship. 
The  health  of  the  crew  is  improving. 

February  11th.  We  had  moderate  breezes  from  the  south- 
ward and  westward,  accompanied  with  snow  at  intervals. 
Great  numbers  of  penguins  and  petrels  seen  about  the  ship  ; 
also  a  flock  of  birds,  about  the  size  of  a  gray  plover,  having 
black  heads  and  bills,  a  white  ring  round  the  neck,  and  a 
small  white  spot  on  the  tail — the  rest  of  the  body  of  a  pale  ash 
color ;  their  flight  and  whistle  were  also  similar  to  the  plover. 
The  continent  was  in  sight  to  the  westward,  and  the  sea  quite 
smooth  and  studded  with  icebergs  of  every  variety  of  shape. 
During  the  night  we  hove-to,  it  being  very  dark. 

February  12th.  At  8  A.  M.,  we  made  sail.  At  1  P.  M., 
observed  a  range  of  mountains  covered  with  snow,  for  which 
we  steered  until  we  came  to  the  barrier  of  ice.  From  2  to 
4.30  P.  M.,  we  "  lay-to,"  in  hopes  of  discovering  an  opening 
by  which  we  could  get  near  the  land  ;  but  none  appeared.  As 
usual,  the  barrier  was  formed  of  solid  ice,  and  its  line  was 
nearly  straight.  Our  latitude  was  64°  56'  00"  south ;  longi- 
tude 112°  17'  00"  east.  At  4.45  sounded  with  150  fathoms 
line — thermometer  attached — temperature  at  that  depth  29°, 
at  the  surface  30°.  The  color  of  the  water  was  dirty  green. 
Current  there  was  none.  At  sunset  land  was  still  in  sight, 
bearing  from  southwest-by-south  to  west  half-north. 

February  14th.  The  weather  continues  pleasant.  At 
daylight  worked  up  for  the  clearest  passage,  and  stood  in  for 


118  ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 


the  continent  among  large  brash-ice,*  until  11.30  A.  M., 
when  the  masses  of  ice  became  so  thick  as  to  render  all  fur- 
ther approach  impossible.  We  were  compelled  to  put  the 
helm  up  and  wear  ship,  picking  our  way  out  through  passages 
not  more  than  thirty  feet  in  width.  We  saw  distinctly  from 
sixty  to  seventy  miles  of  coast,  and  a  mountain  in  the  interior, 
which  we  estimated  to  be  2,500  feet  in  height.  At  1  P.  M., 
we  effected  a  landing  on  an  iceberg,  and  found  imbedded  in  it 
sand,  gravel,  and  rocks.  These  last  ti  ere  several  feet  in  cir- 
cumference, and  composed  of  basalt  and  red  sandstone. 
Many  of  the  smaller  stones  were  brought  on  board,  and  they 
very  soon  disappeared,  for  every  one  was  anxious  to  possess 
themselves  of  a  piece  of  the  new  continent.  There  is  no 
doubt  in  my  mind,  but  that  this  mass  of  ice  had  once  been  a 
part  of  the  icy  barrier,  and  that  the  surface  now  exposed  to 
view  had  rested  on  the  bottom  of  the  sea.  Many  species  of 
zoophytes  were  seen  about  the  berg.  At  5  P.  M.,  the  boat 
returned,  leaving  on  the  ice  a  flag  flying,  with  a  bottle  con- 
taining orders  for  the  "  Peacock  "  and  "  Porpoise,"  which 
vessels  we  have  not  seen  for  the  past  three  weeks.  When  the 
boat  was  secured,  we  again  filled  away,  and  stood  to  the  west- 
ward. We  have  now  reached  the  longitude  of  105°  30'  00' 
east.     Temperature  of  air  26°,  water  30°. 

February  15th.  This  morning  the  wind  hauled  to  the 
southward  and  westward,  and  ever  since  the  weather  has  been 
cloudy  and  snowy.  All  the  ice  seen  to-day  has  been  dis- 
colored, more  or  less,  by  what  appeared  to  be  mud  and  gravel. 
Numerous  whales,  seals  and  penguins  have  been  about  the 
ship. 

January  lYth.     Last  night  another  display  of  the  Aurora 

♦  Ice  in  a  broke i  state,  and  in  guch  smaU  pieces  that  the  ship  can  easily  force 
through. 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE,  119 


Australis  was  observed  to  the  northward  and  westward.  It 
reached  to  the  zenith,  the  light  shooting  across  the  heavens  in 
columns  40°  or  50°  broad,  of  a  light-yellow  color,  slightly 
tinged  with  red,  and  moving  very  rapidly  from  east  towards 
west.  So  brilliant  and  remarkable  was  the  phenomenon,  that 
almost  every  person  in  the  ship  came  on  deck  to  witness  it. 
The  star  Canopus  was  in  the  zenith  at  the  time,  and  its 
brightness  appeared  much  diminished. 

At  2  P.  M.  we  landed  on  an  iceberg,  upon  which  were 
found  more  stones.  Upon  it  were  also  found  a  vast  number 
of  penguins,  and  several  were  captured  and  their  skins  pre- 
served for  the  government.  They  made  a  stout  resistance, 
biting  and  striking  those  who  seized  them  with  their  powerful 
flippers.  One  of  them  was  a  king  penguin,  and  he  could  only 
be  taken  by  knocking  him  down  with  a  boat-hook.  His  height 
was  22  inches,  and  the  circumference  of  the  body  45  inches. 
He  was  a  showy-looking  bird,  his  head  being  adorned  with 
bright  yellow  feathers,  resembling  a  graceful  plume.  We  also 
saw  in  the  afternoon  a  sea-elephant,  and  we  tried  our  best  to 
kill  him,  by  firing  into  him  no  less  than  sixteen  musket  balls, 
but  he  seemed  not  to  mind  them,  and  finally  disappeared. 
Appearances  of  land  have  also  been  seen  this  day.  The 
health  of  the  crew  continues  to  improve. 

February  20th.  We  have  now  light  breezes  from  the  west- 
ward. At  3.30  A.  M.  made  the  barrier  a-head,  and  on  the 
weather-bow  kept  off  and  set  all  sail.  At  4  one  hundred 
icebergs  wfere  counted  in  sight  from  aloft.  At  6  made  the 
barrier  again,  bearing  southwest-by-west ;  shortened  sail,  and 
hauled  on  a  wind.  At  11.30  lowered  a  boat  to  try  the  cur- 
rent, but  found  none;  at  the  same  time  sounded  with  850 
fathoms  line — no  bottom  ;  temperature  at  that  depth  35°,  at 
the  surface  31°.     Our  longitude  at  noon  was  101°  46'  00'' 


120  ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 


east,  latitude  62°  08'  05"  south.  The  sea  is  quite  smooth, 
and  the  surface  is  covered  with  shrimps. 

February  21st.  This  morning  Captain  Wilkes  announced 
to  the  officers  and  crew  his  intention  to  bear-up  and  return 
north.  The  intelligence  was  received  with  much  rejoicing, 
for  we  all  felt  worn  out  with  fatigue  and  exposure.  He  also 
called  aft  all  hands,  and  thanked  them  for  the  assistance  they 
aiforded  him,  and  in  addition  he  promised  the  sailors  that  he 
would  use  his  utmost  exertions  to  obtain  extra  pay  for  them. 

On  the  11th  of  March,  at  1.30  P.  M.,  we  again  dropped 
our  anchor  at  Fort  Macquarie,  Sydney.  Here  we  found  the 
"  Peacock."  She  arrived  a  few  days  before,  and  was  now 
undergoing  repairs,  having  sustained  heavy  damages  during 
her  late  cruise  by  coming  in  contact  with  large  masses  of  ice. 
We  also  heard  here  of  the  arrival  at  Hobart  Town,  Van 
Dieman's  Land,  of  the  French  Expedition,*  commanded  by 
Admiral  D'Urville. 

We  remained  at  Sydney  until  the  19th  of  March.  We 
then  took  our  departure  for  New  Zealand,  where  we  arrived 
after  a  pleasant  passage  of  eleven  days.  The  "  Peacock  "  re- 
ceived orders  to  follow  as  soon  as  her  repairs  were  completed. 

*  In  1837  the  French  Government  sent  out  an  Expedition  under  Rear- Admiral  D'Ur- 
ville, an  eminent  explorer,  who  had  already  made  three  voyages  round  the  world. 
Two  corvettes,  the  "Astrolabe"  and  "Zelee,"  sailed  from  Toulon,  and  by  the  end 
of  the  year  had  followed  Waddell's  track  in  the  Antarctic  Seas  until  they  were 
stopped  by  the  ice  between  the  63d  and  64th  parallels.  On  three  occasions  an  entrance 
was  forced  into  it,  but  they  were  driven  back  each  time,  and  forced  to  return. 
After  a  protracted  cruise  in  Polynesia  and  the  Indian  Archipelago,  p'Urville  resolved 
to  make  another  attempt  to  get  to  the  south,  and  touched  at  Hobart  Town  in  a  dis- 
tressed condition,  having  lost  three  officers  and  thirteen  men  by  dysentery.  He  sailed 
January  1st,  1840,  his  special  aim  being  to  approach  or  reach  the  magnetic  or  ter- 
restial  pole.  On  the  21st  he  was  surrounded  by  numerous  ice-islands,  and  saw  a 
lofty  line  of  coast  covered  with  snow,  stretching  from  southwest  to  northwest,  ap- 
parently without  limit.  With  some  difficulty  a  landing  was  eftected,  and  not  being 
aware  of  our  discovery  two  days  before,  possession  was  taken  in  the  name  of  France, 
and  the  land  was  called  La  Terra  Adelie,  after  the  wife  of  the  discoverer. 


NEW    ZEALAND.  121 


CHAPTER  XI. 

NEW     ZEALAND.* 

On  the  morning  of  the  30th  of  March,  having  made  New 
Zealand,  we  tacked  ship  and  by  10.30  V.  M.,  "  came  to  "  in 
the  Bay  of  Islands  in  five  fathoms  water.  Both  the  "  Por- 
poise "  and  the  "  Flying  Fish  "  were  found  at  anchor  here. 
The  former  reported  that,  after  parting  from  ns,  she  coasted 
along  the  solid  barrier  of  ice  several  hundred  miles,  seeking  in 
vain  for  an  opening  by  which  to  approach  the  land  beyond  the 
barrier;  that  she  passed  many  icebergs  in  which  were  im- 
bedded gravel  and  boulders ;  also,  that  she  fell  in  with  the 
French  exploring  squadron,  and  attempted  to  speak  with  the 
admiral's  ship  (''  Astrolabe "),  but  when  they  had  almost 
reached  her,  she  tacked  ship  and  stood  away — thereby  declin- 
ing any  communication. 

The  "  Flying  Fish  "  experienced  very  severe  weather,  by 
which  her  safety  was  much  endangered,  but  she  did  not  dis- 
cover any  land.  The  Bay  of  Islands  is  very  capacious,  and 
affords  excellent  anchorage  to  vessels  of  all  classes.  It  is 
studded  with  many  islands,  and  hence  the  name.  These 
islands  are  of  a  very  irregular  figure,  and  destitute  of  vegeta- 
tion. The  bay  has  been  surveyed  several  times  by  the  French, 
and  we  believe  very  thoroughly.     It  is  ten  miles  from  head  to 

•  The  two  islands  that  go  by  the  name  of  New  Zealand  are  situated  between  the 
latitude  34'  2-2'  00"  and  47°  25'  00'  south,  and  between  the  longitude  166'  00'  00"  and 
180°  00'  00"  east. 


122  NEW    ZEALAND. 


head.  The  shores  are  divided  into  steep  cliiFs  and  heads, 
with  intermediate  beaches.  Its  anchorages  are  numerous,  but 
those  which  are  now  more  generally  used  are  the  River  Rawa 
Kawa  and  the  Bay  of  Kororakia  ;  they  are  preferred  on 
account  of  the  convenience  they  afford  for  watering,  repairing, 
and  communicating  with  the  shore. 

The  adjacent  country  is  hilly,  and  much  more  barren  than 
productive,  the  soil  containing  too  great  a  quantity  of  clay  to 
be  good.  The  vegetation  consists  of  fern,  a  few  stunted  trees 
and  patches  of  brush,  close-set,  and  almost  impenetrable. 
The  soil  in  the  interior  of  the  island  is  richer,  and  produces 
various  natural  productions,*  some  of  which  are  extremely 
valuable.  The  flax-plant,  which  is  indigenous,  meets  the  eye 
in  every  direction.  It  is  converted  by  the  natives  to  a  variety 
of  purposes.  It  supplies  them  with  excellent  materials  for 
clothing,  cordage,  and  fishing-nets,  and  the  preparation  being 
simple,  requires  very  little  trouble. 

There  are  many  English  and  some  French  who  have  settled 
in  this  part  of  New  Zealand.  They  are  mostly  ship-carpen- 
ters and  farmers.  They  live  in  houses  built  in  the  European 
style,  and  cultivate  corn,  potatoes,!  onions,  &c.,  &c.,  for 
which  they  always  find  a  ready  market  among  the  shipping. 

Pahia,  the  Episcopal  mission  establishment,  is  situated  on 
the  west  side  of  the  Bay,  and  commands  a  beautiful  water- 
prospect,  and  is  the  residence  of  all  those  connected  with  the 
mission.  About  five  miles  further  toward  the  north  is  the  site 
chosen  by  the  British  governmentf  for  the  future  City  of 

*  Pines  are  here  to  be  met  with  soaring  to  a  height  which  leaves  no  similarity 
between  them  and  the  tallest  that  ever  grow  on  the  pine-lands  of  the  United  States. 
Here  are  also  several  kinds  of  trees  admirably  well  adapted  for  ornamental  work. 

t  The  potato  was  introduced  by  Captain  Cook.  It  has  been  cultivated  ever  SSnce 
his  visit,  and  is  now  very  abundant. 

I  A  few  weeks  previous  to  our  arrival  at  the  Bay  of  Islands,  Captat  Hcibson,  of 
the  Royal  Navy,  called  a  meeting  of  all  the  principal  chiefs,  and  efc    :d  a  treaty 


NEW    ZEALAND.  123 


Victoria.  It  is  not  a  pleasant  location,  nor  is  the  anchorage 
as  good  as  some  others  in  the  bay. 

The  Aborigines  of  New  Zealand  are  of  good  size,  well 
fornted,  and  have  fine  eyes,  but  their  noses  are  inclined  to  be 
flat,  the  nostrils  large  and  thin,  and  their  mouths  wide.  Both 
men  and  women  have  their  faces  elaborately  tattooed,  which 
gives  them  a  striking  appearance.  Their  hair  is  straight, 
coarse,  and  black.  The  complexion  varies  from  dark  olive  to 
copper-color.  Their  dress  formerly  consisted  of  mats  made 
of  flax  and  skins,  but  now  they  generally  wear  trowsers  and 
jackets  ;  some  wear  hats,  but  we  saw  none  who  made  use  of 
shoes.  The  females  wear  a  loose  petticoat  made  of  blue  na*n- 
keen  or  calico.  They  all  have  their  ears  bored,  and  wear  ear- 
rings made  of  sharks'  teeth,  tipped  with  small  bright-colored 
feathers.  The  chiefs  and  their  wives  wear  round  their  necks 
what  is  termed  "  heitiki,"*  an  ornament  which  the  common 
people  are  not  permitted  to  use,  and  which  is  handed  down 
from  father  to  son.  Fish,  potatoes  and  shells  constitute  the 
chief  articles  of  their  diet.  Meat  they  seldom  or  never  use, 
except  on  important  occasions.  Their  fishing-tackle  does  not 
differ  materially  from  that  which  is  used  by  the  Tahitians  and 
Samoa  people.  When  a  party  has  fixed  upon  a  place  where  they 
intend  to  haul  the  seine,  they  taboof  it — that  is,  they  prohibit 
others  from  fishing  upon  the  same  place.  When  they  take  a 
greater  number  of  fish  than  they  can  consume  at  once,  they 

with  them,  which  made  a  cession  of  their  lands,  authority  and  persons  to  Queen 
Victoria.  We  were  told  by  the  French  and  American  residents  that  at  first  a  largd" 
number  of  chiefs  were  opposed  to  the  treaty,  but  had  been  gained  over  by  presents 
of  powder  and  rum. 

Since  the  above  was  writen,  the  whole  island  has  p  "ssed  into  the  hands  of  England, 
and  Lord  Derby's  administration  conferred  upon  the  colonists  a  free  constitution. 

♦  The  Heitiki  is  made  of  a  stone  of  a  green  color  found  on  the  borders  of  a  smaU 
lake,  called  Terrai  Pounamu. 

t  The  Taboo  laws  are  strictly  observed,  even  among  those  who  have  become  Chris- 
tians, and  are  always  resorted  to,  to  protect  their  property. 


124  NEW    ZEALAND. 


dry  them  on  hot  stones,  by  which  means  they  keep  a  long 
time.  That  they  may  better  protect  themselves  against  their 
enemies,  they  build  their  villages  on  the  tops  of  the  highest 
hills,  and  surround  them  with  palisades  and  trenches.  They 
are  said  to  have  improved  in  the  construction  of  their  houses, 
but  there  is  still  great  room  for  improvement ;  they  are  yet 
small,  low,  and  very  filthy.  Their  furniture  consists  of  a  few 
mats  and  baskets,  an  old  sea-chest  and  an  iron  pot  or  two,  in 
which  they  cook  their  food. 

The  New  Zealanders  are  industrious,  compared  with  most 
of  the  South  Sea  Islanders.  They  cultivate  a  surplus  of 
provisions  for  sale,  cut  timber,  clean  flax,  raise  pigs,  poultry, 
&c.,  &c.  They  also  ship  as  sailors  on  board  of  whalers*  and 
other  vessels,  which  may  stand  in  need  of  their  services. 
They  are  apt  in  learning  the  names  of  the  rigging,  and  are 
very  active  aloft. 

In  disposition  they  are  zealous,  revengeful,  and  cunning; 
but,  on  the  other  hand,  they  are  hospitable  and  generous  to 
strangers.  Their  courage  is  not  to  be  questioned.  Their 
wars  often  last  till  one  or  the  other  of  the  parties  are  exter- 
minated, and  it  is  said  that  the  horrible  custom  of  feasting  on 
the  flesh  of  their  prisoners  is  still  practised  by  the  tribes  who 
occupy  the  interior  of  the  island.  These  wars  are  oftejitimes 
occasioned  by  the  bad  conduct  of  single  individuals,  their 
crimes  being  charged  to  the  whole  tribe  to  which  they  may  be- 
long. The  tribes  who  live  about  the  Bay  of  Islands  are  well 
acquainted  with  the  use  of  money.  They  are  also  v/ell  ac- 
quainted with  fire-arms,  and  in  their  conflicts  prefer  them  to 
the  weapons  of  their  own  manufacture,  which  consist  of  spears 

♦  Whales  are  very  numerous  about  New  Zealan  and  a  great  number  of  vessels 
resort  there  to  engage  in  the  whaling  business.  Thr  American  vessels  ^lone  amount 
to  seventy  or  eighty  a  year 


NEW    ZEALAND.  125 


and  clubs.  Both  sexes  are  addicted  to  rum-drinking  and 
tobacco-chewing — bad  practices — which,  no  doubt,  they  have 
acquired  from  the  convicts  and  other  low  whites  who  have 
settled  among. them.  Suicide  is  very  common  among  all  the 
tribes.  A  woman  who  is  badly  treated  by  her  husband  will 
immediately  go  and  hang  herself.  This  is  also  frequently 
done  at  the  death  of  a  near  relative. 

Their  laws  are  simple,  clear,  and  few  in  number.  The 
most  important  ones  are  those  which  concern  the  division  of 
land.  The  lower  classes  are  perfectly  subordinate  to  their 
superiors,  whom  they  style  Etakatika  and  Epoda.  Here  is  a 
mode  of  government  entirely  analogous  to  that  which  prevails 
in  the  islands  of  the  Indian  Seas,  where  the  chief  authority  is 
vested  in  the  Rajah,  whose  rank  resembles  that  of  the  Areekee 
of  New  Zealand,  and  who  commands  the  services  of  the  pan- 
geran  or  heads  of  the  dusums,  or  villages.  These  latter  cor- 
respond exactly  with  the  subordinate  chiefs  above  mentioned, 
and  like  them  they  acknowledge  a  superior,  though,  with  re- 
spect to  their  possessions,  they  are  independent  of  his  control. 

The  religious  belief  of  those  who  have  not  embraced  Chris- 
tianity is  as  follows  : — That  they  are  surrounded  by  invisible 
spirits,  who  must  be  conciliated  by  prayers  and  ceremonies, 
as  they  have  power  over  the  elements,  and  can  at  any  time 
raise  the  wind  and  waves  against  them.  They  also  believe 
their  priests  to  be  prophets,  who  can  foretell  future  events, 
which  they  (the  priests  themselves)  pretend  have  been  com- 
municated to  them  directly  from  some  genii,  or  spirits,  which 
supposed  to  have  taken  them  under  their  especial  care. 

A  few  days  after  our  arrival,  Pomare,  the  chief  of  the 
town  of  Para,  paid  us  a  visit.  He  came  off  in  a  war-canoe, 
and  was  attended  by  forty  of  his  people,  men  and  women. 
He  was  a  tall,  well-formed  man,  and  I  should  judge  about 


126  NEW    ZEALAND. 


35  years  of  age.  His  dress  consisted  of  a  blue  naval  cap, 
with  a  gold -lace  band,  a  blanket  tied  around  his  neck, 
leaving  his  right  arm  free,  a  shirt,  and  a  pair  of  trowsers ;  his 
feet  were  bare.  In  his  hand  he  carried  a  short  cloak,  made 
of  dog-skins,  dressed  with  the  hair  on — it  is  his  state-dress. 
His  face  is  handsomely  tattooed,  though  its  expression  is  not 
a  pleasing  one.  He  is  a  great  beggar,  and  as  great  a  drunkard, 
and  is  said  to  openly  carry  on  the  infamous  traffic  in  women. 
The  females  who  accompanied  him  to  the  ship  were,  I  was 
informed,  his  wives,  and  one  or  two  of  them  were  quite  good- 
looking.  When  about  to  leave  the  ship.  Captain  Wilkes 
made  him  a  present  of  a  cutlass,  with  which  he  appeared 
much  pleased,  and  which  he  handed  over  to  his  favorite  wife 
for  safe  keeping. 

During  our  stay  at  the  Bay  of  Islands,  the  mean  tempera- 
ture was  65°.  The  prevailing  winds  were  from  the  southeast 
and  west.  From  what  I  could  learn  by  conversing  with  the 
foreign  residents,  the  climate  of  New  Zealand  is  best  suited 
to  a  European  constitution  of  any  in  the  south  seas.  The 
aboriginal  inhabitants  are  liable  to  rheumatism  and  consump- 
tion. The  venereal  disease  is  also  very  common  among  them, 
and  from  want  of  proper  medical  treatment,  it  but  too  fre- 
quently proves  fatal. 


TONGA    ISLAND.  127 


CHAPTER  XII. 

ISLAND     OF    TONGA. 

On  the  6th  of  April,  at  10  A.  M.,  the  squadron  sailed 
from  New  Zealand  for  the  Friendly  Islands.*  It  was  a  de- 
lightful day,  and  every  one  appeared  in  fine  spirits.  At  2.80 
we  discharged  the  pilot,  and  by  sunset  land  was  out  of  sight. 

On  the  13th  the  wind  shifted  to  the  southward  and  west- 
ward, and  was  accompanied  with  a  rough  sea,  which  caused 
the  ship  to  roll  heavily.  We  passed  over  the  position  assigned 
to  Roseta  Shoal,  but  could  not  find  anything  of  it. 

At  daylight,  April  14th,  we  made  Sunday  Island,  but  owing 
to  the  unfavorable  state  of  the  weather  we  did  not  attempt  to 
land  upon  it.  It  is  high  and  rugged,  and  showed  no  evidence 
of  being  inhabited  by  human  beings. 

During  the  15th  we  communioated  with  the  American 
whaler,  named  Tobacco  Plant.  She  had  been  out  two  years, 
and  during  that  time  had  captured  only  seven  whales.  The 
following  night  was  a  very  clear  one,  and  many  meteors  were 
observed,  some  of  which  left  broad,  luminous  tracks,  that  were 
visible  for  thirty  seconds  after  the  disappearance  of  the  bodies. 

On  the  19th  we  saw  a  water-spout.  It  commenced  forming 
about  a  third  of  a  mile  to  the  windward  of  the  ship,  and  the 
water,  for  many  yards  in  circumference,  appeared  in  great 
agitation,  flying  up  in  jets  to  the  height  of  forty  or  fifty  feet. 

*  This  cognomen  was  given  to  the  Torga  Islands  by  Captain  Cook,  who  expe- 
rienced great  kindness  from  the  natives. 


128  TONGA    ISLAND. 


It  had  considerable  motion,  and  crossed  the  ship's  bows,  but . 
did  not  proceed  more  than  two  or  three  miles  before  it  broke. 

During  the  21st  we  passed  through  large  "  fields  of  sperm- 
whale-feed,"  a  scummy-looking  substance,  floating  on  the  sur- 
face of  the  water,  and  of  a  color  nearly  red.  It  seems  almost 
impossible  that  so  immense  an  animal  could  subsist  on  food 
apparently  containing  so  little  nutriment.  We  were  now  in 
latitude  22°  45'  00"  south,  and  longitude  174°  50'  00"  east. 

At  2  P.  M.  on  the  24th  we  came-to  off  Nookualofa,  the 
principal  town  of  Tonga  Island,  and  the  station  of  the  Wes- 
leyan  Mission.  We  found  here  the  "  Flying  Fish,''  which 
had  separated  from  us  some  days  previous.  The  missionary 
gentlemen,  Messrs.  Tucker  and  Rabone,  paid  us-  a  visit  on  the 
same  afternoon,  and  from  them  we  learned  that  the  Christian 
and  heathen  parties  were  at  war*  with  each  other. 

About  sunset  a  large  double  canoe,  filled  with  warriors, 
arrived.  They  belonged  to  the  neighboring  islands,  Hapai 
and  Vavao,  and  came  to  assist  the  Christian  party.  This  was 
the  first  double  canoe  we  had  seen.  It  consisted  of  two  canoes 
joined  together  by  a  deck  thrown  across  them  both.  On  the 
deck  a  small  house  was  erected,  which  answered  as  a  cabin ; 
above  the  house  was  a  square  platform,  with  a  rail  around  it. 
The  mast  was  from  forty  to  fifty  feet  in  height,  and  carried  a 
long  yard,  upon  which  was  spread  a  triangular  sail  made  of 
matting.  It  was  steered  by  an  oar.  These  canoes  tack  and 
wear  in  all  weathers,  are  good  sea-boats,  and  sail  from  eight 
to  ten  miles  per  hour. 

April  25th.  It  is  reported  that  eight  heathen,  or  "  Devils," 
and  two  Christians  were  killed  last  night  in  a  skirmish,  which 

♦  Di  ring  our  stay  at  Nookualofa,  Captain  Wilkes  did  all  in  his  power  to  restore 
peace  between  the  parties,  but  without  success,  and  T  am  sorry  to  add  that  the  ('hris- 
tians  were  the  authors  of  the  principal  diffi  ulties  thrown  in  his  way. 


TONGA   ISLAND.  129 


took  place  between  five  hundred  of  the  latter,  who  had  gone 
out  to  work  upon  their  yam-patches,  and  about  an  equal  num- 
ber of  the  heathen.  These  last  out-numbered  the  Christians, 
but  the  latter  are  assisted  by  Yaufahau,  or  King  George  of 
Hapai  and  Vavao,  who  can  bring  in  the  field  800  fighting  men. 

About  10  A.  M.,  Captain  Wilkes,  accompanied  by  several 
of  the  officers,  left  the  ship  to  pay  a  visit  to  King  Josiah,  or 
Tubau,  who  resides  at  Nookualofa,  and  is  the  king  of  the 
Christian  party.  In  the  course  of  the  afternoon  another 
double-canoe  arrived,  having  one  hundred  of  King  George's 
warriors  on  board.  They  were  tall,  fine-looking  men,  and  all 
ready  for  meeting  the  enemy ;  some  being  armed  with  clubs, 
some  with  spears,  and  others  with  muskets.  They  had  their 
faces  painted  in  the  most  grotesque  manner  with  yellow,  red, 
black  and  white  stripes.  I  saw  several  with  a  red  nose, 
black  cheeks,  yellow  chin,  and  green  eyebrows. 

April  28th.  To-day  several  of  the  chiefs  of  the  heathen 
party  visited  the  ship.  According  to  their  statement  the 
Christians  are  entirely  in  the  fault.  "  They  assert  that  they 
did  not  commence  the  present  war,  but  that  they  were  forced 
into  it  by  the  Christians,  who  seemed  determined  to  exterminate 
them  unless  they  exchanged  the  belief  of  their  fathers  for  that 
of  the  new  religion.  They  also  complained  that  the  Christians 
endeavored  to  deprive  them  of  their  national  amusements,  by 
prohibiting  dancing  and  singing. 

In  the  afternoon  I  visited  Nookualofa.  It  is  pleasantly 
situated,  and  contains  from  five  to  six  hundred  houses.  It  is 
surrounded  by  an  embankment  composed  of  logs  and  earth, 
on  the  top  of  which  is  a  wicker-fence ;  on  the  outside  of  the 
intrenchment  is  a  ditch  about  twelve  feet  wide  by  six  feet 
deep.  There  are  three  principal  entrances,  which  are  very 
narrow  and  low,  and  have  loop-holes  on  either  side,  through 


130  TONGA    ISLAND. 


which  muskets  may  be  fired  in  case  of  an  attack.  The  build- 
ings are  of  elliptical  or  circular  form ;  they  are  divided  into 
two  or  three  apartments  by  matting  or  tapa  screens,  and  those 
of  the  better  class  look  clean  and  comfortable.  The  furniture 
consists  of  the  ava-bowl,*  a  box  containing  all  the  valuables 
of  the  family,  a  pile  or  two  of  mats,  serving  both  as  beds  and 
settees,  and  a  few  rolls  of  thin  tapa,  which  the  inmates  use  as 
a  covering  at  night,  and  to  protect  them  from  the  mosquitoes, 
which  are  not  only  very  abundant,  but  extremely  troublesome. 
The  house  of  King  Josiah  is  no  larger  nor  better  constructed 
than  those  of  his  subjects.  All  the  women  and  children  whom 
T  saw  were  nearly  white,  and  had  pleasing  features.  It  is  the 
custom  here  for  children  of  both  sexes  to  go  about  in  a  state 
of  nature.  In  the  outskirts  of  the  town  I  fell  in  with  several 
young  girls,  who  were  employed  in  making  tapa  cloth.  The 
mode  of  proceeding  was  as  follows  : — Each  piece  of  bark  was 
taken  singly,  and  laid  on  a  piece  of  wood  fifteen  or  twenty  feet 
long,  six  inches  square,  and  smooth  on  the  upper  side.  It 
was  then  beaten  with  a  mallet  of  hard,  heavy  wood,  about 
twenty  inches  in  length  by  three  inches  wide,  till  the  required 
extent  and  texture  were  produced.  Three  sides  of  this  piece 
of  wood  are  carved  in  ribs  or  grooves,  in  order  that  one  mallet 
may  answer  for  the  different  kinds  of  cloth  that  are  made. 
Sometimes  four  or  five  pieces  of  bark  are  necessary  to  make  one 
piece  of  cloth.  When  the  cloth  is  made  it  is  laid  out  in  thef 
sun,  where  it  soon  dries,  and  is  ready  for  use.  Two  of  these' 
girls  had  European  features,  with  jet-black  locks,  which  almost 

*  The  Ava  is  a  root  of  a  piinj^ent  and  an  intoxicating  nature,  with  which  the  men 
are  fond  of  indulging  themselves.  They  employ  young  girls  to  chew  it  for  them, 
and  spit  it  into  a  wooden  bowl  used  for  no  other  purpose  ;  after  which  a  small 
quantity  of  water  is  added  to  it,  when  the  juice  is  strained  into  cups  made  of 
cocoa  nut-shells,  and  passed  round  aming  them.  It  has  the  effect  of  making  the 
skin  fall  off  in  white  scales,  aftects  th  nerves  and  a})petite,  and  brings  on  a  pre- 
mature old  age. 


TONGA    ISLAND.  131 


reached  the  ground.  They  were  also  very  sociable,  and  gave 
me  to  understand  by  means  of  signs,  that  the  tapa  I  saw  them 
making,  was  intended  as  a  bridal  present  to  a  near  relative. 

April  29th.  At  2  P.  M.,  the  two  kings,  Josiah  and 
George,  came  to  the  Observatory  to  pay  a  visit  to  Captain 
Wilkes,  The  latter  is  about  forty  years  of  age,  and  is  a 
remarkably  fine-looking  man,  being  six  feet  and  upwards  in 
height,  with  regular  features,  a  dignified  mien,  and  a  very 
intelligent  face.  His  attire  consisted  simply  of  a  large  piece 
of  white  tapa  wound  round  his  waist  in  loose  folds,  hanging 
down  to  the  feet,  and  leaving  his  arms  and  breast  entirely 
bare.  He  is,  as  has  already  been  observed,  master  of  Hapai 
and  Vavoa,*  and  no  doubt  he  will  ere  long  possess  himself 
of  Tonga,  as  King  Josiah  is  represented  as  a  very  weak- 
minded  old  man,  and  caring  little  about  the  affairs  of  govern- 
ment. Their  majesties  were  attended  by  about  a  hundred  of 
their  warriors,  who  were  armed  and  painted  after  the  manner 
of  war.  Previous  to  returning  to  Nookualofa,  Captain  Wilkes 
brought  them  on  board  the  ship,  and,  after  treating  them  to  a 
lunch,  he  made  them  some  presents  in  the  name  of  the 
government.  Josiah,  or  Tubou,  is  a  son  of  Mumuz,  who  was 
king  in  the  time  of  the  celebrated  Captain  Cook.  He  is 
about  sixty  years  of  age,  but  he  appears  much  older. 

The  two  kings  had  scarcely  left  the  ship,  when  one  of  the 
heathen  who  had  been  alongside  for  the  purpose  of  trade, 
came  running  up  to  Lieutenant  Case  and  begged  him  to  get 
his  canoe,  which,  he  said,  two  of  George's  warriors  had  taken 
from  him  by  force.  The  circumstance  was  reported  by  Cap- 
tain Wilkes  to  King  George,  who  immediately  gave  orders  for 
the  canoe  to  be  returned  to  the  owner. 

*  These  islands  are  situated  about  thirty  miles  from  Tonga,  and  are  represented  as 
being  high,  and  subject  to  severe  storms.  The  inhabitauts  are  of  the  same  extraction 
as  the  Tongese. 


132  TONGA    ISLAND. 


May  1st.  At  11  this  morning,  the  "  Porpoise  "  arrived. 
In  the  afternoon  we  sent  for  the  pilot.  He  came  on  board, 
but  stated  that  he  could  not  take  us  to  sea,  because  he  had 
been  ordered  by  King  George  not  to  do  so.  Captain  Wilkes 
told  him  that  if  such  was  the  case  he  might  leave  the  ship. 
He  then  gave  orders  for  the  vessels  to  get  under-way,  and 
anchor  as  near  the  town  as  possible.  This  being  done,  Lieu- 
tenant Case  was  sent  to  call  on  his  majesty,  and  demand  an 
explanation  for  his  unfriendly  behavior.  In  a  few  minutes, 
Mr.  C.  returned,  and  reported  that  King  George  was  out 
fighting,  but  that  he  had  seen  King  Josiah,  who  assured  him 
that  George  had  no  desire  to  prevent  our  going  to  sea ;  that 
the  pilot  had  told  us  a  falsehood,  and  if  Captain  Wilkes 
wished  it,  he  would  have  him  punished.  We  are  now  con- 
vinced that  King  George  knew  nothing  of  the  matter,  and 
that  the  pilot's  story  was  the  result  of  fear,  he  having  heard 
another  pilot  say  that  if  the  ship  went  ashore  he  would  be 
hung.  He  therefore  did  not  wish  to  have  anything  to  do 
with  us,  and  supposed  by  pretending  to  act  under  the  orders 
of  the  king,  we  would  not  force  him  to  take  the  vessel  to  sea. 

May  2d.  To-day  King  Josiah  sent  on  board  both  his 
pilots,  one  of  whom  is  a  native  of  Tahiti  and  speaks  very 
good  English.  Towards  noon,  a  fine  breeze  sprung  up  from 
the  northward  and  eastward.  At  2  got  under-way ;  shortly 
after  the  "  Peacock  "  hove  in  sight — beat  to  windward  until 
we  joined  company  with  her,  when  we  stood  for  the  western 
passage,  and  at  5.15  we  anchored  again. 

May  3d.  This  being  Sunday,  at  10.30  divhie  service  was 
performed  as  usual.  At  meridian,  compared  chrononR'ters 
with  the  other  vessels  of  the  squadron.  It  is  reported  that 
we  leave  here  to-morrow. 

May  4th.     During  these  twenty-four  hours  the  wind  has 


TONGA    ISLAND.  133 


been  blowing  from  the  southward  and  eastward,  accompanied 
with  rain  at  intervals.  At  an  early  hour  the  squadron  got 
under-way  and  proceeded  to  sea. 

I  propose  before  I  conclude  this  chapter,  to  make  a  few 
general  remarks. 

Tonga  Island,  or  Tangataboo,  was  discovered  by  the  Dutch 
about  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth  century,  and  was  by 
them  named  Amsterdam.  It  is  of  coral  formation,  and  has  a 
lagoon,  which  extends  about  twelve  miles  into  the  interior. 

The  climate  is  not  considered  salubrious.  The  temperature 
is  frequently  96°  in  the  shade,  and  the  transitions  from  heat 
to  cold  are  sudden.  Hurricanes  prevail  during  the  months  of 
January,  February  and  March ;  they  vary  in  duration  from 
twelve  to  twenty-four  hours ;  and  after  a  severe  one,  a  famine 
generally  follows,  in  which  great  numbers  of  the  inhabitants 
die ;  they  blow  down  trees  and  destroy  all  kinds  of  crops. 
The  native  name  for  them  is  "  Afa  hagi  fagii,''  which  signifies 
in  English,  the  storm  that  throws  down  the  trees  and  houses. 
The  soil  is  very  fertile,  being  composed  of  several  feet  in 
depth  of  vegetable  mould,  and  is  overgrown  with  a  dense  forest 
of  cocoa-nut  trees.  The  productions  are  yams,  taro,  bread- 
fruit, bananas,  sugar-cane,  shaddocks,  oranges,  and  a  species 
of  nutmeg. 

The  inhabitants  are  probably  of  the  same  extraction  as  the 
natives  of  the  Society  Islands,  Marquesas  Islands,  and  the 
Navigator  Group,  since  there  is  an  evident  resemblance  in 
their  manners,  customs  and  language.  The  women  are  hand- 
some and  graceful  in  their  manners.  Those  who  have  children 
show  a  remarkable  tenderness  for  them,  and  pay  the  greatest 
attention  to  their  wants. 

They  generally  rise  with  the  sun,  and  after  having  enjoyed 
the  cool  of  the  evening,  retire  to  their  repose  a  short  time 


84  TONGA    ISLAND. 


after  sunset.  The  chiefs  are  occupied  in  making  canoes  and 
implements  of  war  ;  the  common  people  are  chiefly  employed 
in  the  cultivation  of  the  soil  and  in  fishing ;  and  the  women 
are  engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  cloths  and  mats.  It  is  a 
common  practice  for  parents  to  make  a  present  of  their 
children  to  chiefs,  or  others,  who  adopt  them  as  their  own. 
This  custom  gives  the  chiefs  many  adopted  children,  and 
tends  to  increase  their  influence  and  power.  After  the  child 
is  grown  up,  one-half  of  its  earnings  goes  to  its  adopted 
parent.  Rank  descends  altogether  by  the  female  line — hence, 
if  a  woman  is  noble,  the  children  are  also  noble.  No  people 
respect  old  age  more  than  the  Tongese.  Every  aged  man  and 
woman  employ  the  attention  and  services  of  the  younger 
classes  of  people. 

At  Nookualofa,  schools  have  been  established ;  houses  for 
stated  religious  worship  erected ;  a  printing-press  put  into 
operation,  and  books  published  in  the  native  dialect ;  and  the 
children  are  taught,  both  by  the  missionaries  and  native 
teachers,  reading,  writing,  and  the  elementary  principles  of 
refined  education. 

They  barter  their  commodities  chiefly  for  whale's  teeth, 
blue  nankeen,  tortoise-shell,  glass  beads,  looking-glasses,  cut- 
lery and  small  axes.  With  the  whales'  teeth  they  decorate 
their  spears  and  clubs,  and  make  neck  and  ear  ornaments. 
They  are  acquainted  with  the  use  of  most  of  our  tools,  and 
prefer  them  in  the  construction  of  their  houses  and  canoes  to 
their  own.  For  some  years  past  considerable  intercourse  has 
been  maintained  with  the  natives  of  the  Fejee  Islands,  which 
are  situated  about  350  miles  from  Nookualofa.  The  trade 
with  American  and  European  vessels  is,  I  understand,  very 
limited  and  precarious. 


FEJEE    ISLANDS.  135 


CHAPTER  XIIL 


FEJEE       ISLANDS, 


On  the  6th  of  May,  the  second  day  out  from  Nookualofa, 
we  made  several  of  the  southern  islands  of  the  Fejee  Group, 
and  sent  the  brig  "  Porpoise  "  to  survey  them.  All  these 
islands  appeared  high,  woody,  and  picturesque.  The  weather 
during  the  night  was  very  misty  and  disagreeable. 

On  the  morning  of  the  8th,  we  reached  the  harbor  of 
Levuka,  the  principal  port  of  the  Island  of  Ovolau.  Great 
numbers  of  the  natives  had  collected  on  the  beach  to  witness 
our  coming  to  anchor,  and  the  sensation  which  the  manoeuvre 
created  among  them  can  be  better  imagined  than  described  ; 
it  is  no  exaggeration  to  say,  that  for  the  next  fifteen  minutes  it 
was  impossible  to  hear  our  own  voices,  so  loud  and  deafening 
were  their  shouts  of  admiration. 

Levuka  is  a  fine  harbor,  being  capacious,  easy  of  access, 
and  perfectly  safe.  Soon  after  we  came-to,  a  small  cutter, 
belonging  to  the  ship  "  Leonidas,"  of  Salem,  Mass.,  arrived 
and  anchored.  She  had  come  to  purchase  provisions  for  the 
use  of  the  ship,  which  was  at  anchor  at  one  of  the  neighboring 
islands. 

In  the  afternoon,  the  principal  chief  of  Ovolau,  accompanied 
by  an  American,  named  David  Whippy,  came  on  board  to 
welcome  us.  Our  countryman  told  us  the  chief  had  a  great 
number  of  names,  but  he  was  best  known  by  that  of  Levuka. 
He  is  a  middle-aged  man,  of  a  good  height,  strong  and  well- 


136  FEJEE    ISLANDS. 


proportioned.  The  color  of  his  skin  was  nearly  black,  and  he 
was  entirely  naked,  except  about  the  loins  and  head.  The 
latter  was  enveloped  in  rolls  of  very  thin  white  tapa,  which,  I 
was  told,  none  but  the  chiefs  were  allowed  to  wear.  He  has  a 
good-natured  face,  and  offered  to  procure  provisions  for  us,  or 
do  anything  else  in  his  power.  He  remained  on  board 
upwards  of  an  hour,  and  received  a  number  of  presents  from 
the  officers  ;  among  others,  a  whale's  tooth,  than  which  nothing 
can  be  more  valuable  in  the  estimation  of  a  Fejeean.  Two 
of  these  will  buy  a  boat-load  of  yams  and  a  dozen  pigs,  or  a 
thousand  cocoa-nuts. 

We  learned  from  Whippy  that  there  were  altogether  five 
white  men  residing  in  Levuka  Town,  and  that  they  were  much 
feared  and  respected  by  the  natives,  on  account  of  their  supe- 
rior knowledge.  He  also  mentioned  their  being  married  to 
Fejee  women,  and  having  large  families  of  children. 

At  an  early  hour  on  the  9th,  Captain  Wilkes,  with  a  num- 
ber of  the  officers  from  this  ship  and  the  "  Peacock,"  set  out 
on  an  excursion  to  the  heights  in  the  interior  of  the  island. 
On  this  day  we  also  sent  on  shore  all  the  scientific  instruments. 
About  sunset  Captain  Wilkes  and  party  returned.  They 
succeeded  in  reaching  the  summit  of  Andulong,  the  highest 
mountain  in  the  island,  and  made  many  interesting  discoveries 
in  the  botany  of  the  country. 

The  following  day  Mr.  B.  and  myself  visited  the  shore. 
We  landed  on  the  beach  abreast  of  the  town,  where  we  found 
great  numbers  of  men,  women  and  children  assembled.  A 
walk  of  but  a  few  yards  brought  us  to  the  Spirit-house,  or 
"  Booree,"  which  we  were  invited  to*  enter  by  the  Chief 
Levuka,  and  his  attendants,  who  were  sitting  in  it  at  the  time. 
Each  town  or  village  has  one  of  these  buildings. 
This  one  stands  on  the  top  of  a  mount,  which  has  been  raised 


FEJEE    ISLANDS.  137 


by  the  hands  of  man  eight  or  ten  feet  above  the  common  build- 
ings. It  has  a  square  shape,  with  a  roof  running  up  to  a 
point  in  the  centre,  and  is  profusely  ornamented  with  the  white 
cowry.  The  sides  are  made  of  reeds  of  a  uniform  size,  bound 
together,  side  by  side,  with  senet.  In  the  front,  there  are 
two  stone-steps,  each  of  which  leads  to  a  doorway.  The  floor 
is  raised  about  six  inches  above  the  ground,  and  is  covered 
with  mats,  two  and  three  thick.  At  one  side  there  is  a  fire- 
place, over  which  is  suspended  a  platform  made  of  reeds. 
There  were  also  some  spears  and  clubs  standing  up  in  one  of 
the  corners ;  but  no  images,  nor  anything  that  gave  the  shghtest 
indication  of  its  being  a  place  of  worship  were  to  be  seen. 
While  we  remained  here  several  of  the  people  who  inhabit  the 
mountainous  parts  of  the  island,  came  to  make  presents  to 
Levuka,  in  proof  of  their  good  faith.  It  was  a  novel  and  sin- 
gular  ceremony.  Each  one,  as  he  entered  the  Spirit-house, 
paused,  and  in  a  loud  and  solemn  tone  pronounced  the  word 
"  Booree ;"  he  then  advanced  to  the  centre  of  the  building, 
where  he  deposited  his  present,  consisting  of  yams,  taro, 
bananas,  ava,  pigs,  &c.,  &c.  This  over,  he  threw  himself  on 
his  knees,  and  bowed  to  the  chief  three  times ;  after  which 
he  arose  and  took  his  leave.  These  dissentions  between  the 
natives  occupying  the  shores  and  those  who  live  in  the  interior, 
are  common  to  all  the  islands,  and  are  carried  on  in  the  most 
cowardly  and  brutal  manner.  Often  in  the  dead  hour  of  night 
a  band  of  these  savages  will  pounce  upon  some  unsuspecting 
family,  or  hamlet,  and  make  an  indiscriminate  slaughter  of 
men,  women  and  children.  A  man  and  his  wife,  going  to  culti- 
vate their  yam-patch,  may  be  surprised  by  50  or  100  warriors, 
carried  off,  cooked  and  eaten.  A  brave,  fearless  meeting  of 
hostile  parties  in  the  open  field  to  decide  their  disputes  by 
deeds  of  noble  daring  never  takes  place. 


188  FEJEE    ISLANDS. 


From  the  Spirit-house  we  went  to  visit  some  of  the  common 
houses.  These  had  very  steep  roofs,  low  sides,  and  only  one 
door,  and  that  made  low  and  narrow,  as  a  protection  against  the 
entrance  of  enemies,  or  that  they  may  club  them  while  creep- 
ing in,  should  they  attempt  it.  Cocoa-nut  or  pandanus-wood 
and  bamboos,  with  leaves  of  sugar-cane,  are  the  materials  em- 
ployed in  their  construction.  The  interior  is  without  partition 
or  separate  apartments ;  the  floor  is  made  of  earth,  sand,  or 
gravel,  strewed  over  with  cocoa-nut  leaves,  and  covered  with 
mats.  One  side  of  the  floor  is  raised  about  eight  inches  higher 
than  the  rest,  which  is  called  the  bed-place,  where  they  sleep. 
It  is  generally  covered  with  a  double  layer  of  mats.  Their 
pillows  are  made  of  a  round  stick,  about  the  diameter  of  a 
spade-handle,  with  pins  about  four  inches  long  stuck  in  it  for 
the  feet.  Some  of  these  are  suflBciently  long  to  accommodate 
three  or  four  persons.  Towards  one  corner  of  the  building, 
a  space,  about  five  feet  square,  is  inclosed  by  four  large  square 
logs  of  hard  wood.  This  inclosure  is  the  general  cooking-place. 
The  principal  cooking-utensil  is  a  large  clay -jar,  with  a  spheri- 
cal bottom ;  it  is  permanently  fixed  on  its  side,  near  the  bot- 
tom, at  an  angle  of  about  forty-five  degrees  from  perpendicular, 
with  a  space  under  it  to  admit  fire.  Over  the  cooking-place 
is  a  platform,  upon  which  they  dry  and  smoke  much  of  their 
provisions.  As  these  houses  have  no  chimneys,  they  are,  as 
might  be  supposed,  filled  with  smoke  and  soot.  I  was  sur- 
prised to  find  the  houses  belonging  to  the  white  residents 
no  better  furnished  than  those  of  the  natives.  They  eat, 
sleep,  and  sit  on  the  floor  like  the  savages  with  whom  they 
associate.  I  also  observed  that  their  children  are  brought  up 
like  those  of  the  natives,  in  ignorance  and  nakedness. 

Having  seen  all  that  was  new  or  strange  about  the  town, 
we  set  out  to  take  a  walk  into  the  interior  of  the  island. 


FEJEE    ISLANDS.  139 


Though  mountainous,  it  is  very  fertile  and  picturesque. 
Change  of  place  changed  not  the  scene.  Everywhere  it  pre- 
sented the  richest  soil  and  most  luxuriant  vegetation — the 
verdure  running  even  into  the  sea.  Vines  and  trees  sprung 
from  the  very  rocks,  while  the  neatly- thatched  cottages  of  the 
natives,  seemingly  dropped,  perchance,  over  the  landscape, 
and  peeping  through  cocoa-nut  and  bread-fruit  tree  groves, 
gave  a  lively  appearance  to  the  coup-d^oeiL  In  this  delightful 
walk  we  met  numbers  of  people,  some  traveling  down  to  the 
ships  with  their  burdens  of  fruit,  others  returning  empty. 
They  all  gave  us  the  road,  turning  to  the  right  and  left,  and 
standing  still  till  we  passed. 

We  got  back  to  the  town  just  in  time  to  witness  another  in- 
teresting sight.  During  our  walk  several  of  the  "  Peacock's" 
officers  came  on  shore,  and  they  prevailed  on  Levuka  to  give 
them  a  native  dance  and  song.  The  performers  were  all 
young  unmarried  women,  and  the  dance  consisted  of  a  kind  of 
a  hopping-step,  accompanied  with  clapping  of  the  hands.  The 
subject  of  the  song  was  the  return  of  the  king,  Tanoa,  to 
Ambou,  after  a  war  which  obliged  him  to  fly  to  a  neighbor- 
ing island.  When  the  performance  was  over,  most  of  these 
damsels  came  to  the  place  where  we  were  standing,  and  de- 
sired us  to  give  them  some  paint.  We  each  happened  to  have 
some  about  us,  and  shared  it  out  among  them,  and  in  a  few 
minutes  after  we  saw  them  with  their  faces  besmeared  with  it. 
They,  like  all  the  other  women  we  had  seen,  were  almost 
n^jjked.  In  color  they  were  a  shade  lighter  than  the  men,  and 
several  had  delicate,  pleasing  features. 

On  the  morning  of  the  11th,  several  of  the  boats  left  the 
ship  on  surveying  duties.  About  noon  the  "  Flying  Fish"  ar- 
rived. Her  Commander  reported  that  she  had  run  on  the 
reef  oflf  the  Island  of  Nirai,  and  for  several  hours  was  threat 


140  FEJEE    ISLANDS. 


ened  with  total  shipwreck.  She  was  finally,  however,  hauled 
off,  and  the  only  damage  sustained  was  the  loss  of  part  of  her 
false  keel. 

In  the  course  of  the  12th,  King  Tanoa  arrived  from  Am- 
bon, and  sent  his  messenger  on  board  to  say  to  Captain 
Wilkes  that  he  and  his  chiefs  were  coming  next  day  to  pay 
him  an  official  visit.  The  messenger  was  instructed  to  state 
to  the  king  that  we  would  be  prepared  to  receive  him.  His 
majesty  disembarked,  accompanied  by  his  attendants,  and 
proceeded  directly  to  the  Council  House,  which  is  the  place 
where  all  strangers  are  entertained.  Here  they  seated  them- 
selves, and  commenced  exchanging  compliments  with  the  Chief 
Levuka,  and  his  head  men.  When  this  was  over,  the  common 
people  liyrought  food  and  placed  it  before  the  visitors  ;  it  con- 
sisted of  yams,  taro,  bread-fruit,  and  a  roasted  pig;  the 
present  was  accompanied  by  a  speech  from  Levuka,  to  which 
the  King's  Prime  Minister  replied;  then  came  clapping  of 
hands,  which  is  the  Fejee  mode  of  expressing  thanks.  When 
the  meal  was  over,  they  all  indulged  in  large  potations  of  ava, 
which  also  was  furnished  by  the  Levukians. 

At  10  A.  M.,  the  king  and  his  chiefs  visited  the  ship. 
They  were  received  with  a  guard  and  by  all  the  officers  belong.- 
ing  to  the  "  Peacock,"  Flying  Fish,"  and  this  ship.  The 
quarter-deck  was  also  dressed  off  for  their  reception.  When 
the  king  came  over  the  side  Captain  Wilkes  took  him  by  the 
hand,  and  led  him  aft  on  the  quarter-deck,  where  he  was  in- 
vited to  take  a  seat.  For  a  considerable  time  his  majesty 
said  nothing,  nor  could  we  conjecture  what  caused  him  to 
be  so  silent ;  at  length,  however,  he  directed  the  interpreter, 
David  Whippy,  to  ask  if  we  were  offended  with  him,  adding, 
that  he  was  led  to  suppose  so,  from  the  fact  that  we  did  not 
fire  a  salute  upon  his  coming  on  board.     Whippy  was  directed 


FEJEE    ISLANDS.  141 


to  assure  him  that  we  were  pleased  to  see  him,  and  to  add,  that 
it  was  our  intention,  before  he  left  the  ship,  to  fire  a  large 
salute.  The  king  being  satisfied  with  this  explanation,  a 
council  was  held,  which  resulted  in  the  adoption  of  rules  and 
regulations  for  the  intercourse  of  American  vessels,  similar  to 
those  established  at  the  Navigator  and  Society  Islands.*  This 
business  over,  Captain  Wilkes  invited  all  the  company  into 
the  cabin,  where  a  collation  was  prepared.  The  sight  of  so 
many  new  things  as  the  cabin  presented,  excited  their  highest 
admiration  and  wonder.  In  about  half  an  hour  the  king  rose 
up  and  expressed  a  wish  to  examine  the  ship  ;  upon  which, 
Captain  W.  took  him  around  all  the  decks.  He  expressed 
great  astonishment  at  the  number  and  size  of  our  guns  and  at 
the  ship's  wheel,  and  observed,  that  he  could  not  understand 
how  we  could  steer  our  "  big  canoe"  by  such  contrivance. 

On  returning  to  the  spar-deck  the  salute  was  ordered  to  be 
fired.  He  was  greatly  terrified  at  the  firing  of  the  third  gun, 
which  had  been  charged  with  a  stand  of  grape  that  he  might 
see  their  effect,  and  desired  the  interpreter  to  say  to  Captain 
Wilkes  that  he  was  satisfied,  and  request  him  to  stop  firing. 
When  the  company  returned  to  the  quarter-deck,  the  purser 
made  them  suitable  presents  in  the  name  of  the  government ; 
these  consisted  of  axes,  plain-irons,  accordions,  whales'  teeth, 
shawls,  muskets,  watches,  Windsor  soap,  tobacco  and  pipes; 
they  were  received  with  much  clapping  of  hands.  His  majesty 
was  highly  delighted  after  this  on  seeing  the  marine  guard  go 
through  the  manual  exercise.  In  expressing  their  satisfaction 
.  at  anything,  they  repeat  the  word  "  vinaka"  several  times 
very  quickly.  Nothing  more  of  importance  passed,  and  shortly 
after,  the  king  rose  to  take  his  leave.     The  guard  was  turned 

♦  A  copy  of  these  Rules  may  be  seev.  in  the  Appendix. 


142  FEJEE    ISLANDS. 


out,  and  the  same  honors  paid  him  on  his  going  away,  as  when 
he  came  on  board. 

Tanoa  belongs  to  the  highest  order  of  chiefs  and  is  con- 
sidered very  powerful.  He  is  about  70  years  of  age,  tall  and 
slender ;  his  countenance  is  pleasing  and  intelligent ;  he  wore 
the  maro  with  long  ends  hanging  down  before  and  behind,  and 
the  usual  head-dress  of  the  chiefs  called  "  Sala."  On  his 
breast  hung  an  ornament  about  eighteen  inches  in  circumfer- 
ence made  of  ivory,  tortoise  shell  and  mother-of-pearl.  Upon 
his  arms  he  had  strings  of  trochus  shell  ground  down  so  as  to 
resemble  rings  ;  his  face,  beard  and  moustaches  were  bedaubed 
with  black  paint ;  his  hair,  like  that  of  all  his  people  is  crispy. 
He  has  a  great  impediment  in  his  speech,  so  much  so,  that  .there 
are  few  persons  who  can  understand  him.  He  is  a  good  friend 
to  the  whites,  and  calls  those  who  live  in  his  dominions  his 
children,  and  causes  the  other  natives  to  treat  them  with  kind- 
ness and  respect.  His  suite  on  this  occasion  consisted  of 
twelve  chiefs,  and  several  Tonga  men  who  seemed  to  be  great 
favorites  with  him.  All  these  chiefs  were  young  looking  men, 
and  their  countenances  indicated  shrewdness  and  intelligence. 

Whippy  told  us,  that  after  they  left  the  ship,  they  had  a 
great  deal  to  say  about  their  reception  ;  and  all  seemed  to  be 
pleased,  and  expressed  the  wish  that  "  big  canoes"  would  often 
come  to  visit  them. 

May  14th.  The  king  paid  us  another  long  visit  to-day.  He 
came  on  board,  when  the  colors  were  hoisted,  and  did  not  go 
away  until  a  few  minutes  before  sunset.  He  told  us  he  came 
this  time  "  to  see  for  himself,"  and  asked  to  dispense  with  all 
ceremony.  About  1  o'clock  twIJ  of  his  people  came  along- 
side with  his  dinner.  He  sent  word  to  them  that  he  had  been 
invited  to  dine  on  board  the  ship,  and  to  take  the  dinner  on 
shore  again ;  it  was  brought  in  an  iron  pot,  and  consisted  of 


FEJEE    ISLANDS.  143 


yams  and  taro.  On  leaving  the  ship  he  shook  hands  with  all 
the  officers,  and  mentioned  that  he  should  return  to-morrow  to 
Ambou,  and  in  a  few  days  his  son  Seruh  would  pay  us  a  visit. 
May  15th.  This  morning  the  "  Peacock  "  got  under- way 
and  stood  out  to  sea ,  I  understand  she  has  orders  to  proceed 
direct  to  Rewa,  and  make  every  endeavor  to  capture  the  chief 
Vendovi — ^it  being  known  that  he  is  deeply  implicated  in  the 
murders  committed  on  the  crew  of  the  brig  ''Charles  Daggett." 
The  details  of  this  horrible  transaction  are,  as  near  as  we  can 
learn,  as  follows  : — The  brig,  some  years  since,  came  among 
these  islands  to  obtain  Biche  de  Mar.*  The  captain, 
(Bachelor,)  became  acquainted  with  Vendovi,  and  having,  as  he 
supposed,  obtained  his  good-will,  determined  to  make  his 
island  one  of  the  principal  stations.  They  previously  took  on 
board,  as  pilots  and  interpreters,  several  white  men  who  were 
living  on  the  islands.  He  also  took  the  precaution  at  first  of 
keeping  a  chief,  as  hostage,  on  board ;  but  who,  after  a  few  days, 
pretending  to  be  sick,  was  sent  on  shore.  One  of  the  inter- 
preters, who  was  then  at  the  Biche  de  Mar  house,  perceiving 
this,  and  observing  at  the  same  time  some  suspicious  move- 
ments among  the  natives,  became  convinced  that  they  had 
formed  the  design  of  taking  the  vessel,  and  as  soon  as  he  saw 
the  mate  told  him  what  he  had  observed,  and  cautioned  him 
to  be  on  his  guard.  The  mate  immediately  came  to  the  same 
conclusion,  and  turned  to  walk  to  the  landing-place,  where  he 
had  left  his  boat ;  but  Vendovi,  who  was  in  company  with  him 
suspected  that  his  treachery  had  been  detected,  and  he  deter- 
mined to  secure  himl  He  took  the  hand  of  the  mate  in  a  friendly 
manner,  and  walked  along  some  distance  with  him.  Then 
suddenly  stopping,  he  seized  both  the  mate's  arms  and  pinioned 

♦  This  animal  is  sometimes  called  Sea-Slug.    It  is  found  on  the  reefs,  and  when  pre- 
pared, it  is  sent  to  China,  where  it  is  used  as  an  ingredient  in  soup. 


144  FEJEE    ISLANDS. 


tliem  to  his  side.  This  was  the  signal  for  a  general  assault. 
Some  of  the  savages  beat  out  the  brains  of  the  mate  with 
clubs  while  he  was  held  by  Vendovi,  and  a  large  number 
attacked  the  house  in  which  the  other  men  were,  and  killed 
two  of  them.  The  interpreter  and  a  Tahitian  escaped  with 
great  difficulty  by  swimming  off  to  a  boat.  The  next  day  the 
bodies  of  the  murdered  men  were  obtained  by  paying  a  musket 
for  them,  and  were  buried  along-side  the  vessel. 

Rewa  is  situated  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Island  of  Viti- 
levu,  and  contains  between  two  and  three  hundred  houses. 
Its  chief  is  styled  a  king,  and,  like  Tanoa,  exercises  absolute 
authority  over  his  people. 

May  17th.  To-day,  David  Bateman  (marine)  departed  this 
life.  He  had  been  sick  some  time  with  an  affection  of  the 
lungs.  He  was  removed  to  this  ship  about  ten  days  ago,  from 
the  ''  Porpoise,"  and  was  then  very  ill.  Since  our  arrival 
here  he  was  sent  on  shore,  where  a  suitable  place  was  provided 
for  him,  and  every  attention  shown  him  by  the  surgeon  of  the 
vessel.  He  was  buried  in  a  small  garden  belonging  to  one  of 
the  white  residents. 

May  19th.  We  should  judge  from  the  great  quantities  of 
fish  which  have  been  brought  along-side  for  sale  for  the  past 
two  or  three  days,  that  they  are  very  abundant  in  these  waters. 
They  were  taken  mostly  by  the  women,  on  the  reefs,  at  low 
water,  by  means  of  hand-nets.  It  is  a  very  common  thing  for 
the  natives  of  the  other  islands  to  land  on  these  reefs,  and 
carry  off  the  women  for  cannibal  purposes.  I  was  an  eye- 
witness of  an  attempt  of  the  kind  made  yesterday  after- 
noon. About  4  o'clock,  a  canoe,  manned  by  three  men, 
rounded  the  southern  point  off  the  island,  and  stood  in  for  the 
reef.  The  women  immediately  threw  down  their  nets  and 
plunged  into  the  water ;  clubs  and  pieces  of  coral  were  then 


% 


FEJEE    ISLANDS.  146 


thrown  at  them  by  their  pursuers,  and  at  length  two  of  the 
poor  creatures  were  captured.  The  canoe,  however,  soon  cap- 
sized ;  and,  while  the  men  were  employed  in  righting  it,  the 
two  women  succeeded  in  making  their  escape,  for  their  pursuers 
dared  not  to  follow  them  very  close  into  the  shore,  lest  they 
should  themselves  fall  into  the  hands  of  the  enraged  Levukians. 
It  is  said  that  the  flesh  of  women  is  preferred  to  that  of  men ; 
and  that  they  consider  the  arms  and  thighs  the  choicest  parts. 
This  forenoon  we  received  a  visit  from  Tanoa's  son,  Seruh, 
and  his  attendant  chiefs.  He  had  the  same  honors  paid  him 
as  were  shown  to  his  father.  He  is  between  twenty-five  and 
thirty  years  old — ^lias  regular  features  and  a  good  figure.  His 
behavior  was  proper  enough  while  in  our  company ;  but  I  am 
informed  by  the  resident  whites  that  he  is  exceedingly  haughty 
and  overbearing  towards  the  natives.  He  takes  advantage  of 
his  high  position  to  plunder  the  lower  order  of  chiefs  of  their 
whales'  teeth,  muskets,  knives,  or  anything  else  they  may  have 
in  their  possession,  which  he  fancies.  Indeed,  his  eye  bespeaks 
a  savage,  tyrannical  heart.  He  is  the  eldest  of  Tanoa's  sons 
— consequently  is  the  heir  to  the  kingly  power.  His  dress  con- 
sisted of  the  tapa  turban,  a  large  whale's  tooth,  which  hung 
pendent  on  his  breast,  two  armlets  made  of  the  leaf  of  pan- 
danus,  resembling  light  yellow  ribbon,  and  the  "  Searo,"  or 
white  tapa,  which  was  wound  round  his  waist  four  or  five 
times,  leaving  one  end  of  it  trailing  on  the  deck.  His  hair 
and  beard  were  jet  black,  and  combed  and  twisted  with  great 
care.  The  Fejee  chiefs  pay  great  attention  to  this  part  of 
their  toilet,  and  have  regular  barbers  attached  to  their  estab- 
lishments. Seruh  had  his  prophet,  or  "  Ambati,"  with  him, 
who  appeared  to  be  a  shrewd,  intelligent  man.  The  whole 
party  seemed  delighted  with  the  ship,  and  made  us  quite  a 
visitation. 


146  FEJEE    ISLANDS. 


May  21st.  We  hear  that  the  "  Peacock "  has  succeeded 
in  capturing  Vendovi.  It  was  effected  by  seizing  his  brother 
chiefs,  and  retaining  them  on  board  the  ship  until  he  was 
delivered  up  to  Captain  Hudson. 

It  is  very  gratifying  for  us  to  learn  that  a  messenger  arrived 
here  this  afternoon  from  Ambou,  with  permission  for  the 
Chief  Levuka  to  take  the  taboo  off  the  cocoa-nut  trees.  This 
will  enable  us  to  procifre  the  fruit  in  future.  The  taboo  was 
laid  on  a  short  time  previous  to  our  arrival  in  the  islands,  and, 
I  am  informed,  was  done  out  of  respect  to  a  high  chief,  who 
was  drowned  in  the  harbor  of  Rewa.  None  but  chiefs  of  high 
rank  can  remove  the  taboo;  hence  the  necessity  of  waiting 
in  the  present  instance  for  the  chiefs  of  Ambou  to  give  orders 
on  the  subject.  The  taboo  lasts  from  two  t^  twelve  months 
in  the  case  of  chiefs,  according  to  their  rank  for  a  common 
person,  usually  about  four  days.  Trees  that  are  tabooed  have 
bands  of  pandanus  or  cocoa-nut  leaves  fastened  around  them, 
and  a  piece  of  wood  is  set  up  in  a  small  mound  of  earth  near  by. 

May  22d.  At  sunset  we  sent  eleven  men  to  the  observa- 
tory, armed  with  muskets  and  cutlasses.  We  were  advised 
to  take  this  precautionary  step  by  Whippy  and  the  other 
whites  residing  on  the  island,  who,  of  course,  are  well  ac- 
quainted with  the  character  of  the  natives.  They  assured  us 
that  Vendovi^s  friends  were  watching  for  an  opportunity  to 
avenge  themselves  upon  us ;  and  if  we  had  any  property  on 
shore,  it  could  not  be  too  well  protected.  It  is  the  Fejee  cus- 
tom to  attack  their  enemies  under  cover  of  night,  when  it  is 
not  easy  to  discover  their  approach.  From  what  I  have  seen 
and  heard,  I  think  they  are.  the  most  treacherous  and  cowardly 
people  on  the  face  of  the  earth. 

May  23d.  It  is  reported  here  that  the  greatest  excitement 
prevails  at  Rewa  on  account  of  Vendovi's  capture.     Shotted 


FEJEE    ISLANDS.  147 


all  the  guns ;  shifted  our  berth  nearer  the  Observatory,  and  at 
sunset  sent  25  men  in  charge  of  Messrs.  De  Haven  and  San- 
ford  to  protect  it.  We  also  have  Tanoa's  son,  Seruh,  on 
board  as  a  hostage.  Signals  were  concerted  with  the  observa- 
tory in  case  of  an  attack,  and  the  battery  got  ready  to  give  an 
enemy  a  warm  reception. 

May  24th.  At  an  early  hour  this  morning  Seruh  took  his 
departure  for  Ambou.  To-day  one  of  the  sailors  stationed  at 
the  Observatory,  reported  a  native  for  stealing  his  sheath- 
knife.  Levuka  immediately  had  the  thief  apprehended,  and 
sent  on  board  for  us  to  punish.  He  is  now  confined  in  the 
"Brig,"  but  he  denies  having  taken  the  knife  in  question; 
yet  Levuka  wonders  that  we  do  not  kill  him  ! 

May  25th.  This  afternoon  the  native  prisoner  alluded  to 
in  the  foregoing  remarks,  was  released  from  confinement,  as 
there  was  not  sufficient  proof  to  establish  his  guilt.  The  poor 
fellow's  joy  amounted  well  nigh  to  a  phrenzy.  He  shouted 
and  clapped  his  hands,  and  then  running  up  to  the  spar-deck, 
he  plunged  into  the  water  and  swam  to  the  shore.  A  canoe, 
which  arrived  a  few  hours  since  from  Rewa,  reports  that  the 
excitement  caused  by  the  capture  of  Vendovi  has  entirely  sub- 
sided, and  a  majority  of  the  people  considered  him  a  dangerous 
individual,  and  were  glad  to  have  him  removed  from  among 
them. 

June  2d.  At  1.15  P.  M.,  H.  B.  M.  schooner  "  Starling,'' 
tender  to  the  "  Sulphur,"  Captain  Belcher,  arrived  direct 
from  Rewa.  Her  commander,  Lieutenant  Kellet,  informed 
us  that  the  object  of  his  visit  was  to  obtain  from  us  a  rudder- 
pintle  for  the  "  Sulphur,"  she  having  carried  away  one  of 
hers  by  encountering  a  coral-rock  when  going  into  Rewa. 

Seruh  paid  us  another  visit  to-day,  and  brought  yams,  pigs, 
and  other  provisions,  as  a  present. 


148  FEJEE    ISLANDS. 


June  29th.  Nothing  of  much  interest  has  transpired  during 
the  past  four  weeks.  We  have  been  engaged  most  of  the  time 
in  surveying  the  islands  and  reefs  in  the  vicinity  of  Ovalau. 
One  day  some  thirty  of  Tanoa's  wives  visited  the  ship ;  they 
were  rather  good-looking  and  quite  young,  excepting  one. 
She,  I  should  judge,  was  about  fifty  years  of  age,  and  Whippy 
told  me  that  she  was  the  only  one  of  all  the  king's  wives  who 
bore  the  title  of  queen.  Her  attire  was  like  that  of  the  other 
females.  She  wore  the  "  leeku."  She  had  a  profusion  of 
shell-ornaments  upon  her  neck  and  arms,  and  her  body  was 
smeared  from  head  to  foot  with  a  mixture  of  oil  and  turmeric. 
Her  hair  was  dressed  in  a  very  grotesque  manner,  and  dyed 
black,  white  and  red — its  natural  hue  being  gray. 

They  made  a  long  visit,  and  told  us  that  they  were  coming 
again  next  day,  but,  fortunately  for  us,  they  scarcely  reached 
the  shore  when  they  received  orders  from  the  old  king  to 
return  to  Ambou  immediately.  Their  curiosity  was  so  great 
as  to  be  very  annoying  after  a  little  while ;  they  wanted  to 
handle  and  examine  everything  they  saw. 

On  the  27th  we  broke  up  the  Observatory,  and  proceeded 
to  make  preparations  for  going  to  sea. 

July  3d.  We  reached  Savu-Savu  Bay  on  the  Island  of 
Venua-levu.*  It  is  a  fine  sheet  of  water,  affording  a  number 
of  good  anchorages ;  among  others,  the  one  in  which  we  are 
now  lying,  called  by  the  natives,  Waicama,  (harbor  of  hot- 
springs,)  from  the  circumstance  of  there  being  springs  of  that 
character  in  its  vicinity.  It  may  be  described  as  being  a  deep 
cove,  surrounded  by  a  highly  picturesque  country,  and  so  well 

*  This  is  one  of  the  largest  islands  in  the  Group.  It  is  upwards  of  a  hundred 
miles  long,  and  from  thirty  to  sixty  in  breadth.  Its  general  character  is  mountain- 
ous, but  the  soil  is  fertile,  especially  in  the  valleys.  Bread-fruit,  cocoa-nut  trees, 
and  many  others  alibrding  food  for  man,  are  abundant.  Yams  and  taro  are  the  prin- 
cipal crops. 


FEJEE    ISLANDS.  149 


protected  from  both  sea  and  wind,  that  vessels  may  lie  in  it  at 
all  seasons  of  the  year  without  the  least  fear  of  danger.  The 
hot-springs  alluded  to  are  seven  in  number — two  of  them  issue 
from  a  rock,  which  at  high  tide  is  overflowed ;  the  remaining 
five  are  located  in  a  small  valley,  and  within  a  few  yards  of 
the  margin  of  a  mountain-stream.  The  temperature  of  the 
two  first-mentioned  springs  was  200°,  that  of  the  five,  210°, 
and  that  of  the  stream  75°.  The  rock  in  the  neighborhood  is 
of  a  volcanic  origin,  but  there  is  no  smell  of  sulphur ;  the  water 
is  very  clear,  and  has  a  brackish,  or  saline  taste.  It  is  a 
common  practice  for  the  natives  residing  about  the  bay  to  cook 
their  food  in  those  springs,  and  I  was  shown  one  in  which 
I  was  told  human  flesh  had  been  cooked  only  a  few  days  be- 
fore. The  account  the  natives  give  of  them  is,  that  they  have 
always  been  in  the  same  state,  and  that  they  are  the  abode  of 
a  spirit  w^hich  it  w^ould  be  dangerous  to  offend,  as  it  might  at 
any  time  destroy  the  inhabitants  by  causing  the  hot  waters  to 
overflow  the  island.  There  is  one  priest,  who  pretends  to 
have  communication  with  the  spirit,  and  there  was  a  "  Booree'^ 
near  by  the  spring  in  which  their  interviews  took  place. 

The  natives  also  informed  us  that  formerly  this  part  of 
Venua-levu  was  very  populous,  but  constant  dissensions  had 
nearly  depopulated  it.  On  the  top  of  a  hill  about  two  miles 
from  the  beach  w^ere  the  ruins  of  a  very  large  Fejee 
fort. 

At  daylight  on  the  5  th,  we -were  again  under  way,  and  by  5 
P.  M.  on  the  same  day,  we  arrived  at  Sandal-wood  Bay,  or 
Mabua,  where  we  found  the  "  Peacock."  Sandal- wood  Bay  is 
a  large  circular  basin  open  to  the  sea.  The  neighboring 
country  is  not  so  interesting  as  that  about  Savu-Savu  Bay, 
and  the  sandal- wood  tree  by  which  it  was  once  covered,  has 
become  almost  extinct. 


150  FEJEE    ISLANDS. 


The  principal  town  is  situated  on  a  river,  and  was  said  to 
be  the  theatre  of  continual  broils  between  two  brothers.  It. 
contains  from  sixty  to  seventy  houses,  and  is  surrounded  with 
pallisades  formed  of  trees  and  other  timber,  and  a  ditch.  The 
inhabitants  were  the  most  docile*  we  had  ever  met  in  the 
group,  and  supplied  us  with  plenty  of  fresh  provisions.  In 
some  of  the  houses  graves  were  observed,  which  the  white  re- 
sidents told  us  were  placed  there  to  protect  them  from  the 
enemy. 

Soon  after  we  let-go  the  anchor  a  boat  came  along-side  from 
the  "  Peacock"  bringing  Vendovif  ;  the  officer  who  had  charge 
of  him  informed  me  that  he  had  acknowledged  to  Captain 
Hudson  his  guilt  in  causing  the  murder  of  part  of  the  crew  of 
the  "  Charles  Daggett,''  and  admitted  that  he  had  held  the 
mate  by  the  arms,  while  the  natives  killed  him  with  clubs. 
He  is  about  thirty-five  years  of  age,  tall  and  rather  slender,  and 
has  a  countenance  which  belies  his  character — its  expression  is 
mild  and  benevolent.  He  was  placed  under  the  charge  of  a 
sentry,  with  orders  not  to  allow  any  one  to  speak  to  him.  At 
the  same  time  the  master-at-arms  was  called  up,  and  directed 
to  see  that  he  received  his  meals  at  the  proper  hours. 

During  the  7th,  8th  and  9th,  we  experienced  heavy  gales, 
accompanied  with  a  tremendous  swell.  On  the  latter  day, 
the  purser  of  the  squadron  reported  the  salt  provisions  as  run- 
ning short,  and  recommended  a  reduction  to  be  made  in  the 
rations. 

On  the  12th,  between  the  hours  of  2  and  8  o'clock  P.  M. 
we  descried  a  small  sail  standing   in  the  bay.     It  proved  to 

♦  This  was  to  have  been  expected,  for  their  intercourse  with  the  whites  has  been 
more  frequent  than  that  of  any  other  part  of  the  group.  It  is  here  that  such  large 
quantities  of  sandal-wood  have  been  shipped  for  the  China  market. 

t  Vendovi  was  taken  to  the  United  States,  but  soon  after  his  arrival  he  sickened  and 
died  in  the  Navy  Hospital  at  Brooklyn,  New  York. 


FEJEE  ISLANDS.  151 


be  our  launch,  which,  together  with  the  first  cutter  in  charge 
of  Mr.  Knox,  left  the  ship  a  few  days  previous  on  surveying 
duties.  It  was  expected  that  the  first  cutter  would  make  her 
appearance  next,  but  moment  after  moment  passed  away  with- 
out our  being  able  to  see  anything  of  her.  Some,  therefore, 
believed  that  she  had  capsized  during  the  recent  storms,  others 
that  she  had  been  captured  by  the  natives.  At  last,  the  launch 
reached  the  ship,  when  it  appeared  from  Mr.  Knox's  report, 
that  the  latter  opinion  was  correct.  He  stated  that  she  got 
on  a  reef  near  by  Sualib  Bay,  and  while  he  was  endeavoring 
to  get  her  off,  the  natives  came  out  in  great  numbers,  armed 
with  clubs  and  muskets,  and  claimed  the  boat  and  everything 
in  her  as  their  property.*  He  ordered  his  party  to  repel  the 
robbers,  but  soon  discovered  he  was  completely  in  their 
power,  as  all  his  ammunition  was  saturated  with  salt  wa- 
ter. He  was,  therefore,  compelled  to  leave  the  cutter  in  the 
possession  of  the  natives  and  take  refuge  on  board  the  launch . 
After  Mr.  Knox  left,  the  robbers  dragged  the  boat  over  the 
reef  and  stripped  her  of  everything.  They  then  appeared  to  be 
anxiously  watching  the  launch,  and  even  fired  their  muskets 
at  her.  Immediately  on  receiving  the  report,  orders  were 
given  for  several  boats  to  be  fitted  out  from  the  "  Peacock" 
and  this  ship,  with  all  possible  dispatch.  About  sunset  the 
boats  were  reported  to  be  in  readiness,  and  Captain  Wilkes 
accompanied  by  Captain  Hudson,  proceeded  on  board  the 
"  Flying  Fish,"  and  in  a  few  minutes  after  they  all  made  sail, 
and  stood  out  the  harbor.  At  an  early  hour  next  morning 
they  reached  Sualib  Bay.  After  coming  to  an  anchor,  the 
pilot  was  sent  on  shore  to  hold  a  parley  with  the  natives,  and 

♦  Any  canoe  or  vessel  when  driven  on  shore  is  accounted  an  oft'ering  to  the  gods. 
All  that  it  contains  is  considered  as  belonging  to  the  people  of  the  district  where  the 
accident  happens. 

1.  _  J . 


152  FEJEE    ISLANDS. 


state  to  them  that  if  they  restored  the  boat  and  the  things* 
found  in  her,  they  would  for  this  time  be  forgiven.  But  the 
savages  would  not  even  comply  with  these  terms,  and  Captain 
Wilkes  deemed  it  his  duty  to  chastise  them  in  order  that  they 
might  be  convinced  that  such  outrages  could  no  longer  be  com- 
mitted without  receiving  punishment.  Accordingly,  a  large 
force,  commanded  by  Captain  Hudson,  proceeded  on  shore, 
fired  two  of  their  villages,  containing  from  thirty  to  forty  huts 
each,  and  broke  up  all  the  canoes.  It  is  not  known  that  any 
lives  were  lost  on  either  side.  Indeed,  our  people  had  no  oc- 
casion to  fire  a  single  shot,  as  the  savages  proved  themselves 
to  be  arrant  cowards ;  the  moment  they  saw  Captain  Hudson 
disembark,  they  fled  in  all  directions,  so  that  when  he  reached 
their  towns  he  found  them  completely  deserted. 

When  the  work  of  destruction  was  over,  our  people  returned 
to  the  beach,  launched  the  captured  cutter,  and  then  embarked 
and  proceeded  on  board  the  schooner.  Soon  afterward  they 
set  out  to  rejoin  the  ships  in  Sandal-wood  Bay,  which  they 
accomplished  about  midnight. 

On  the  15th,  Captain  Wilkes  left  in  the  "  Flying  Fish,^^ 
to  take  a  tour  round  the  islands.  Messrs.  Alden  and  Henry 
in  the  first  cutter,  and  Mr.  Underwood  in  a  boat  named 
"  Leopard,"  also  left  the  ship  on  surveying  duties. 

July  21st,  we  performed  the  last  offices  to  one  who  lost 
his  life  by  an  accident  tliat  befell  him  while  he  was  assisting 
us  in  our  duties ;  I  allude  to  Mr..  Baxter,  mate  of  the  ship 
"  Leonidas,^'  of  Salem.  The  particulars  are  as  follows  : — 
When  the  "  Peacock  ^'  arrived  at  Matawata  Bay,  she  found 
the  "  Leonidas  ^'  there ;  and  there  being  a  great  deal  of  sur- 

♦  The  value  of  these  things  M'hich  consisted  of  the  men's  clothing,  of  books,  charts, 
and  instruments  of  the  officers,  sails,  water  casks,  oars,  fee,  was  estimated  at  $1,500 
They  were  never  recovei   i. 


FEJEE    ISLANDS.  163 


veying  to  be  done,  and  a  number  of  base  lines  to  be  measured 
by  sound,  she  was  requested  by  Captain  Hudson  to  fire  her 
guns  as  signals.  The  request  was  complied  with,  and  Mr. 
Baxter  acted  as  gunner.  He  had  fired  the  first  gun,  and  was 
re-priming  for  the  second,  when  a  spark  coming  from  a  part 
of  the  cylinder  which  hung  in  the  chamber  of  the  gun,  com- 
municated with  the  powder-horn  which  he  held  in  his  hand, 
and  exploded.  This  communicated  with  a  cylinder  weighing 
about  two  pounds,  which  he  carried  in  the  bosom  of  his  shirt, 
which  also  exploded,  and  burned  his  breast,  stomach  and  face 
in  the  most  dreadful  manner.  He  was  immediately  conveyed  to 
the  "  Peacock,''  where  every  attention  was  shown  him.  On 
her  arrival  at  this  place  he  was  sent  on  shore,  where  a  com- 
fortable tent  was  erected  for  his  accommodation.  He  was 
constantly  attended  by  a  surgeon,  but  to  no  purpose.  After 
forty  days  and  forty  nights  of  the  most  excruciating  suf- 
fering, he  expired.  He  was  buried  on  a  point  near  the 
ships,  with  a  head-stone  and  suitable  epitaph.  He  was  a 
native  of  France,  and  in  his  last  moments  communicated  to 
Doctor  Guillou  his  real  name,  which  was  Vincente  Pierre 
Boudette. 

It  is  proper  to  state  that  the  cylinders  used  on  the  occasion 
were  made  of  canvas.  Had  they  been  flannel,  the  usual 
material,  we  presume  the  accident  would  not  have  happened. 

On  the  22d,  the  "  Peacock  "  got  under-way,  with  orders  to 
proceed  to  Matawata  Bay. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  28th,  Captain  Hudson  came  on 
board  ;  and  at  an  early  hour  the  following  day,  we  set  out  to 
join  the  "  Peacock  "  ;  but  the  wind  fell  light  and  baffling,  and 
we  finally  were  obliged  to  anchor  again  oif  Naloa  Bay,  to  keep 
from  being  drifted  on  the  neighboring  reef.  Naloa  Bay  is 
remarkable  as  the  spot  where  the  Chevalier  Dillon  was  attacked 


154  FEJEE    ISLANDS. 


by  the  natives.  Here,  also,  the  ''  Leonidas  "  had  one  of  her 
sailors  killed  by  a  chief,  named  Gingi,  only  a  few  weeks 
before.  The  reason  he  assigned  for  the  act  was,  that  the 
sailor  had  maltreated  him- when  he  was  to  the  islands  in  a 
previous  voyage.  We  endeavored  to  seize  the  murderer,  but 
without  success. 

We  saw  some  pottery  here  of  an  excellent  quality,  manu- 
factured by  the  native  women.  The  clay  used  is  of  a  red 
color,  and  is  obtained  in  great  quantities  on  the  shores  of  the 
bay.  Some  of  the  vessels  were  very  gracefully  shaped,  and 
had  tracings  executed  upon  them  by  young  girls  with  the  fibres 
of  a  cocoa-nut  leaf.  The  pots  are  dried  in  the  open  air ;  and 
for  baking  them  they  use  a  common  wood  fire,  without  any 
oven ;  but  the  tenacity  of  the  clay  is  such,  that  even  without 
baking  the  pottery  is  sufficiently  strong.  The  difierent  parts 
are  all  made  separately  and  afterwards  joined ;  but  this  is 
done  so  well,  that  it  is  impossible  to  discover  the  joints, 
especially  if  the  vessel  has  been  varnished.* 

About  noon  next  day  (29th),  we  arrived  at  the  place  of  our 
destination. 

Matawata  is  a  large  town,  and  situated  near  the  beach. 
The  country  around  it  is  quite  level — has  but  few  trees  on  it, 
and  the  soil  does  not  appear  to  be  fertile ;  but  the  town  is  well 
built,  and  has  considerable  trade  in  Biche  de  Mar  and  tor- 
toise-shell. 

The  king's  name  is  Tui-Matawata.  He  is  old,  and  suffers 
very  much  from  the  elephantiasis — so  much  so,  that  he  can 
scarcely  walk.  He  has  several  wives ;  among  others,  one 
called  Henrietta,  who  is  a  native  of  Rotuma — has  a  fair  com- 
plexion,   and    is   quite   good-looking.      Our  pilot   was   well 

This  varnish  consists  of  the  resin  of  a  species  of  piue,  mixed  with  a  decoction 
of  the  mangrove  bark. 


FEJEE    ISLANDS.  155 


acquainted  with  her  history ;  and  one  day  he  related  to  me  the 
circumstances  under  which  she  came,  or  rather  was  forced,  to 
marry  the  old  king.  She  had,  while  at  her  native  island, 
married  a  Tahitian  who  was  residing  there,  and  had  gone  with 
him  to  Tahiti  on  a  visit.  Wishing  to  return  to  their  home, 
they  had  taken  passage  on  board  of  a  Salem  vessel  engaged  in 
the  Biche  de  Mar  trade.  On  arriving  at  Matawata,  they 
were  invited  to  land  and  remain  with  some  of  her  countrymen, 
many  of  whom  were  residing  there.  Unfortunately,  the  king 
saw  her,  and  took  a  fancy  to  her  ;  and  he  immediately  killed 
and  feasted  on  her  husband,  and  then  compelled  her  to  become 
one  of  his  wives.  The  pilot  added,  that  she  was  disgusted  with 
the  old  savage,  and  if  she  ever  had  the  chance  to  run  away 
from  him,  she  would  avail  herself  of  it. 

We  found  at  Matawata  a  large  number  of  plants  which  are 
not  noticed  in  any  of  the  botanical  works. 

On  the  30th  of  July  we  commenced  to  survey  the  bay. 
Next  morning  all  the  signals  were  found  missing,  the  natives 
having  stolen  them  during  the  night.  As  such  acts  were  cal- 
culated to  delay  our  operations.  Captain  Hudson  sent  an  officer 
to  the  king  to  state  to  him,  that  if  the  signals  were  not  re- 
stored by  12  o'clock  on  the  same  day,  he  should  be  obliged  to 
send  an  armed  force  on  shore  to  punish  the  inhabitants.  He 
requested  the  officer  to  inform  Captain  Hudson  that  it  was  not 
his  people  who  had  stolen  the  flags,  but  the  natives  who  lived  in 
the  mountains,  and  over  whom  he  had  no  control.  We  had 
good  reasons  for  doubting  his  majesty's  veracity,  and  on  re- 
demanding  the  signals  they  were  brought  on  board.  This 
incident  shows  how  little  dependence  can  be  placed  on  the 
word  of  a  Fejeeian.  Indeed,  I  have  been  assured  that  they 
tell  a  falsehood  in  preference,  when  the  truth  would  better 
answer  their  purpose  ;    and  adroit  lying  is  regarded  as  an 


156  MASSACRE    OF    LIEUTENANT    UNDERWOOD 

acconoplishment,  and  one  wlio  is  expert  at  it  is  sure  of  a 
friendly  reception  wherever  he  goes.  When  the  white  resi- 
dents wish  to  obtain  the  truth,  they  invariably  request  them 
not  to  tell  lies. 

On  the  31  st,  several  of  our  boats  returned  from  the  leeward 
Islands,  bringing  the  melancholy  intelligence  of  the  murder  of 
Messrs.  Underwood  and  Henry  by  the  natives  of  Malolo. 
We  learned  by  the  same  boats  of  the  death  of  one  of  the 
sailors,  named  Smith,  who  was  attached  to  the  schooner 
''  Tyvity"*  as  one  of  her  crew. 

The  following  are  the  circumstances  connected  with  the 
death  of  Messrs.  Underwood  and  Henry : — 

On  the  23d  ultimo,  Lieutenants  Alden  and  Underwood 
came  to  anchor  on  the  reef  at  Malololie,  which  is  connected 
with  the  large  island  Malolo,  by  a  coral  isthmus,  bare  at  low 
water.  Here  Mr.  Underwood  landed  alone,  and  soon  encoun- 
tered a  boy  with  an  armful  of  clubs,  who,  when  asked  whether 
any  provisons  could  be  purchased  in  the  neighborhood,  answered, 
"plenty,  plenty."  Mr.  Underwood  directed  him  to  lead  the 
way  to  the  place  he  referred  to.  On  the  beach  they  fell  in 
with  a  party  of  men  who  were  quite  as  much  confused  at  the 
sight  of  Mr.  Underwood  as  the  boy  had  been  before.  At  this 
juncture.  Lieutenant  Alden  recalled  Mr.  Underwood  by  sig- 
nal, and  this,  perhaps,  prevented  an  attack  on  him  that  after- 
noon. The  next  morning  (July  24th),  the  "  Peacock's"  cutter 
joined  the  other  boats.  The  scarcity  of  provisions,  and  the 
distance  of  the  schooner,  whose  own  necessities  were  also 
pressing,  now  made  it  absolutely  necessary  to  obtain  supplies 
ashore.  The  natives  pretended  to  have  an  abundance  of  food 
at  the  village  of   Malolo-levu,  but  could  not  be  induced  to 

*  The  schooner  belonged  to  one  of  the  white   men    residing   on   Ovolau,  and   was 
hired  to  go  about  tho  islands  to  procure  fresh  provisions  for  the  squadron. 


AND  MIDSHIPMAN  HENRY.  157 

transport  it  across  the  isthmus,  which  was  impassable  for 
boats,  except  at  high-water.  While  trying  to  think  of  some 
way  of  removing  this  difficulty,  a  man,  who  called  himself  the 
orator  of  the  town,  arrived,  and  delivered  an  invitation  from 
his  chief  to  go  to  Malolo-levu,  and  take  oflf  a  present  that  had 
been  prepared  for  them  on  the  beach.  This  story  of  Fejee 
manufacture,  was  little  credited,  but  as  there  was  reason  to 
believe  that  provisions  might  be  purchased  from  some  of  the 
natives,  and  the  case  was  urgent,  Mr.  Underwood,  whose 
boat  drew  the  least  water,  volunteered  to  make  the  attempt. 
Accordingly,  in  a  few  minutes  he  shoved  off;  but  after  pulling 
a  short  distance,  observing  that  he  had  no  one  with  him  who 
could  talk  with  the  natives,  he  returned  and  asked  for  a  New 
Zealander,  named  John  Sack.  Having  taken  this  man,  he 
again  shoved  ojff  and  pulled  for  the  beach.  Mr.  Alden  fol- 
lowed as  soon  as  the  tide  permitted,  and  Mr.  Emmons,  after 
taking  a  round  of  angles.  Lieutenant  Alden  lost  no  time, 
after  anchoring  off  the  town,  in  getting  a  chief  in  his  boat  as  a 
hostage  for  Mr.  Underwood's  safety.  This  native  early  at- 
tempted to  escape  in  a  canoe,  but  Mr.  Alden  forced  him  back 
into  the  boat,  and  threatened  to  shoot  him  if  he  did  so  again. 
In  the  meantime  Mr.  Underwood  continued  to  barter  with  the 
natives,  and  sent  off  a  message  to  Mr.  Alden  for  muskets  and 
powder,  which  could  not  be  supplied.  Mr.  Henry  now  re- 
quested permission  to  land,  and  during  his  absence  Mr.  Em- 
mons arrived.  A  second  message  soon  afterwards  came  from 
Mr.  Underwood,  requiring  another  hatchet  to  effect  his  pur- 
chase. Lieutenant  Alden  sent  the  hatchet,  with  directions  to 
Mr.  U.,  that  as  the  natives  did  not  appear  to  be  willing  to 
trade,  he  should  lose  no  time  in  coming  off  in  his  boat.  At 
this  moment  the  hostage  jumped  overboard,  and  made  for  the 
shore  in  a  diagonal  line  to  avoid  being  shot  at.     Mr.  Alden 


158  MASSACRE  OF  LIEUTENANT  UNDERWOOD 

immediately  leveled  his  gun  at  him,  and  ordered  him  to  stop ; 
he  slackened  his  pace  for  a  moment,  and  then  continued  to 
retreat,  upon  which  a  ball  was  fired  over  his  head,  but  none 
at  his  body,  lest  it  might  provoke  an  attack  on  Lieutenant 
Underwood.  The  escape  of  the  hostage  was  evidently  the 
preconcerted  signal  for  an  attack  on  the  shore-party.  The 
chief  immediately  gave  orders  to  make  fight,  by  the  cry  of 
"  Turanga,"  "  Turanga."  Mr.  Underwood  was  at  this  mo- 
ment knocked  down  and  wounded  in  the  shoulder  with  a 
spear,  but  he  recovered  from  the  stunning  effects  of  the  blow, 
and  killed  the  native  who  threw  the  spear.  At  the  same  time 
two  other  natives  seized  the  musket  of  a  sailor,  named  Clark, 
and  tried  to  wrest  it  from  him.  One  of  these  he  stabbed 
in  the  breast  with  his  sheath-knife,  the  other  Mr.  Underwood 
struck  on  the  head  with  the  butt-end  of  his  pistol,  upon  which 
both  relinquished  their  hold.  Lieutenant  Underw^ood  now 
ordered  the  crew  to  lose  no  time  in  regaining  the  boat,  while 
he  and  Mr.  Henry  covered  their  retreat.  In  this  effort  he 
killed  a  native  with  one  of  his  pistols,  and  was  in  the  act  of 
drawing  the  second  from  his  belt,  when  a  blow  which  he  re- 
ceived on  the  head,  brought  him  to  the  ground  almost  sense- 
less. Recovering  himself  he  renewed  the  contest,  and  killed 
another  native,  but  at  length  received  a  cut  across  the  fore- 
head with  a  pole-axe,  which  terminated  his  valuable  life. 

In  the  meantime  Mr.  Henry  had  shot  one  of  the  natives 
with  his  pistol-knife,  and  cut  another  down  with  the  same 
weapon,  but  seeing  Lieutenant  Underw^ood  dead,  was  hastening 
to  the  boat,  w^hen  a  missile  struck  him  on  the  back  of  the  head 
and  brought  him  to  the  ground.  Clark,  after  shooting  the 
man  who  killed  Mr.  Underwood,  succeeded  in  regaining  the 
boat,  but  was  severely  wounded. 

On  seeing  the  attack.    Lieutenants  Alden   and   Emmons 


?^ 


AND    MIDSHIPMAN    HENRY.  159 

steered  for  the  shore  with  the  boats  under  their  charge.  When 
the  boats  reached  the  beach,  the  savages  retreated  precipi- 
tately in  the  mangrove  bushes,  carrying  with  them  their  dead 
and  wounded.  Mr.  Alden  was  among  the  first  who  landed, 
and  going  up  to  Mr.  Underwood  he  raised  his  head,  and  asked 
him  if  he  had  anything  to  communicate  through  him  to  his 
poor  wife  ;  but,  alas  !  he  was  too  far  gone  to  speak.  His 
skull  was  literally  smashed  to  pieces.  Some  hopes  were  at 
first  entertained  that  Mr.  Henry  was  yet  alive,  but  when  a 
vein  was  opened  no  blood  was  found  to  flow.  Both  bodies  had 
been  stripped  by  the  natives,  and  were  laying  in  the  sand, 
whence  they  were  conveyed  to  the  boats.  Mr.  Emmons  took 
possession  of  a  canoe  that  the  natives  had  abandoned,  and  no 
enemy  being  now  in  sight,  the  boats,  with  colors  half-masted 
and  union  down,  sailed  across  the  isthmus  and  escaped  by  a  pas- 
sage, where  they  might  have  been  attacked  at  great  advantage. 

The  schooner  by  this  time  got  under-way  without  suspicion 
of  any  disaster.  The  sensation  that  was  excited  when  the 
boats  arrived  along-side  and  exposed  to  view  the  mangled 
bodies,  can  be  more  easily  imagined  than  described.  Captain 
Wilkes,  in  particular,  wept  over  them  like  a  child.  He  kissed 
his  nephew,  Mr.  Henry,  on  the  face  several  times,  and  then 
turning  around  to  Mr.  Underwood,  patted  him  on  the  breast 
and  repeated  the  words,  "  Poor  fellow."  Every  attention  was 
paid  to  the  wounded  and  dead,  that  aifection  and  regard  could 
dictate. 

There  being  no  doubt  from  the  reports  of  all  parties  pre- 
sent, that  this  outrage  was  entirely  unprovoked,  Captain 
Wilkes  determined  to  inflict  the  punishment  it  merited,  and 
this,  not  because  he  wished  to  gratify  any  feelings  of  revenge, 
but  for  the  sake  of  saving  the  lives  of  other  whites  who  might 
visit  the  Group  after  the  expedition  left. 


160  MASSACRE    OF    LIEUTENANT    UNDERWOOD 

Accordingly,  the  first  cutters  of  the  "  Vincennes "  and 
"  Peacock,"  now  in  charge  of  Mr.  Eld,  were  dispatched  to 
keep  guard  round  the  island,  and  prevent  the  escape  of  any  of 
the  inhabitants,  while  the  schooner  got  under-way,  and  pro- 
ceeded to  a  small  island  to  inter  the  dead.  Here  they  were 
laid  side  by  side  in  the  same  grave.  It  was  a  lonely  and  suit- 
able spot  that  had  been  chosen  in  a  shade  so  dense  that  scarce 
a  ray  of  the  sun  could  penetrate  it.  The  grave  was  dug  deep 
in  the  pure  white  sand,  and  sufficiently  wide  for  the  two 
corpses.  Mr.  Agate  read  the  funeral  service.  After  the 
graves  had  been  closed,  three  vollies  were  fired  over  them. 
Every  precaution  was  then  taken  to  obliterate  all  marks  that 
might  indicate  to  the  odious  cannibals,  the  resting-place  of  the 
sacred  dead.  Places  remote  from  the  grave  were  more  dis- 
turbed by  footsteps  and  digging  than  the  grave  itself,  and 
leaves  were  scattered  over  a  large  space  of  ground. 

The  islet  where  they  repose,  is  called  Henry's  island,  and 
the  cluster  to  which  it  belongs  bears  the  name  of  Under- 
wood's Group. 

A  single  canoe  attempted  to  leave  Malolo  during  the  burial 
of  the  dead,  but  was  driven  back  with  the  loss  of  one  of  her 
people.  The  natives  came  to  the  beach  in  large  numbers, 
taunting  the  boats  with  the  cry  of  "  Lagoini,  lagoini  papa 
langa  ;"  in  English,  "  Come  on,  come  on,  white  men  ;"  but 
the  orders  expressly  forbade  a  landing,  or  any  other  demon- 
stration which  might  abate  their  arrogant  confidence. 

About  noon  the  schooner  reached  her  former  berth,  and 
shortly  after  the  "  Porpoise  "  hove  in  sight.  When  she  an- 
chored, Mr.  Emmons  boarded  her,  and  communicated  the 
melancholy  news  to  Captain  Ringgold.  Preparations  were 
now  commenced  in  good  earnest  to  punish  the  savages  ;  the 
arms  were  got  in  good  order,  the  parties  duly  organized,  and 


AND    MIDSHIPMAN    HENRY.  161 

by  10  A.  M.  next  day  the  whole  of  the  disposable  force  of  the 
brig  and  schooner,  consisting  of  eighty  men,  landed  at  the 
west  side  of  the  island,  while  the  vessels  took  commanding 
positions  off  the  reef.  After  landing,  the  men  were  formed  in 
three  divisions,  and  took  up  their  line  of  march,  the  whole 
commanded  by  Captain  Ringgold.  On  arriving  at  the  princi- 
pal town,  they  found  it  to  be  of  a  large  size,  well  fortified  with 
strong  posts,  driven  into  the  ground  close  together,  and  the 
intervening  spaces  filled  up  with  a  kind  of  wicker-work,  and 
the  whole  surrounded  by  a  deep  ditch,  filled  with  water. 

When  within  a  few  yards  of  the  entrance,  which  was  a  small 
low  gate,  scarcely  large  enough  to  admit  one  person,  the  prin- 
cipal chief  came  out,  and  made  the  following  taunting  speech  : 
^'  Come  on  ;  I  and  my  people  are  ready  for  you  ;  Fejee  men 
are  good  to  eat,  but  white  men  are  better,  and  intend  this 
night  to  have  some  of  you  for  supper.  Fejee  men  like  to  eat 
white  men  ;  we  are  glad  to  see  you  ;  yes,  we  are  glad  to  see 
you."  He  then  rallied  his  men,  and  ordered  them  to  fire  at 
our  people  from  behind  the  fortifications. 

Captain  Ringgold  now  made  a  signal  for  two  of  the  divisions, 
which  had  been  sent  to  destroy  the  yam-patches,  and  cut 
down  the  cocoa-nut  trees,  to  join  him,  which  they  did  with 
great  alacrity.  He  then  formed  the  whole  in  one  line,  and 
marched  up  to  the  intrenchments,  under  a  heavy  shower  of 
spears  and  arms.  He  next  directed  several  rockets  to  be  set 
ofi*  in  hopes  of  firing  the  town,  and  thus  compel  the  savages  to 
abandon  their  intrenchments  ;  but  this  did  not  produce  the 
desired  effect,  and  he  therefore  opened  his  fire  upon  the  forti- 
fication. Now  was  seen  what  many  of  those  present  had  not 
before  believed,  the  expertness  with  which  these  people  dodge 
a  shot  at  the  flash  of  a  gun  ;  still  our  men  took  plenty  of  time 
in  firing,  and  the  number  of  killed  and  wounded  of  the  enemy 


162  MASSACRE    OF    LIEUTENANT    UNDERWOOD 


was  immense.  Upwards  of  twenty  were  seen  to  fall  at  the 
first  volley.  In  this  manner  was  the  contest  kept  up  until  the 
principal  chief  was  shot  dead,  a  circumstance,  which,  together 
with  the  half-burned  state  of  the  town — for  the  rockets  even- 
tually set  a  large  hut  on  fire — spread  a  great  panic  among 
them,  and  they  fled  through  a  gate,  which  was  intentionally 
left  unattacked,  carrying  their  dead  and  wounded  on  their 
backs.  At  this  moment  a  volley  of  musketry  might  have 
greatly  increased  the  destruction  of  lives ;  but  as  women  and 
children  could  be  distinguished  amid  the  throng  of  fugitives, 
the  order  was  given  to  cease  firing,  and  they  were  allowed  to 
escape. 

Our  people  now  marched  into  the  town,  and  threw  upon 
the  flames  whatever  they  found  that  might  be  valuable  to 
the  enemy.  This  involved  the  destruction  of  the  whole 
wealth  of  the  island,  which  had  been  centered  here  on  ac- 
count of  its  great  strength.  This  fact  serves  to  show  that 
the  savages  were  not  ignorant  of  the  consequences  that  were 
likely  to  follow  their  foul  deed,  and  had  made  timely  prepara- 
tions for  defending  themselves. 

Several  things  that  had  belonged  to  Mr.  Underwood  were 
seen  among  the  ruins.  A  little  child,  who  seemed  to  have  lost 
its  parents,  and  whom  our  people  endeavored  to  avoid  shooting 
during  the  conflict,  was  burned  to  death  in  one  of  the  houses. 
The  dead  that  the  natives  had  been  obliged  to  leave  behind, 
were  all  found  shot  through  the  head.  Many  lay  beside  a 
mound  which  had  been  but  recently  rai-sed  for  additional 
security. 

While  Captain  Ringgold  and  party  were  thus  employed  on 
shore.  Captain  Wilkes  and  Messrs.  Alden  and  Emmons  were 
not  less  active  on  the  water.  Scarcely  had  the  action  com- 
menced with  the  town,  when  two  large  canoes  were  seen  stand- 


AND    MIDSHIPMAN    HENRY.  163 

ing  over  from  Vita  Leva.  Immediately  the  signal  to  intercept 
them  was  made,  and  Mr.  Emmons  reached  them  first,  and 
made  signs  to  them  to  heave- to ;  but  they  stood  on  their  course 
to  Malolo.  Upon  this  Mr.  Emmons  announced  his  intention 
to  destroy  them.  Several  were  killed  at  the  first  fire,  and  the 
rest  jumped  overboard  and  made  for  the  shore.  Mr.  Emmons 
continued  to  fire  at  the  fugitives  until  he  fell  in  with  Captain 
Wilkes,  who  directed  him  to  spare  the  lives  of  the  survivors, 
but  make  them  prisoners.  Lieutenant  Emmons  had  already 
rescued  a  little  child,  and  now  attempted  to  save  its  mother. 
This  woman  had  at  first  been  taken  for  a  man,  and  fired  upon 
from  Captain  Wilkes's  boat,  but  when  the  error  was  dis- 
covered they  ceased  firing,  and  hastened  to  her  rescue.  In 
her  alarm,  however,  she  mistook  the  design,  and  continually 
dived  to  avoid  the  boat,  so  that  they  were  obliged  to  abandon 
her,  and  she  swam  towards  Vita  Leva,  ten  miles  distant. 
We  heard  afterwards  that  she  had  safely  arrived  there.  The 
other  prisoners  taken  by  the  boats  were  the  head-chief's  wife, 
two  girls,  each  about  sixteen  years  of  age,  and  a  boy  about  five 
years  old.  After  taking  the  prisoners  to  the  brig,  where  they 
were  kindly  treated  by  both  officers  and  sailors,  all  the  boats 
proceeded  to  the  leeward  part  of  the  island  to  destroy  another 
town.  When  they  had  almost  reached  the  place,  the  shore- 
party  hailed,  and  informed  them  that  five  canoes  had  been 
seen  to  put  ofi"  from  the  western- side  of  the  island.  Mr. 
Emmons  was  forthwith  dispatched  after  them,  while  the  other 
boats  remained  to  destroy  the  town,  which  they  speedily  ac- 
complished. 

After  a  very  long  and  fatiguing  pull,  Mr.  Emmons  overtook 
the  fugitives.  They  were  at  first  some  distance  apart,  but  as 
he  approached  them  they  closed  their  line,  and  stood  ready  for 
an  attack.     Their  numbers  were  partly  concealed  behind  a 


164  MASSACRE    OF    LIEUTENANT    UNDERWOOD 

breastwork  of  baskets,  filled  with  roots,  which  they  had  thrown 
up  for  the  occasion.  Mr.  Emmons  wished  to  pull  to  wind- 
ward to  avail  himself  of  a  light  breeze,  but  he  had  only  got  a 
few  yards  off  when  some  of  the  canoes  appeared  disposed  to 
commence  the  attack,  and  executed  a  manoeuvre  by  which 
they  expected  to  get  his  boat  on  the  reef  when  she  might  be 
carried  by  boarding.  But  Mr.  Emmons  brought  his  blunder- 
buss to  bear  upon  the  natives,  and  ordered  them  to  change 
their  course,  which,  strange  to  say,  they  had  the  folly  to  do. 
Being  now  where  there  was  plenty  of  water.  Lieutenant  Em- 
mons opened  fire  upon  the  canoes.  Large  numbers  were 
killed  and  wounded,  and  the  rest  leaped  overboard.  During 
the  pursuit  which  followed,  several  of  the  fugitives  gained  a 
canoe  which  had  drifted  out  from  the  shore,  and  put  oflf  to 
seaward,  passing  over  a  reef  upon  which  there  was  not  suffi- 
cient water  for  the  boat  to  float.  Three  of  the  captured 
canoes  were  cleared  of  their  "  lumber,"  and  taken  along-side 
the  ''  Porpoise."  The  fourth  being  badly  stove,  was  left  on 
the  reef  until  next  morning,  when  she  was  also  secured. 

Subsequent  investigation  confirmed  the  opinion,  that  these 
canoes  had  left  the  island  with  the  express  intention  of  cut- 
ting off  Mr.  Emmons.  Their  known  loss  was  twenty-seven 
men ;  but  there  is  good  reason  to  believe  that  it  was  much 
greater.  Our  own  party  had  the  good  fortune  to  escape  with 
a  few  slight  wounds. 

It  was  Captain  Wilkes's  intention  to  renew  the  attack 
next  day,  (27th,)  but  early  in  the  morning  one  of  the  women 
who  had  been  liberated  the  preceding  day,  came  down  to  the 
beach,  and  begged  for  mercy  to  the  survivors,  describing  in 
moving  terms  the  misery  to  which  they  had  been  reduced. 

Captain  Wilkes  told  her  to  return  to  those  who  sent  her, 
and  state  that  he  would  not  listen  to  the  mediation  of  women ; 


AND    MIDSHIPMAN    HENRY.  165 

but  a  little  while  after  he  dispatched  two  boys,  who  had  been 
captured  by  Mr.  Emmons,  to  order  all  the  people  on  the 
island  to  assemble  by  noon  on  a  certain  hill,  and  receive  our 
terms.  The  prisoners  were  directed  to  add,  that,  if  the  order 
was  not  obeyed,  hostilities  would  be  renewed.  At  11  A.  M. 
the  whole  party  of  men  who  had  been  on  shore  the  previous 
day  landed,  and  formed  into  a  hallow- square,  to  await  the  ap- 
proach of  the  natives ;  but  none  appeared.  Twelve  o'clock 
arrived,  and  they  still  kept  away.  At  last  they  began  to 
appear,  moving  slowly  on  their  hands  and  knees,  and  filling 
the  air  with  their  wailings. 

When  yet  a  considerable  distance  off  they  halted,  and  sent 
messengers  to  say  that  they  were  afraid  to  approach  nearer  ; 
but  the  messenger  was  ordered  to  tell  them  that  they  must  do 
as  they  had  been  directed  in  the  morning.  On  receiving  this 
answer,  they  resumed  their  wailings,  and  at  the  same  time 
moved  towards  the  hill.  Every  now  and  then  they  would  stop 
and  raising  their  faces  from  the  ground  send  up  a  piteous  cry. 
In  this  way  did  they  manage,  until  at  last  they  reached  the 
spot  where  Captain  Wilkes  was  standing,  when  they  threw 
themselves  at  his  feet. 

After  a  minute  or  two,  one  of  their  old  men  began  in  a  tone 
of  the  deepest  humility  to  supplicate  forgiveness,  and  to  promise 
that  the  people  of  Malolo  would  never  again  kill  white  man. 
He  added,  that  they  acknowledged  themselves  conquered  and 
that  the  island  belonged  to  us  ;  that  they  had  lost  everything  ; 
that  the  two  great  chiefs  of  the  island  and  all  their  best  war- 
riors had  been  killed  ;  all  their  provisions  destroyed,  and  their 
houses  burned ;  that  they  were  now  convinced  that  the  white 
men  were  better  warriors  than  the  Fejee  men.  During  the 
whole  time  he  was  speaking,  all  the  others  remained  bent  down 
with  their  heads  touching  the  ground. 


166  FEJEE      SLANDS. 


They  were  asked  many  questions,  and  among  others,  what  had 
induced  them  to  commit  the  murder.  They  admitted  that  Lieut. 
Underwood  and  Mr.  Henry  had  done  nothing  to  offend  them, 
and  that  they  had  been  killed  without  the  slightest  cause. 

Captain  Wilkes  now  told  them  that  he  would  grant  them 
pardon,  but  they  must  supply  the  squadron  with  water  and 
provisions  ;  with  which  conditions  they  agreed  to  comply. 

The  next  day  they  appeared  on  the  beach  and  fulfilled  their 
agreement.  This  was  according  to  their  custom,  that  the 
conquered  should  work  for  the  victors.  They  acknowledged 
their  loss  to  be  about  one  hundred  persons  ;  we  did  not  lose  in 
the  combat,  a  single  life,  and  only  very  few  were  wounded. 
These  wounds  were  inflicted  with  spears  and  arrows,  for  their 
fire-arms  were  rendered  harmless  by  being  over-charged.  It 
is  said  to  be  their  practice  to  put  charges  into  them  according 
to  the  size  of  the  person  they  intend  to  fire  at ;  they  almost  fill 
the  barrel  with  powder  when  they  shoot  at  a  large  man. 

Thus  ended  this  affair,  an  awful  and  a  severe  lesson  to  the 
savages,  but  not  more  so  than  they  deserved.  It  must  be  re- 
membered that  the  murderers  were  looked  upon  by  their 
own  countrymen  as  a  set  of  pirates.  I  think  it  would  be  a 
blessing  to  the  whole  race  if  the  United  States  or  some  other 
civilized  nation  would  conquer  them  into  subjection  and  order. 
It  would  at  once  put  an  end  to  their  dissensions  and  barbari- 
ties, and  afford  encouragement  to  commerce  and  safety  to  per- 
son and  property. 

The  moment  Captain  Hudson  received  intelligence  of  the 
melancholy  disaster,  he  directed  the  ship's  colors  to  be  half- 
masted,  and  issued  the  following  order  : — 

"  Information  having  been  received  from  the  commander  of 
the  expedition,  of  the  death  of  Lieutenant  Joseph  A.  Under- 


FEJEE    ISLANDS.  167 


wood  and  Midshipman  Wilkes  Henry,  on  the  12th  instant, 
who  were  treacherously  murdered  by  the  natives  of  Malolo, 
one  of  the  Fejee  Islands,  the  officers  of  the  United  States 
ships  "  Vincennes  "  and  "  Peacock  "  will  wear  the  usual 
badge  of  mourning  for  thirty  days,  as  a  testimony  of  regard 
for  the  memory  of  their  departed  brother  officers,  who  have 
been  suddenly  cut  off  from  their  sphere  of  usefulness  in  the 
expedition,  while  arduously  engaged  in  the  pierformance  of 
their  public  duty. 

(Signed)  ''William  L.  Hudson, 

"  Commanding  U.  S.  Ship  '  Peacock.' 
"  Fejee  Islands.^^ 

On  the  2d  of  August,  the  whale-ship  "  Triton,''  fifteen 
months  from  the  United  States,  arrived ;  as  also  the  schooner 
"  Tyvity,"  with  three  thousand  yams.  The  latter  likewise 
brought  as  passengers,  the  second-mate  and  cooper  of  the 
American  whale-ship  "  Shylock,"  which  was  lost  on  a  reef* 
off  Turtle  Island,  a  few  weeks  since.  It  appears  from  their 
account  that  the  loss  of  this  fine  ship  is  to  be  attributed  to  the 
negligence  of  the  man  who  had  the  "  look-out "  forward  at 
the  time  the  accident  occurred.  They  charge  him  of  going  to 
sleep,  and  not  knowing  the  danger  the  ship  was  in  until  she 
had  struck. 

The  captain  and  the  first-mate  have  proceeded  to  Hobart 
Town  in  an  English  brig.  The  second-mate  has  shipped  on 
board  the  "  Triton,"  and  is  said  to  have  behaved  in  the  most 
shameful  manner,  refusing  to  assist  the  surviving  sufferers, 

♦  The  position  of  this  reef  was  afterwards  determined  by  the  brig  **  Porpoise."  It 
lies  in  latitude  19°  48'  00"  south,  and  longitude  178°  35'  00"  west.  The  reef  is  six-and- 
a-half  miles  long,  and  has  an  illiptical  form.  Turtle  Island  is  about  nine  miles  in  cir- 
cumference, and  has  a  few  inhabitants,  whose  manners  and  customs  are  similar  to 
those  of  the  Tonga  people. 


168  FEJEE    ISLANDS. 


and  left  them  on  the  wreck,  exposed  to  the  cruelties  of  the 
natives. 

August  Tth,  the  "  Porpoise  "  came  in  and  anchored.  She 
left  Ovalau  on  the  4th  instant.  Captain  Wilkes  was  there 
in  the  "  Flying  Fish/'  and  was  to  follow  the  brig  in  a  few 
days. 

During  the  afternoon  of  the  8th ,  a  meeting  was  held  on 
board  the  "  Peacock,"  when  Captain  Hudson  was  called  to 
the  chair,  and  Lieutenant  R.  E.  Johnson  appointed  secretary. 
The  chair  announced  that  the  object  of  the  meeting  was  to 
obtain  a  joint  expression  of  feeling  in  relation  to  the  death  of 
Lieutenant  Joseph  A.  Underwood  and  Midshipman  Wilkes 
Henry,  who,  on  the  24th  day  of  July  last,  were  treacherously 
killed  by  the  natives  of  Malolo. 

On  motion,  a  committee,  consisting  of  Lieut.  Johnson,  Dr. 
J.  C.  Palmer,  Mr.  William  Rich  (botanist).  Passed  Midship- 
man Blunt,  and  Midshipman  Blair,  were  appointed  to  draft 
resolutions  befitting  this  melancholy  occasion. 

The  committee  retired,  in  obedience  to  their  instructions ; 
and  after  a  short  recess,  the  meeting  was  called  to  order 
again,  and  the  chairman  of  the  committee  reported  the  follow- 
ing resolutions,  which  were  unanimously  adopted  : — 

Resolved,  That  amid  the  toils  and  dangers  which  the 
officers  of  this  expedition  have  been  called  upon  to  encounter, 
they  could  have  incurred  no  deeper  calamity  than  the  untimely 
death  of  their  beloved  coadjutors,  Lieutenant  Joseph  A.  Under- 
wood and  Midshipman  Wilkes  Henry. 

Resolved,  That  the  loss  of  these  gentlemen  is  most  deeply 
mourned,  not  only  on  account  of  their  personal  worth,  but 
from  our  sincere  interest  in  the  expedition,  which  has  been 
deprived  of  two  of  its  most  efficient  officers. 

Resolved,  That  the  energetic  and  persevering  manner  in 


FEJEE    ISLANDS.  169 


which  the  lamented  dead  performed  all  duties,  however 
arduous,  afford,  an  example  worthy  our  emulation ;  and  that 
the  strongest  terms  of  sympathy  with  their  friends  at  home 
are  inadequate  to  the  expression  of  our  regret. 

Resolved,  That,  as  a  mark  of  affection  and  respect  for 
our  lost  associates,  we  cause  a  monument,  designed  among 
ourselves,  to  be  erected  tc  their  memory  in  the  cemetery  at 
Mount  Auburn. 

Resolved,  That  a  copy  of  these  resolutions  be  transmitted 
to  the  bereaved  relatives  of  Lieutenant  Underwood  and  Mid- 
shipman Henry. 

It  was  further  resolved,  that  a  committee  of  nine  persons 
be  appointed  to  carry  the  foregoing  resolutions  into  effect; 
and  that  this  committee  consist  of  the  following  gentlemen,  to 
wit :— Captain  William  L.  Hudson,  Lieut.  James  Alden, 
Lieut.  H.  L.  Case,  Dr.  J.  C.  Palmer,  Mr.  T.  R.  Peal,  (orni- 
thologist), Passed  Midshipman  S.  F.  Blunt,  Purser  Wm. 
Speiden,  Midshipman  George  W.  Clark,  Midshipman  J.  L. 
Blair. 

It  was  next  moved  and  resolved,  that  the  sum  of  two  thou- 
sand dollars  be  appropriated  for  the  erection  of  the  monument ; 
and  that  the  pursers  of  the  expedition  be  authorized  to  charge 
the  said  sum  to  the  officers  and  scientific  corps,  in  proportion 
to  the  rate  of  their  several  salaries. 

The  subject  of  an  inscription  was  referred  to  a  future 
meeting,  and  the  committee  were  instructed  to  select  a  model 
from  the  designs  which  they  might  hereafter  receive. 

The  meeting  then  adjourned. 

On  the  9th  of  August,  the  "  Flying  Fish  "  arrived,  and 
Captain  Wilkes  rejoined  the  "  Vincennes." 

Next  day,  it  being  Sunday,  the  chaplain  of  the  squadron 
delivered    a    sermon  on   the  death   of  Messrs.   Underwood 


.^S-vvCt^ 


170  FEJEE    ISLANDS. 


and  Henry.     The  following  portions  of  it  may  be  interest- 
ing :— 

Lieutenant  Joseph  A.  Underwood,  was  born  July  15 th, 
1811.  He  entered  the  Navy  of  the  United  States  in  1829, 
and  since  that  time  had  been  almost  constantly  employed  in 
active  service.  He  was  one  of  the  officers  earliest  attached  to 
the  expedition  in  which  we  are  embarked,  and  had  been  nearly 
four  years  connected  with  it,  at  the  time  of  his  decease.  With 
some  of  you,  he  encountered  the  dangers  and  hardships  inci- 
dent to  a  passage  round  the  stormy  Cape  and  of  Noir  Island ; 
saw  and  endured  with  manly  exposure  the  more  appalling 
prospect  that  tried  men's  souls.  For  a  year  previous  to  his 
death,  with  us  who  survive,  he  shared  the  risks  in  the  ship,  in 
the  boat,  and  on  shore,  peculiar  to  a  passage  among  the  reefs 
and  islets  that  thickly  stud  this  southern  sea.  With  health 
unbroken,  he  sustained  the  blighting  heat  and  piercing  cold  of 
the  torrid  and  the  frigid  zones,  as  we  passed  rapidly  from 
clime  to  clime.  He  bore  unmoved,  the  arduous  toils,  priva- 
tions, and  perils  of  our  southern  cruise,  when,  amid  the  ice- 
islands  of  the  Polar  Ocean,  we  threaded  our  devious  and 
often  dangerous  way.  With  us  he  visited  these  barbarous 
islands,  and  had  been  repeatedly  engaged  in  the  arduous  and 
perilous  duty  in  which  he  met  his  melancholy  and  untimely 
fate.  Our  lamented  friend  had  been  married  but  a  few  weeks, 
when  he  left  his  native  land,  and  had  completed  his  twenty- 
ninth  year,  only  two  days  previous  to  his  leaving  the  ship  for 
the  last  time.  While  I  recognize  the  charitable  sentiment — 
"  Nought  of  the  dead,  but  good,"  I  am  happy  to  assure  you, 
that  in  relation  to  our  departed  friends,  it  will  be  in  perfect 
accordance  with  that  sentiment  to  say,  "  Nought  of  the  dead 
but  truth."  With  the  Roman  orator,  I  can  say,  I  come  to 
bury  our  fallen  friends,  not  to  praise  them.     And  if  a  year's 


FEJEE    ISLANDS.  171 


acquaintance  can  give  me  an  opportunity  to  judge,  I  can  tes- 
tify to  his  amiability  and  worth.  His  deportment  was  distin- 
guished by  a  studious  regard  to  propriety  and  decorum,  and  in 
his  conversation  and  conduct,  he  respected  the  feelings  and 
sentiments  of  those  with  whom  he  was  associated.  His  man- 
ners and  address  were  those  of  an  accomplished  gentleman. 
There  was  no  affected  distance  or  reserve,  or  any  manifest 
consciousness  of  superior  understanding.  His  politeness  was 
not  merely  external,  but  that  of  the  heart.  In  his  intercourse 
with  men  of  every  condition,  his  conduct  was  dictated  by 
benevolence  and  regulated  by  that  great  law  of  moral  equity, 
"  To  do  unto  others  as  you  would  wish  them  do  unto  you,"  and 
in  all  that  intercourse  his  intentions  were  just,  kind,  generous 
and  noble.  In  forming  his  opinions  he  was  independent — in 
maintaining  them  he  was  firm.  "  Decision  of  character  was 
in- wrought  in  the  very  texture  of  his  mind.''  He  was  afraid 
of  no  man.  When  he  had  assumed  a  position,  dictated  by  wis- 
dom and  prudence,  he  maintained  it  unawed  by  any  opposition 
which  might  be  brought  against  him.  His  temperament  was 
ardent,  but  under  discipline ;  of  that  kindness  and  principle 
which  led  him  to  respect  the  feelings  and  prejudices  of  others, 
it  had  been  chastened,  and  subdued.  In  the  performance  of 
any  duty,  he  was  remarkable  for  untiring  diligence,  and  un- 
ceasing perseverance.  In  a  highly  creditable  knowledge  of  his 
profession  he  added  various  collateral  attainments  and  polite 
accomplishments.  His  acquaintance  with  pure  mathematics,  as 
applicable  to  astronomy,  navigation,  and  surveying,  was  known 
to  you  all.  He  was  familiar  with  several  of  the  modern  lan- 
guages of  Europe ;  and  who  has  not  seen  the  chaste,  beautiful 
and  faithful  productions  of  his  pencil,  with  which  his  portfolio 
was  enriched  1  In  regard  to  his  intellectual  character,  he  pos- 
sessed a  mind  of  the  first  order.     His  conceptions  were  clear. 


172  FEJEE    ISLANDS. 


concise  and  vivid  ;  his  judgment  was  remarkably  correct ;  he 
reasoned  with  calm  deliberation,  and  examined  a  subject  with 
a  prodigious  grasp  of  mind  in  all  extensive  bearings.  If  it 
embraced  numerous  and  various  particulars,  he  directed  his 
attention  to  each,  and  suspended  his  decision  until  he  had  ex- 
amined them  all. 

Having  thus  with  a  well-balanced  mind  looked  through  a 
subject,  he  rarely  had  occasion  to  retrace  his  steps,  or  renounce 
the  conclusions  to  which  he  had  arrived.  A  correct  and 
refined  taste  enabled  him  to  see  and  appreciate  whatever 
was  sublime,  and  beautiful  in  art  or  nature;  and  his  memory 
retained  with  fidelity  that  rich  variety  of  facts  and  sentiments 
which  his  reading  and  observation  had  committed  to  its  charge. 
Such,  my  hearers,  were  some  of  the  principal  traits  which  dis- 
tinguished the  character  of  our  lamented  companion  and  friend. 
With  his  immediate  relations  I  had  not  the  happiness  of  being 
acquainted ;  but  from  all  I  can  learn,  he  was  a  dutiful  and 
grateful  son,  a  kind  brother,  and  a  faithful  and  affectionate 
husband  to  the  now  widowed  partner  of  his  bosom. 

I  have  thus  briefly  and  imperfectly  touched  upon  the  cha- 
racter of  the  lamented  Underwood. 

It  only  remains  to  say  of  the  much-loved  companion 
of  his  untimely  fate,  that  many  of  the  traits  which  Under- 
wood possessed,  belonged  to  Henry,  with  a  due  reference 
between  them  in  age  and  experience  in  the  service.  The 
loved  and  lost  Henry — the  cherished  object  of  affection  of 
his  widowed  mother — was  deservedly  dear  to  us  all.  He 
was  a  youth,  manly  beyond  his  years.  He  possessed  in 
an  eminent  degree,  that  propriety  and  dignity  of  demeanor 
which  commanded  the  respect  of  all  his  inferiors,  and  won  and 
retamed  the  esteem  and  confidence  of  his  superiors  and  asso- 
ciates.    He  was  distinguished  for  zeal  and  devotedness  to  the 


FEJEE    ISLANDS.  173 


service,  disinterestedness,  fortitude  and  courage — a  varied 
combination  of  excellencies — which  rendered  him  an  honor  to 
his  profession,  and  afforded  high  hopes  of  future  distinction. 
His  memory  is  precious,  and  will  not  be  forgotten ;  and  to  you, 
the  junior  oflBcers  of  the  squadron,  so  lately  his  youthful  com- 
panions and  compeers,  I  would  say,  embalm  his  excellencies 
of  character  by  imitating  them  in  your  Uves  ;  and  if  you  have 
not  chosen  a  better  maxim  for  your  guidance  through  life, 
take  this  from  one  who  loves  you  all — "  Dare  always  to  do 
right,  and  only  dread  to  sin  against  God." 

On  the  11th  of  August,  at  an  early  hour,  we  bade  adieu  to 
the  Fejee  Islands,  and  stood  for  Honolulu. 


174  FEJEE    GROUP. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

FEJEE    GROUP. 

The  Fejee  Group  is  composed  of  one  hundred  and  fifty-five 
islands,  of  which  number  one  hundred  are  uninhabitable,  on 
account  of  their  sterility  and  want  of  water ;  the  remaining 
number  possess  an  excellent  soil,  and  abound  in  mountain 
streams — for  the  islands  are  of  a  mountainous  character, 
some  of  the  peaks  having  an  altitude  of  nearly  five  thousand 
feet.  The  valleys  are  beautiful,  and  in  some  places  well  cul- 
tivated. Yams  and  dry  taro  are  the  principal  crops  ;  sugar- 
cane grows  spontaneously  and  of  an  excellent  quality.  The 
natives  do  not  make  sugar,  but  manufacture  large  quantities 
of  molasses,  and  they  use  the  leaf  of  the  plant  to  cover  the 
roofs  of  their  houses. 

The  principal  towns  are  Rewa  and  Ambou,  situated  on  the 
east  side  of  Vitilevu ;  they  contain  about  four  thousand  inhab- 
itants each,  and,  as  I  have  before  observed,  the  latter  is  the 
residence  of  King  Tanoa,  the  most  powerful  chief  in  the  group. 

The  climate,  though  warm,  is  pleasant  and  salubrious. 
During  our  long  stay  at  Ovalaou,  we  experienced  very  httle 
rainy  weather.  The  mean  temperature  on  board  the  ship  was 
76°.  The  population,  according  to  the  best  information  ob- 
tainable at  this  time,  is  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  thou- 
sand. It  is  utterly  impossible  to  have  precise  data  on  this 
subject,  for  the  white  men  residing  in  the  group,  have  not  had 
access  to  all  the  islands,  nor  can  we  depend  on  native  inform- 


FEJEE    GROUP.  175 


ation  as  each  chief  is  anxious  to  swell  the  number  of  his 
fighting  men.  They  are  evidently  a  distinct  race  from  the 
rest  of  the  Polynesians.  They  are  of  a  color  almost  black, 
while  their  hair  is  frizzled  or  crisped,  though  not  so  much  so  as 
the  Africans  ;  the  nose  is  broad  and  flat,  and  the  eyes  are  jet 
black,  and  have  a  wild,  restless  expression.  They  are  person- 
ally well-formed,  muscular,  and  of  good  size.  The  men  have 
a  custom  of  bedaubing  their  faces  and  bodies  with  a  mixture  of 
lamp-black  and  cocoa-nut  oil,  which  gives  them  a  disgusting 
appearance. 

In  character,  they  are  cruel,  deceitful,  passionate,  and 
treacherous.  We  had  repeated  proofs  of  the  latter  in  their 
various  attempts  to  surprise  and  cut  off  our  boats,  while  em- 
ployed in  surveying  duties.  Another  universal  trait  in  their 
character  is  covetousness,  and  is  the  incentive  to  stealing,  and 
many  other  odious  acts.  They  are  also  great  cannibals  ;  indeed, 
they  carry  this  revolting  practice  to  a  greater  extent  than  any 
other  savages  yet  known  to  the  civilized  world.  The  bodies  of 
enemies  slain  in  battle  do  not  satisfy  their  appetite  for  it.  Vio- 
lence, stratagem,  and  sacrifices  to  the  gods,  are  resorted  to 
for  this  horrible  purpose.  The  chiefs  are  fond  of  giving  en- 
tertainments, and,  on  such  occasions,  human  flesh,  either 
roasted  or  boiled,  is  handed  round  to  the  guest.  When  a  new 
spirit-house  is  built,  several  human  beings  are  slaughtered, 
and  the  bodies  eaten  by  the  Abati,  or  priest,  and  his  friends. 

The  usual  dress  of  the  men  consists  of  the  maro,  and  of  the 
women,  a  sort  of  apron  or  girdle  about  eighteen  inches  in 
width.  Children  of  both  sexes,  until  they  arrive  at  the  age  of 
puberty,  go  entirely  naked.  Women  only  are  tattooed — the 
operation  is  performed  by  persons  of  their  own  sex — and  the 
parts  thus  ornamented  are  those  concealed  by  the  dress,  and 
sometimes  the  lips  and  fingers.     The  women  firmly  believe 


176  FEJEE    GROUP. 


that  to  be  tattooed  is  a  passport  to  the  world  of  spirits,  so  much 
so,  that  if  a  girl  dies  before  the  operation  is  performed,  they 
paint  a  semblance  of  it,  by  which  means  they  expect  to  deceive 
the  gods. 

It  is  the  custom  for  grown  persons  of  both  sexes  to  powder 
their  hair  with  the  soot  collected  from  the  smoke  of  the  wood 
called  "  tooi-tooi,"  or  else  with  Hme.  In  using  either  of  these 
substances  they  diffuse  it  plentifully  in  a  large  calabash  of 
water,  in  which  they  dip  their  heads  frequently.  When  they 
have  got  on  a  sufficient  quantity,  they  place  themselves  before 
a  mirror,  and  with  a  sort  of  comb  and  a  stick  about  twelve 
inches  long,  and  pointed  at  both  ends,"  they  work  the  hair 
up,  until  it  has  acquired  the  size  and  appearance  of  an  im- 
mense peruke.  The  natural  color  of  their  hair  is  black,  but 
by  the  use  of  lime  and  carbon  and  other  coloring  matter,  they 
make  all  the  various  shades  between  black  and  red ;  many  of 
which  colors,  in  numerous  instances,  decorate  the  same  head. 
Some  are  white  in  front,  black  behind,  and  red  on  the  sides. 
Those  who  have  been  deprived  of  their  hair  by  nature  or  acci- 
dent, supply  the  defect  by  wigs,  which  are  so  skillfully  made  as 
scarcely  to  be  distinguishable  from  the  genuine  natural  growth. 

They  eat  with  their  fingers  ;  and  in  serving  up  their  food, 
they  always  sweep  off  the  mats  or  lay  down  new  ones,  placing 
the  victuals  upon  fresh  leaves.  They  take  their  principal 
meal  in  the  evening,  over  which  they  spend  much  time.  In 
drinking,  they  throw  their  heads  back,  hold  the  vessel  six  or 
eight  inches  from  the  lips,  and  allow  the  water  to  run  into  the 
mouth,  as  if  from  a  spout.  The  white  residents  speak  highly 
of  the  cooking,  and  say,  they  have  seen  at  the  feast  given  by 
the  chiefs  from  twenty  to  thirty  different  sorts  of  dishes. 

Their  language  is  copious  and  pleasing  to  the  ear.  The 
missionaries  are  endeavoring  to  reduce  it  to  writing.     It  fur- 


FEJEE    GROUP.  177 


nishes  words  for  expressing  every  emotion  of  the  mind.  They 
have  also  distinctive  names  for  all  the  plants,  trees,  and  other 
subjects  of  the  vegetable  kingdom  that  grow  under  their 
climate.  The  language  aflfords  various  forms  of  salutation, 
according  to  the  rank  of  the  parties.  When  the  common 
people  approach  a  "  duowa  turanga,"  or  a  chief,  they  cry  out, 
"  Duowa,''  to  which  the  chief  replies,  "  Wa."  If  the  chief  is 
on  his  route,  they  turn  out  of  his  path,  squat  on  their  haunches, 
and  lower  their  clubs  to  the  ground.  Women  make  their 
salutations  in  words  different  from  those  employed  by  the 
men.  They  have  also  forms  of  expression  equivalent  to 
our  "  No,  sir,"  and  "  Yes,  sir.'' 

Their  mode  of  sending  messages  is  peculiar  : — The  messen- 
ger is  furnished  with  as  many  sticks  or  reeds  as  the  message 
contains  separate  subjects.  The  sticks  are  of  various  lengths, 
in  order  to  distinguish  them  from  each  other.  When  the 
messenger  arrives  at  his  destination,  he  delivers  the  reeds 
successively,  and  with  each  of  them  repeats  the  purport  of  the 
message  of  which  it  is  a  memorial.  The  reply  is  conveyed 
after  the  same  manner. 

Women  are  treated  as  inferior  beings  ;  they  are  prohibited 
from  entering  the  spirit-houses  or  eating  human  flesh.  The 
girls  of  the  lower  classes  of  a  tribe,  are  entirely  at  the  disposal 
of  the  chief,  who  may  sell  them  to  transient  strangers,  or  do 
anything  else  with  them  he  pleases.  Wives,  besides  taking 
care  of  their  children,  and  doing  the  work  about  the  house, 
are  obliged  to  assist  the  men  in  cultivating  the  soil ;  if  they 
misbehave  they  are  tied  to  a  tree  and  flogged. 

At  the  age  of  fourteen,  boys  undergo  the  operation  of  cir- 
cumcision, which  is  performed  after  the  manner  of  the  Jews. 
Young  girls  allow  their  hair  to  grow  in  long  locks,  and  usually 
decorate  them  with  flowers  of  various  colors.     They  are  also 


178  FEJEE    GROUP. 


fond  of  painting  their  noses  and  cheeks  with  vermilion. 
After  marriage  the  curls  are  cut  off,  and  the  hair  is  kept  short 
and  frizzled. 

Polygamy,  in  its  greatest  extent,  is  practised — some  of  the 
chiefs  having  from  ten  to  one  hundred  wives.  The  woman, 
however,  who  is  pf  the  best  family  is  always  looked  upon  as 
the  principal  wife — all  the  others  being  required  to  yield  im- 
plicit obedience  to  her.  The  daughters  of  chiefs  are  usually 
betrothed  early  in  life.  If  the  betrothed  husband  dies  before 
the  girl  grows  up,  the  next  brother  takes  his  place.  The 
parties  may  be  frequently  seen  walking  arm-in-arm  after  they 
are  engaged.  Among  the  lower  classes,  however,  marriages 
are  mere  matters  of  bargain,  and  wives  are  looked  upon  as 
property.  The  usual  price  is  a  musket  or  a  whale's  tooth. 
If  detected  in  infidelity,  they  may  be  killed  by  the  husband, 
or  sold  into  slavery;  but  I  was  told  that  Fejee  wives  are 
generally  faithful.  On  the  death  of  the  husband,  his  favorite 
wives  are  strangled  and  buried  with  him  in  a  common  grave.* 

When  a  member  of  a  family  is  dangerously  ill,  one  or  more 
of  the  other  members  cut  off  his  little  finger  as  a  sacrifice  to 
the  gods  for  his  recovery ;  if  the  sick  person  is  afflicted  with  a 
lingering  disease,  his  relatives  kill  him,  that  he  may  escape  all 

*  We  learn  that  among  the  Fejee  Islanders,  the  chiefs  have  from  twenty  to  a  hundred 
wives,  according  to  their  rank,  and  at  the  interment  of  a  principal  chief,  the  body  is 
laid  in  state  upon  a  spacious  lawn  in  the  presence  of  an  immense  concourse  of  specta- 
tors. The  principal  wife,  after  the  utmost  ingenuity  of  the  natives  has  been  exercised 
in  adorning  her  person,  then  walks  out,  and  takes  her  seat  near  the  body  of  her  hus- 
band, when  a  rope  is  passed  round  her  neck,  which  eight  or  ten  powerful  men  pull 
with  all  their  strength,  until  she  is  strangled  and  dies.  Her  body  is  then  laid  by  that 
of  the  chief  This  done,  a  second  wife  comes  out  and  seats  herself  in  the  same  i)lace. 
The  process  is  repeated,  and  she  also  dies.  A  third  and  a  fourth  become  voluntary 
sacrifices  in  the  same  manner,  and  all  of  them  are  then  interred  in  a  common  grave — 
one  above,  one  below,  and  one  on  either  side  of  ihe  husband.  The  reasons  assigned 
for  this  are,  that  the  spirit  of  the  chief  may  not  be  lonely  in  its  passage  to  the  invisible 
world,  and  that  by  such  an  offering,  its  happiness  may  be  at  once  secured. 

Misat'oiiary  Enterpi-ises  in  the  South  Sea  Islands. 


FEJEE    GROUP.  179 


further  misery.  The  little  finger  is  also  often  cut  off  on  the 
death  of  a  great  chief.  The  usual  symbol  of  mourning  for  men 
is  short  hair  or  beard — they  seldom  cut  both.  The  women  burn 
themselves  to  blisters  on  the  neck  and  breast ;  this  is  done 
by  holding  a  piece  of  ignited  tapa  over  the  part  to  be  burned. 
Funerals  among  the  higher  classes  are  invariably  followed  by 
feasts  and  ava-drinking. 

The  government  is  decidedly  despotic.  The  will  of  the 
chief  is  the  law,  and  instant  death  would  be  dealt  out  to  any 
one  found  opposing  it.  The  common  people  are  looked  upon 
as  slaves,  and  may  be  sold  and  destroyed  by  their  masters 
without  remonstrance  or  appeal.  The  victims  offered  as  sacri- 
fices to  the  gods  are  generally  selected  from  this  class.  They 
are  also  slaughtered  in  great  numbers  when  a  great  chief  dies, 
in  respect  to  him. 

Their  religious  creed*  is  in  substance  as  follows : — That 
there  is  one  Great  Spirit  who  sees  and  knows  all  things,  and 
who  has  the  power  of  dispensing  good  and  evil  to  mankind, 
according  to  their  merits ;  that  there  are  many  other  spirits 
besides  who  have  the  same  power,  but  not  in  so  great  a 
degree ;  that  dogs,  cats,  guns,  stones,  trees,  canoes,  rivers — 
in  fact,  everything — has  a  soul  as  well  as  man  ;  that  certain 
persons  are  inspired ;  that  there  are  no  future  rewards  and 
punishments,  but  that  punishment  for  crime  will  be  received 
in  this  world  only,  and  the  future  is  one  of  perfect  and  eternal 
happiness.  They  also  firmly  believe  that  omens  are  indica- 
tions from  the  gods  themselves  to  man,  and  spells  and  charms 
are  effective  means  of  getting  the  gods  to  accord  to  the  wishes 
of  the  maledictor.  The  priests  are  called  "  Ambatis,"  and 
exercise  great  influence  over  the  lower  classes.     They  are 

♦  There  are  missionaries  residing  at  Rewa  and  Somu  Tornou,  but  as  yet  they  have 
made  no  converts. 


180  FEJEE    GROUP. 


generally  companions  of  the  chiefs,  and  are  present  at  all  the 
feasts  and  ava-drinking.  One  of  the  principal  duties  of  a 
priest  is  to  perform  the  marriage  ceremony. 

Their  account  of  the  origin  of  the  races  is  this  : — All  man- 
kind, say  they,  sprung  from  one  father  and  mother.  The 
Fejee  was  first  born,  but  acted  wickedly,  and  was  black  ;  the 
Tonga  was  next  born — he  acted  better  than  the  Fejee — was 
whiter,  and  had  some  clothes  given  him  ;  white  man  came 
last — ^he  behaved  well — was  liked  by  the  Great  Spirit,  who 
made  him  white  like  himself,  and  gave  him  clothes  and  every- 
thing he  could  desire. 

During  our  stay  at  Ovalaou,  T  witnessed  the  performance  of 
two  dances.  On  both  occasions  the  men  and  women  _  danced 
together.  They  kept  time  to  a  monotonous  chant,  in  which 
they  all  occasionally  joined ;  their  motions  were  stiff*  and  in- 
elegant. Both  boys  and  girls  are  instructed  in  the  dance  by 
masters  and  mistresses. 

Their  knowledge  of  medicine  is  limited  to  a  few  plants  and 
the  bark  of  two  or  three  kinds  of  trees.  In  surgery  they  are 
more  skillful.  The  most  common  surgical  operation  among 
them  is  that  of  blood-letting,  and  is  performed  by  making  a 
small  incision  with  a  shell  or  a  knife  in  various  parts  of  the 
body  for  the  relief  of  pain,  inflamed  tumors,  &c.,  &c.  By 
the  same  means  they  open  abscesses  and  ulcers.  They  also 
cut  off  their  toes  -to  cure  sores  in  the  legs,  elephantiasis,  and 
leprosy.  In  cases  of  hard  tumors,  they  apply  hot  bread-fruit, 
so  as  to  produce  a  blister,  and  ultimately  a  purelent  surface. 
In  cases  of  sprains  they  rub  the  part  afflicted  with  the  dry 
hand,  or  with  a  mixture  of  oil  and  water.  Of  gun-shot  wounds 
they  lay  the  wound  open  that  they  may  be  able  to  extract  the 
ball,  should  it  still  remain.  Midwifery  is  a  distinct  profession, 
exercised  by  females  only,  and  they  are  said  to  be  very  skiHiui. 


FEJEE    GROUP.  181 


Their  arms  consist  of  clubs,  spears,  bows  and  arrows. 
There  are  two  kinds  of  clubs — one  kind  about  four  feet  long, 
and  five  or  six  inches  in  circumference;  the  other  about 
eighteen  inches  long,  and  fashioned  like  a  drum-stick.  The 
latter  sort  are  intended  for  throwing,  and  are  said  to  be  a  very 
formidable  weapon.  Every  man  is  furnished  with  two  of 
these  when  he  goes  into  battle ;  some  of  them  are  beautifully 
carved. 

Their  manufactures  are  mats,  tapa,  baskets,  &c.  This  is 
exclusively  the  work  of  women.  The  tapa  is  made,  as  at  the 
other  islands,  from  the  Chinese  mulberry,  and  by  a  similar 
process.  They  make  some  that  is  very  neatly  and  tastefully 
printed.  On  several  of  the  islands  they  also  manufacture  large 
quantities  of  pottery ;  they  make  it  into  pots,  jugs  and  lamps, 
and  it  appears  to  be  of  as  good  quality  as  that  which  is  manufac- 
tured for  common  use  at  home.  The  men  have  the  reputation 
of  being  the  best  native  mechanics  in  the  South  Seas.  Their 
canoes  are  constructed  with  much  judgment  and  ingenuity ;  I 
saw  some  that  were  upwards  of  one  hundred  feet  in  length,  and 
proportionally  wide.  The  double-canoes  are  capable  of  carry- 
ing from  one  hundred  to  two  hundred  men  each. 

As  they  are  unacquainted  with  the  use  of  money,  they 
barter  commodities  chiefly  for  muskets,  powder,  whales'  teeth, 
cotton  cloths,  hatchets,  knives,  scissors,  razors,  glass  bottles, 
and  red  paint.  Among  themselves,  mats  and  tapa-cloth  form 
the  principal  currency  and  personal  property.  They  wear  the 
whales'  teeth  around  their  necks  as  ornaments,  which  are 
bigiily  prized. 

The  foreign  trade  with  these  islands  is  much  more  limited 
than  it  was  some  twenty  years  ago.  Sandal- wood  is  now 
exhausted,  or  only  found  in  small  quantities ;  tortoise-shell  is 
so  scarce  as  to  be  of  small  account,  and  these,  with  the  smaller 


182  FEJEE    GROUP. 


articles,  such  as  clubs,  spears,  mats,  and  shells,  are  mostly 
picked  up  by  the  white  residents  on  speculation  and  sent  to 
Sydney,  New  South  Wales,  from  whence  they  are  forwarded 
to  England,  and  sold  as  native  curiosities.  The  merchant- 
traders,  therefore,  are  confined  chiefly  to  the  article  of  bech- 
de-mar,  which  is  still  found  in  considerable  quantities,  and  is 
in  great  demand  in  the  China  market. 

The  general  character  of  the  Fejee  Islanders  may  be 
gathered  from  the  preceding  remarks.  The  dark  side  of  the 
picture  presents  them  as  unprincipled,  cruel,  rapacious,  defi- 
cient in  courage  as  well  as  in  human  feelings,  and  indiflferent  to 
the  commission  of  crime.  This  melancholy  catalogue  of  vices 
arises  from  the  disadvantages  in  point  of  religion,  of  govern- 
ment, and  the  general  structure  of  society,  under  which  they 
live.  There  is  no  doubt  that  under  a  better  form  of  govern- 
ment they  would  become  quite  a  different  people. 

The  resident  missionaries  represent  them  as  being,  in  point 
of  natural  abilities,  superior  to  any  of  the  other  Polynesians. 


SANDWICH    ISLANDS.  183 


CHAPTER  XV. 


SANDWICH     ISLANDI 


September  30th.  About  noon  this  day,  we  made  the 
Island  of  Oahoo ;  and  by  5  P.  M.,  came-to  in  the  roads  off 
of  the  town  of  Honolulu.  Soon  after,  we  communicated  with 
the  shore,  and  had  the  satisfaction  of  receiving  letters  from 
our  friends  at  home. 

The  appearance  of  Oahoo,  when  viewed  from  the  roads,  is 
by  no  means  inviting.  The  plain  on  which  the  town  stands  is 
almost  treeless,  while  the  mountains  to  the  eastward  are  a  mass 
of  naked  rock.  These  mountains  are  composed  of  basalt  and 
tufa  ;  and,  doubtless,  what  is  termed  by  the  foreign  residents 
the  "  Devil's  Punch  Bowl,"  was  once  a  volcanic  crater,  vomit- 
ing forth  the  strong  entrails  of  the  nether  world. 

Early  in  the  following  morning,  we  hove-up  the  anchor,  and 
towed  the  ship  to  a  berth  in  the  harbor,  where  we  found  about 
a  dozen  other  vessels,  mostly  American,  and  engaged  in  the 
whale-fishery.  The  channel  is  narrow  and  tortuous,  but  the 
harbor  is  perfectly  secure  and  convenient.  Vessels  of  four 
to  five  hundred  tons  can  lay  along-side  any  of  the  wharves, 
and  discharge  or  receive  their  cargoes.  It  is  defended  by  a 
fort  mounting  some  twenty  guns. 

At  10  A.  M.,  our  Consul,  P.  A.  Brinsmade,  Esq.,  visited 

'  These  islands  were  discovered  by  the  celebrated  Captain  Cook,  who  named  them 
after  Lord  Sandwich,  the  then  Lord  of  the  Admiralty.  There  are  nine  in  number, 
and  bear  the  following  native  names  :— Hawaii,  Oahoo,  Maui,  Kauai,  Molokai,  Lanai, 
Hamakua,  Kakoolawe,  and  Niihau. 


184  SANDAVICH    ISLANDS. 


the  ship,  and  in  the  course  of  the  afternoon,  many  of  the 
foreign  residents  ;  and  among  others  the  English  and  French 
Consuls. 

October  2d.  To-day  I  visited  the  town.  It  is  regularly 
laid  out  in  streets,  and  contains  many  houses  built  in  the 
European  style.  It  also  contains  several  churches  and  two 
hotels.  The  natives'  houses  are  well  adapted  to  the  chmate, 
and  are  pleasant,  convenient  residences — some  cover  a  great 
extent  of  ground  ;  there  is  a  small  yard  before  each,  inclosed 
by  a  wall  built  of  adobes.  The  houses  belonging  to  the  better 
classes  have  their  floors  covered  with  mats,  and  are  furnished 
with  chairs,  beds  and  curtains. 

The  king's  palace  stands  facing  the  harbor,  and  has  an  air 
of  snugness  and  comfort  rather  than  elegance.  It  is  a  single- 
story  building,  constructed  of  wood,  and  painted  white.  Seve- 
ral of  the  stores  owned  by  foreign  residents  are  large  and 
appeared  to  be  doing  good  business ;  indeed,  Honolulu  is  the 
New  York  of  the  group.  The  merchants  of  the  other  islands 
come  here  to  purchase  their  goods.  The  population  is  esti- 
mated at  7,000. 

The  natives  have  healthy,  athletic  forms,  and  in  complexion 
are  a  shade  darker  than  the  Tahitians.  They  have  made 
much  greater  progress  in  civilization  than  any  of  the  Poly- 
nesian nations.  They  are  well  acquainted  with  weights  and 
measures,  and  the  value  which  all  articles  ought  to  bear  in 
exchange  with  each  other.  Their  currency  is  gold  and  silver. 
The  chiefs  are  well  clothed  in  the  European  style ;  but  the 
masses  are  not  more  than  half-dressed,  and  some  still  wear 
nothing  but  the  maro.  The  apparel  of  the  women  consists  of 
a  long  loose-gown,  made  of  calico,  and  a  fancy-colored  silk 
handkerchief,  thrown  over  the  neck  and  shoulders.  Most  of 
the  old  people  of  both  sexes  have  from  one  to  three  of  their 


SANDWICH    ISLANDS.  185 

front  teeth  knocked  out.  This  seems  to  have  been  an  old 
religious  custom,  and  was  considered  as  a  propitiatory  sacrifice 
to  the  gods,  to  avert  their  anger. 

Of  the  white  residents  the  Americans  are  the  most  nume- 
rous. Most  of  the  foreign  trade  is  in  their  hands,  and  several 
are  reputed  to  be  quite  wealthy.  The  town  bears  many  evi- 
dences of  their  enterprise.  Their  dwelling-houses  and  stores 
are  the  largest  and  handsomest  in  the  place.  They  have  also 
a  neat  chapel  of  their  own,  and  support  a  weekly  newspaper. 

There  is  a  regular  market  here,  and  all  kinds  of  provisions 
can  be  had  as  cheap  as  we  get  them  at  home.  The  beef 
comes  chiefly  from  the  Island  of  Hawaii,  and  is  fat  and  well- 
flavored.  Oranges,  pine-apples,  plaintains  and  bananas  are 
also  abundant,  and  of  an  excellent  quality. 

When  it  became  so  dark  that  I  could  no  longer  see  the  town 
to  advantage,  I  repaired  to  the  principal  hotel,  where  I  got  a 
very  good  supper.  There  is  a  billiard-table  connected  with  this 
establishment,  which  I  found  well  patronized  by  the  foreign 
residents  and  chiefs  ;  several  of  the  latter  were  noble-looking 
men,  and  spoke  very  good  English. 

On  the  20th,  two  natives  were  hung  at  the  fort,  in  the  pre- 
sence of  a  great  concourse  of  people,  for  poisoning  a  woman, 
wife  to  one  of  them.  Their  trial  took  place  about  a  fortnight 
before,  and  was  conducted,  we  were  told,  in  a  very  impartial 
and  dignified  manner.  The  governor  was  the  presiding  judge, 
and  the  king  and  high  chiefs  were  present.  The  accused  were 
allowed  to  challenge  a  jury,  which  consisted  of  twelve  of  the 
most  intelligent  and  respectable  natives.  They  were  also 
allowed  to  choose  counsel.  One  of  the  criminals  was  a  chief 
of  high  rank. 

October  27th.  This  morning  I  went  to  witness  an  exami- 
nation of  the  native  children.     I  found  them  assembled  at  the 


186  SANDWICH    ISLANDS. 

Rev.  Mr.  Bingham's  church,  to  the  number  of  700.  The 
examination  lasted  several  hours,  the  exercises  being  spelling, 
reading,  writing,  arithmetic,  singing,  grammar  and  geography ; 
and  it  is  certainly  speaking  moderately  to  say,  the  evidences 
of  improvement  exhibited  on  the  occasion  were  very  creditable 
to  both  teachers  and  pupils.  The  Governor,  and  Captains 
Wilkes  and  Hudson  made  short  addresses,  which  were  listened 
to  with  much  attention.  The  scholars  were  then  marched 
through  the  town  to  the  Rev.  Mr.  Smith's  church,  each  school 
bearing  a  banner,  and  the  whole  procession  headed  by  the 
young  chiefs. 

It  was  upon  the  whole  one  of  the  most  interesting  spectacles 
I  have  witnessed  for  a  long  time,  and  spoke  well  for  the  mis- 
sionaries. Besides  the  school  just  mentioned,  there  are  three 
others  in  Honolulu — one  of  which  is  under  the  superintendence 
of  the  Catholic  bishop.*  It  is  the  opinion  of  the  missionaries, 
and  other  foreign  residents,  that  the  native  children  are  not 
inferior  in  intellect,  or  in  other  respects,  to  white  children 
having  equal  advantages. 

October  28th.  Having  visited  every  object  worthy  of  notice 
in  the  town  of  Honolulu,  I  determined  to-day  to  ride  out  to  the 
Pali.  Strangers  visiting  Oahoo,  ought  by  all  means  to  take 
this  drive — it  is  impossible  to  conceive  a  more  interesting  one. 
After  proceeding  about  two  miles  from  the  principal  hotel 
you  enter  a  valley,  through  the  centre  of  which  winds  a  beauti- 
ful stream,  whose  banks  are  lined  with  taro  plantations, 
meadows  and  gardens,  and  dotted  with  cottages,  while  the 
sides  on  either  hand  are  bounded  with  a  range  of  hills,  covered 
to  their  summits  with  verdure.  The  eye  cannot  turn  but  to 
banquet  on  some  lovely  or  romantic  object.     Every  cottage  is 

♦  Formerly  the  Protestant  was  the  only  religion  tolerated  by  the  government,  but 
now  all  creeds  are  tolerated,  and  the  Catholics  have  numerous  converts  in  Honolulu 


SANDWICH    ISLANDS.  187 

a  picture,  and  the  industry  and  happiness  of  man  seems  tc  co- 
operate with  the  beneficence  of  the  soil  and  climate.  In  no 
part  of  the  United  States  have  I  seen  more  agricultural 
neatness  and  industry.  All  the  stone  fences,  dividing  one 
field  from  another,  are  kept  in  the  highest  order.  As  you  ad- 
vance you  feel  the  air  becoming  more  bracing,  for  the  valley 
rises  with  a  gradual  ascent  from  the  sea  to  the  Pali.  The 
bottom  of  the  valley  is  more  undulating,  the  hills  grow  higher 
and  steeper,  and  the  vegetation  more  varied.  After  a  ride 
of  about  four  miles  through  such  country  as  has  just  been 
described,  you  enter  a  grove  of  hibiscus  and  other  tropical 
trees.  In  a  few  minutes  you  come  again  into  open  space,  and 
after  turning  round  a  pile  of  rocks  the  Pali  suddenly  bursts 
upon  jovf  view,  filling  you  with  wonder  and  astonishment. 
On  either  hand  immense  masses  of  volcanic  rock  rise  to  the 
perpendicular  height  of  between  six  and  seven  hundred  feet ; 
while  looking  down  beneath  the  fearful  precipice,  you  behold 
in  one  view  plantations,  trees,  villages,  meadows  filled  with 
cattle  grazing,  the  town  of  Honolulu,  with  its  harbor  and 
shipping,  and  the  blue  bosom  of  the  Pacific.  Painters,  poets, 
and  romance- writers  would  find  here  ample  materials  for  con- 
templation and  study.  My  guide,  who  was  an  elderly  man, 
pointed  out  the  place  where  two  stone  idols  stood,  before  the 
coming  of  the  missionaries  to  the  islands,  to  which,  he  said, 
every  native  who  intended  to  descend  the  precipice  made  an 
offering  of  tapa  and  flowers,  in  order  to  render  them  propitious 
to  his  descent.  He  also  showed  me  the  identical  spot  where 
the  last  king  of  Oahoo  and  his  warriors  were  driven  down 
headlong  and  dashed  to  pieces,  by  Tamahamaha  I.,*  and  his 

♦  In  viewing  Tamahamaha  I.,  says  Mr.  Turnbull,  my  imagination  suggested  to 
me,  that  I  beheld  in  its  first  progress  one  of  those  extraordinary  natures  which,  tin- 
der other  circumstances  of  fortune  and  situation,  would  have  ripened  into  the  future 


188  SANDWICH    ISLANDS. 


victorious  army.  The  precipice  is  at  least  three  times  the 
height  of  Dover  cliffs,  and  it  is  really  fearful  and  dizzy  to  cast 
one's  eyes  over  the  horrid  boundaries, — 

.  **  The  murmuring  surge 
That  6n  the  unnumbered  idle  pebbles  chafe, 
Can  scarce  be  heard  so  high." 

On  my  way  back  I  met  great  numbers  of  native  women,  who 
were  riding  out  on  horseback  for  pleasure.  They  were  evi- 
dently in  high  spirits,  for  such  chattering  and  giggling  I  have 
seldom  heard.  They  fairly  made  the  hills  and  valleys  ring 
again.  They  also  appeared  to  be  very  fond  of  showing  off  their 
horsemanship,  and  the  mettle  of  their  steeds.  Running  and 
leaping  over  every  fence  and  wall  that  could  be  seen  on  their 
path  was  the  order  of  the  day.  Indeed,  horse-riding*  is  a 
favorite  amusement  of  the  Honoluluians,  and  there  is  not  a 
Saturday  afternoon  in  the  year  which  is  not  devoted  to  it,  and 
the  more  break-neck  and  wild  the  animal  is  the  better. 

On  entering  the  town  my  horse  took  fright  at  the  sight 
of  a  group  of  urchins  who  were  playing  in  the  street,  and,  after 
running  about  half  a  mile,  threw  me,  and  bruised  my  side  to 
such  a  degree  that  I  was  immediately  obliged  to  go  on  board 
the  ship,  and  have  it  attended  to.     But  for  this  mishap  T 

hero,  and  caused  the  world  to  resound  with  his  feats  of  enterprise.  What  other  was 
Philip  of  Macedon,  as  pictured  by  the  Grecian  historians,  a  man  who  overcame  every 
disadvantage,  and  extended  the  narrow  sovereignty  of  Macedon  into  the  universal 
monarchy  of  Greece,  and  under  his  son,  of  the  then  known  world.  He  is  both  a 
warrior  and  a  statesman,  and  his  subjects  have  already  made  considerable  progress 
in  civilization,  but  are  held  in  the  most  abject  submission,  as  Tamahamaha  is  in- 
flexible in  punishing  all  offences  which  seem  to  counteract  his  authority.  His  palace 
is  built  alter  the  European  style,  of  brick  and  glazed  windows,  and  defended  by  a 
battery  of  ten  guns.  He  has  European  and  American  artificers  about  him  of  almost 
every  description.  Indeed,  his  own  subjects,  from  their  intercourse  with  Europeans, 
have  acquired  a  great  knowledge  of  several  of  the  mechanical  arts,  and  have  thus 
enabled  him  to  increase  his  navy — a  favorite  object  with  him. 
*  The  females  ride  like  the  men. 


SANDWICH    ISLANDS.  189 

should  be  tempted  to  look  upon  this  day  as  one  of  the  happiest 
I  have  enjoyed  during  my  earthly  pilgrimage. 

On  the  2d  of  December  the  "  Peacock ''  and  ''  Flying 
Fish^'  sailed  for  King's  Mill  Group,  thence  to  Columbia  River. 

December  4th.  At  1.40  P.  M.  we  took  our  departure  for 
Hawaii — P.  A.  Brinsmade,  Esq.,  and  Dr.  Judd,  physician  to 
the  mission,  taking  passage  with  us. 

During  our  stay  at  Oahoo,  much  was  accomplished  in  the 
way  of  science.  The  artists  of  the  expedition  also  were  con- 
tinually employed,  and  took  many  views  of  scenery,  and  por- 
traits of  the  chiefs  and  common  people.  The  harbor  of  Pearl 
River,  was,  for  the  first  time,  accurately  surveyed,  and  found 
to  be  commodious  and  convenient  for  shipping,  with  twenty- 
three  feet  of  water  over  the  bar,  off  its  entrance.  The  road- 
stead and  harbor  of  Hanolulu  were  also  thoroughly  sounded 
out.  The  Salt  Lake  of  Ewa*  which  heretofore  was  supposed 
to  be  connected  with  the  sea,  and  to  be  influenced  by  the  tides, 
was  examined,  and  the  salt  was  found  to  be  a  mineral  produc- 
tion ;  salt  was  found  nearly  two  hundred  feet  above  the  sur- 
face of  the  lake.  This  examination  also  settled  the  question 
with  regard  to  its  depth.  Instead  of  being  fathomless,  its 
depth  was  no  where  found  to  be  more  than  two  feet. 

Meteorological  and  magnetical  observations  were  daily 
taken,  both  on  board  the  ship  and  at  the  observatory,  in  short, 
nothing  was  neglected  that  could  add  to  the  natural  history  of 
the  island. 

December  6th.  At  an  early  hour  this  morning  we  came 
in    sight   of   the    mountains   of    Hawaii.      Their    immense 

♦  This  is  a  small  circular  lake  situated  about  seven  miles  to  the  west  of  Honolulu, 
so  impregnated jwith  salt,  that  between  five  and  six  hundred  barrels  of  fine  hard  chrys- 
talized  salt  are  taken  out  annually.  It  belongs  to  the  king,  and  is  a  source  of  consid- 
erable revenue — large  quantities  of  the  article  being  sold  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company, 
an#.  used  for  curing  salmon  and  hides. 


190  SANDWICH    ISLANDS. 


height  excited  our  astonishment  and  wonder ;  the  summits 
rose  far  above  the  highest  clouds,  and  for  several  thousand 
feet  down  were  covered  with  snow,  which,  when  the  sun  rose, 
glistened  and  sparkled  with  a  degree  of  brilliancy  that  almost 
blinded  the  beholder.  This  mighty  scene  recalled  the  follow- 
ing effusion  to  which  Moore  was  excited  on  a  similar  occasion : 

**  No,  never  shall  I  lose  the  trace 
Of  what  I've  felt  in  this  bright  place ; 
And  should  my  spirit's  hope  grow  weak, 
Should  I,  0  God  !  e'er  doubt  thy  power, 
This  mighty  scene  again  I'll  seek, 
At  this  same  calm  and  glooming  hour. 
And  here  at  the  sublimest  shrine 
That  nature  ever  reared  to  thee, 
Ke-kindle  all  that  hope  divine 
And  feel  my  immortality  !" 

At  sunset  the  natives*  assembled  on  the  forecastle,  and  at 
our  request  gave  us  a  specimen  of  their  wrestHng.  Forming 
a  ring,  one  of  them  stepped  in  the  centre  with  his  arms  ex- 
tended ;  he  was  immediately  approached  by  another  from  the 
opposite  side,  not  in  the  usual  step,  but  by  crossing  the  legs 
alternately;  he  then  brought  both  feet  together,  and  com- 
menced making  a  variety  of  motions  with  his  hands.  After 
this,  which  lasted  about  five  minutes,  each  seized  the  other  by 
the  wrist  and  neck,  and  by  a  variety  of  movements  made  by 
the  arms  and  feet,  continued  to  struggle  until  one  of  the 
parties  was  thrown.     ' 

During  the  night,  many  meteors  were  observed.  It  is 
impossible  for  -language  to  paint  the  glories  of  the  firmament 
in  clear  moonlight  nights  among  these  islands.  They  surpass 
any  I  have  ever  witnessed  in  other  parts  of  the  globe. 

♦While  at  Oahoo,  numbers  of  these  people  were  shipped  on  board  the  different 
vessels  of  the  squadron^  for  the  purpose  of  employing  thenvin  the  boats. 


SANDWICH    ISLANDS.  191 

December  9th.  At  3.30  P.  M.,  we  reached  the  harbor  of 
Waiakea,  or  Byron's  Bay,  and  anchored  in  three  and  a  half 
fathoms  of  water.  The  entrance  into  this  bay  is  so  easy  that 
a  pilot  is  altogether  unnecessary,  for  you  have  only  to  keep 
the  western  shore  aboard  until  the  reef,  which  makes  off  the 
mouth  of  the  bay,  is  passed,  and  then  haul  up  for  Cocoa-nut 
Island,  off  which  is  the  best  holding-ground. 

We  had  no  sooner  let-go  the  anchor,  than  the  king's  agent 
came  on  board  to  welcome  us  to  the  island,  and  to  make  Cap- 
tain Wilkes  a  present  of  some  mullet,  which  had  just  been 
caught  in  the  king's  fish-pond.*  He  was  neatly  and  respect- 
ably dressed  in  the  European  style,  and  from  having  been 
brought  up  in  Mr.  Bingham's  family  spoke  our  language  per- 
fectly well. 

♦  The  Hawaiians  take  great  pains  to  have  fine  fish.  They  take  them  from  the  sea 
when  very  small,  and  put  them  into  ponds  of  salt  water,  where  they  remain  several 
months  ;  thence  they  are  carried  into  brackish  water,  and  finally  are  introduced  into 
ponds  of  fresh  water,  where  they  are  carefully  attended. 


192  SANDWICH    ISLANDS. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

HAWAII. 

The  aspect  of  this  part  of  the  island  of  Hawaii  is  one  of 
surpassing  beauty.  The  country  gradually  declines  from  the 
base  of  the  mountain  Mouna  Loa,  some  thirty  miles  inland, 
to  the  coast,  where  it  boldly  and  precipitately  terminates. 
The  soil  appears  to  be  of  the  best  quality,  not  overgrown  with 
forests  and  thickets,  as  is  generally  the  case  with  those  islands 
we  have  heretofore  visited,  but  extending  out  in  a  kind  of 
meadow-patches,  enlivened  by  numerous  streams,  and  beauti- 
fully diversified  with  clusters  of  bread-fruit  trees,  so  as  to  give 
the  whole  a  picturesque  and  at  the  same  time  an  easy  culti- 
vated prospect.  In  entering  the  bay,  the  neatly-thatched  huts 
of  the  natives,  situated  among  groups  of  venerable  bread-fruit 
and  other  trees,  become  more  numerous,  and  on  arriving  at  the 
anchorage  the  scene  is  perfect ;  for  here,  in  addition  to  the 
beauties  nature  has  so  bountifully  bestowed  on  the  surrounding 
country,  the  taste  and  art  of  advancing  civilization  can  be  seen. 

The  missionary  families  established  here  have  built  them- 
selves houses  in  the  European  style.  There  are  also  one  or 
two  stores,  a  neat  chapel,  and  a  mill  or  two  for  grinding  cane, 
owned  by  a  China  man. 

December  10th.  This  morning  we  sent  the  scientific  in- 
struments to  the  Observatory.  This  building  is  situated  on 
the  south-eastern  side  of  the  bay ;  it  is  thirty  feet  long,  by 
fifteen  wide,  and  was,  I  am  informed,  erected  expressly  for 


SANDWICH    ISLANDS.  198 

our  use  by  an  order  from  the  king.  There  were  numbers  of 
persons  still  employed  in  leveling  off  the  ground  around  it, 
and  in  platting  down  the  grass  with  which  it  is  covered. 

Dec.  11th  and  12th.  These  two  days  have  been  spent  in 
making  preparations  for  the  excursion  to  the  top  of  Mauna  Loa. 

On  the  14th,  Captain  Wilkes  and  party  left  for  Manua 
Loa.  The  expedition  set  out  from  the  Observatory,  and,  be- 
sides Captain  W.,  consisted  of  Messrs.  Budd,  Eld,  Pickering, 
Judd,  Brinsmade,  Brackenbridge,  and  Elliott,  Serg.  Stearns, 
twelve  of  the  crew,  and  one  hundred  and  fifty  natives,  or  kana- 
kas. It  was  Captain  Wilkes's  intention  to  have  started  at 
a  much  earlier  hour,  but  in  this  he  was  disappointed  by  a  cir- 
cumstance which  could  not  be  foreseen.  No  sooner  was  the 
order  to  march  given  than  thirty  of  the  natives  laid  down  their 
loads  and  declared  they  were  sick,  and  could  not  go  the 
excursion.  Others  were  engaged  to  take  their  place,  but  not 
without  much  persuasion  and  great  additional  expense.  They 
positively  refused  to  go  unless  they  received  double  the  pay 
which  had  been  offered  those  whom  they  were  to  relieve — that 
is,  eight  dollars. 

The  party  will  spend  one  night  in  the  vicinity  of  Kilauei, 
which  will  be  on  their  way.  On  reaching  the  summit  of 
Mauna  Loa,  they  will  immediately  go  on  erecting  the  tents. 
This  done,  the  natives  are  to  be  discharged,  with  orders  to  re- 
turn again  when  their  services  are  needed.  As  soon  as  the 
instruments  are  up,  Captain  Wilkes  and  Messrs.  Budd  and 
Eld  will  proceed  with  the  observations,  and  continue  them 
until  a  sufficient  number  aire  obtained  to  form  the  data  from 
which  the  proper  results  are  to  be  obtained.  Such  are  the 
objects  of  this  enterprise,  and  we  do  most  sincerely  wish  it  all 
the  success  imaginable.  No  observations,  we  believe,  have  as 
yet  been  made  by  any  one  at  so  great  an  altitude  with  instru- 


194  SANDWICH    ISLANDS. 


ments  like  those  with  which  the  party  are  provided ;  and  as 
all  of  them  would  be  highly  interesting  and  useful,  it  would 
give  us  particular  pleasure  to  have  the  honor  of  making  them 
secured  to  our  own  country. 

There  are  some,  however,  who  are  of  the  opinion  that  the 
whole  affair  will  fall  through,  from  the  fact  of  the  natives  not 
being  able  to  stand  cold,  which  is  said,  after  an  elevation  of 
ten  or  twelve  thousand  feet,  to  be  intense* 

December  15th.  To-day  I  visited  the  shore,  in  company 
with  a  brother  officer.  We  landed  on  the  western  side  of  the 
bay.  A  clump  of  cocoa-nut  trees  was  standing  within  a  few 
yards  of  the  water's  edge.  Passing  this  we  came  to  two 
avenues,  of  about  half  a  mile  in  length,  lined  on  either  side 
with  cane-plantations,  taro-patches,  and  interspersed  with 
trees  loaded  with  flowers  of  the  most  gay  and  beautiful  colors. 
One  of  the  avenues,  we  were  told,  was  entirely  the  work  of 
those  females  who  had  violated  the  seventh  commandment, 
and,  like  that  at  Tahiti,  was  distinguished  by  the  name  of 
"  Broom-rood."  After  making  a  short  call  on  one  of  the 
missionary  gentlemen,  who  resides  in  a  very  neat  and  com- 
fortable house  situated  at  the  termination  of  the  road  just 
mentioned,  we  repaired  to  Mr.  Pittman's.  This  gentleman  is 
a  native  of  Boston,  and  the  principal  merchant  in  Hilo.  While 
we  were  sitting  in  his  store,  several  natives  came  in,  and 
made  a  number  of  purchases,  which,  we  remarked,  consisted 
chiefly  of  cotton-stufis.  We  next  set  out  to  visit  a  brother- 
officer  and  messmate,  who  had  taken  up  his  residence  on  shore 
on  account  of  ill-health.  Pursuing  a  path  which  lay  through 
fields  overgrown  with  bushes,  we  soon  arrived  at  the  banks 
of  Waikea.  This  river  rises  among  the  mountains  in  the  in- 
terior, and  previous  to  the  introduction  of  Christianity  was 
regarded  by  the  natives  as  an  object  of  great  veneration. 


SANDWICH    ISLANDS.  196 

The  remains  of  many  of  the  temples  that  were  dedicated  to 
its  god  are  still  to  be  seen  on  its  banks.  The  bed  over  which 
it  flows  is  composed  of  black  volcanic  rock,  and  in  some  places 
is  full  of  fissures  and  chasms.  A  little  to  the  right  of  the 
spot  where  we  struck  it,  there  are  two  very  beautiful  cascades. 
The  Waikea  was  also  distinguished  in  olden  times  for  the  great 
number  of  fairs  that  were  held  on  its  banks.  We  had  scarcely 
crossed  this  beautiful  stream  when  we  reached  the  house  which 
our  friend  occupied.  It  is  the  property  of  Mr.  Pittman's  son, 
and,  besides  being  shaded  by  magnificent  trees,  it  commands  a 
noble  view  of  the  harbor.  After  spending  a  few  hours  with  our 
friend,  we  set  out  to  return  on  board.  Many  native  houses  were 
scattered  along  our  path,  some  of  which  we  entered.  They 
were  not  so  large  nor  so  cleanly  as  those  we  had  seen  at  Oahoo. 

We  reached  the  ship  just  as  the  eight  o'clock  gun  was  fired. 

December  17th.  During  these  twenty-four  hours  the  air 
has  been  uncommonly  keen,  on  account  of  the  wind  blowing 
from  the  westward.  This  wind  blows  down  the  mountains, 
and  is  more  dreaded  by  the  natives  than  any  other.  Both 
day  and  night,  during  its  continuance,  they  keep  large  fires 
burning  in  their  houses,  and  gather  round  them  as  closely  as 
they  can.  It  is,  in  fact,  to  them,  what  the  northeast  wind  is 
to  us  in  the  winter  season. 

December  18th.  Several  letters  have  been  received  to-day 
from  the  Mouna  Loa  party,  and  among  others,  one  from  Cap- 
tain Wilkes,  addressed  to  the  first  Lieutenant,  in  which,  he 
directs  that  fifty  of  the  crew  should  be  sent  to  him.  One  of  the 
letters  stated  that  about  thirty  of  the  natives  had  given  out. 

The  swell  is  running  very  heavy.  We  have  stood  it  out,  how- 
ever, thus  far,  with  only  one  anchor  and  eighty  fathoms  cable. 

December  19th,  At  early  dawn,  Lieut.  Alden  and  Mr.  San- 
ford  left  here  with  the  fifty  men  sent  for  by  Captain  Wilkes. 


196  SANDWICH    ISLANDS. 


It  is  justice  due  to  those  men  to  state,  that  not  one  of  them 
waited  to  be  ordered ;  they  came  forward  and  volunteered 
their  services  the  moment  they  learned  they  were  needed. 
During  the  night  the  reflection  from  the  Volcano  Kilauea, 
was  uncommonly  vivid,  insomuch  that  we  concluded  some 
new  eruption  had  taken  place. 

December  21st.  In  the  afternoon  we  hauled  the  seine,  and 
in  two  hauls  captured  fish  enough  to  supply  every  mess  in  the 
ship  for  several  days  to  come.  Both  hauls  were  made  near 
the  beach,  and  the  last  one  in  the  presence  of  a  great  number 
of  the  Kanakas,  and  it  was  amusing  to  see  the  astonishment 
which  they  expressed. 

They  have  seines  of  their  own,  but  they  are  of  such  misera- 
ble construction  as  to  be  of  very  little  use.  There  are  many 
varieties  of  fish  found  in  the  bays  of  Hawaii ;  but  the  mullet 
is  considered  superior  to  all  others  in  point  of  flavor. 

December  22d.  More  letters  have  been  received  from  the 
Mauna  Loa  party,  and  they  all  state,  that  the  natives  are 
giving  out  hourly ;  one  cause  of  complaint  is,  that  the  loads 
which  they  are  required  to  carry,  are  too  heavy,  which,  no 
doubt,  is  too  true ;  we  should  think  that  fifty  pounds  was 
altogether  too  much  for  any  one  man  to  carry,  especially  on 
so  long  a  journey,  and  one  beset  with  so  many  natural  difficul- 
ties. It  would  have  been  better,  we  believe,  to  have  had  the 
loads  lighter,  and  employed  more  people. 

December  23d.  To-day  the  Headman  of  Hilo,  and  family, 
and  the  King's  agent  and  his  lady,  dined  in  the  ward-room. 
The  former  is  a  large  man  with  European  features  and  of  dig- 
nified manners.  He  also  bears  the  reputation  of  being  a  man 
of  great  energy  of  character.  The  females  were  neatly  dressed 
after  the  European  fashion,  and,  considering  their  oppor- 
tunities, conducted  vl^emselves  remarkably  well. 


..fi>'''- 


SANDWICH    ISLANDS.  199 

In  the  evening,  Mr.  Williamson,  gunner,  reported  that  he 
saw  on  shore,  Mr.  Sanford  and  a  man  named  McDonald,  who 
was  so  lame  as  scarce  to  be  able  to  walk. 

December  24th.  This  morning  Mr.  Sanford  and  McDonald 
came  on  board.  Mr.  Sanford  stated  that  he  was  obliged  to 
return  on  account  of  his  suffering  from  the  asthma,  after  lea>' 
ing  the  volcano.  In  the  evening  Mr.  Elliott  arrived  with 
orders  to  the  first  Lieutenant,  from  Captain  Wilkes,  to  keep 
up  a  constant  communication  between  the  ship  and  the  moun- 
tain. Mr.  Elliott  reports  that  he  left  the  party  about  fifteen 
miles,  or  two  days'  walk,  from  the  top  of  the  mountain ; 
that  the  ascent  thus  far  had  been  difficult  and  painful,  and 
that  one  of  the  crew  named  Longly  (an  excellent  man)  was 
found  missing.  He  also  tells  us  that  they  had  suffered  a 
great  deal  from  cold,  and  want  of  provisions  and  water  ;  the 
latter  article  being  so  scarce,  that  upwards  of  two  dollars  had 
been  paid  for  a  gallon  of  it. 

In  the  course  of  the  afternoon,  two  white  men  came  on 
board  to  say  to  the  Purser,  that  they  had  been  dispatched  by 
Captain  Wilkes  to  tell  him  to  send  two  hundred  natives  up  the 
mountain  with  wood.  These  men  report  that  Captain  Wilkes, 
and  about  half  a  dozen  others  had  reached  the  summit. 

December  26th.  At  an  early  hour,  one  hundred  and  thirty 
natives  left  town  with  wood  and  water,  for  the  use  of  the 
party  on  Mauna  Loa.  The  Headman  of  Hilo  went  with 
them,  and  will  hereafter  Stay  at  what  is  termed  the  half-way 
house,  and  superintend  the  natives,  who  are  to  be  constantly 
kept  carrying  wood  and  water  up  to  Mr.  Alden's  tent. 

December  27th.  We  are  gratified  to  learn  that  Longly 
has  been  found.  The  poor  fellow  was  laying  under  a  rock 
speechless,  and  already  in  a  state  of  delirium  preceding  a  final 
dissolution  ;  but  he  is  now  doing  well. 


200  VISIT    TO    THE    GREAT    VOLCANO. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

VISIT    TO    THE     GREAT    VOLCANO ARRIVAL     AT     MAUI — ^-DE- 
SCRIPTION   OF    LAHAINA VISIT    FROM   THE    KING. 

On  the  morning  of  the  24th  of  January,  Messrs.  M , 

H 5  and  myself,  apphed  for  permission  to  visit  Mount 

Kilauea.  As  the  permission  was  granted,  we  set  about  making 
the  necessary  arrangements  for  the  tour.  We  directed  our 
steward  to  put  up  provisions  for  six  days,  and  in  the  afternoon 
went  on  shore,  and  engaged  horses  from  the  Headman  of  Hilo 
to  take  us  up  to  the  crater.  We  also  engaged  a  white  man, 
named  Smith,  to  act  as  guide  to  the  party,  and  several  natives, 
who  were  to  carry  our  baggage. 

We  told  Smith  we  should  be  ready  to  set  out  the  next  day, 
and  should  expect  him  and  the  natives  to  meet  us  at  an  early 
hour  at  the  Observatory,  that  being  the  starting-point.  Ac- 
cordingly, the  following  morning,  we  repaired  to  the  Observa- 
tory, where  we  found  Smith  and  the  natives ;  and  by  six 
o'clock,  all  preparations  being  made,  we  took  our  departure. 
Pursuing  a  westerly  course,  we  soon  came  to  the  River  Wikuea, 
which  we  crossed  near  the  Headman's  house.  In  a  few 
minutes  after,  we  reached  the  road  which  leads  to  the  volcano. 
We  had  only  traveled  a  short  distance  on  this  road,  when  we 
entered  a  track  of  country  which  was  entirely  covered  with 
fern,  and  but  thinly  inhabited.  It  was  here  that  I  took  the 
resolution  to  return  my  horse  to  the  Headman  and  take  to 


VISIT   TO    THE    GREAT   VOLCANO.  201 

walking.  Smith  informed  me  that  there  were  but  few  horses 
on  the  island,  and  those  have  been  brought  over  from  Oahoo, 
and  are  generally  old  and  broken  down. 

At  1  o'clock  it  commenced  to  rain,  but  it  turned  out  to 
be  only  a  shower.  The  road  now  laid  through  a  dense  forest, 
in  which  we  observed  growing  in  great  abundance  the  Teutui- 
tree,  from  the  nut  of  which  the  natives  extract  an  excellent 
oil.  On  emerging  from  this  wood,  we  found  ourselves  in  a 
country  similar  to  that  we  passed  over  before.  About  4 
o'clock  we  reached  the  house  where  Captain  Wilkes  and 
party  spent  their  second  night  while  on  their  way  to  the  sum- 
mit of  Mouna  L')a.  It  is  a  large  native  building,  standing 
a  few  hundred  yards  from  the  road,  with  some  cultivated 
land  around  it.  We  now  came  to  a  region  of  country  entirely 
composed  of  lava  and  producing  no  other  vegetation  than  what 
grew  in  the  crevices.  This  lava  was  of  a  dark  brown  color 
and  very  hard,  and  with  a  surface  ruffled  like  that  of  the  sea 
at  the  first  springing  up  of  a  breeze.  It  was  a  highly  interest- 
ing scene  both  for  the  geologist  and  mineralogist.  After  a 
walk  of  between  three  and  four  miles  over  this  volcanic  re- 
gion, we  passed  on  our  left  a  cluster  of  cottages,  surrounded 
apparently  by  a  rich  soil,  and  shortly  after  reached  what  is 
called  the  "  half-way  house,"  where  we  proposed  to  spend  the 
night.  Upon  entering,  the  inmates  immediately  retired  to 
one  of  the  out-houses,  thus  giving  us  possession  of  the  en- 
tire building.  It  appeared  to  be  newly  erected  and  better  con- 
structed than  any  building  we  had  seen  on  the  way.  In  the 
centre  of  the  floor  was  a  cheerful  fire,  the  sight  of  which 
we  hailed  with  joy,  for  we  were  both  wet  and  cold.  Around 
its  gladsome  blaze  we  seated  ourselves,  enjoyed  its  genial 
warmth,  dried  our  clothing,  and  then  proceeded  to  par- 
take our  repast.     When  the  repast  was  over  we  once  morp 


202  VISIT    TO    THE    GREAT    VOLCANO, 

gathered  around  the  fire,  and,  after  comfortably  warming  our- 
selves, retired  for  the  night. 

January  26th.  At  8  o'clock  we  resumed  our  journey.  It 
w-as  a  bright  sunny  morning,  and  the  neighboring  woods  were 
enlivened  with  songsters  of  various  colors  and  species.  Few 
birds  are  to  be  seen  along  the  shore,  but  in  the  interior  of  the 
island  they  are  numerous,  and  the  notes  of  three  or  four  kinds 
are  exceedingly  sweet. 

Between  11  and  12  we  reached  the  two  shanties  situated 
about  eight  miles  from  the  volcano.  Here  we  halted  for  the 
baggage  men  to  come  up.  Scarcely  had  we  got  seated  when 
a  girl  about  sixteen  years  of  age,  entered,  and  took  a  seat  by 
us.  Upon  inquiry  she  informed  us  that  she  belonged  to  the 
opposite  side  of  the  island  and  was  going  to  visit  some  of  her 
friends  who  were  residing  near  Hilo.  She  was  evidently  one 
of  the  lower  class,  yet  her  manners  were  pleasing  and  even 
graceful.  Perceiving  she  was  without  provisions,  we  offered 
her  some  of  our  own,  but  she  declined  the  offer,  and  shortly 
after  rose  up  and  proceeded  on  her  journey. 

The  scantiness  of  vegetation,  the  presence  of  disrupted 
volcanic  masses,  and  the  appearance  of  columns  of  steam  is- 
suing from  the  rents  intersecting  the  ground  over  which  we 
were  passsing,  convinced  us  that  we  must  be  near  the  crater 
Kiiauea. 

At  length,  about  4  o'clock,  we  came  in  sight  of  the  mo- 
narch of  all  volcanoes — but  the  light  of  day,  robbed  it  of  much 
of  its  splendor  ;  still  the  eye  of  man  never  beheld  a  more 
sublime  and  terrific  scene.  Before  us  was  a  cavity  between 
six  and  seven  miles  in  circumference  and  upwards  of  a  thou- 
sand feet  in  depth ;  within  this  were  to  be  seen  lakes  of  varied 
size  and  form,  filled  with  burning  matter,  and  emitting  columns 
of  flame  and  vapor. 


VISIT    TO    THE    GREAT    VOLCANO.  203 

It  is  remarkable  that  this  crater  should  present  an  external 
aspect  so  entirely  dissimilar  to  that  of  Etna  and  Vesuvius,  or 
any  of  the  volcanoes  of  South  America.  Those  are  characte- 
rized by  an  elevated  cone,  out  of  which  are  ejected  igneous 
rocks  and  ashes.  Kilauea,  on  the  contrary,  is  an  immense 
depression  in  the  midst  of  a  vast  plain  with  ipiothing  to  warn 
you  of  a  near  approach  but  the  signs  which  I  have  before 
spoken  of. 

We  now  directed  our  course  toward  the  cluster  of  shanties 
erected  on  the  brim  of  the  crater  by  Captain  Wilkes's  party, 
which  we  soon  reached,  and  found  one  occupied  by  Dr.  Pick- 
ering, who  came  round  by  the  sea-shore.  The  remaining 
shanties  were  in  the  possession  of  about  fifty  natives,  who  had 
come  from  a  town  near  the  coast  to  take  away  a  large  canoe 
which  they  had  made  in  the  neighboring  wood,  some  time  pre- 
vious. 

After  supper  we  proceeded  in  company  with  Dr.  Pickering 
to  a  place  about  half  a  mile  to  the  eastward  of  the  shanties 
to  obtain  a  view  of  a  small  crater  which  was  represented  to 
be  unusually  active.  We  could  not  possibly  have  selected  a 
more  eligible  position.  We  stood  on  a  pile  of  rocks  which 
commanded  a  bird's-eye  view  of  the  fiery  lake.  It  was 
several  thousand  feet  in  circumference,  and  nearly  round  in 
form.  The  color  of  its  burning  contents  was  that  of  a  cherry- 
red  or  deep  crimson,  and  it  was  in  a  state  of  terrific  ebullition. 
Sometimes  the  fiery  fluid  was  ejected  many  feet  into  the  air, 
at  other  times  it  was  seen  to  overflow  the  edges  on  the  circumja- 
cent lava,  for  many  yards  distant.  We  continued  to  gaze  upon 
the  scene  about  an  hour,  and  then  returned  to  our  lodgings, 
where  we  soon  had  opporturnity  of  observing  another  phenome- 
non of  a  character  not  less  grand  and  splendid.  We  were  re- 
clining on  our  mats,  with  our  eyes  directed  towards  the  largest 


204  SANIWICH    ISLANDS. 


of  the  lakes,  when  a  portion  of  the  bank  forming  one  of  its 
sides,  was  seen  to  give  way  and  fall  into  the  liquid  lava  beneath 
with  a  frightful  crash.  The  whole  surface  was  in  the  most  vio- 
lent agitation ;  billows  were  formed  as  high  apparently  as  any 
we  had  ever  seen  on  the  ocean,  and  dashed  against  the  side  of 
the  crater  with  such  violence  as  to  throw  the  fiery  spray  sixty 
or  seventy  feet  high.  The  sight  of  this  spectacle  alone  would 
have  repaid  us  for  the  trouble  of  coming  thus  far.  When  the 
surface  of  the  fiery  stream  became  quiescent  again,  we  wrapped 
ourselves  in  our  blankets  and  sought  repose. 

When  breakfast  was  over,  we  proceeded  to  visit  the  bottom 
of  the  crater.  After  a  brief  walk  in  the  direction  of  the  Sul- 
phur Springs,  we  turned  to  the  left,  and  suddenly  commenced 
descending  by  a  steep  and  rugged  path ;  columns  of  vapors 
smelling  strongly  of  sulphur  were  issuing  from  crevices  and 
pits  lining  either  side  of  the  road.  We  estimated  some  of 
the  latter  to  be  upwards  of  two  hundred  feet  in  depth.  After 
a  descent  of  about  one  quarter  of  a  mile,  we  passed  on  our 
right  a  crater  which  bore  unmistakable  signs  of  having  long 
since  become  extinct ;  it  was  everywhere  covered  with  shrub- 
bery, and  trees  of  considerable  dimensions.  Another  walk  of 
about  fifteen  minutes  brought  us  to  what  is  called  the  ''  Ledge." 
It  was  not  until  then  that  we  formed  an  adequate  idea  of  the 
magnitude  and  sublimity  of  this  wonderful  crater.  On  which- 
soever side  we  cast  our  eyes,  we  beheld  a  wall  of  solid  lava 
of  a  thousand  feet,  or  more,  in  altitude,  and  from  six  to  seven 
miles  in  circumference.  This  ledge  surrounds  the  crater ; 
thus  forming  a  kind  of  natural  gallery  several  hundred  yards 
in  width.  The  surface  is  but  little  broken,  and  presents  a 
uniform  appearance,  being  of  a  dark  brown  or  iron  color. 

At  length  we  reached  the  bottom.  The  path  leading  to 
this  was  also  very  abrupt  and  dangerous  ;  we  were  in  danger 


VISIT    TO    THE    GREAT    VOLCANO.  205 

every  moment  of  being  killed  by  the  falling  of  fragments  of 
rocks,  or  of  being  precipitated  down  the  fathomless  pits.  The 
descent  did  not  exceed  four  hundred  yards,  but  we  were  up- 
wards of  twenty  minutes  in  accomplishing  it. 

Dr.  Pickering  and  myself  remained  at  the  bottom  of  the 
crater  upwards  of  an  hour.  It  varies  in  its  character  much  ;  in 
some  places  the  surface  is  so  hot  as  to  be  painful  to  the  feet, 
and  the  gurgling  sound  of  the  liquid  lava  beneath  warned  us 
that  we  were  treading  on  dangerous  ground ;  in  others  it  was 
broken  and  twisted  into  every  imaginable  shape  ;  in  others  it 
was  thrown  up  in  the  wildest  confusion,  resulting,  no  doubt, 
from  the  sudden  cooling  and  contracting  of  the  lava  ;  in 
another  place  there  were  lakes  of  fire  and  smoke,  and  in 
others  again  it  presented  a  smooth  glassy-like  surface,  and  so 
fragile  as  to  frequently  break  through,  and  precipitate  us 
several  feet  before  we  gained  a  sure  footing.  I  received  several 
falls,  and  bruised  my  hands  and  knees  dreadfully. 

We  approached  within  a  few  yards  of  the  largest  of  the 
lakes.  It  is  situated  to  the  northeast,  and  ranges  in  a  direction 
nearly  east  and  west,  and  we  estimated  its  circumference  at  up- 
wards of  three-quarters  of  a  mile,  it  being  oval  in  shape  ;  at  the 
east  end  the  lava  flowed  in  gentle  waves — at  the  west  it  was  in 
a  much  higher  state  of  action — it  was  there  boiling  and  thrown 
up  into  the  air  to  the  height  of  hundreds  of  feet,  and  then  de- 
scending again  in  showers  of  spray.  The  heat  was  so  intense 
as  to  burn  our  hands  and  faces  many  yards  distant,  and  the 
glare  so  strong  as  to  be  painful  to  the  eyes.  Thick  black 
columns  of  smoke  rose  from  the  centre.  The  wind  roared  like 
thunder,  as  it  rushed  by  us  to  fill  the  vacuum  produced  by 
the  intense  heat,  while  at  intervals  the  bank  on  which  we 
stood,  cracked  and  shook  in  the  most  frightful  manner. 
The  idea  of  falling  into  some  of  these  fissures  was  by  no 


206  SANDWICH    ISLANDS. 


means  agreeable,  and  really,  I,  for  one,  felt  very  much  re- 
lieved when  we  turned  our  eyes  from  the  scene  to  retrace 
our  steps. 

On  our  regaining  the  ledge,  we  fell  in  with  Mr.  H.,  who 
had  gone  to  collect  some  specimens  of  what  is  called  Pole's 
hair.  He  succeeded,  and  beautiful  specimens  they  were. 
There  seems  to  be  some  doubt  as  to  the  manner  this  is  pro- 
duced. My  opinion  is,  that  it  is  formed  simply  by  the  sweep- 
ing of  the  wind  over  the  surface  of  the  lava  while  in  a  liquid 
state.  It  is  to  be  found  all  over  the  ledge,  and  on  the  bushes 
growing  around  the  brim  of  the  crater ;  it  very  much  resembles 
tufts  of  fine  flax.  On  the  leeward  side  of  the  crater,  Mr.  H. 
found  it  so  abundant  that  the  ground  in  places  appeared  as  if 
covered  with  cobwebs. 

Pole,  according  to  the  mythology  of  the  natives,  is  the 
goddess  of  Kilauea,  and  it  is  behoved  that  many  of  them  still 
worship  her  in  secret.  It  is  said  that  they  never  approached 
it  previous  to  tiie  introduction  of  Christianity,  without  the 
greatest  fear  and  veneration,  and  then  only  to  deliver  their 
offering  by  casting  it  into  the  burning  lake. 

When  about  half  way  back  we  met  Mr.  Lyman,  one  of  the 
resident  missionaries,  and  Mr.  Elliott,  our  chaplain.  At  3 
P.  M.  we  reached  our  lodgings,  and,  as  might  be  expected, 
were  hungry,  thirsty,  and  very  much  fatigued.  After  dinner 
I  accompanied  Mr,  H.  to  the  Sulphur  Banks  to  procure  some 
specimens,  but  in  this  we  were  disappointed,  as  we  saw  none 
that  were  worth  the  trouble  of  preserving.  There  were  some 
forming,  however,  which  promised  to  be  very  fine.  The  edges 
of  several  of  the  crevices  from  which  the  gases  issued  that 
produced  the  sulphur,  were  lining  with  crystals  of  the  most 
beautiful  shape  and  briUiancy.  We  estimated  the  length  of 
these  banks  to  be  two  hundred  yards,  and  their  height  from 


VISIT    TO    THE    GREAT    VOLCANO.  207 

ten  to  thirty  feet.     Many  caverns  and  chasms  were  observable 
in  their  vicinity. 

The  ensuing  night  harmonized  well  with  the  glorious  scenes 
witnessed  during  the  day : — 

*'  As  when  the  moon,  refulgent  lamp  of  night, 
O'er  heaven's  clear  azure  spreads  her  sacred  light. 
When  not  a  breath  disturbs  the  deep  serene, 
And  not  a  cloud  o'ercasts  the  solemn  scene :  ' 

Around  her  throne  the  vivid  planets  roll, 
And  stars  unnumber'd  gild  the  glowing  pole ; 
O'er  the  dark  trees  a  yellower  verdure  shed. 
And  tip  with  silver  every  mountain's  head." 

January  28th.  At  an  early  hour  I  bade  adieu  to  Kilauea, 
and  set  out  to  return  to  Hilo,  taking  the  route  by  which  Dr. 
Pickering  had  ascended.  After  a  walk  of  about  five  miles 
I  overtook  the  party  of  Kanakas  whom  we  found  at  the  vol- 
cano on  the  evening  of  our  arrival.  They  were  compelled  to 
bear  the  canoe  on  their  shoulders,  as  the  road  was  too  steep 
and  rugged  to  allow  the  use  of  rollers.  At  11  o'clock  I  came 
in  sight  of  Mount  Popii,  and  by  noon  reached  the  summit, 
from  which  I  had  a  view  of  the  crater  on  the  western  side.  It 
appears  very  ancient,  as  everywhere  it  is  covered  with  trees 
and  shrubbery.  It  resembles  a  funnel  in  shape,  and  I  estimated 
its  depth  to  be  four  hundred  feet. 

Leaving  Mount  Popii,  I  turned  oif  to  a  path  diverging  to 
the  left,  which  soon  brought  me  to  another  crater.  The 
bottom  of  this  was  overflowed  with  fresh  lava ;  but  it  did  not 
materially  diifer  from  the  one  above  mentioned.  This  lava 
had  doubtless  run  in  during  the  recent  eruption,  and  worked 
its  way  from  the  crater  Kilauea  by  some  subterranean  passage ; 
its  color  was  nearly  that  of  clay,  and  the  surface  appeared 
highly  glazed — the  aperture  through  which  ii;  run  in  may  still 


208  SANDWICH    ISLANDS. 


be  seen.  It  bore  from  where  I  was  standing  about  northwest, 
is  several  feet  in  circumference,  about  fifty  yards  from  the  top 
of  the  crater,  and  one  hundred  yards  from  the  bottom. 

Pursuing  the  same  path  I  next  came  to  the  bed  of  lava, 
which  owes  its  origin  to  the  same  eruption  as  that  just  alluded 
to ;  this  presented  the  most  singular  spectacle.  Many  of  the 
trees  with  which  the  whole  country  was  formerly  covered  are 
^  still  standing,  overlooking  the  scene  of  desolation.  The  lava 
was  in  that  state  which  it  generally  assumes  after  it  com- 
mences to  cool.  Throughout  its  whole  length  and  breadth  it 
was  split  and  broken  into  pieces  of  various  shapes  and  sizes ; 
gases  were  escaping  from  several  of  the  rents  which  smelt 
strongly  of  sulphur,  insomuch  that  I  became  aware  of  their 
existence  an  hour  or  two  previous  to  my  reaching  them.  It  was 
from  these  fissures  that  the  liquid  mass  made  its  appearance. 
One  of  them  is  nearly  three  feet  in  width,  another  two  feet, 
and  a  third  eighteen  inches.  From  the  summit  of  Mount 
Popii  a  fine  view  of  the  stream  may  be  obtained.  It  is  about 
three  miles  long,  and  from  three  to  five  hundred  yards  wide. 
The  appearance  of  the  surface  is  uniform,  being  of  a  color 
nearly  black,  and  full  of  glittering  crystals.  The  average 
height  above  the  adjacent  ground  is  four  feet.  No  one  can 
see  all  this,  and  yet  question  the  theory  of  the  igneous 
fluidity  of  the  centre  of  our  globe.  All  combustible  causes 
that  we  are  aquainted  with  are  totally  inadequate  to  produce 
such  an  effect. 

It  was  my  intention  to  have  visited  another  crater,  which 
I  was  told  to  be  still  larger  than  any  I  had  seen,  except  that 
of  Kilauea  ;  but  having  missed  the  path  leading  to  it,  and  it 
being  also  near  sunset,  I  deemed  it  best  to  endeavor  to  reach 
a  house  about  two  miles  off*,  where  Smith  said  I  would  find 
good  lodgings,  and  which  I  succeeded  in  reaching  about  dusk. 


VISIT    TO    THE    GREAT    VOLCANO.  209 

Smith  was  right ;  we  had  excellent  accommodations,  and  our 
sleep  was  sweet  and  refreshing. 

January  29th.  The  landscape  was  still  glittering  with  the 
dews  of  night  when  I  resumed  my  journey.  The  morning  is 
the  proper  time  to  travel  here,  as  the  air  is  then  cool  and 
delicious.  After  a  short  walk  I  reached  a  village,  containing 
between  twenty  and  thirty  houses.  As  I  passed  through, 
many  of  the  inhabitants  came  out  of  their  dwellings  to  inquire 
where  I  was  going,  and  from  whence  I  came.  The  Hawaiians 
are  naturally  a  very  curious  and  inquisitive  people.  The 
land  in  the  vicinity  of  this  village  appeared  fertile,  and  was 
in  a  high  state  of  cultivation.  Among  other  productions,  I 
observed  the  coffee-tree  and  sugar-cane.  The  average  height 
of  full-grown  coffee  trees  is  about  nine  feet ;  they  arrive  at 
their  full  growth  in  four  or  five  years,  and  continue  to  bear 
from  ten  to  fifteen  years.  The  coffee-blossom  is  a  beautiful 
and  highly  fragrant  little  white  flower,  and  the  berry,  when 
fully  ripe,  is  of  a  pale  red  color.  I  came  next  to  a  field  of 
lava,  which,  like  those  I  passed  yesterday,  had  been  torn  and 
shattered,  either  by  the  expansive  force  of  the  air  underneath 
at  the  time  the  lava  was  in  a  semi-fluid  state,  or  by  some  vio- 
lent convulsion  of  nature.  The  traveling  over  it  was  exces- 
sively fatiguing,  as  the  lava  was  both  very  rugged  and  brittle. 

Leaving  this  barren  and  solitary  waste,  I  soon  passed  on 
my  left  several  conical  hills,  which  were  once  craters,  but  now 
are  overgrown  with  bushes  and  other  vegetation. 

At  3  o'clock  I  stopped  at  a  shanty,  erected  by  the  side  of 
the  road,  to  prepare  dinner,  and  to  allow  the  natives,  who  car- 
ried the  baggage  and  specimens,  to  come  up. 
•  Having  refreshed  ourselves,  we  pursued  our  way.  The  path 
now  lay  through  an  open  country,  covered  witb  light  yellow  soil 
producing  nothing  but  grasses,  and  a  few  whortleberry  bushes. 


210  SANDWICH    ISLANDS. 


Another  two  hours'  walk  brought  us  to  a  pool  of  rain  water ; 
here  we  filled  up  our  water  bags  and  calabashes.  There  are 
but  few  springs  in  this  part  of  Hawaii,  and  no  rivers — so  that 
the  inhabitants  are  obliged  to  have  recourse  to  the  method  of 
catching  rain-water  in  calabashes,  which  they  keep  suspended 
in  great  numbers  around  the  roofs  of  their  habitations  at  all 
times.  Nature  is  boundless  in  her  resources,  and  the  more 
we  inquire  and  examine,  the  more  we  are  lost  in  wonder  and 
admiration  at  the  great  scheme  for  carrying  on  the  designs  of 
the  Creator.  Though  some  parts  of  these  islands  are  left  for 
six  months  together  without  rain,  yet  an  ample  provision  has 
been  made  to  counteract  the  ill-effects  of  so  long  a  drought. 
Vegetation,  which,  with  us,  would  speedily  perish  without  an 
abundant  supply  of  rain,  is  there  sufficiently  nourished  by  that 
moisture,  which  plants,  as  they  bud  and  blossom  and  produce 
their  fruit,  have  the  power  of  hoarding  up  and  retaining  from 
one  rainy  season  to  another,  and  by  the  heavy  dews  that 
nightly  fall  upon  their  large  expanded  leaves. 

About  sunset,  we  arrived  at  Waiiha,  where  I  determined  to 
spend  the  night.  This  is  a  pleasant  village,  situated  within  a 
few  miles  of  the  sea-shore.  The  inhabitants  appeared  to  be 
in  very  comfortable  circumstances  ;  their  houses  were  large 
and  well  furnished,  after  the  native  manner.  The  dwelling  in 
which  I  took  lodgings,  was  the  property  of  the  principal 
magistrate  of  the  place.  He  himself  was  absent,  but  his  wife 
^  gave  me  a  cordial  welcome  ;  she  received  me  with  many  ex- 
pressions of  kindness,  led  me  into  the  house,  and  immediately 
set  about  to  prepare  a  repast.  We  had  two  dishes,  which 
deserve  notice,  as  I  believe  they  are  peculiar  to  the  natives  of 
these  islands ;  the  names  under  which  they  are  best  known, 
are  Poi  and  Poi-dog — the  former  is  made  of  boiled  taro, 
pounded  up  and  mixed  with  water  into  a  paste ;  it  is  served  up 


VISIT    TO    THE    GREAT    VOLCANO.  211 


in  calabashes,  and  conveyed  to  the  mouth  with  the  fingers,  by 
all  ranks  and  ages.  People  who  live  on  the  sea-coast,  eat 
with  it  a  small  fish  in  a  raw  state,  resembling  the  sardine. 

The  Poi-dog  is  not  one  of  our  common  curs,  but  a  dainty 
animal,  fed  entirely  on  vegetable  food,  generally  on  taro  made 
into  a  poi,  and  hence  the  name — (a  Hawaiian  would  no  more 
eat  one  of  our  kind  of  dogs  than  we  would) — the  animal  is 
sometimes  roasted  before  the  fire  just  as  we  roast  beef ;  but 
more  generally  it  is  "  lau-ude,''  that  is,  after  the  skin  is 
taken  off,  the  animal  is  wrapped  up  in  leaves  and  put  into  a 
hole  made  in  the  earth,  of  several  feet  in  circumference,  and 
about  two  feet  in  depth ;  when  in,  some  more  leaves  are  spread 
over  the  animal,  hot  stones  are  then  placed  on  the  leaves,  and 
a  covering  of  nine  or  ten  inches  thick,  formed  of  leaves  and 
earth,  is  spread  over  the  whole.  In  this  state  the  animal 
remains  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  when  the  hole  is 
opened  and  the  animal  taken  out.  The  many  eulogies  passed 
on  the  dish  by  my  kind  hostess,  and  my  curiosity  in  the  matter, 
conquered  my  prejudices  against  the  name,  and  really  had  I 
not  known  to  the  contrary,  I  should  have  thought  I  was  par- 
taking of  a  piece  of  roast  pig. 

January  31st.  At  an  early  hour  I  took  leave  of  the  kind 
family,  with  whom  I  passed  the  night.  The  Hawaiians  are  a 
hospitable  people,  and  there  are  many  of  them  who,  if  they 
had  only  one  fowl  or  pig  in  the  world,  would  cheerfully  take 
it  to  furnish  a  repast  for  a  friend  or  a  stranger. 

After  a  brief  walk  I  reached  the  sea- shore,  which  I  found 
thickly  sprinkled  with  cottages.  At  10  o'clock  I  halted  at  a 
house  which  was  deserted,  to  partake  of  some  breakfast.  This 
house,  I  was  told  by  the  guide,  had  been  the  residence  of  a 
chief,  and  was  deserted  during  the  recent  eruption,  when  it 
was  believed  that  it,  like  many  others,  would  be  destroyed  by 


212  SAND  VICH    ISLANDS 


the  liquid  lava.  It  was  large  and  well  built,  and  commanded 
a  fine  view  of  the  ocean. 

When  breakfast  was  over,  I  proceeded  to  visit  the  place 
where  the  stream  of  lava  run  into  the  sea  during  the  eruption 
just  alluded  to,  also  the  three  hills,  said  to  have  been  formed 
at  the  same  time.  The  direction  of  the  stream  was  northeast, 
and  is  said  to  be  between  twenty  and  thirty  miles  in  length, 
and  from  one  to  nine  thousand  yards  in  width.  When  first 
discovered  it  was  supposed  that  a  new  crater  had  been  formed  ; 
but  it  is  now  ascertained  that  it  worked  its  way  from  the  old 
Volcano  Kilauea.  The  depth  of  the  stream,  as  seen  down  the 
rents,  was  from  five  to  twenty  feet.  At  first  it  flowed  smoothly, 
and  after  remaining  so  for  some  ten  days,  broke  up  into  its 
present  rough  and  confused  state.  I  estimated  its  breadth, 
where  it  run  into  the  sea,  to  be  two  thousand  feet.  The  lava, 
as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  was  of  a  jet-black  color,  and 
excessively  brittle.  I  ascended  two  of  the  highest  hills  ;  they 
stood  within  a  few  yards  of  the  beach,  and  parallel  to  each 
other — were  formed  of  sand,  scoria,  and  ashes — and  I  found 
their  height  to  be  two  hundred  feet.  It  is  not  likely  they 
will  remain  permanent,  as  the  surf  is  continually  boating 
against  their  sides  and  gradually  washing  them  away.  Near 
these  hills  were  two  sand-beaches,  which  owed  their  origin  to 
the  same  eruption.  The  sand  was  composed  of  a  substance 
similar  to  that  of  the  adjoining  lava,  and  was  probably  formed 
by  the  igneous  stream  coming  in  contact  with  the  sea.  The 
lava  suddenly  cooling,  flew  into  small  pieces  and  particles,  and 
was  thrown  back  upon  the  land  by  the  agita-ted  waters. 

I  now  walked  along  the  coast,  sometimes  keeping  so  near 
the  edge  as  to  be  wet  with  the  spray  of  the  surge  which  broke 
violently  against  it.  The  houses  thickened,  and  about  4 
o'clock  I  reached  a  hamlet,  consisting  of  some  dozen  or  fifteen 


SANDWICH    ISLANDS.  213 

cottages.  After  another  two  hours'  walk  I  arrived  at  the  last 
village  within  the  district  of  Puna.  The  appearance  presented 
by  this  village  was  very  inviting.  The  houses  were  mostly 
built  among  shady  groves,  while  the  country  in  the  vicinity 
was  beautifully  laid  out  in  plantations  and  gardens.  It  had 
an  air  of  freshness  and  comfort  which  was  very  gratifying, 
especially  after  coming  from  the  desolate  scene  above  de- 
scribed. The  inhabitants,  though  not  so  well  dressed,  or  per- 
haps not  so  far  advanced  in  the  scale  of  civilization  as  those 
about  Hilo,  were  very  kind  and  hospitable.  Many  of  them 
invited  me  to  their  houses,  and  made  me  presents  of  cocoa- 
nuts  and  bananas. 

After  walking  a  mile  or  two  farther  I  came  to  a  piece  of 
wood,  the  traveling  through  which  was  exceedingly  fatiguing 
and  dangerous,  as  at  almost  every  step  I  sank  ankle-deep  into 
mud,  or  fell  into  some  hole,  which  the  darkness  of  the  night 
rendered  invisible.  But  as  I  was  aware  that  the  wood  was  of 
no  great  extent,  and  that  when  through  it  I  should  be  near  my 
journey's  end,  I  pushed  on,  and  about  eight  o'clock  I  had  the 
satisfaction  of  finding  myself  in  the  open  country  about  Hilo. 
I  directed  my  steps  to  the  Observatory,  and  on  reaching  it  found 
there  one  of  our  boats,  which  conveyed  me  to  the  ship,  and  so 
ended  this  interesting  jaunt.  It  afforded  me  both  amusement 
and  instruction ;  and  it  is  not  likely  that  some  of  the  impres- 
sions it  has  left  upon  my  mind  will  ever  be  effaced  while  on 
this  side  of  the  grave. 

During  my  absence  nothing  worthy  of  particular  notice  tran- 
spired, except  the  return  of  the  expedition  which  set  out  to 
ascend  Mauna  Loa.  Indomitable  perseverance  eventually  over- 
came all  obstacles,  and  the  "  Stars  and  Stripes"  waved  up- 
wards of  a  week  over  one  of  the  highest  mountains  in  tlie  world. 
The  success  of  the  undertaking  was  as  complete  as  could  be 


214  SANDWICH    ISLANDS. 


wished.  The  altitude  of  the  most  elevated  point  of  the  moun- 
tain was  measured,  and  found  to  be  13,500  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  ocean. 

The  following  observations,  extracted  from  Mr.  Eld's 
journal,  will  give  some  idea  of  the  character  of  the  mountain, 
and  of  the  hardships  experienced  by  our  people  during  their 
continuance  on  its  summit.     He  says — 

"  I  never  in  all  my  life  have  witnessed  so  perfect  a  scene 
of  desolation  as  the  upper  region  of  this  mountain  presents. 
There  is  not  a  tree  on  it,  nor  shrub,  nor  any  other  kind  of  vege- 
tation, to  refresh  the  eye.  You  behold  nothing  but  a  mass  of 
lava  that  at  one  period  has  been  ejected  in  a  liquid  state  from 
the  terminal  crater.  To  appearance  it  is  of  different  ages, 
some  of  very  ancient  date,  though  not  yet  decomposed.  In 
some  places  it  is  smooth,  in  others  it  appears  in  the  form  of 
clinkers,  which  occasionally  are  raised  from  five  to  thirty  feet 
above  the  surface  of  the  surrounding  lava.  There  are  several 
extinct  craters  in  sight,  one  of  which  is  even  larger  than  that 
of  Kilauea." 

"  December  25th.  This  is  the  most  uncomfortable  Christ- 
mas-day I  have  ever  experienced.  The  only  way  we  had  of 
keeping  warm  was  to  wrap  ourselves  in  pea-coats  and  blankets. 
We  had  not  wood  enough  to  cook  our  food,  and  I  had  to  con- 
tent myself  with  some  sea-biscuit  and  a  piece  of  raw  pork." 

''  December  27th.  The  cold  this  day  to  our  feelings  was 
intense,  although  the  thermometer  did  not  stand  lower  than 
26°.  All  our  exertions  in  carrying  stone  for  the  wall  which  is 
to  surround  our  tents,  for  the  purpose  of  protecting  them  from 
the  violent  winds,  and  other  exercises,  such  as  running  and 
jumping,  could  scarcely  keep  us  from  freezing.  We  also  found 
it  very  difiicult  to  breathe,  on  account  of  the  rarified  state  of 
the  air.     On  examination  it  was  also  found  that  our  pulses 


SANDWICH    ISLANDS.  21S 

varied,  and  were  very  easily  excited — mine  fluctuated  from 
80  to  120  beats." 

"  December  28th.  This  has  been  a  pleasant  day  for  these 
regions.  At  sunrise  the  efiect  of  horizontal  refraction  on  the 
sun  was  very  perceptible.  It  seemed  quite  small  as  it  ap- 
peared above  the  sea,  forming  a  long  horizontal  ellipse  of  two 
and  a  half  diameters,  first  enlarging  on  one  side  and  then 
another." 

"  On  the  31st  the  temperature  at  noon  in  the  sun  was  92°, 
in  the  shade  at  55°,  and  after  dusk  it  was  as  low  as  13°.  In 
the  afternoon  I  had  an  attack  of  the  Mountain  Sickness.  I 
was  sick  at  the  stomach,  and  had  a  severe  pain  in  the  head." 

"  The  night  was  favorable  for  observations,  and  we  made 
many." 

On  the  morning  of  the  5th  of  February  we  got  under- way, 
and  shaped  our  course  for  Maui. 

The  following  day,  at  2.45  P.  M.,  the  Island  of  Kaloolawe 
bore  west  north-west.  This  is  a  small,  barren  island,  and 
used  by  the  Hawaiian  Government  as  a  place  of  exile  for  con- 
victs, who  depend  on  rain-water  for  drink,  and  glean  a  scanty 
subsistence  from  potatoes,  which  they  manage  to  raise  on  one 
or  two  fertile  patches.  At  4  P.  M.  we  descried  the  Island  of 
Maui ;  it  appeared  at  a  distance  like  two  distinct  islands. 
The  coast  was  generally  bold  and  steep,  and  intersected  by 
numerous  valleys,  or  ravines.  Many  of  these  are  apparently 
formed  by  streams  from  the  mountains  which  flow  through 
them  into  the  sea.  The  rocks  along  the  coast  were  composed 
of  very  hard  compact  lava,  or  a  kind  of  basalt' 

The  habitations  of  the  natives  appeared  in  clusters  at  the 
openings  of  the  valleys,  or  scattered  over  the  sides  of  the 
\mfs.     It  is  a  beautiful  island. 

About  sunset  we  came-to  off"  Lahaina,  the  principal  town. 


216  SANDWICH    ISLANDS. 

February  8th.  This  forenoon  we  were  honored  with  a  visit 
from  his  Ha\^ian  majesty,  Tamahameha  III.  As  we  had  the 
chronometers  on  board  we  did  not  salute  him,  but  paid  him, 
however,  every  other  mark  of  respect.  Tamahameha  III,  or 
Kamme,  as  he  is  familiarly  called,  is  a  son  of  the  celebrated 
Tamahameha  I.,  and  a  brother  of  Liho-Liho,  during  whose 
reign  idolatry  and  the  taboo  system  were  abolished.  He  is 
probably  twenty-seven  years  of  age,  of  a  middle  height,  and 
rather  inclined  to  be  corpulent.  His  complexion  is  dark  olive, 
his  hair  of  a  jet  black  and  straight,  and  his  countenance 
mild  and  interesting.  In  disposition,  he  is  frank,  kind  and 
generous.  The  people  always  speak  of  him  as  a  good  man. 
His  manners  are  perfectly  free  and  agreeable.  He  was  edu- 
cated under  the  surveillance  of  the  missionaries,  and,  besides 
reading  and  writing  his  own  language,  can  speak  English  and 
Spanish  intelligibly.  About  two  years  since,  he  married  the 
daughter*  of  a  chief  of  the  second  rank,  but,  as  yet,  he  has 
no  children.  He  is  generally  attended  by  a  number  of  favor- 
ites who  join  in  all  his  amusements  and  occupations.  His 
dress  on  state  occasions,  consists  of  a  blue  coat  with  epaulettes, 
white  pantaloons  and  vest,  a  chapeau,  and  a  sword.  At 
other  times,  he  generally  appears  in  a  blue  jacket  and  a  blue 
cloth  cap  with  a  gold  band  around  it.  He  is  very  fond  of  the 
sea,  and  has  a  schooner  belonging  to  himself,  in  which  he 
spends  much  of  his  time.  He  is  also  fond  of  all  kinds  of  ath- 
letic exercises,  is  an  excellent  rider,  and  a  good  shot.  He 
made  us  a  long  visit,  and  examined  every  part  of  the  ship. 
He  appears  to  entertain  a  high  opinion  of  Americans,  and  I 
understand  he  frequently  consults  them  upon  matters  of  state. 
The  Rev.  Mr.  Richards,  who  acts  as  his  private  secretary, 

•  It  is  said  he  married  her  from  love,  after  the  chiefs  refused  to  allow  him  to  marry 
one  of  his  sisters — a  practice  which  in  former  times  was  not  considered  improper. 


SANDWICH    ISLANDS.  217 

and  who  accompanied  him  on  the  present  occasion,  is  a  native 
of  New  England. 

February  9th.  To-day  I  visited  the  town.  It  is  built  near 
the  sea-shore,  and  the  principal  street  is  about  a  mile  long. 
Near  the  landing-place  is  a  fort  in  good  repair  and  well  adapted 
for  defence.  Many  of  the  houses  have  gardens  attached 
to  them,  in  which  are  growing  taro,  plantains,  bananas, 
cabbages,  onions,  and  a  great  variety  of  other  vegetables. 
The  king's  palace  is  not  yet  finished,  and  he  resides  at  pre- 
sent in  a  grass  house  built  after  the  native  style.  The  ma- 
terial employed  in  the  construction  of  the  new  building  is 
coral,  brought  from  the  neighboring  reefs.  The  town  contains 
several  stores,  a  chapel,  and  a  reading-room.  It  has  con- 
siderable trade  with  whaling  vessels. 

The  inhabitants  are  numerous,  and  as  well-dressed  and  well- 
behaved  as  any  we  have  seen  in  the  group.  The  surrounding 
country  is  very  romantic  and  beautiful.  The  whole  valley  in 
the  rear  of  the  town  is  a  perfect  garden.  The  habitations  of  the 
natives  are  seen  peeping  through  the  leaves  of  the  trees  ;  a  fine 
stream  takes  its  course  from  one  end  of  the  valley  to  the  other — 
in  some  places  flowing  along  gently  and  smoothly — at  others, 
rushing  down  a  fall  of  several  feet,  and  dashing  and  breaking 
against  the  rocks  that  intercepts  its  progress  ;  while  the  sides 
of  the  hills  which  bound  the  valley  towards  the  interior,  are 
covered  with  verdure.  An  excellent  view  may  be  obtained  of 
this  charming  landscape  from  the  summit  of  the  hill  on  which 
the  high-school  is  located.  There,  as  you  stand,  nearly  three 
hundred  feet  high,  you  behold  in  one  view  the  whole  scene  in 
which  there  are  beauties  that  words  cannot  describe. 

"  But  who  can  paint 

Like  nature  ?     Can  imagination  boast 

Amidst  its  gay  creation,  hues  like  her's  ? 


218  SANDWICH    ISLANDS. 


And  lay  them  on  so  delicately  fine, 
And  lose  them  in  each  other,  as  appears 
In  every  bud  that  blows  ?     If  fancy  then 
Unequal,  fail  beneath  the  pleasing  task, 
Ah  !  what  shall  language  do  ?" 

Want  of  time  prevented  my  visiting  the  High-school,  but, 
I  understand,  it  is  not  in  a  very  flourishing  condition.  The 
missionary  gentlemen  connected  with  the  institution  are,  it  is 
said,  unfitted  for  the  management  of  its  operations.  From 
this  school,  of  late  years,  have  been  taken  all  the  native  tea.ch- 
ers,  and  most  of  the  young  men  employed  on  the  part  of  the 
government.  On  returning  to  the  beach,  I  found  it  thronged 
with  native  children,  who  were  amusing  themselves  in  the 
surf.  This  seems  to  be  a  favorite  sport,  not  only  with  chil- 
dren, but  men  and  women,  and  it  is  a  novel  and  a  beautiful 
sight  to  see  them  coming  in  on  the  top  of  a  wave  moving 
with  a  velocity  that  would  overtake  the  swiftest  of  our  race- 
horses. 

Sometimes  they  will  suddenly  disappear,  and  thus  remain 
until  another  roller  comes  along,  and  dashes  them  upon 
the  beach.  They  will  not  engage  in  the  sport  unless  the 
surf  is  running  high.  The  surf- board  which  they  use  is 
made  of  some  light  wood,  and  is  about  six  feet  in  length 
and  twenty  inches  wide.  It  appeared  to  me  to  be  a  very 
dangerous  amusement,  especially  for  children ;  but  they 
seemed  not  to  mind  it.  I  continued  to  gaze  on  the  scene 
until  our  sun-down  boat  shoved  oiF  to  return  to  the  ship. 

In  the  course  of  the  afternoon  Messrs.  Budd  and  May 
left  the  ship  to  survey  the  shoal  off  the  Island  of  Kaloo- 
lawe. 

March  10th.  Several  boats  have  been  employed  to-day  in 
surveying  and  sounding  the  harbor,  or,  more  properly,  the 


SANDWICH    ISLANDS.  *  22 1 

roadstead ;  the  best  anchorage  is  abreast  of  the  King's  Flag 
Staff. 

March  13th.  This  afternoon  Mr.  May  and  his  boat's  crew 
returned  in  canoes  paddled  by  natives,  the  boat  having 
gone  to  pieces  at  sea  the  same  day  he  left  the  ship.  It 
was  very  fortunate  that  Mr.  Budd  was  near  at  hand  with 
his  boat.  Seeing  their  situation,  he  immediately  pulled  up 
to  them,  and  conveyed  the  crew  ashore.  He  then  returned 
to  the  wreck  for  the  instruments  and  Mr.  May,  who  he 
found  had  drifted,  in  the  meantime,  two  or  three  miles  out 
to  sea. 

After  landing,  they  walked  some  twenty  miles  before  they 
reached  the  settlement,  where  they  were  hospitably  entertained 
by  the  chief,  and  furnished  with  canoes  to  bring  them  back  to 
the  ship.  Mr.  May  might  have  gone  ashore  with  the  men, 
but  he  generously  declined  to  leave  the  wreck  until  the  crew 
were  taken  off  first. 

In  the  evening,  Mr.  Budd  arrived  with  the  instruments ;  he 
stated  that  bad  weather  had  prevented  him  from  carrying  out 
the  instructions,  in  regard  to  the  survey  intrusted  to  his 
charge. 

March  15th.  At  an  early  hour  this  morning,  Mr.  Budd 
and  Mr.  Sanford  left  with  two  boats  to  join  the  king's 
schooner,  the  use  of  which  his  Majesty  had  offered  to 
Captain  Wilkes  until  the  shoal  off  Kaloolawe  could  be  sur- 
veyed. 

The  following  day  we  ascertained  by  triangulation,  the 
elevation  of  the  highest  peak  on  Maui.  It  is  six  thousand 
three  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  ocean.  At  a  height 
of  two  thousand  feet  from  the  base  of  this  mountain,  both  the 
climate  and  soil  are  said  to  be  well  adapted  to  the  growth  of 
wheat  and  Irish  potatoes. 


222  SANDWICH    ISLANDS. 


About  noon  we  got  under  way,  and  stood  over  towards 
Kaloolawe  under  all  sail.  We  "  lay-to  "  during  the  greater 
part  of  the  night, 

March  17th.  At  daylight  wore  ship,  and  stood  in  for 
Kaloolawe,  and  soon  after  fell  in  with  the  king's  schooner. 
As  she  had  not  yet  completed  her  surveying  duties,  we 
called  away  all  our  boats,  and  sent  them  to  assist  her. 
About  9  A.  M.,  the  boats  returned,  and  we  filled  away  and 
stood  for  Oahoo,  while  the  king's  schooner  stood  back  for 
Maui. 

The  shoal  here  alluded  to  is  situated  about  two  miles  from 
the  shore,  has  two  fathoms  water  on  it,  at  low  tide,  and  is 
composed  of  a  number  of  rocks,  all  within  the  circumference 
of  three  hundred  feet.  Ships  passing  through  the  channel 
between  Hawaii  and  Maui,  intending  to  anchor  in  Lahina 
Roads,  must  give  Kaloolawe  a  wide  berth,  and  steer  for  the 
Peak  of  Lanai  until  the  High-school  of  Lahaina  bears  to  the 
eastward  of  east  northeast,  when  they  may  haul  in,  and  steer 
directly  for  it. 

The  principal  object  in  returning  to  Oahoo,  is  to  replenish 
our  stock  of  provisions  and  stores. 

On  the  morning  of  the  19th,  we  anchored  in  Honolulu 
harbor.  We  found  our  friends  and  acquaintances  all  well, 
and  apparently  delighted  at  our  return.  Received  an  official 
visit  from  the  Governor  of  the  island.  He  was  received  with 
all  due  respect.  Governor  Kekuanaoa  is  a  noble,  intelligent 
looking  man,  and  possesses  great  energy  of  character.  He  is 
one  of  the  chiefs  who  accompanied  King  Liho-Liho  in  his 
visit  to  England,  and  speaks  the  English  language  quite 
well.  He  married  the  daughter  of  Tamahameha  I.,  and 
his  son  Prince  Alexander  I.,  is  now  the  heir  to  the  Hawaiian 
throne. 


SANDWICH    ISLANDS.  223 

On  the  22dj  Lieutenant  Alden,  with  two  boats  in  charge, 
left  the  ship  to  re-sound,  and  re-survey  the  harbor  ofiF  Pearl 
River,  on  account  of  some  doubts  being  expressed  by  the 
inhabitants  of  Honolulu,  as  to  the  accuracy  of  the  former 
survey. 

March  25th.  This  evening.  Lieutenant  Alden  returned 
from  Pearl  River,  and  reported  two  of  his  crew  as  having 
deserted.  He  states  that  he  found  every  part  of  his  former 
survey  correct. 


224  NORTHWEST    COAST    OF    AMERICA. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

NORTHWEST    COAST    OF    AMERICA. 

Having  completed  our  surveying  and  scientific  duties  at 
the  Sandwich  Islands,  on  the  morning  of  the  5th  of  April  we 
sailed  for  the  northwest  coast  of  America.  As  light  winds 
prevailed  during  this  and  the  following  day  we  did  not  make 
much  progress  on  our  course. 

On  the  evening  of  the  7th,  we  passed  the  Island  of  Kauie. 
This  is  another  of  the  Sandwich  Islands ;  it  is  about  forty 
miles  in  length  and  twenty-three  in  breath.  The  population 
is  estimated  at  12,000.  Its  valleys  are  fertile,  and  produce 
sugar-cane,  yams,  and  taro. 

On  the  19th,  we  experienced  a  great  change  in  the  weather ; 
the  wind  shifted  from  the  southward  and  eastward  to  the 
northwar4,  and  we  had  some  violent  squalls,  which  compelled 
us  to  reduce  sail  to  reefed-topsails.  In  a  few  minutes  after 
the  wind  shifted,  there  was  a  very  sensible  change  in  the 
temperature,  and  we  found  it  necessary  to  put  on  our  woolen 
clothing  to  keep  comfortable.  At  noon  our  latitude  was 
33°  12'  00''  north,  longitude  152°  28'  00"  west. 

During  the  20th,  21st,  and  23d,  we  must  have  sailed 
through  hundreds  of  acres  covered  with  the  Villula,  or  little 
man-of-war,  as  they  are  commonly  called  by  sailors,  from  their 
resemblance  to  a  vessel  under  canvas.  They  all  had  their 
little  sails  expanded,  and  were  steering  in  the  same  direction 
as  our  ship.    Their  sail  is  a  thin,  semi-transparent  membrane, 


NORTHWEST    COAST    OF   AMERICA.  225 

extending  diagonally  from  one  side  of  the  animal  to  the  other. 
When  examined  in  a  bucket  of  water  in  the  open  air,  it  ap- 
peared to  be  almost  white,  but  in  certain  lights,  and  in  its 
native  element,  its  edges  are  tinged  by  the  most  brilliant  blue 
and  crimson  reflections.  From  the  body  are  suspended  numer- 
ous hair-like  tentacula,  or  feelers,  that  are  constantly  engaged 
in  entangling  the  food  upon  which  the  animal  lives.  It  was 
an  interesting  sight  to  see  these  delicate  little  creatures  mount- 
ing securely  over  the  lofty  billows,  though  a  brisk  breeze  was 
carrying  us  along  at  the  rate  of  eight  or  nine  knots  an  hour. 

On  the  morning  of  the  28th  of  April  we  made  Cape  Disap- 
pointment, off  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  Riyer,  but,  as  the 
weather  was  boisterous,  and  the  sea  broke  with  great  violence 
on  the  bar,  we  did  not  deem  it  prudent  to  attempt  to  enter  the 
river.  Next  morning  the  prospects  of  getting  in  were  no 
better;  indeed,  the  chances  seemed  to  be  still  more  against 
us,  as  the  wind  during  the  night  had  hauled  round  to  the 
southward  and  westward  with  increased  strength ;  we  there- 
fore concluded  to  stand  for  Puget  Sound,  to  the  northward. 
About  10  A.  M.  on  the  30th,  the  "look-outs"  reported 
"  breakers  a-head"  ;  immediately  all  hands  were  called,  and 
the  ship  was  brought  by  the  wind.  After  standing  a  few 
minutes  on  this  course  the  weather  cleared,  and  we  discovered 
Destruction  Rocks  not  more  than  half  a  mile  off,  and  exactly  in 
the  direction  where  the  breakers  had  been  reported  to  be.  It 
was  in  fact  a  very  narrow  escape  from  shipwreck  and  certain 
destruction,  for  even  if  we  had  succeeded  in  getting  ashore,  we 
should  in  all  probability  have  been  murdered  by  the  savage 
natives.  A  few  years  ago  a  Russian  brig  was  wrecked  near 
the  same  place,  the  vessel  went  to  pieces,  but  the  crew  got 
safely  on  shore.  They  were  immediately  attacked  by  the 
natives  and  massacred.     Another  time  they  attacked  the  boat 


226  NORTHWEST    COAST    OF    AMERICA. 

of  an  American  vessel  that  was  engaged  in  the  fur-trade,  and 
killed  several  of  the  crew.  The  savages  pretended  at  first 
that  they  had  come  to  trade.  Our  pilot,  who  has  been  much 
among  them,  also  represents  them  as  being  a  treacherous  and 
savage  set. 

This  circumstance  goes  to  show  that  we  must  have  been 
under  the  influence  of  a  strong  current  setting  to  the  eastward, 
for  we  had  been  steering  all  the  preceding  night  northwest,  a 
course  which  gave  the  rocks  a  berth  of  between  thirty  and 
forty  miles. 

At  3  P.  M.  we  passed  between  the  two  outer  Flattery 
Rocks,  carrying  ten  fathoms  all  the  way  through,  and  between 
4  and  5  o'clock  passed  Cape  Flattery  proper. 

We  now  sailed  close  along  the  starboard-shore,  which  gave 
us  an  opportunity  of  forming  some  idea  of  it.  A  chain  of 
small  islands  and  rocks  run  parallel  with  it  some  eight  or  ten 
miles  after  passing  the  Cape.  It  had  but  little  beach,  became 
high  and  broken  in  the  interior,  and  was  covered  with  a  dense 
forest,  apparently  composed  of  the  fir-tree. 

A  little  before  sunset  several  canoes  put  off  from  a  small 
bay  and  pulled  toward  us,  evidently  with  the  intention  of 
paying  us  a  visit,  but  we  had  no  time  to  wait  for  them  to  get 
along-side,  and  after  following  us  some  time  they  turned  back. 
In  two  of  the  canoes  we  observed  several  women,  who  seemed 
to  take  as  active  a  share  in  the  labors  of  the  paddle  as  the 
men.  They  were  all  dressed  in  skins  and  blankets,  and  their 
heads  were  covered  with  a  green-looking  straw-hat  of  a  conical 
form,  with  a  very  broad  base,  much  resembling  those  which 
the  Chinese  are  represented  in  pictures  as  wearing. 

The  weather  during  the  night  was  very  disagreeable. 

May  1st.  The  weather  continues  cold  and  rainy.  The 
shore  we  have  passed  to-day  has  been  divided  into  steep  chfis 


NORTHWEST    COAST    OF    AMERICA.  227 

and  heads,  with  intermediate  beaches.  At  9  A.  M.  a  large 
canoe,  paddled  by  nine  Indians,  boarded  us.  They  were  all 
small  in  stature,  and  far  from  being  good-looking,  having 
broad,  flat  faces,  with  high  cheek-bones  and  low  foreheads. 
They  were  also  very  dirty  about  their  persons,  so  much  so 
that  it  was  difiicult  to  make  out  the  color  of  their  skin.  One 
of  them  was  dressed  in  corduroy  pantaloons,  and  a  jacket 
made  of  scarlet  cloth,  and  could  speak  a  httle  English.  Their 
own  language  was  harsh  and  disagreeable,  seeming  to  be  made 
up  principally  of  gutterals,  and  the  sounds  cluch  and  click 
They  wore  as  ornaments  a  small  silver  tube  stuck  through 
the  partition  of  the  nose,  and  small  brass  bells  suspended 
around  the  rim  of  their  ears.  They  had  with  them  some  eight 
or  ten  otter  skins,  but  were  unwilling  to  sell  them.  It 
seemed  as  though  they  had  come  merely  to  look  at  the  ship, 
she  being  the  largest  they  had  ever  seen.  They  remained  on 
board  several  hours  and  then  went  along-side  the  "  Porpoise." 
May  2d.  This  morning  another  canoe,  manned  by  seven 
men  and  one  squaw,  boarded  us.  They  brought  with  them 
some  fish,  w^hich  they  readily  exchanged  for  a  few  pipes  and 
some  tobacco.  The  woman  was  seated  in  the  bow  of  the 
canoe,  and  was  not  permitted  by  the  men  to  come  on  board. 
At  3.30  P.  M.  we  passed  Point  Dungenness,  a  low,  woody 
tongue  of  land.  After  passing  this  point,  our  progress  was 
greatly  impeded  by  a  very  strong  ebb-tide.  It  run  between 
three  and  four  miles  an  hour.  We  observed  as  we  sailed 
along  this  part  of  the  coast  a  great  number  of  tall  poles,  which 
our  pilot  informed  me,  were  stuck  up  by  the  Indians  for  the 
purpose  of  suspending  nets  to  them,  in  which  they  take  geese 
and  other  wild  fowl  that  frequent  these  shores  at  certain  sea- 
sons of  the  year.  About  sunset  we  reached  Port  Discovery, 
and  anchored  for  the  night.     Numbers  of  men,  women  and 


228  NORTHWEST    COAST    OF    AMERICA. 

children  came  running  down  to  the  beach  as  soon  as  we  made 
our  entrance,  and  some  of  them  got  into  their  canoes  and  came 
along-side.  They  were  no  better  looking  nor  more  cleanly  than 
those  we  had  before  seen,  and  we  were  very  glad  to  purchase 
the  fish  they  brought  for  sale,  in  order  to  get  them  out  of  the 
ship  as  soon  as  possible. 

This  harbor  is  a  superb  one,  being  easy  of  access,  free  from 
rocks  or  shoals,  eight  miles  long,  and  from  one  and  a  half  to 
two  miles  wide — possessing  the  very  best  kind  of  bottom,  and 
with  sufficient  depth  of  water  for  the  largest  vessel  to  lay 
within  two  hundred  yards  of  the  shore.  The  country  in  the 
vicinity  is  not  mou,ntainous,  but  rises  into  hills  of  moderate 
elevation,  covered  all  over  with  pine  and  spruce  trees  of  the 
largest  dimensions. 

May  3d.  The  following  General  Order  was  issued  this 
afternoon,  and  passed  round  to  be  read  : — 

"  The  undersigned  informs  the  officers  and  crews  under  his 
command,  that  the  duties  upon  which  they  are  about  to  enter, 
will  necessarily  bring  them  at  times  in  contact  with  the 
savage  and  treacherous  inhabitants  of  this  coast,  and  he  there- 
fore feels  it  his  duty,  to  enjoin  upon  them  the  necessity  of 
unceasing  caution,  and  a  restrictive  and  mild  system  in  all 
their  intercourse  with  them. 

"  In  my  General  Orders,  of  July  13th,  1839,  my  views  are 
expressed  fully,  respecting  our  intercourse  with  savages,  and  I 
expect  that  the  instructions  therein  contained,  will  be  strictly 
regarded. 

"  With  a  knowledge  that  many  of  the  misfortunes  that  have 
befallen  previous  voyagers  on  this  coast,  have  arisen  from  an 
unrestrained  and  unguarded  intei-course  with  the  natives,  he 
deems  it  important  to  order  officers  in  charge  of  boats,  and 


NORTHWEST    COAST   OF    AMERICA.  229 

those  having  men  under  their  direction,  to  make  it  their  espe- 
cial duty  to  govern  them  so  as  to  avoid  any  disputes,  or  mal- 
treatment of  the  Indians ;  and  that  force  is  never  to  be 
resorted  to,  but  in  cases  of  self-defence. 

"No  officer  or  man  will  be  allowed  to  visit  the  shore, 
without  arms ;  and  boats'  crews  upon  surveying,  or  other 
duties,  will  be  furnished  with  such  as  are  necessary  for  their 
protection. 

"  United  States  ship  '  Vincennes,' 

"  Charles  Wilkes." 

We  had  a  grand  feast  to-day,  on  fish  and  clams,  which  we 
bought  from  the  natives  along-side.  The  latter  are  not  so 
large  as  those  found  on  our  own  coast,  but  they  are  more 
tender,  and  much  better  flavored.  They  may  be  obtained  in 
any  quantities,  any  where  along  the  beach.  Th^  fish  were  of 
the  salmon  and  cod  kinds.  It  is  yet  rather  too  early  in  the 
season  for  salmon,  but  they  are  very  fine  notwithstanding,  es- 
pecially when  broiled. 

May  5th.  Several  of  the  boats  have  been  employed  to-day 
in  surveying  the  harbor. 

In  the  forenoon  I  visited  the  shore.  The  beach  abreast  the 
ship  was  covered  with  Indian  huts  ;  they  were  constructed  in 
the  rudest  manner  imaginable,  consisting  of  a  few  mats  and 
rushes  spread  out  on  poles,  and  ofiering  little  or  no  protection 
against  either  the  wind  or  rain.  The  fire  was  kindled  upon 
the  ground  near  the  centre,  and  the  interior  of  the  building 
was  filled  with  smoke.  I  was  almost  blinded  by  venturing 
into  one  of  them,  and  was  very  glad  to  get  out  again  into  the 
open  air.  A  mat  or  two  spread  on  the  ground  near  the  fire, 
was  used  for  sitting  and  sleeping  upon.  This  was  the  only 
furniture  to  be  seen,  and  the  only  article  which  could  conduce 


230  NORTHWEST    COAST    OF    AMERICA. 

to  comfort.  The  owners  of  these  wretched  dwellings  called 
themselves  Clalams,  and  were  the  most  singular  looking  people 
we  had  ever  seen.  The  top  of  their  heads  was  as  flat  as  a 
board.  This  was  caused  by  compression  when  they  were  very 
young.  I  was  surprised  to  find  them  so  poorly  clad,  in  weather 
that  was  almost  cold  enough  to  freeze  water ;  none  had  on 
more  than  one  blanket,  and  some  of  them  were  to  be  seen 
going  about  in  a  state  of  perfect  nudity.  I  never  before  had 
seen  a  people  who  seemed  to  have  so  little  shame. 

The  children  seemed  to  give  their  mothers  but  little  trouble  ; 
the  infants  were  tied  to  a  piece  of  bark  which  hung  to  a  pole, 
and  was  kept  in  motion  by  a  string  fastened  to  the  toe  of  the 
mother.     The  little  creatures  were  perfectly  naked. 

I  observed  the  men  were  well  supplied  with  muskets,  fowl- 
ing pieces,  and  knives,  which  they  procure  from  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company  in  exchange  for  furs.  They  had  also  bows  and 
arrows,  and  the  latter  were  pointed  with  iron. 

The  roofs  and  sides  of  many  of  the  huts  were  hung  with  fish, 
strung  on  poles  or  sticks.  There  can  be  no  want  of  food 
here,  as  the  w^aters  abound  with  excellent  fish,  and  the  forest 
with  game  of  all  kinds.  Deer  and  bear-tracks  are  to  be  seen 
in  every  direction,  and  the  natives  have  only  to  go  a  few 
yards  from  their  huts,  to  kill  enough  to  feed  on  for  weeks 
together. 

I  spent  several  hours  in  wandering  about  in  the  neighboring 
woods.  They  were  composed  almost  exclusively  of  pines, 
many  of  which  were  of  immense  diameter  and  height.  I  mea- 
sured several  that  were  twenty- five  feet  in  circumference,  and 
upwards  of  two  hundred  feet  in  height.  The  underbrush  was 
not  thick,  and  the  principal  impediment  to  clear  walking  was  the 
vast  number  of  fallen  trees,  over  which  I  was  obliged  to  climb. 
I  saw  numerous  tracks  of  quadrupeds  and  one  or  two  flocks  of 


NORTHWEST    COAST  OF    AMERICA.  231 

wild  geese.  The  natives  say  the  proper  time  for  killing  deer 
is  early  in  the  morning,  at  which  time  they  resort  to  the 
springs  to  drink.  Occasionally  I  encountered  extensive 
thickets  of  rose-bushes,  through  which  some  large  animal  ap- 
peared but  recently  to  have  passed. 

On  returning  to  the  beach  I  passed  a  burial-ground.  It 
was  surrounded  with  stakes  to  prevent  the  wild  beasts  from 
entering  it,  and  the  corpses  instead  of  being  interred  were 
wrapped  in  mats,  and  placed  upon  the  ground  in  a  sitting 
posture. 

May  6th.  Having  completed  the  survey  of  the  harbor,  we 
again  spread  our  sails  to  the  breeze  and  stood  out  into  the 
Sound,  followed  by  a  great  number  of  canoes,  which  had  for 
sale  fish,  clams,  and  venison.  We  laid  in  a  large  supply  of 
these  ;  and  the  articles  preferred  in  exchange  were,  as  usual, 
powder,  fish-hooks,  clothing,  and  paint.  The  fish  were  the 
largest  we  had  seen  of  the  kind — some  of  the  cod  weighing  be- 
tween forty  and  fifty  pounds.  Towards  evening  the  wind 
became  so  light  we  could  not  stem  the  tide,  and  so  we  stood 
into  Port  Townsend,  and  anchored  in  ten  fathoms  water.  This 
is  another  excellent  harbor. 

A  short  walk  from  the  beach  here  brings  you  to  a  beautiful 
lawn,  ornamented  with  a  great  variety  of  pretty  flowers.  It 
extends  several  miles  into  the  interior,  and  abounds  in  small 
lakes,  around  which  hovered  vast  numbers  of  ducks  and  geese. 
The  wood  which  skirts  the  green  is  composed  of  the  same  kind 
of  trees  as  that  about  Port  Discovery. 

The  Indians  inhabiting  the  surrounding  shores  are  clad  in 
blankets  and  skins  of  wild  beasts,  and  appear  friendly.  They 
are  passionately  fond  of  smoking,  and  will  exchange  anything 
they  have  for  pipes  and  tobacco.  The  principal  ornament 
worn  by  the  women  is  a  round  piece  of  white  bone,  of  about 


282  NORTHWEST    COAST    OF    AMERICA. 

two  inches  in  length  stuck  through  the  cartilage  of  their 
noses. 

May  7th.  At  1  P.  M.  we  proceeded  to  get  under-way,  but 
were  obliged  to  come- to  again  soon  after  on  account  of  light 
variable  winds.  Mounts  Reinier  and  Baker  are  visible  from 
this  point.  They  both  rise  to  a  great  altitude,  and  their  sum- 
mits are  covered  with  perpetual  snows.  There  were  no  natives 
to  be  seen  at  this  place,  nor  any  evidences  of  any  ever  having 
been  here.  The  weather  during  the  night  was  boisterous, 
and  as  the  anchorage  is  not  well  protected,  the  ship  rolled 
heavily,  so  much  so  that  we  could  scarcely  walk  the  decks. 

May  8th.  Early  in  the  morning  we  sent  the  boats  out  to 
survey,  although  the  weather  w^as  by  no  rpeans  favorable  for 
such  duties.  Several  of  the  boats  narrowly  escaped  being 
swamped.  We  finished  about  noon,  when  we  made  sail  and 
beat  to  the  southward  and  eastward  along  Admiralty  Sound, 
with  a  fresh  breeze  and  a  heavy  head-sea  till  about  7  P.  M., 
when  we  again  let-go  our  anchor  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of 
the  shore.  The  water  here  was  deep,  and  the  coast  on  either 
hand  bold  and  rugged,  and  apparently  uninhabited.  We 
named  this  place  Pilot  Cone,  from  the  circumstance  of  our 
receiving  there  two  pilots  in  the  employ  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  to  take  the  Squadron  up  to  Nisqually. 

May  10th.  We  have  enjoyed  beautiful  weather  all  this  day, 
and  I  cannot  conceive  a  more  magnificent  picture  than  the 
Mountains  Rainier  and  Olympus  presented  as  the  rising  sun 
illumined  their  lofty  peaks,  and  dispersed  the  mists  that  still 
floated  in  fleecy  clouds  over  the  tranquil  valleys  around  their 
bases.  The  altitude  of  the  latter  mountain  is  stated  to  be 
eight  thousand  feet.  At  2.30  P.  M.  we  got  under-way.  The 
Sound  now  became  quite  narrow,  being  in  some  places  not 
more  than  half  a  mile  wide.     Some  Indians  were  observed 


NORTHWEST    COAST    OF    AMERICA.  233 

to  day,  followed  by  their  dogs,  which  were  small,  and  had  a 
head  and  ears  strongly  resembling  those  of  the  wolf.  At 
sunset  we  came-to  under  the  western  shore  to  wait  for  day-light. 
It  was  a  rich  treat  to  behold  the  sublime  prospect  around 
us  through  all  its  transitions  of  sunshine — purple  hues,  mellow 
twilight,  and  evening  shades — until  there  was  nothing  else  to 
be  seen  but  the  dark  masses  of  Rainier  and  Olympus,  uplift- 
ing themselves  against  the  clear  and  starry  skies  of  this  region. 

May  11th.  At  an  early  hour  we  were  out  surveying  as 
usual.  When  finished  we  again  spread  our  canvas,  and  made 
the  best  of  our  way  for  Nisqually,  distant  about  twelve  miles. 
After  running  about  an  hour  we  reached  the  narrowest  part  of 
the  Sound,  which,  at  this  point  was  less  than  400  yards  wide  ;  the 
shores  on  either  side  were  high  and  precipitous,  and  the  tide  run 
like  a  sluice.  Just  before  we  arrived  at  the  narrows,  above 
described,  we  passed  on  our  left  what  appeared  to  be  a  large 
arm  of  the  Sound.  We  also  passed  several  small  conical- 
shaped  islands.  About  dusk  we  at  length  reached  our  port,  and 
anchored  in  twenty-two  fathoms  water.  We  found  here  a 
steamer  belonging  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  kept  to 
run  about  the  coast  to  collect  furs  from  the  Indians.  The 
Sound  is  here  divided  into  a  great  number  of  arms,  some  a 
mile  or  two  wide,and  apparently  thirty  or  forty  miles  in  length. 

May  12t]i.  Hauled-in  close  to  the  shore  and  moored  ship, 
as  we  are  to  remain  here  some  weeks,  and  perhaps  months. 
Sent  all  the  scientific  instruments  to  the  Observatory,  except 
the  pendulum.  Lieutenant  Johnson  has  been  temporarily 
detached  from  the  ''  Porpoise,"  and  ordered  to  take  charge  of 
a  party  that  is  to  examine  the  interior.  Received  orders  to 
hold  myself  in  readiness  to  proceed  with  Lieutenant  Case  to 
Hood's  Canal,  for  the  purpose  of  surveying  the  same.  In  the 
afternoon  a  large  number  of  natives  came  on  board,  among 


234  NORTHWEST    COAST    OF    AMERICA. 

them  were  some  women,  who  were  very  good-looking  and  bet- 
ter dressed  than  any  we  have  before  seen.  They  came  to  ex- 
change some  moccasins  and  baskets  for  red  paint  and  looking 
glasses.  The  moccasins  were  neatly  and  even  tastefully 
made,  and  found  ready  market  among  the  officers,  who  wished 
to  preserve  them  as  specimens  of  Indian  ingenuity  and  taste. 

July  3d.  We  reported  our  return  from  the  so-called  Hood's 
Canal,  having  been  absent  from  the  ship  upwards  of  three 
weeks ;  it  was  found  to  be  an  arm  of  Puget  Sound.  Its 
shores  are  nowhere  more  than  one  hundred  feet  in  height,  and 
are  formed  of  stratified  clay,  with  a  light  gravelly  soil,  covered 
with  pine  and  spruce.  At  Tskutska  Point  the  Canal  divides 
into  two  branches — one  taking  a  direction  nearly  northerly, 
while  the  other  pursues  its  course  to  the  southwest.  At  the 
southern  extremity  of  the  canal  there  is  an  extensive  inlet, 
called  "  Black  Creek,"  by  which  the  Indians  communicate 
with  the  Columbia  and  Chickelees  Rivers.  The  water  in  the 
centre  of  the  canal  is  too  deep  for  anchorage,  but  there  are 
several  good  harbors,  of  all  of  which  surveys  were  made. 

We  fell  in  with  Indians  almost  every  day,  and  had  con- 
siderable intercourse  with  them  in  the  way  of  trade — they  sup- 
plying us  with  venison  and  fish,  and  we  giving  them  in  ex- 
change powder,  fish-hooks,  red  paint,  and  cotton  handker- 
chiefs. The  venison,  in  particular,  was  sold  very  cheap — ^ve 
of  the  ordinary  musket  charges  of  powder  being  the  price  of  a 
whole  carcass. 

Though  these  Indians  seemed  to  understand  each  other, 
they  informed  us  that  they  belonged  to  different  tribes.  One 
party  called  themselves  Squamish,  another  Socomish,  and  a 
third  party  Toandos.  The  Squamish  appeared  to  be  the  most 
numerous,  and,  according  to  their  own  account,  could  muster 
two  hundred  fighting  men.     The  Toandos  were  the  best- look- 


NORTHWEST    COAST    OF    AMI  RICA.  235 

iiig,  and  they  assured  us  that  they  inhabited  the  mountains, 
and  were  now  paying  a  visit  to  their  friends  the  Socomish. 
All  these  tribes,  in  their  habits  and  manner  of  living,  re- 
semble those  about  Nisqually.  On  leaving  the  ship  we  were 
warned  to  be  on  the  watch  for  them,  as  they  were  arrant 
thieves,  but  I  am  not  aware  that  they  ever  attempted  to  take 
anything  from  us,  except  one  of  the  eye-pieces  belonging  to  the 
Theodolite.  This  seemed  to  excite  their  attention  more  than 
anything  else  connected  with  the  expedition,  and  they  fre- 
quently asked  us  if  it  could  speak,  and  whether  it  had  not 
something  to  do  with  the  "  Great  Spirit."*  The  women  are 
not  very  good-looking,  and  the  whole  burden  of  domestic  occu- 
pation is  thrown  upon  them. 

They  have  no  permanent  settlements ;  and  there  were 
several  families  who  followed  us  wherever  we  went,  and  became 
familiar  with  some  of  the  sailors.  The  men  possess  muskets, 
spears,  and  bows,  and  arrows.  The  bows  are  short  and  small, 
but  have  great  elasticity,  and  when  in  their  hands  will  do 
good  execution. 

The  Canal  does  not  terminate  where  Vancouver's  charts 
w^ould  lead  one  to  suppose,  but  extends  ten  miles  further  to  the 
northward  and  eastward,  and  approaches  within  two  miles  of 
the  waters  of  the  Puget  Sound,  from  which  point  we  communi- 
cated with  the  "  Vincennes,"  the  second  week  out,  and  obtained 
a  fresh  supply  of  bread  and  other  provisions.  There  is  plenty 
of  fresh  water  along  the  shore,  and  we  found  several  streams 
large  enough  to  turn  mills.  Generally  speaking,  the  soil  is  not 
-    rich,  and  the  climate  is  similar  to  that  experienced  at  this  place. 

j '         ♦  The  eye-piece  was  finally  recovered  through  the  kindness  of  Mr.  Anderson,  the 
1        principal  agent  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  at  Nisqually,  by  threatening  the  tribe 

who  had  it,  the  Socomish,  with  the  destruction  of  their  villages  and  canoes,  if  they 

did  not  give  it  up  by  a  certain  day. 


286  NORTHWEST    COAST    OF    AMERICA. 

July  5th.  Yesterday  was  the  "  Glorious  Fourth,"  but 
being  also  Sunday,  it  was  very  properly  agreed  that  the  cele- 
bration should  be  postponed  until  to-day ;  accordingly,  at  an 
early  hour  this  morning,  all  was  bustle  and  preparation  on 
board  the  ship.  By  nine  o'clock  all  the  crew  were  mustered, 
in  clean  white  frocks  and  trowsers,  and  I  was  directed  to  take 
charge  of  them  for  the  day.  Soon  after  we  landed  abreast  of 
the  ship,  and  walked  up  to  the  Observatory.  Here  we  formed 
into  a  procession,  and  marched  off  with  drums  and  fifes  play- 
ing, and  the  Star-spangled  Banner  waving,  for  Fort  Nis- 
qually,  Vendovi  bringing  up  the  rear.  Vendovi  was  dressed 
"  a-la-Fejee,"  and  appeared  to  enjoy  the  occasion  quite  as 
much  as  any  one  present. 

On  arriving  abreast  of  the  fort  we  halted,  and  gave  three 
cheers,  which  were  promptly  returned  by  Mr.  Anderson  and 
people.  We  next  marched  to  a  piece  of  open  ground,  distant 
about  half  a  mile  from  the  fort.  This  was  the  place  chosen 
for  the  dinner  and  amusements.  There  were  a  great  many 
Indians  gathered  here,  looking  at  us  silently  and  with  much 
astonishment.  At  the  usual  time,  dinner  was  piped  by  the 
boatswain  and  his  mates,  and  we  all  repaired  to  partake  of  the 
ox  which  had  been  purchased  from  Mr.  Anderson,  and  bar- 
bacued  for  the  occasion. 

So  far,  everything  had  contributed  to  make  the  day  a  very 
pleasant  one.  But  as  there  can  be  no  such  thing  as  perfect 
happiness  in  this  sublunary  world  of  ours,  so  now  a  circum- 
stance occurred  which  for  a  time  threw  a  gloom  over  the 
party.  When  the  salute  was  fired,  one  of  the  men,  named 
Whitehorn,  had  his  arm  sericiisly  injured  by  the  sudden  explo- 
sion of  the  gun.  The  wound  was  dressed  as  well  as  it  could 
be,  and  a  litter  was  made,  on  which  he  was  conveyed  to  the 
ship,  under  the  charge  of  his  messmates. 


NORTHWEST    COAST    OF    AMERICA.  237 

When  dinner  was  over,  the  amusements  of  the  morning 
were  exchanged  for  the  excitement  of  horse-racing — the 
horses  having  been  engaged  from  the  Indians  for  that  pur- 
pose. Sailors  like  this  sport  better  than  almost  any  other, 
though  very  few  are  able  to  ride  well ;  but,  on  this  occasion, 
fortunately,  no  one  was  hurt,  although  a  good  many  were 
thrown  by  their  steeds. 

All  the  officers,  together  with  Captain  McNeil,  Dr.  Rich- 
ards, and  Mr.  Henderson,  dined  at  the  Observatory,  with 
Captain  Wilkes.  Captain  McNeil  and  Dr.  ftichards  are 
native  Americans.  The  Captain  came  here  a  number  of 
years  since,  and  engaged  in  the  fur  business,  and  succeeded  so 
well  in  it,  that  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  were  glad  to  buy 
him  off.  He  is  now  a  trader  in  the  Company's  service,  own- 
ing stock,  and  receiving  a  share  of  the  dividends.  He  is 
married  to  a  half-breed,  and  resides  in  the  fort,  with  Mr.  An- 
derson. 

Dr.  Richards  is  attached  to  the  Methodist  Mission,  and 
appears  to  be  a  kind,  gentlemanly  man  ;  his  residence  is 
situated  near  the  Observatory,  and  I  called  there,  in  the 
course  of  the  afternoon,  to  pay  my  respects  to  his  lady,  who 
received  me  very  kindly. 

The  doctor  informed  us  that  the  Mission  had  but  recently 
been  established,  and  so  far,  it  had  not  been  able  to  accom- 
plish much  ;  and  it  was  his  honest  opinion  that  it  never  would 
answer  the  expectations  of  its  friends  at  home. 

After  the  rejoicings  were  ended,  I  returned  the  men  on 
board  the  ship,  in  the  same  good  order  as  they  had  landed, 
and,  I  dare  say,  it  will  long  be  remembered  by  us  all,  as  one 
of  the  most  pleasant  celebrations  we  have  ever  experienced.' 

July  6th.  We  received,  this  morning,  a  visit  from  Dr. 
McLaughlin.     The  doctor  is  the  Chief  Factor  and  Ggvernor 


238  NORTHWEST    COAST    OF    AMERICA. 

of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  He  left  Vancouver  about  a 
week  since,  and  he  expressed  his  regrets  at  not  being  able  to 
reach  Nisqually  in  time  to  be  present  at  the  celebration  of  the 
Fourth  ;  he  lost  his  way,  when  about  a  hundred  miles  from  the 
fort.  He  is  a  tall,  dignified-looking  man,  with  a  fair  com- 
plexion, and  I  should  judge  his  age  to  be  nearly  seventy. 
He  is  of  Scotch  extraction,  but  by  birth  a  Canadian.  He 
has  been  in  the  employ  of  the  Company  upwards  of  forty 
years,  and  is  said  to  be  pre-eminently  fitted  for  the  situation 
he  occupies,  being  a  man  of  great  energy  of  character,  and 
much  talent. 

Captain  Wilkes  conducted  him  around  the  ship,  and  he 
seemed  much  pleased. 

On  his  leaving,  to  return  to  the  shore,  the  yards  were 
manned,  and  three  cheers  were  given  him,  in  a  manner  which 
showed  that  we  appreciated  his  kindness  towards  us;  they 
were  three  very  hearty  cheers. 

July  16th.  To-day,  Mr.  Johnson  and  party  returned  from 
the  interior.  They  speak  favorably  of  the  country  passed 
over,  and  of  the  Indians  they  fell  in  with.  At  a  place  called 
Chimikane,  they  found  two  missionaries,  Messrs.  Walker 
and  Eel,  whose  labors  had  been  attended  with  remarkable 
success.  Among  other  duties,  they  had  taught  the  Indians 
the  art  of  cultivation,  and  many  of  them  now  subsist  entirely 
on  the  produce  which  they  raise  on  their  lands. 

As  nothing  has  yet  been  heard  from  the  "  Peacock,"  which, 
on  leaving  the  Sandwich  Islands,  was  ordered  to  visit  the 
King's  Mill  Group,  and  then  meet  the  rest  of  the  squadron 
at  the  Columbia  River,  fears  are  entertained  by  many,  that 
she  has  met  with  some  serious  accident. 


MAKING    ARRANGEMENTS.  239 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

FROM  NISQUALLY  TO  COLUMBIA  RIVER,  BY  LAND. 

July  17th.  I  received  orders  to-day,  to  join  Mr.  Eld  in 
an  expedition,  which  has  for  its  object,  the  -  exploration  and 
survey  of  Chickelees  River  and  Grey's  Harbor.  These 
orders  came  rather  unexpectedly,  and  at  a  very  late  hour. 
The  ship  was  already  under- way,  and  I  was  at  my  station, 
when  I  received  them.  It  seems,  that  when  the  expedition 
was  first  planned  by  Captain  Wilkes,  he  designed  having  Lieu- 
tenant Johnson  take  charge  of  it,  and  Mr.  Eld  to  accompany 
him  as  his  assistant ;  but  Mr.  Johnson  found  fault  with  his 
written  instructions,  whereupon  Captain  Wilkes  took  the  com- 
mand from  him,  and  gave  it  to  Mr.  Eld,  and  I  am  ordered 
to  fill  Mr.  Eld's  former  place. 

As  soon  as  I  was  able  to  get  together  my  instruments  and 
bedding,  we  shoved  ofi*  from  the  ship,  and  landed  on  the  beach 
at  the  foot  of  Nisqually  Hill,  where  we  pitched  our  tents  for 
the  night,  as  it  was  almost  sunset  before  we  left  the  vessel, 
and  we  had  considerable  to  do  before  we  could  proceed  on  our 
journey.  Among  other  things,  it  was  absolutely  necessary 
we  should  see  Mr.  Anderson,  as  he  was  to  supply  us  with  the 
"  trade"  which  we  required,  to  make  our  purchases  from  the 
Indians.  Indeed,  our  instructions  do  not  require  us  to  leave 
Nisqually  before  the  19th  instant.  The  following  are  the 
other  individuals  composing  the  party : — Mr.  Brackenridge, 
assistant    botanist,   sergeant    Stearns,   two  marines,   named 


240  MAKING   ARRANGEMENTS. 

Dismond  and  Rogers,  two  sailors  by  the  names  of  Brooks  and 
Ford,  and  a  half-breed  boy,  named  Joseph,  who  is  to  act  as 
interpreter. 

About  the  time  we  reached  the  shore,  we  saw  the  "  Vin- 
cennes"*  weigh  her  anchor,  and  stand  down  the  Sound ;  the 
breeze  was  favorable,  and  having  all  sails  set,  we  soon  lost 
sight  of  her. 

8  P.  M.,  we  have  just  seen  a  Squaw  Chief,  of  the  Sachal 
tribe,  who  has  promised  to  meet  us  at  the  first  "  Portage," 
and  act  as  our  guide  to  the  Sachal  River.     , 

At  early  daylight  Mr.  Eld  and  myself  walked  up  to  the 
fort,  and  handed  Mr.  Anderson  a  list  of  the  articles  of  trade 
required,  which  he  at  once  directed  to  be  put  up,  and  con- 
veyed to  our  tents.  After  this  we  went,  by  invitation,  on 
board  the  Company's  schooner,  and  breakfasted  with  her  com- 
mander. Captain  Scarborough,  whom  we  found  to  be  a  very 
intelligent  man,  and  from  whom  we  received  a  good  deal  of 
information,  respecting  the  Company's  affairs.  From  the 
schooner,  we  returned  to  Nisqually,  to  take  leave  of  Mr.  An- 
derson and  Captain  McNeil ;  after  which,  we  repaired  to  the 
beach,  caused  the  tents  to  be  struck,  and  in  a  few  minutes 
more  we  were  on  our  way  to  the  first  Portage.  We  had  not 
proceeded  far,  however,  before  we  discovered  that  both  our 
canoes  were  leaking  in  all  directions,  and  in  order  to  prevent 
their  being  swamped,  it  was  necessary  to  keep  one  man  in 
each,  constantly  bailing.  Everything  fore  and  aft  was  wet 
through,  and  the  bread  and  flour  were  almost  ruined.  Owing 
to  this  circumstance,  which  of  course,  checked  our  progress, 
we  have  not  been  able  to  reach  the  first  Portage  to-day,  as  we 
had  hoped  doing  when  we  first  set  out. 

It  is  not  very  probable  that  we  shall  have  occasion  again,  to 

*  She  left  for  San  Francisco,  California. 


OBSEBVATIONS    ON    NISQUALLY.  241 

return  to  Nisqually.  I  will,  therefore,  here  offer  all  the  addi- 
tional observations  which  I  have  to  make,  regarding  it.  Its 
situation  is  a  bad  one  for  trade,  as  the  anchorage  is  so  small 
that  only  a  few  vessels  can  be  accommodated  within  a  proper 
distance  from  the  shore ;  and  the  long  hill  which  it  is  neces- 
sary to  ascend,  in  order  to  get  to  the  fort,  is  a  serious  objec- 
tion to  its  becoming  a  place  of  deposit  for  merchandize,  as  it 
would  very  much  increase  the  labor  and  expense  of  transporta- 
tion. Many  better  places  than  Nisqually  could  be  found,  for 
a  location  of  a  town  in  the  same  part  of  the  Sound,  and  it  is  a 
matter  of  wonder  to  me,  why  they  were  not  preferred. 

The  fort  is  constructed  of  pickets,  inclosing  an  area  of 
about  two  hundred  an3  fifty  feet  square,  with  four  corner  bas- 
tions. Within  this  space  are  the  Agent's  stores,  and  about 
half-a-dozen  log-houses.  The  fort,  when  constructed,  was 
thought  to  be  large  enough,  but  since  it  has  become  an  agri- 
cultural post,  as  well  as  a  trading  one,  it  is  found  too  small, 
and  Mr.  Anderson  thought  it  would  be  enlarged  in  the  course 
of  a  year  or  two.  I  was  in  the  garden  several  times,  and 
found  it  to  be  under  good  cultivation  ;  the  onions,  turnips, 
peas,  &c.,  &c.,  all  looked  very  thriving. 

The  surrounding  country  is  said  to  be  very  healthy,  and 
the  winter  to  be  mild  and  of  short  duration.  The  Indians  in 
the  neighborhood  are  not  numerous,  perhaps  the  whole  num- 
ber not  exceeding  three  hundred.  They  belong  to  the  tribes 
who  compress  their  heads,  and  they  are  vicious  and  exceed- 
ingly lazy ;  I  have  frequently  gone  into  their  tents  in  the 
middle  of  the  day,  and  found  every  member  of  the  family 
asleep.  They  are  also  inveterate  ga-mblers,  carrying  the  vice 
to  the  extent  of  staking  their  wives  and  children,  and  even 
themselves,  for  years  of  slavery !  their  clothing  consists  of  a 
blanket,  a  pair  c/f  skin  breeches,  and  moccasins. 


^42  OBSERVATIONS  ON  NISQUALLY^ 

They  are  all  of  wandering  habits,  and  change  their  resi- 
dences in  search  of  their  food,  which  consist,  principally,  of 
fish  and  clams ;  the  latter  may  be  seen  in  great  quantities  in 
their  tents,  strung  on  sticks,  upon  which  they  have  been  pre- 
served by  smoking  and  drying.  They  likewise  store  up  for 
winter  use  the  camass  root  and  smoked  salmon ;  but  generally, 
however,  they  are  not  well  fed,  as  they  are  too  lazy  to  exert 
themselves  for  a  supply  of  food,  unless  they  are  in  actual  want. 

In  the  winter  several  families  hve  together  in  lodges  con- 
structed of  plank ;  when  warm  weather  returns  they  break 
up,  and  resort  in  small  parties  to  those  places  where  they  can 
obtain  their  food  most  easily.  They  all  understand  the  Che- 
nook  language,  but  when  speaking  to  eacL  other,  they  use  a  lan- 
guage which  they  call  their  own,  and  which  differs  materially 
from  the  Chenook. 

The  mean  temperature  during  our  stay  was  found  to  be  59°, 
and  during  tte  same  period,  the  barometer  averaged  29.30 
inches. 

The  following  morning,  at  the  request  of  Mr.  '^Eld,  I  pro- 
ceeded to  the  portage,  for  the  purpose  of  seeing  the  Chief  Squaw 
before  mentioned,  and  making  arrangements  with  her  for 
Indians  and  horses  to  carry  the  party  across  the  Portage.  I 
arrived  there  after  a  pull  of  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  and  shortly 
after  saw  an  Indian,  who  informed  me  that  he  had  been  sent 
by  the  chief  woman  to  say,  that  she  could  not  aflford  us  the 
promised  assistance  that  day,  but  would  to-morrow  without 
fail.  I  requested  the  Indian  to  show  me  to  her  house,  as  I 
imagined  that  by  seeing  her  in  person  I  could  persuade  her  to 
change  her  mind,  but  he  assured  me  that  she  was  absent,  and 
would  not  return  home  until  late  in  the  evening.  It  was  vex- 
atious to  meet  with  so  many  impediments  at  the  very  outset 
of  the  expedition 


FROM    NlSQUALLY    TO    COLUMBIA    RIVER.  243 

On  the  following  day  we  made  an  early  start,  and  by  8 
o'clock  we  reached  the  Portage.  The  chief  woman  was  there 
awaiting  us,  with  her  horses,  five  in  number  ;  they  were  large 
fine-looking  animals,  and  in  excellent  condition,  which  is  not 
generally  the  case  with  Indian  horses.  She  also  brought  with 
her  ten  men,  who  were  to  assist  in  carrying  the  small  canoe. 
The  large  one,  she  declared,  was  too  heavy  to  transport,  and 
if  we  would  let  her  have  it,  she  would  give  us  a  smaller  one 
in  return,  when  we  arrived  at  the  Sachal  River,  which  offer  we 
very  thankfully  accepted.  In  less  than  an  hour  all  the  ar- 
rangements had  been  completed,  and  we  proceeded  on  our 
journey,  the  Indians  bringing  up  the  rear. 

It  is  due  to  the  Chief  Squaw  to  say,  that  we  owe  this  dis- 
patch principally  to  her ;  though  her  husband  was  present, 
she  made  all  the  bargains,  and  gave  the  Indians  their  direc- 
tions. She  is  a  woman  of  great  energy  of  character,  and 
exercises  greater  authority  over  those  around  her  than  any 
man  chief  I  have  met  with  since  I  have  been  in  the  country. 
She  is  about  fifty  years  of  age,  and  dresses  very  neatly  for  an 
Indian  woman. 

We  were  three  hours  in  accomplishing  the  Portage.  It  is 
between  four  and  five  miles  long,  over  a  gently  rising  country 
thickly  covered  with  maple  and  spruce  trees.  The  soil  is  com- 
posed of  vegetable  mould,  and  seemed  to  be  entirely  free  from 
rocks  or  stones. 

Soon  after  passing  the  Portage,  we  came  to  a  small  lake, 
called  by  the  Indians,  Sachal,  which  we  examined  and  found 
to  be  three  miles  in  circumference.  The  soil  around  it  was 
light  brown,  sandy  loam,  and  the  forest  extends  down  to  the 
water's  edge.  In  the  deepest  part  of  the  lake,  the  water 
appears  to  have  a  reddish  tinge,  but  on  examining  it  in  a  tum- 
bler, it  looked  as  clear  as  crystal.     The  Indians  informed  us, 


244  FROM    NISQUALLY    TO    COLUMBIA    RIVER. 

that  there  was  another  lake  to  the  northeast,  and  next  day 
Mr.  Eld  and  myself  set  out  tc  visit  it.  We  arrived  there 
after  a  walk  of  several  hours,  and  the  supposed  lake  proved 
so  insignificant  as  to  hardly  deserve  the  name  of  a  pond ; 
it  was  not  more  than  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards  in  diame- 
ter, nor  more  than  four  feet  deep,  and  was  overspread  with 
water  lilies. 

On  our  return  we  struck  the  tents,  and,  embarking  in  our 
canoes  on  Lake  Sachal,  we  steered  for  its  southern  end,  where 
we  entered  the  river  bearing  the  same  name.  We  now  made 
very  slow  progress,  owing  to  the  sinuosity  of  the  river  and  a 
variety  of  other  obstructions.  Every  few  minutes  we  either 
came  in  contact  with  drift-wood,  or  became  entangled  among 
the  branches  of  trees  and  bushes,  covering  the  banks  of  the 
river,  and  from  which  it  was  impossible  to  clear  ourselves 
otherwise  than  by  cutting  them  down  with  our  hatchets. 

We  lost  some  time  also  through  a  trick  played  us  by  two 
Indians,  who  had  been  following  us  for  some  time  in  a  small 
canoe,  and  were  anxious  to  pass  us.  Having  come  where  the 
river  branched  ofi",  we  were  unable  to  decide  which  way  our 
course  lay.  We  therefore  inquired  of  the  Indians  in  the 
canoe,,  and  they  motioned  to  us  to  turn  oflf  to  the  right ;  we  did 
as  they  directed  ;  but  after  pulling  for  more  than  an  hour,  we 
met  other  Indians,  who  assured  us  that  we  were  steering  the 
wrong  way,  and  offered  to  accompany  us  back  to  the  main 
stream,  and  put  us  on  the  proper  course,  an  ofier  which  we 
very  gladly  accepted.  We  did  not  at  first  like  the  idea  of 
being  thus  outwitted  by  savages,  but,  after  awhile,  when  all 
the  trouble  of  getting  right  again  was  over,  we  were  willing  to 
admit  that  it  was  a  capital  joke,  and  perhaps  had  as  many  a 
good  laugh  over  it  as  the  Indians  themselves. 

It  was  past  9  o'clo  ik  when  we  stopped  to  encamp,  and  still 


FROM   NISQUALLY    TO    COLUMBIA    RIVER.  246 

we  found  that  we  were  only  six  miles  from  where  we  entered 
the  river. 

At  an  early  hour  the  following  day  we  were  again  under- 
way. The  drift-wood  was  still  very  plentiful,  so  much  so, 
that  in  one  place  the  stream  was  completely  choked  up  by  it, 
and  we  were  compelled  to  land  and  carry  our  canoes  around 
the  place.  On  re-embarking,  we  used  poles  in  lieu  of  paddles, 
and  found  it  a  more  successful  mode  of  navigating  the  river. 
About  sunset  we  reached  the  town  belonging  to  the  Sachal 
tribe  of  Indians,  and  we  concluded  to  stop  and  spend  the  night 
with  them. 

After  supper,  Mr.  Eld  proceeded  to  visit  the  chief  of  the 
town.  He  received  him  kindly,  and  gave  him  considerable  in- 
formation respecting  his  own  people  and  other  Indian  tribes. 
Mr.  E.  was  desirous  that  he  should  accompany  us  down  the 
river,  but  he  declined,  giving,  as  a  reason,  that  we  should  soon 
meet  the  Chenooks  who  were  a  "  bad  people,"  and  he  was 
afraid  to  go  among  them.  According  to  the  chief's  account, 
the  Sachals  are  not  more  than  forty  in  number,  and  live  chiefly 
on  the  camass  root  and  salmon,  which  fish  they  capture  in 
great  quantities  in  the  rivers  Sachal  and  Chickelees.  They 
have  tents  similar  to  those  of  the  Indians  in  Puget  Sound,  but 
they  appeared  more  cleanly  and  industrious  than  the  tribes  of 
that  region. 

The  country  about  this  town  afforded  good  pasturage,  and 
we  observed  numbers  of  horses  grazing.  At  sunrise  we  re- 
sumed our  course.  The  river  now  had  more  breadth,  and  the 
country  on  each  side  became  quite  interesting ;  it  presented 
an  undulating  surface,  and  was  well  wooded.  In  the  afternoon 
we  were  compelled  to  make  two  long  portages,  in  order  to  pass 
portions  of  the  river  which  were  filled  with  rapids  and  bars. 
In  making  these  portages  we  observed  several  deserted  huts. 


246  FROM    NISQUALLY    TO    COLUMBIA    RIVER. 

About  5  P.  M.,  we  were  oertaken  and  passed  by  our  old 
friend,  the  Squaw  Chief,  and  her  husband.  She  informed  us 
that  they  were  going  to  pay  a  visit  to  a  sister,  who  was  residing 
on  the  banks  of  the  Chapel  River.  Her  canoe  was  large  and 
handsomely  painted,  and  was  paddled  by  five  slaves,  two  of 
whom  were  women.  The  following  night  was  a  pleasant  one, 
and  Mr.  Eld  and  I  availed  ourselves  of  it  to  obtain  observa- 
tions for  ascertaining  our  latitude  and  longitude.  ' 

The  next  day  (25th)  we  arrived  at  the  point  where  the 
Sachal  and  the  Chickelees  unite,  and  we  encamped  on  the 
banks  of  the  latter  stream.  The  country,  as  far  as  we  could 
see,  appeared  to  be  well  adapted  for  cultivation,  and  we 
observed  for  the  first  time  since  leaving  Sachal  Lake,  some 
large  stones  or  rocks. 

About  dusk  we  had  a  visit  from  some  Chenooks,  who  had 
encamped  three  or  four  miles  further  down  the  river.  We 
ha'd  attracted  their  attention,  they  said,  by  the  smoke  of  our 
fires,  and  at  first  supposed  us  to  be  some  of  their  own  people. 
They  were  all  young  and  rather  good-looking,  and  much  better 
dressed  than  any  Indians  we  had  yet  met  on  the  route. 

At  early  dawn  the  following  day,  Mr.  Eld,  with  sergeant 
Steams,  Brooks,  and  the  interpreter,  Joe,  set  out  to  examine 
the  Chalap,  a  branch  of  the  Chickelees.  They  were  absent 
two  days  and  a  part  of  a  third,  during  which  time  I  remained 
with  the  rest  of  the  party  at  the  same  encampment.  The 
weather  continued  pleasant,  and  Mr.  Brackenridge  made 
several  botanic  excursions.  He  spoke  favorably  of  the  country, 
and  thought  it  well  adapted  to  yield  crops  of  corn  and  wheat. 
In  the  course  of  the  second  day  several  Indian  families  visited 
us,  and  we  bought  from  them  a  quantity  of  smoked  salmon  and 
some  blackberries,  which  are  found  in  great  abundance  in  the 
neighboring  prairies.     These  Indians  behaved  very  properly, 


FROM    NISQUALLY    TO    COLUMBIA    RIVER.  247 

with  the  exception  of  two  girls,  who  could  not  have  been  more 
than  fourteen  years  of  age.  That  they  were  ladies  of  easy 
virtue,  no  one,  I  think,  could  deny,  who  had  an  opportunity  of 
witnessing  their  conduct. 

Shortly  after  Mr.  Eld  took  his  departure,  one  of  the  men 
who  remained  with  me  reported  that  he  had  just  come  in  from 
a  short  walk,  and  had  found  a  place  where  there  were  a  num- 
ber of  Indian  images.  I  repaired  to  the  place  with  him ;  it 
was  a  small  pine  grove,  situated  not  many  yards  distant  from 
the  encampment.  The  images  were  six  in  number,  cut  out  of 
plank,  and  painted  with  a  kind  of  red  pigment.  Some  of  the 
figures  had  two  heads,  one  above  the  other,  and  one  appeared 
to  be  intended  as  a  representation  of  the  Sun.  We  had  met 
with  nothing  of  the  kind  before,  and  we  could  learn  nothing 
now  on  the  subject  from  the  Indians  who  visited  us.  There  is 
reason,  however,  to  believe  that  they  had  something  to  do  with 
their  notions  on  religion.  Mr.  Eld  found  the  Sachal  to  be  a 
small  stream,  and  utterly  impenetrable  on  account  of  the 
bushes  and  a  kind  of  long  grass  overgrowing  it ;  he  was  therefore 
obliged  to  leave  his  canoe  and  take  horses.  His  guide  turned  out 
to  be  a  grand  scoundrel,  and  he  caught  him  in  the  act  of  steal- 
ing a  blanket  and  some  other  property,  belonging  to  the  party. 

On  the  first  day  out  he  met  some  Indians  of  the  Squamish 
tribe,  who  were  anxious  that  he  should  encamp  with  them,  but 
as  he  saw  enough  of  their  character  to  convince  him  that  they 
were  not  to  be  trusted,  he  declined  the  invitation,  and  went  on 
some  distance  further.  He  also  kept  strict  guard  during  the 
night.  He  passed  over  some  flats,  but,  generally  speaking, 
his  route  lay  through  a  rough,  hilly  country,  thickly  covered 
with  pine,  several  of  which  he  measured  and  found  to  be  up- 
wards of  two  hundred  feet  in  height,  and  from  twelve  to 
eighteen  in  circumference. 


248  FROM    NISQUALLY    TO    COLUMBIA    RIVER. 

On  Mr.  Eld's  return  to  the  camp,  the  whole  party  again 
embarked,  and  steered  down  the  Chickelees.  After  a  pull  of 
a  few  miles,  the  banks  of  the  river  on  both  sides  became  higher 
and  so  steep  as  to  render  it  quite  diflficult  to  land.  The  "  log" 
was  thrown  frequently  to  ascertain  the  strength  of  the  current, 
which  was  found  to  be  one-eighth  of  a  mile  per  hour.  We 
met  this  day  only  two  Indians.  They  were  Chickelees ;  yet, 
when  the  interpreter  asked  them  some  questions  in  their 
tongue,  respecting  the  navigation  of  the  river  further  down, 
they  pretended  not  to  understand  him,  and  their  whole  bearing 
went  to  show  that  they  were  not  kindly  disposed  toward  us. 

We  encamped  this  day  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  and 
could  hear  very  distinctly  the  sound  of  breakers,  a  circum- 
stance which  convinced  us  that  we  must  be  near  the  sea-coast. 

At  9  A.  M.  the  following  morning,  we  resumed  our  course 
down  the  river.  For  two  or  three  miles  the  channel  was 
nearly  of  the  same  breadth  as  it  was  on  the  preceding  day, 
but  after  that  it  became  several  hundred  feet  wider.  The 
country,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  see,  varied  in  character — that 
on  the  left  bank  was  low,  with  only  here  and  there  a  tree — 
that  on  the  right  bank,  high  and  well  wooded. 

At  length,  at  9.30  A.  M.  we  made  our  entrance  into  Grey's 
Harbor.  It  had  been  our  intention  to  encamp  on  the  south- 
eastern shore,  that  being  near  the  scene  of  our  operations ; 
but  the  wind,  sea,  and  tide,  all  three  being  against  us,  it  was 
impossible  to  make  any  progress.  Indeed,  my  own  canoe  came 
very  near  swamping,  several  times.  We  therefore  bore  away 
for  the  southwest,  or  lee  shore,  where  we  finally  succeeded  in 
effecting  a  landing,  but  found  it  an  exceedingly  uncomfortable 
position.  It  was  an  extensive  bed  of  brush,  roots,  and  half- 
decayed  logs,  that  had  been  thrown  up  by  the  tides.  Not- 
withstanding this,  we  wouli  have  been  compelled  to  remain 


FROM   NISQUALLY    TO    COLUMBIA    RIVER.  249 


there,  that  night  at  least,  had  it  not  been  for  the  Chief  Woman 
I  have  before  so  often  mentioned.  Knowing  all  the  while 
which  way  we  were  bound,  she  had  for  some  days  past  been 
looking  out  for  us,  and  now  that  she  beheld  us  in  this  pitiable 
situation,  she  hastened  to  our  assistance.  "  I  come,''  said 
she,  "  expressly  to  convey  you  to  the  opposite  shore,  where 
you  will  find  a  suitable  place  for  encampment,  and  also  be  less 
exposed  to  the  wind.''  We,  of  course,  accepted  the  offer, 
and  I  at  once  transferred  all  my  things  to  her  canoe,  and  Mr. 
Eld  did  the  same  with  a  portion  of  his  baggage  ;  with  this 
reinforcement,  and  partly  by  keeping  before  the  sea,  we  made 
very  good  weather,  and  at  last  reached  the  opposite  shore, 
where  we  found  quite  a  large  encampment  of  Chickelee 
Indians. 

So  soon  as  the  tents  were  erected,  Mr.  Eld  and  myself 
went  among  the  Indians,  for  the  express  purpose  of  nego- 
tiating for  a  canoe,  to  take  the  party  around  to  the  Columbia 
River.  After  going  about  some  time,  I  found  an  Indian,  who 
said  that  he  had  a  large  canoe,  which  he  would  sell  me,  and 
take  his  pay  at  Fort  George,  as  he  wanted  to  be  paid  in  blan- 
kets, an  article  which  we  had  not  with  us.  I  went  with  him 
to  examine  it ;  it  was  sufiiciently  capacious,  and  nearly  new, 
and  I  told  him  that  he  might  consider  the  bargain  closed,  and 
I  proceeded  to  give  directions  about  having  the  canoe  launched. 
It  had  hardly  reached  the  water,  however,  when  he  told  the 
interpreter  to  say  that  he  was  not  satisfied  with  my  terms, 
and  the  canoe  could  not  be  taken  away  unless  I  would  pay  for 
it  on  the  spot.  The  reason  why  I  could  not  pay  down,  was 
again  stated  to  him,  but  to  no  purpose ;  and  as  Mr.  Eld  had 
been  equally  unsuccessful  in  his  negotiations,  we  concluded  to 
let  the  matter  drop  for  that  day,  and  return  to  our  encamp- 
ment.    No  one  who  has  not  had  dealings  with  these  people, 


250  FROM    NISQUALLY    TO    COLUMBIA    RIVER. 

can  form  any  idea  of  the  degree  of  patience  it  requires,  to 
get  along  with  them ;  they  are  as  changeable  as  children,  and 
the  word  "  honor"  seems  not  to  be  in  their  vocabulary. 

After  breakfast,  next  day,  I  went  again  to  the  Indian  en- 
campment, to  see  about  purchasing  a  canoe,  and  succeeded, 
finally,  in  procuring  one  from  a  Chief.  I  likewise  succeeded 
in  engaging  six  men,  who  promised  to  remain  with  us  until  we 
reached  Astoria.  And  to  make  them  still  more  contented,  I 
gave  them  leave  to  take  their  wives  with  them. 

On  returning  to  the  camp,  I  proceeded  to  get  my  instru- 
ments, and  then  went  in  search  of  Mr.  Eld,  who,  I  under- 
stood, had  commenced  operations  at  the  opposite  side  of  the 
harbor.  Not  being  able,  however,  to  find  him,  I  went  on  sur- 
veying alone  ;  at  length  I  saw  a  canoe  at  a  distance,  which  I 
supposed  to  be  his.  Accordingly,  I  at  once  put  up  the  instru- 
ments, and  directed  the  Indians  to  pull  for  the  canoe ;  instead 
of  doing  this,  however,  they  commenced  complaining,  and 
finally  pulled  in  for  the  camp.  Here  they  disembarked,  and 
declared  that  they  would  not  remain  in  our  employ  another 
minute,  if  I  did  not  give  them  some  powder  and  tobacco,  which 
I  positively  refused  to  do.  The  women  now  commenced  to 
pack  up  their  things,  and  carry  them  towards  the  canoe,  a 
circumstance  which  induced  me  to  believe  that  the  party 
intended  to  take  the  canoe,  and  return  to  their  encampment. 
I  therefore  directed  sergeant  Stearns  to  seize  the  mens'  mus- 
kets, and  put  them  in  one  of  the  tents.  This  the  sergeant 
did,  but  the  moment  we  turned  our  backs  to  the  tents,  one  of 
the  Indians  drew  his  knife,  rushed  into  them,  and  brought  out 
the  guns,  one  of  which  he  handed  to  a  woman.  After  a  short 
Struggle,  we  succeeded  in  retaking  the  muskets,  upon  which 
an  Indian,  who  acted  as  spokesman  to  the  party,  came  up,  and 
said  that  they  intended  to  adhere  strictly  to  the  bargain  which 


FROM    NISQUALLY   TO    COLUMBIA    RIVER.  251 

they  had  made  with  me  in  the  morning,  and  were  ready  to  go 
to  work  at  any  moment  I  thought  proper.  I  told  them  it  was 
my  wish,  they  should  go  forthwith ;  the  order  was  obeyed, 
and  I  directed  them  to  pull  for  the  place,  where  I  thought  I 
had  seen  Mr.  Eld.  The  canoe,  however,  had  not  proceeded 
more  than  two  hundred  yards,  when  they  began  to  raise  new 
objections — one  complained  of  being  sick,  another  that  he  was 
very  hungry,  and  a  third  said  that  he  had  a  sister,  who  was 
unwell,  and  he  must  go  and  see  her  before  he  could  go  any 
further.  I  reminded  them  of  their  promises,  and  even  offered 
to  make  them  a  present,  if  they  would  go  on,  but  to  no  pur- 
pose. They  ran  down  to  their  encampment,  and  when  abreast 
of  it,  stood  in.  On  reaching  the  beach,  they  landed,  and  then 
hauled  up  the  canoe,  and  I  expected  nothing  less,  than  being 
told  that  I  was  to  consider  myself  their  prisoner.  Such,  how- 
ever, was  not  the  case ;  they  said  nothing  about  my  remaining 
with  them ;  and  when  I  remarked  that  I  wished  to  return  to 
our  camp,  they  even  furnished  me  with  a  small  canoe,  to  ferry 
me  over  the  stream,  which  separated  the  two  encampments. 

The  following  day,  the  owners  of  the  muskets  came  to  the 
camp,  and  begged  that  they  might  be  returned  to  them,  and 
we  finally  yielded  to  their  wishes.  Owing  partly  to  these 
troubles  with  the  Indians,  and  partly  to  bad  weather,  we  had 
made  but  little  progress  in  the  survey  of  the  harbor  as  yet. 
Some  days  it  stormed  so  furiously,  that  we  could  not  venture 
out  at  all. 

On  the  6th  of  August,  we  shifted  our  camp  about  six  miles 
toward  the  Capes.  After  staying  here  a  few  days  we  selected 
another  place  at  the  South  Head.  Our  greatest  difficulty  now 
was  the  want  of  provisions.  All  our  stores  had  been  exhausted, 
and  for  some  days  past  we  had  been  living  on  dead  fish  we 
picked  up  on  the  beach,  and  some  cammass  root  which  we  had 


252  FROM    NISQUALLY    TO    COLUMBIA    RIVER. 

bought  from  the  Indians.  This  state  of  things  lasted  until  the 
13th  of  August,  when  Lieutenant  De  Haven  who  had  been 
sent  by  Captain  Wilkes  to  aiFord  us  relief,  arrived  with  a 
supply  of  provisions.  This  enabled  us  to  go  on  our  usual  ration, 
and  in  a  few  days  we  all  regained  our  strength,  and  were  able 
to  proceed  with  our' surveying  duties. 

From  Mr.  De  Haven  we  learned  for  the  first  time  the  loss 
of  the  "  Peacock'^  on  the  bar  off  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia 
River. 

On  the  24th  the  survey  was  completed,  and  we  set  out  for 
Astoria,  where  the  Squadron  was  now  lying. 

The  soil  in  the  vicinity  of  Grey's  Harbor  is  of  an  inferior 
quality,  and  the  harbor  itself  seems  to  offer  but  few  facilities 
for  commercial  purposes.  The  channel  is  narrow,  the  width 
being  from  one-half  to  two- thirds  of  a  mile,  with  dangerous 
breakers  on  both  sides.  The  depth  of  water  is  from  five  to 
seven  fathoms.  The  space  after  entering  is  extensive,  but  the 
greatest  part  of  it  is  filled  up  with  mud  flats  which  are  bare  at 
low  water,  and  confine  the  harbor  for  the  anchorage  of  vessels 
to  a  few  hundred  yards.  The  River  Chickelees  before  enter- 
ing into  the  harbor,  increases  in  width  some  six  or  seven  hun- 
dred feet  and  is  navigable  for  vessels  drawing  ten  or  twelve 
feet  of  water  for  several  miles  above  its  mouth. 

Fogs  prevail  in  the  summer  season,  and  some  days  during 
our  stay  we  found  them  so  dense  as  to  render  it  impossible  for 
us  to  proceed  with  our  surveying  duties. 

The  tides  are  irregular  and  influenced  by  the  winds ;  the 
time  of  high  water  at  change  and  full  was  found  to  be  11 
hours  25  minutes. 

The  Indians,  who  inhabit  the  shores  of  the  harbor,  call  tliem- 
selves  Chickelees,  and  their  number  is  about  two  hundred  ; 
they  construct  their  huts  after  the  manner  of  the  Sqnamish 


FROM    NISQUALLY   TO    COLUMBIA    RIVER.  255 


tribe,  and,  like  them,  live  principally  by  fishing.  We  found 
them  well  supplied  with  blankets,  muskets  and  knives.  They 
are  excessively  fond  of  tobacco,  and  invariably  swallow  the 
smoke,  and  oftentimes  retain  it  so  long  in  the  stomach  as  to 
throw  them  into  convulsions.  They  enjoy  high  reputation  as 
warriors,  for  which  reason  they  are  much  dreaded  by  their 
neighbors,  the  Sachals  and  Sachaps,  who  are  of  a  more  peace- 
able character.  Their  amusements  are  similar  to  those  of  the 
tribes  residing  about  Nisqually. 

On  the  day  of  our  departure  (24th)  for  Astoria,  the  surf  ran 
very  high,  and  our  Indians^  instead  of  paddling  the  canoes 
preferred  tracking  them  along  the  beach  inside  of  the  surf. 
This  is  the  mode  they  always  adopt  when  they  are  journeying 
along  the  coast,  to  prevent  accidents  from  the  surf,  of  which 
they  have  great  dread.  We  made  very  good  progress,  and 
at  sunset  arrived  within  fifteen  miles  of  Shoal- Water  Bay. 
Near  this  day's  encampment  we  found  a  Chickelees  Chief  who 
sold  us  another  canoe,  and  who  promised  to  act  as  our  guide 
around  to  the  Columbia. 

About  noon  next  day,  we  reached  Shoal- Water  Bay.  Here, 
by  reason  of  not  understanding  the  guide,  Mr.  Eld  and  my- 
self separated,  he  pursuing  the  course  leading  to  the  eastern 
Portage,  I  the  one  leading  to  the  western,  and  did  not  see  each 
other  again  until  we  arrived  on  board  the  "  Flying  Fish." 
The  western  Portage  is  the  one  preferred  by  the  Indians ;  it 
is  between  four  and  five  miles  long,  and  lays  through  a  flat 
marshy  country. 

On  the  27th,  the  schooner  got  under- way  and  landed  us  at 
Astoria,  where  we  received  written  orders  from  Captain 
Wilkes,  requiring  us  to  join  him  at  Vancouver. 

•  The  day  previous  to  our  leaving  Grey's  Harbor,  Mr.  Eld  succeeded  in  engaging 
fix  Indians  who  were  to  take  us  as  far  as  Shoal- Water  Bay. 


256  FROM    NISQUALLY    TO    COLUMBIA    RIVER. 

At  Astoria,  we  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  the  "  Peacock's'^ 
officers  and  crew,  who  appeared  to  be  in  good  health  and  fine 
spirits,  and  all  spoke  of  the  kind  treatment  they  had  received 
from  Mr.  Birnie,  the  agent  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  at 
Astoria,  and  I  take  this  occasion  to  say,  that  his  treatment  to 
Mr.  Eld  and  myself  also,  was  such  as  to  merit  our  warmest 
thanks.  From  what  I  could  learn,  both  from  officers  and 
crew,  I  inferred,  that  the  loss  of  the  "  Peacock"  was  an  una- 
voidable occurrence,  and  that  through  the  whole  disaster.  Cap- 
tain Hudson's  behavior  had  been  that  of  a  good  officer  and 
an  able  seaman. 

During  our  stay  at  Astoria  I  also  had  the  pleasure  of  be- 
coming acquainted  with  an  American  missionary  and  his  lady, 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Smith.  They  had  arrived  in  the  country  two 
years  previous  with  a  party  which  crossed  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, and,  for  the  last  fifteen  months,  had  been  stationed  at 
a  place  called  Kamia.  But  the  Indians  having  left  there,  and 
the  climate  not  agreeing  with  Mrs.  Smith's  health,  they  had 
determined  to  leave  the  country  and  proceed  to  the  Sandwich 
Islands  ;  they  expected  to  sail  in  a  few  days  for  Oahoo.  They 
both  gave  very  unfavorable  accounts  of  the  Indians  among 
whom  they  had  been  residing,  and  deemed  it  quite  useless  to 
send  missionaries  among  them. 

Astoria  is  situated  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Columbia 
River,  and  distant  about  fifteen  miles  from  Cape  Disappoint- 
ment. The  location  is  a  beautiful  one ;  it  forms  the  crest  of 
a  hill  which  rises  some  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
river,  and  in  pleasant  weather,  the  waters  of  the  Pacific 
Ocean,  Point  Ellice,  Tongue  Point,  Katolamet  Range,  with 
many  other  striking  objects,  are  in  sight. 

As  for  the  town,  it  is  a  sorry  one.  Indeed,  ever  since  the 
period  fixed  on  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  to  make  Van- 


FROM    NISQUALLY    TO    COLUMBIA    RIVER,  257 

couver  the  principal  trading  port,  Astoria  has  been  suffered 
to  dechne  ;  and,  now,  all  it  can  boast  of  is  some  half-dozen  log 
houses,  and  as  many  shades,  which,  of  course,  is  a  great  falling 
off,  if  the  accounts  of  its  former  size  and  prosperity  be  true. 

There  are  many  Indians  hanging  round  Astoria ;  most  of 
them  belong  to  the  Clatsop  tribe,  whose  principal  town  is 
situated  near  Point  Adams.  They  have  an  American  mis- 
sionary among  them,  by  the  name  of  Frost,  and  I  should  judge 
they  had  need  for  many  more,  for  certainly  they  are  the  most 
degraded  set  of  beings  we  have  seen  since  our  arrival  in  the 
country.  They  will  sell  anything  they  have  for  rum,  and  while 
it  lasts  they  are  never  sober ;  they  are  likewise  much  addicted 
to  lying  and  stealing.  It  is  also  said  of  them  that  they  are  very 
belligerent ;  there  is  scarcely  a  tribe  on  the  coast  with  which 
they  are  on  friendly  terms.  A  white  man,  however,  can 
travel  through  any  part  of  their  territory  quite  as  safely  as  he 
can  in  any  other,  for  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  are  sure  to 
punish  all  murders,  or  robberies,  with  death ;  and  the  severity, 
as  well  as  the  certainty  of  the  punishment,  is  sufficient  to  pre- 
vent the  commission  of  such  crimes  more  frequently  than  they 
occur  in  civilized  countries.  About  a  year  since,  a  white  man 
was  murdered  for  his  property  by  a  slave  belonging  to  a  Chief; 
the  instant  the  murder  was  made  known  to  the  Company,  the 
slave  was  seized,  and  hung  in  presence  of  all  the  tribe. 

We  performed  our  jaunt  to  Vancouver  in  a  flat- bottomed 
barge,  furnished  by  Mr.  Birnie.  These  boats  are,  from  their 
light  draft  of  water,  exceedingly  well  adapted  for  the  naviga- 
tion of  the  river.  They  are  used  by  the  Company  to  carry 
freight  up  and  down  the  river,  and  are  capable  of  carrying 
large  cargoes,  and  when  well-manned  can  make  quite  as  much 
headway  as  a  canoe. 

The  breadth  of  the  river  gradually  diminishes  as  you  ap- 


258  FROM    ASTORIA    TO    VANCOUVER. 

preach  Vancouver,  and  at  the  lowest  ebb  the  channel  is  deep 
enough  for  vessels  drawing  fourteen  feet  water.  The  current 
does  not  appear  to  be  very  strong,  and  the  water  as  it  flows 
past  looks  turbid,  but  when  it  is  taken  up,  it  is  perfectly  clear. 
The  country  on  both  sides  rises  gradually  to  the  height  of 
some  thousand  feet,  and  is  well  timbered.  We  saw  on  both 
banks  many  Indian  villages,  some  of  which  were  at  the  time 
without  inhabitants.  This  last  feature  was  attributed  to  the 
ravages  of  the  fever  and  ague,  and  the  appearance  of  the  bury- 
ing-grounds  in  the  vicinity  served  to  confirm  the  statement ; 
they  were  large,  and  thickly  studded  with  graves.  The  first 
case  of  the  kind  occurred  in  the  year  1830,  when  an  European 
vessel,  commanded  by  Captain  Dominis,  was  lying  at  anchor 
in  the  river,  and  the  Indians  have  always  believed  that  he 
brought  the  disease  among  them.  In  the  opinion  of  the  phy- 
sicians of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  the  disease  would  not 
prove  so  fatal  if  they  would  adopt  the  European  mode  of 
treating  it,  but  this  they  will  not  do ;  they  prefer  their  own 
treatment,  which  consists  in  taking  a  series  of  cold  baths. 
The  manner  of  disposing  of  the  dead  does  not  appear  to  be  the 
same  at  all  the  burial  grounds.  In  some,  the  coffins  (which 
were  canoes  planked  over)  rested  on  limbs  of  trees,  while  in 
others  they  stand  in  an  upright  position,  with  about  one- third 
of  their  length  buried  in  the  ground.  The  coffins  are  all 
painted  red,  the  favorite  color,  and  have  hung  around  them 
mats,  baskets,  bows  and  arrows ;  in  short,  everything  supposed 
to  be  of  use  to  the  departed  on  their  journey  to  the  world  of 
Spirits  and  future  Hunting  Grounds. 

On  the  third  day  out,  about  4  P.  M.,  we  passed  the  brig 
"  Porpoise,"  employed  in  surveying  the  r^^er,  and  in  about 
half  an  hour  more  we  landed  at  Vancouver,  and  reported 
to   Captain    Wilkes,   who   congratulated   us   upon   our    safe 


-J 


LIFE    AT   VANCOUVER.  259 

return,  and  also  complimented  us  upon  the  result  of  our 
labors. 

On  leaving  Captain  W.  we  took  a  walk  in  and  about  the 
famous  fort,  and  then  repaired  on  board  the  "  Porpoise." 

September  1st.  This  morning  I  received  other  orders, 
namely,  to  be  ready  to  join  the  Overland  Expedition  to  Cali- 
fornia, commanded  by  Lieutenant  Emmons.  It  is  already  or- 
ganized and  encamped  on  the  banks  of  the  Willamette  River, 
and  will,  I  am  informed,  consist,  besides  myself,  of  the  follow- 
ing individuals : — Lieutenant  Emmons,  Mr.  Eld,  Dr.  Whittle ; 
Mr.  Peale,  naturalist ;  Mr.  Rich,  botanist ;  Mr.  Dana,  geolo- 
gist ;  Mr.  A.  T.  Agate,  artist ;  Mr.  Brackenridge,  assistant- 
botanist  ;  sergeant  Stearns ;  corporal  Hughes ;  privates  Smith 
and  Marsh ;  seamen  Sutton,  Doughty,  Merza,  Walthan ; 
Batist  Guardipee,  guide. 

I  understand  the  object  of  the  Expedition  originally  was  to 
explore  the  country  as  far  as  the  Shaste  Mountains,  and  then 
return  to  Vancouver  by  a  different  route. 

Mr.  Emmons  is  here  attending  to  the  procuring  of  stores, 
and  will  return  to  the  camp  to-morrow. 

The  following  sketch  of  a  life  at  Vancouver,  by  one  who 
spent  some  weeks  there,  may  be  interesting : — 

"  Fort  Vancouver  is  the  depot  at  which  are  brought  the  furs 
collected  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  from  which  they 
are  shipped  to  England,  and  also  the  place  at  which  all  the 
goods  for  the  trade  are  landed,  and  from  which  they  are 
distributed  to  the  various  posts  of  that  territory  by  vessels, 
batteaux,  or  pack-animals,  as  the  various  routes  permit.  It 
was  established  by  Governor  Simpson  in  1824,  as  the  great 
centre  of  all  commercial  operations  in  Oregon ;  is  situated  in  a 
beautiful  plain  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Columbia,  ninety 
miles  from  the  sea,  and  stands  400  yards  from  the  water's 


260  LIFE    AT    VANCOUVER. 

side.  The  noble  river  before  it,  is  1670  yards  wide,  and  from 
five  to  seven  fathoms  in  depth.  The  whole  surrounding  coun- 
try is  covered  with  forests  of  pine,  cedar,  fir,  &c.,  interspersed 
here  and  there  with  small  open  spots,  all  overlooked  by  the 
vast  snowy  pyramids  of  the  President's  Range,  35  miles  in 
the  east. 

"  The  fort  itself,  is  an  oblong  squarCj  250  yards  in  length, 
by  150  in  breadth,  inclosed  by  pickets,  twenty  feet  in  height. 
The  area  within  is  divided  into  two  courts,  around  which  are 
arranged  thirty-five  wooden  buildings,  used  as  officers'  dwell- 
ings, lodging  apartments  for  clerks,  store-houses  for  furs, 
goods  and  grains,  and  as  workshops  for  carpenters,  black- 
smiths, coopers,  turners,  wheelwrights,  &c.  The  building  near 
the  rear  gate,  is  occupied  as  a  school-house ;  and  a  brick 
structure  as  a  powder  magazine. 

''  Six  hundred  yards  below  the  fort,  and  on  the  bank  of  the 
river,  is  a  village  of  fifty-three  log  houses ;  in  these  live  the 
Company's  servants  ;  among  them  is  a  Hospital,  in  which  those 
of  them  who  become  diseased,  are  humanely  treated.  Back 
and  a  little  east  of  the  fort,  is  a  barn,  containing  a  mammoth 
threshing-machine,  and  near  this  are  a  number  of  long  sheds, 
used  for  storing  grain  in  the  sheaf.  And  behold  the  Vancou- 
rer  farm,  stretching  up  and  down  the  river,  three  thousand 
acres,  fenced  into  beautiful  fields,  sprinkled  with  dairy-houses 
and  herdsmen's  and  shepherd's  cottages !  A  busy  place  is 
this.  The  farmer  on  horseback  at  break  of  day,  summons 
one  hundred  half-breeds  and  Iriquois  Indians  from  their  cabins 
to  the  fields;  twenty  or  thirty  ploughs  tear  open  the  gene- 
rous soil ;  the  sowers  follow  with  their  seed,  and  pressing  on 
them,  come  a  dozen  harrows  to  cover  it.  And  thus  thirty  or 
forty  acres  are  planted  in  a  day,  till  the  immense  farm  is 
under  crop.     The  season  passes  on,  teeming  with  daily  in- 


LIFE    AT    VANCOUVER.  261 

dustry,  until  the  harvest  waves  on  all  these  fields.  And  then 
sickle  and  hoe  glisten  in  tireless  activity,  to  gather  in  the  rich 
reward  of  this  toil — the  food  of  seven  hundred  people  at  this 
post,  and  of  thousands  more  at  the  posts  on  the  deserts  in  the 
east  and  north.  The  saw-mill,  too,  is  a  scene  of  constant  toil ; 
thirty  or  forty  Sandwich  Islanders  are  felling  the  pines,  and 
dragging  them  to  the  mill;  sets  of  hands  are  playing  two 
gangs  of  saws  by  night  and  day  ;  three  thousand  feet  of  lum- 
ber per  day — 900,000  feet  per  annum — constantly  being 
shipped  to  foreign  ports.  The  grist-mill  is  not  idle;  it  must 
furnish  bread-stuffs  for  the  posts  and  the  Russian  market 
in  the  northwest ;  and  its  deep  music  is  heard  daily  and 
nightly,  half  the  year. 

"  But  we  will  enter  the  fort.  The  blacksmith  is  repairing 
ploughshares,  harrow-teeth,  chains,  and  mill-irons  ;  the  tin- 
man is  making  cups  for  the  Indians,  and  camp-kettles,  &c.  ; 
the  wheelwright  is  making  wagons,  and  the  wood  part  of 
plough  'sand  harrows ;  the  carpenter  is  repairing  houses  and 
building  new  ones  ;  the  cooper  is  making  barrels,  for  pickling 
salmon  and  packing  furs ;  the  clerks  are  posting  books  and 
preparing  the  annual  returns  to  the  board  in  London  ;  the 
salesmen  are  receiving  beaver,  and  dealing  out  goods.  But, 
hear  the  voices  of  those  children  from  the  school-house !  they 
are  the  half-breed  offspring  of  the  gentlemen  and  servants  of 
the  Company,  educated  at  the  Company's  expense,  prepara 
tory  to  being  apprenticed  to  trades  in  Canada ;  they  learn  the 
English  language,  writing,  arithmetic,  and  geography.     The 

, ,    gardener,  too,  is  singing  out  his  honest  satisfaction,  as  he  sur- 

|:    veys   from   the   north   gate,  ten   acres  of  apple-trees,  laden 
with  fruit,  his  bowers  of  grape-vines,  his  beds  of  vegetables, 

,    and  flowers.    .The  bell  rings  for  dinner  ;  we  will  see  the  '  hall,' 

t!     and  its  convivialities. 


262  LIFE    AT    VANCOUVER. 


''The  dining-hall  is  a  spacious  room,  on  the  second  floor, 
ceiied  with  pine  above  and  at  the  sides.  In  the  southwest 
corner  of  it,  is  a  large  close  stove  sending  out  sufficient  caloric 
to  make  it  comfortable. 

"  At  the  end  of  a  table,  twenty  feet  in  length,  stands  Gov- 
ernor McLaughlin,  directing  guests  and  gentlemen  from  neigh- 
boring posts,  to  their  places ;  and  chief- traders,  traders,  the 
physician,  clerks,  and  the  farmers,  slide  respectfully  to  their 
places,  at  distances  from  the  Governor,  corresponding  to  the 
dignity  of  their  rank  in  the  service;  thanks  are  given  to  God, 
and  all  are  seated.  Roast  beef  and  pork,  boiled  mutton, 
baked  salmon,  boiled  ham,  beets,  carrots,  turnips,  cabbage 
and  potatoes,  and  wheaten  bread,  are  tastefully  distributed 
over  the  table,  among  a  dinner-set  of  elegant  Queen's  ware, 
burnished  with  glittering  glasses,  and  decanters  of  various 
colored  Italian  wines.  Course  after  course  goes  round,  and 
the  Governor  fills  to  his  guests  and  friends,  and  each  gentle- 
man in  turn  vies  with  him,  in  diffusing  around  the  board,  a 
most  generous  allowance  of  viands,  wines,  and  warm  fellow- 
feeling.  The  cloth  and  wines  are  removed  together,  cigars 
are  lighted,  and  a  strolling  smoke  about  the  premises,  en- 
livened by  a  courteous  discussion  of  some  mooted  point  of 
natural  history,  or  politics,  closes  the  ceremonies  of  the  din- 
ner-hour at  Fort  Vancouver.  These  are  some  of  the  inci- 
dents of  life  at  Vancouver." 


EARLY    HISTORY    OF    OREGON.  263 


CHAPTER  XX. 

DARLY    HISTORY    OF    OREGON. 

"  Take  the  wings 
Oi  morning,  and  the  Barcan  desert  pierce, 
0  •  lose  thyself  in  the  continuous  woods 
Where  rolls  the  Oregon,  and  hears  no  sound 
Save  his  own  dashings." 

Northwestern  America  is  divided  from  the  other  por- 
tions of  the  Continent,  by  the  Rocky  Mountains,  which  extend 
tliroughout  its  entire  length,  in  a  north-westerly  direction,  in 
continuation  of  the  Mexican  Andes,  to  the  shores  of  the 
Arctic  Ocean.  Between  this  great  chain  of  mountains  and 
the  Pacific  Ocean,  a  most  ample  territory  extends,  which  may 
be  regarded  as  divided  into  three  great  districts.  The  most 
southerly  of  these,  of  which  the  northern  boundary  line  was 
drawn  along  the  parallel  of  42°,  by  the  Treaty  of  Washing- 
ton, in  1819,  belong  to  Mexico.  The  most  northerly,  com- 
mencing at  Behring's  Straits,  and  of  which  the  extreme 
southern  limit  was  fixed  at  the  southernmost  point  of  Prince 
of  Wales  Island,  in  the  parallel  of  54°  4(X'  north,  by  treaties 
concluded  between  Russia  and  the  United  States  of  America, 
in  1824,  and  between  Russia  and  Great  Britain,  in  1825, 
forms  a  part  of  the  dominions  of  Russia ;  whilst  the  interme- 
diate country  is  not  as  yet  under  the  sovereignty  of  any  power. 

To  this  intermediate  territory,  different  names  have  been 
assigned.     To  the  portion  of  the  coast,  between  the  parallels 


264  EARLY    HISTORY    OF    OREGON. 

of  43°  and  48°,  the  British  have  applied  the  name  of  New 
Albion.  Since  the  expedition  of  Sir  Francis  Drake,  in  1578- 
'80,  and  the  British  Government,  in  the  instructions  furnished 
by  the  Lords  of  the  Admiralty,  in  1776,  to  Captain  Cook, 
directed  him  to  proceed  to  the  coast  of  New  Albion,  endea- 
voring to  fall  in  with  it  in  the  latitude  of  45°.*  At  a  later 
period,  Vancouver  gave  the  name  of  New  Georgia  to  the 
coast  between  50°  and  54°,  whilst  to  the  entire  country,  north 
of  New  Albion,  between  48°  and  56°  30',  from  the  Rocky 
Mountains  to  the  sea,  British  traders  have  given  the  name  of 
New  Caledonia,  ever  since  the  Northwest  Company  formed  an 
establishment  on  the  western  side  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  in 
1806.  The  Spanish  government,  on  the  other  hand,  in  the 
course  of  the  negotiations  with  the  British  government,  which 
ensued  upon  the  seizure  of  the  British  vessels  in  Nootka 
Sound,  and  terminated  in  the  Convention  of  the  Escurial,  in 
1790,  designated  the  entire  territory  as  "  the  Coast  of  Cali- 
fornia in  the  South  Sea." 

If  we  adopt  the  more  extensive  use  of  the  term  Oregonf 

♦  See  Cook's  Voyage  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  1782. 
t  The  authority  for  the  use  of  the  word  Oregon,  or  Oregan,  haa  not  been  clearly 
ascertained,  but  the  majority  of  writers  agree  in  referring  the  introduction  of  the 
name  to  Carver's  Travels.  Jonathan  Carver,  a  native  of  Connecticut,  set  out  from 
Boston,  in  1766,  soon  after  the  transfer  of  Canada  to  Great  Britain,  on  an  expedition 
to  the  regions  of  the  Upper  Mississippi,  with  the  ultimate  purpose  of  ascertaining  the 
breadth  of  that  vast  Continent,  which  extends  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  Ocean, 
in  its  broadest  part,  between  45°  and  46°  of  north  latitude.  Carver  did  not  succeed  in 
penetrating  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  but  he  first  made  known,  or  at  least  established  a 
belief  in  the  existence  of  a  great  river,  termed,  apparently,  by  the  Indian  nations  in 
the  interior,  Oregon,  or  Oregan,  the  source  of  which,  he  placed  not  far  from  the 
head  waters  of  the  river  Missouri,  "on  the  other  side  of  the  summit  of  the  lands 
that  divide  the  waters,  which  run  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  from  those  which  fall 
into  the  Pacific  Ocean."  He  was  led  to  infer  from  the  account  of  the  natives,  that 
this  *'  Great  River  of  the  West"  emptied  itself  near  the  Straits  of  Anian,  although 
it  may  be  observed,  that  the  situation  of  the  so  called  Straits  of  Arian  themselves, 
were  not  at  this  time  accurately  fixed.  Carver,  however,  was  misled  in  this  latter 
respect,  but  the   description  of  the   locality,  where   he    placed    the  source   of   the 


EARLY    HISTORY    OF    OREGON.  265 

territory,  as  applied  to  the  entire  country,  intermediate  be- 
tween the  dominions  of  Russia  and  Mexico,  respectively — its 
boundaries  will  be  the  Rocky  Mountains  on  the  east,  the 
Pacific  Ocean  on  the  west,  the  parallel  of  54°  40'  north  lati- 
tude on  the  north,  and  that  of  42°  north  latitude  on  the  south. 
The  entire  superficies  would  thus  amount  to  501,600  geogra- 
phical square  miles.  If,  on  the  other  hand,  we  accept  the 
north-western  limit,  which  Mr.  Greenhow  has  marked  out  for 
'^  the  Country  of  the  Columbia,"  namely,  the  range  of  moun- 
tains which  stretches  north-eastward,  from  the  eastern  extre- 
mity of  the  Straits  of  Fuca,  about  four  hundred  miles,  to  the 
Rocky  Mountains;  separating  the  waters  of  the  Columbia 
from  those  of  Frazer's  River,  it  will  include  not  less  than 
400,000  square  miles  in  superficial  extent,  which  is  nearly 
half  of  all  the  States  of  the  Federal  Union. 

Such  are  the  geographical  limits  of  the  Oregon  Territory,  in 
its  widest  and  in  its  narrowest  extent.  The  Indian  hunter 
roamed  throughout  it,  undisturbed  by  civilized  man,  till  near 
the  conclusion  of  the  last  century,  when  Captain  James  King, 
on  his  return  from  the  expedition,  which  proved  so  fatal  to 
Captain  Cook,  made  known  the  high  prices  which  the  fur  of 
the  sea-otter  commanded,  in  the  markets  of  China,  and, 
thereby  attracted  the  attention  of  Europeans  to  it.  The  en- 
terprise of  British  merchants  was  in  consequence  of  Captain 
King's  suggestion,  directed  to  the  opening  of  the  Fur  trade, 

Oregon,  seems  to  identify  it  either  with  the  Flatbow,  or  with  the  Flathead,  or 
Clark's  River,  each  of  which  streams,  after  pursuing  a  north-western  course,  from 
the  base  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  unites  with  a  great  river,  coming  from  the 
north,  which  ultimately  empties  itself  into  the  Pacific  Ocean,  in  latitude  46"  18'  O'O'. 
The  name  of  Oregon  has  consequently  been  perpetuated  in  this  main  river,  as 
being  really  the  "  Great  River  of  the  West,"  and  by  this  name  it  is  best  known 
in  Europe  ;  but  in  the  United  States,  it  is  more  frequently  spoken  of  as  the 
Columbia  River,  from  the  name  of  the  American  vessel,  the  "Columbia,"  which 
really  first  discovered  it  in  ^""M,  and  anchored  off  Astoria,  distant  about  ten  miles 
from  the  mouth  of  the  rivei 


266  EARLY  HISTORY    OF   OREGON. 

between  the  native  hunters,  along  the  northwest  coast  of 
America,  and  the  Chinese,  as  early  as  1786.  The  attempt 
of  the  Spaniards  to  suppress  this  trade,  by  the  seizure  of  the 
vessels  engaged  in  it,  in  1789,  led  to  the  dispute  between  the 
Crowns  of  Spain  and  Great  Britain,  in  respect  to  the  claim  to 
exclusive  sovereignty,  asserted  by  the  former  power  over  the 
Port  of  Nootka  and  the  adjacent  latitudes,  which  was  brought 
to  a  close  by  the  Convention  of  the  Escurial,  in  1790. 

The  European  merchants,  however,  who  engaged  in  this 
lucrative  branch  of  commerce,  confined  their  visits  to  stations 
on  the  coasts,  where  the  natives  brought  from  the  interior  the 
produce  of  their  hunting  expeditions ;  and  even  respecting 
the  coast  itself,  very  little  accurate  information  was  possessed 
by  Europeans  before  Vancouver's  survey.  Vancouver,  as  is 
well  known,  was  dispatched  in  1791  by  the  British  Govern- 
ment to  superintend,'  on  the  part  of  Great  Britain,  the  execu- 
tion of  the  Convention  of  the  Escurial,  and  he  was  at  the 
same  time  instructed  to  survey  the  coast  from  35°  to  60°,  with 
a  view  to  ascertain  in  what  parts  civilized  nations  had  made 
settlements,  and  likewise  to  determine  whether  or  not  any 
effective  water- communication,  available  for  commercial  pur- 
poses, existed  in  those  parts  between  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific 
Oceans.  A  Spanish  Expedition,  under  Galiano  and  Valdes, 
was  engaged  about  the  same  time  upon  the  same  object;  so 
that  froi^  this  period,  namely,  the  concluding  decade  of  the 
last  century,  the  coast  of  Oregon  may  be  considered  to  have 
been  sufficiently  well  known. 

The  interior,  however,  of  the  country  had  remained  hitherto 
unexplored,  and  no  white  man  seems  ever  to  have  crossed  the 
Rocky  Mountains  prior  to  Alexander  Mackenzie  in  1793. 
Having  ascended  the  Unjigah,  or  Peace  River,  from  the  At- 
habaska  Lake  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  to 


EARLY    HISTORY    OF    OREGON.  267 

one  of  its  sources  in  54°  24'  OC,  Mackenzie  embarked  upon 
a  river  flowing  from  the  western  base  of  the  mountains, 
called  by  the  natives  Tacoutche  Tesse.  This  was  generally 
supposed  to  be  the  northernmost  branch  of  the  Columbia 
River,  till  it  was  traced  in  1812  to  the  Gulf  of  Georgia,  where 
it  empties  itself  in  49°  latitude,  and  was  henceforth  named 
Frazer's  River.  Mackenzie  having  descended  this  river  for 
about  250  miles,  struck  across  the  country  westward,  and 
reached  the  sea  in  52°  20'  00'',  at  an  inlet  which  had  been 
surveyed  a  short  time  before  by  Vancouver,  and  had  been 
named  by  him  Cascade  Canal.  This  was  the  first  expedition 
of  civilized  men  through  the  country  west  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains. It  did  not  lead  to  any  immediate  result  in  the  way  of 
settlement,  though  it  paved  the  way  by  contributing,  in  con- 
junction with  Vancouver's  survey,  to  confirm  the  conclusion  at 
which  Captain  Cook  had  arrived,  that  the  American  continent 
extended  in  an  uninterrupted  line  north-westward  to  Behring's 
Straits. 

The  result  of  Mackenzie's  discoveries  was  to  open  a  wide 
field  to  the  westward  for  the  enterprise  of  British  merchants 
engaged  in  the  fur-trade ;  and  thus  we  find  a  settlement  in 
this  extensive  district  made  not  long  after  the  publication  of 
his  voyage,  by  the  agents  of  the  Northwest  Company.  ,  This 
great  association  had  been  growing  up  since  1784,  upon  the 
wreck  of  the  French-Canadian  fur- trade,  and  gradually  ab- 
sorbed into  itself  all  the  minor  companies.  It  did  not,  how- 
ever, obtain  its  complete  organization  till  1805,  when  it  soon 
became  a  most  formidable  rival  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company, 
which  had  been  chartered  as  early  as  1670,  and  had  all  but  suc- 
ceeded in  monopolizing  the  entire  fur-trade  of  North  America, 
after  the  transfer  of  Canada  to  Great  Britain.  The  Hudson's 
Bay  Company,  with  the  characteristic  security  of  a  chartered 


268  EARLY    HISTORY    OF   OREGON. 

company,  tad  confined  their  posts  to  the  shores  of  the  ample- 
territory  which  had  been  granted  to  them  by  the  Charter  of 
Charles  II. ,  and  left  the  task  of  procuring  furs  to  the  enter- 
prise of  the  native  hunters.  The  practice  of  the  hunters  was 
to  suspend  their  chase  during  the  summer  months,  when  the 
fur  is  of  inferior  quality  and  the  animals  rear  their  young,  and 
to  descend  by  the  lakes  and  rivers  of  the  interior  to  the  estab- 
lished marts  of  the  Company,  with  the  produce  of  the  past 
winter's  campaign.  The  Northwest  Company  adopted  a 
totally  different  system.  They  dispatched  their  servants  into 
the  very  recesses  of  the  wilderness  to  bargain  with  the  native 
hunters  at  their  homes.  They  established  "  wintering  part- 
ners" in  the  interior  of  the  country  to  superintend  the  inter- 
course with  the  various  tribes  of  Indians,  and  employed  at  one 
time  not  fewer  than  two  thousand  voyageurs,  or  boatmen. 
The  natives  being  thus  no  longer  called  away  from  their  pur- 
suit of  the  beaver  and  other  animals,  by  the  necessity  of 
resorting  as  heretofore  to  the  factories  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  continued  on  their  hunting-grounds  during  the 
whole  year,  and  were  tempted  to  kill  the  cub  and  full-grown 
animal  alike,  and  thus  to  anticipate  the  supply  of  future  years. 
As  the  nearer  hunting-grounds  became  exhausted,  the  North- 
west Company  advanced  their  stations  westwardly  into  regions 
previously  unexplored,  and  in  1806  they  pushed  forward  a 
post  across  the  Rocky  Mountains,  through  the  passage  where 
the  Peace  River  descends  through  a  deep  chasm  in  the  chain, 
and  formed  a  trading  establishment  on  a  lake  now  called 
Frazer's  Lake,  situated  in  54°  north  latitude.  It  is  from  this 
period,  according  to  Mr.  Harnon,  who  was  a  partner  in  the  com- 
pany, and  superintendent  of  its  trade  on  the  wertern  side  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  that  the  name  of  New  Caledonia  had  been 
used  to  designate  the  northern  portion  of  the  Oregon  Territory. 


EARLY    HISTORY    OF   OREGON. 


The  United  States  of  America  had  in  the  meantime  not 
remained  inattentive  to  their  own  future  commercial  interests 
in  this  quarter,  as  they  had  dispatched  from  the  southern  side 
an  exploring  party  across  the  Rocky  Mountains  almost  imme- 
diately after  their  purchase  of  Lousiana  in  1803.  On  this  oc- 
casion Mr.  Jefferson,  then  President  of  the  United  States,  com- 
missioned Captains  Lewis  and  Clarke  "  to  explore  the  River 
Missouri  and  its  principal  branches  to  their  sources,  and  then 
to  seek  and  trace  to  its  termination  in  the  Pacific,  some 
stream,  whether  the  Columbia,  the  Oregon,  the  Colorado,  or 
any  other  which  might  offer  the  most  direct  and  practicable 
water-communication  across  the  continent  for  the  purpose  of 
commerce."  The  party  succeeded  in  passing  the  Rocky 
Mountains  towards  the  end  of  September,  in  1805,  and  after 
following,  by  the  advice  of  their  native  guides,  the  Kooskookee 
River,  which  they  reached  in  latitude  43°  34'  00'',  to  its 
junction  with  the  principal  southern  tributary  of  the  Great 
River  of  the  West,  they  gave  the  name  of  Lewis  to  this 
tributary.  Having  in  seven  days  afterwards  reached  the 
main  stream,  they  traced  it  down  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  where 
it  was  found  to  empty  itself  in  latitude  46°  18'  00"  north. 
They  thus  identified  the  Oregon,  or  Great  River  of  the  West 
of  Carver,  with  the  river  to  whose  outlet  Captain  Grey  had 
given  the  name  of  his  vessel,  the  Columbia,  in  1792,  and 
having  passed  the  winter  among  the  Clatsop  Indians  in  an 
encampment  on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  not  very  far  from 
its  mouth,  which  they  called  Fort  Clatsop,  they  commenced 
with  the  approach  of  spring  the  ascent  of  the  Columbia  on 
their  return  homeward.  After  reaching  the  Kooskookee,  they 
pursued  a  course  eastward,  till  they  arrived  at  a  stream,  to 
which  they  gave  the  name  of  Clarke,  as  considering  it  to  be  the 
upper  part  of  the  main  river  which  they  had  previously  called 


270  EARLY    HISTORY    OF    OREGON* 

Clarke  at  its  confluence  with  the  Lewis.  Here  they  separated 
at  about  the  forty- seventh  parallel  of  latitude.  Captain  Lewis 
then  struck  across  the  country  northward  to  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  crossed  them  so  as  to  reach  the  head-waters 
of  the  Maria  River,  which  empties  itself  into  the  Missouri, 
just  below  the  Falls.  Captain  Clarke,  on  the  other  hand, 
followed  the  Clarke  River  towards  its  source,  in  a  southward 
direction,  and  then  crossed  through  a  gap  in  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, so  as  to  descend  the  Yellow  Stone  River  to  the  Missouri. 
Both  parties  united  once  more  on  the  banks  of  the  Missouri, 
and  arrived  in  safety  at  St.  Louis  in  September,  1806. 

The  reports  of  this  Expedition  seem  to  have  first  directed 
the  attention  of  traders  in  the  United  States  to  the  hunting- 
grounds  of  Oregon.  The  Missouri  Fur  Company  was  formed 
in  1808,  and  Mr.  Henry,  one  of  its  agents,  established  a 
trading  post  on  a  branch  of  the  Lewis  River,  the  great  southern 
arm  of  the  Columbia.  The  hostility,  however,  of  the  natives, 
combined  with  the  difficulty  of  procuring  supplies,  compelled 
Mr.  Henry  to  abandon  it  in  1810.  The  Pacific  Fur  Com- 
pany was  formed  about  this  time  at  New  York,  with  the  object 
of  engaging  in  the  fur  commerce  between  China  and  the  north- 
west Coast  of  America.  The  head  of  this  association  was 
John  Jacob  Astor.  He  had  already  obtained  a  charter  from 
the  Legislature  of  New  York,  in  1809,  incorporating  a  Com- 
pany, under  the  name  of  the  American  Fur  Company,  to 
compete  with  the  Mackinaw  Company  of  Canada,  within  the 
Atlantic  States,  of  which  he  was  himself  the  real  representa- 
tive, according  to  Mr.  Washington  Irving — his  board  of  Di- 
rectors being  merely  a  nominal  body.  Mr.  Astor  engaged  nine 
partners  in  his  scheme,  of  whom  six  were  Scotchmen,  who 
had  all  been  in  the  service  of  the  Northwest  Company,  and 
three  were  citizens  of  the  United  States. 


EARLY    HISTORY    OF    OREGON.  271 

Having  at  last  arranged  his  plans,  he  dispatched  in  Septem- 
ber, 1810,  four  of  his  partners,  with  twenty-seven  subor- 
dinate officers  and  servants,  in  the  ship,  *'  Tonquin,"  com- 
manded by  Jonathan  Thorne,  a  lieutenant  in  the  United 
States  Navy,  to  establish  a  settlement  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia  River.  They  arrived  at  their  destination  in  March, 
1811,  and  erected  a  fort  and  other  necessary  buildings  on  the 
south  side  of  the  river,  about  ten  miles  from  the  mouth,  to 
which  the  name  of  Astoria  was  given.  The  Tonquin  proceeded 
in  June  on  a  trading  voyage  to  the  northward,  and  was  de- 
stroyed, with  her  crew,  by  the  Indians  in  the  Bay  of  Clyoquot, 
near  the  entrance  of  the  Strait  of  Fuca. 

In  the  following  month  of  July,  Mr.  Thomson,  the  agent  of 
the  Northwest  Company,  descended  the  northern  branch  of  the 
Columbia,  and  visited  the  settlement  at  the  mouth  of  the  Co- 
lumbia, He  was  received  with  friendly  hospitality  by  the 
Superintendent  of  the  Pacific  Company,  and  shortly  took  his 
departure  again.  Mr,  Stuart,  one  of  Mr.  Astor's  partners, 
accompanied  him  up  the  river  as  far  as  its  junction  with  the 
Okinagan,  where  he  remained  during  the  winter,  collecting 
furs  from  the  natives.  The  Factory  at  Astoria,  in  the  mean- 
time, was  reinforced  in  January,  1812,  by  a  further  detach- 
ment of  persons  in  the  service  of  the  Pacific  Fur  Company, 
who  had  set  out  overland  early  in  1811,  and  after  sufiering 
extreme  hardships,  and  losing  several  of  their  number,  at  last 
made  their  way  in  separate  parties  to  the  mouth  of  the  Colum- 
bia. A  third  detachment  was  brought  by  the  ship  "  Beaver" 
in  the  following  May.  All  the  partners  of  the  Company,  ex- 
clusive of  Mr.  Astor,  had  now  been  dispatched  to  the  scene 
of  their  future  trading  operations.  Mr.  Mackay  was  alone 
wanting  to  their  number ;  he  had  unfortunately  proceeded 
northwards  with  Captain  Thorne,  in  order  to  make  arrange- 


272  EARLY    HISTORY    OF    OREGON. 

ments  with  the  Russians,  and  was  involved  in  the  common 
fate  of  the  crew  of  the  "  Tonquin." 

The  circumstances,  however,  of  this  establishment  under- 
went a  great  change  upon  the  declaration  of  war  by  the  United 
States  against  Great  Britain,  in  1812.  Tidings  of  this  event 
reached  the  Factory  in  January,  1813,  through  Messrs.  McTa- 
vish  and  Laroque,  partners  of  the  Northwest  Company,  who 
visited  Astoria  with  a  small  detachment  of  persons  in  the  em- 
ployment of  that  Company,  and  opened  negotiations  for  the 
dissolution  of  the  Pacific  Fur  Company,  and  the  abandonment 
of  the  estabUshment  at  Astoria.  The  Association  was,  in 
consequence,  dissolved  in  July,  1813,  and  on  the  16th  of 
October  following,  an  agreement  was  executed  between  Messrs. 
McTavish  and  Mr.  John  Stuart,  on  the  part  of  the  Northwest 
Company,  and  Messrs.  McDougal,  McKenzie,  David  Stuart, 
and  Clarke,  on  the  part  of  the  Pacific  Company,  by  which  all 
the  establishments,  furs,  and  stock  in  hand  of  the  late  Pacific 
Fur  Company,  were  transferred  to  the  Northwest  Company, 
at  a  given  valuation,  which  produced,  according  to  Mr. 
Greenhow,  a  sum  total  of  58,000  dollars. 

The  bargain  had  hardly  been  concluded  when  the  British 
sloop-of-war,  the  "  Racoon,"  under  the  command  of  Captain 
Black,  entered  the  Columbia  River,  with  the  express  purpose 
of  destroying  the  settlement  at  Astoria ;  but  the  establishment 
had  previously  become  the  property  of  the  Northwest  Com- 
pany, and  was  in  the  hands  of  their  agents.  All  that  remained 
for  Captain  Black  to  perform  was  to  hoist  the  British  Flag 
over  the  Factory,  the  name  of  which  he  changed  to  Fort 
George.  There  have  been  no  changes  in  the  Territory  since 
1813,  worthy  of  particular  notice. 


OVERLAND    EXPEDITION    TO    SAN    FRANCISCO,  278 


CHAPTER  XXL 

FROM    VANCOUVER    TO    SAN    FRANCISCO,    CALIFORNIA. 

At  11  A.  M.,  September  2i,  Messrs.  Eld,  Dana,  Brack- 
enbridge  and  myself,  embarked  in  a  canoe  paddled  by  four 
Indians,  to  join  the  Expedition  I  have  before  spoken  of.  At 
2,  we  reached  the  mouth  of  the  Willamette  River,  which  we 
entered.  It  is  here  about  800  feet  in  breadth,  and  its  banks 
are  low  and  uninteresting.  After  ascending  a  few  miles  we 
met  the  Rev.  Mr.  Cone,  who  was  on  his  way  to  Vancouver. 
He  spoke  of  our  party  encamped  in  the  valley,  and  stated  that 
several  of  the  scientific  gentlemen  were  suffering  from  the  at- 
tacks of  the  ague.  Mr.  C.  is  connected  with  the  Methodist 
Mission  in  Oregon.  At  sunset  we  encamped  near  an  oak 
grove  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river. 

At  an  early  hour  the  following  morning,  we  resumed  our 
journey,  and  after  pulling  about  eight  miles,  reached  the 
Klackamus,  where  we  found  five  Americans  building  a  schooner, 
in  which  they  intended  to  engage  in  the  sea-otter  trade.  They 
informed  us  that  they  had  been  in  Oregon  nearly  a  year,  and 
had  crossed  the  Rocky  Mountains.  They  did  not  speak  fa- 
vorably of  the  country,  and  stated,  that  they  intended  to  leave 
for  California  as  soon  as  they  could  make  a  little  money  in 
the  fur  business.  The  Willamette  River  is  navigable  at  the 
lowest  stage  of  water  as  far  as  the  Klackamus.  After  ascend- 
ing another  three  miles,  we  arrived  at  the  Falls.  As  we  ap- 
proached these,  the  breadth  of  the  river  rapidly  diminished, 


274  OVERLAND    EXPEDITION    TO    SAN    FRANCISCO. 

and  the  water  shoaled  ;  the  banks  were  -also  higher  and  more 
precipitious.  There  is  a  mission  station  here  under  the  charge 
of  Mr.  Waller.  The  Hudson's  Bay  Company  have  likewise 
a  trading  post  near  by,  and  pack  a  great  many  salmon,  which 
the  Indians  catch  in  large  quantities.  It  is  said  to  be  the  best 
salmon  fishery  on  the  river.  The  Falls  are  between  twenty 
and  thirty  feet  in  height,  and,  when  the  country  becomes 
settled,  they  will  be  invaluable  for  their  water-power.  An 
American  by  the  name  of  Moore,  told  us,  that  the  western 
side  of  the  Falls  had  become  his  property,  he  having  bought 
the  land  on  that  side  of  the  river  from  an  Indian  chief. 

Our  progress  now  was  much  slower  than  before,  owing  to 
the  strength  of  the  current,  and  we  crossed  and  re-crossed  the 
river  frequently  in  order  to  take  advantage  of  the  eddies. 
This  part  of  the  Willamette  is  considered  very  dangerous 
when  the  water  is  high,  and  the  Indians,  in  passing,  invariably 
make  to  it  a  propitiatory  offering  of  some  of  their  food,  that 
they  may  have  a  safe  passage. 

The  night  was  clear  and  pleasant,  and  we  continued  to  pull 
until  we  reached  Champooing  village,  which  was  as  far  as  Mr. 
Eld  and  myself  intended  to  proceed  by  water. 

On  the  following  morning,  we  breakfasted  by  invitation, 
with  Mr.  McKoy,  one  of  the  most  noted  individuals  in  this 
part  of  the  country.  Among  the  trappers,  he  is  the  hero  of 
many  a  tale,  and  he  entertained  us  during  our  stay  with  an  ac- 
count of  several  of  his  adventures  with  the  Indians,  which 
certainly  showed  him  to  be  a  man  of  great  nerve  and  shrewd- 
ness. He  is  about  forty  years  of  age,  tall,  and  straight,  and 
has  a  countenance  expressive  of  great  firmness  and  daring  of 
character.  His  crops  had  just  been  gathered,  and  he  in- 
formed us  that  the  average  yield  of  the  wheat  would  be  twenty- 
five  bushels  to  the  acre.     His  house  stands  on  the  margin  of 


OVERLAND    EXPEDITION    TO    SAN    FRANCISCO.  275 

a  small  stream,  and  answers  both  for  a  dwelling  and  a  grist- 
mill. 

When  breakfast  was  over,  our  friend   furnished   us  with 
horses,  and  we  rode  on  in  the  direction  of  the  encampment. 
We  passed  many  farms  of  from  thirty  to  one  hundred  acres, 
belonging  to  Canadians  who  had  been  in  the  service  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company  ;  they  liked  the  country,  and  appeared 
very  comfortable  and  thriving.     We  saw  a  large  mumber  of 
cattle,  horses,  and  sheep,  grazing  in  the  surrounding  fields. 
From  12  to  1  P.M.,  we  halted,  to  partake  of  dinner  and  rest  the 
horses ;  another  short  ride  brought  us  to  the  American  settle- 
ment.    There  were  many  things  here  to  remind  us  of  home ; 
among  others,  a  good  road,  well  inclosed  fields,  a  blacksmith- 
shop,  and  a  school-house.     This  is  the  largest  and  most  pros- 
perous settlement  in  all  Oregon.     It  is  situated  on  the  banks 
of  the  Willamette  River,  on  a  fertile  plain  of  many  miles  in 
extent ;  the  soil  is  adapted  to  the  growth  of  wheat,  rye,  and 
Irish  potatoes  ;  horned  cattle  and  sheep  also,  thrive  here  admi- 
rably.    The  climate  of  this  portion  of  Oregon  is  so  mild  that 
stock  is  never  kept  up  during  the  winter  months,  and  barns  are 
only  used  for  storing  the  grain.     The  Methodists  have  a  Mis- 
sion Station  here,  and  some  of  the  best  lands  are  owned  by  it. 
Near  the  settlement  we  forded  the  river,  and  shortly  after 
we  arrived  at  the  encampment  of  our  party.     We  were  glad 
to  find  that  the  sick  alluded  to  by  Mr.  Cone,  had  recovered, 
and  in  the  course  of  a  day  or  two  we  should  be  able  to  set 
out  on  our  intended  journey. 

On  Sunday,  the  Rev.  Mr.  Leslie  performed  Divine  Service 
at  his  residence,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  and  as  many 
of  our  oj05cers  attended  as  could  be  spared ;  Mr.  Leslie  is  a 
member  of  the  Methodist  Mi&sion  established  in  the  valley, 
and  enjoys  better  reputation  among  the  settlers  than  most  of 


276  OVERLAND    EXPEDITION    TO    SAN    FRANCISCO. 

the  other  mission  gentlemen.  He  is,  they  say,  the  only  Mis- 
sionary among  them  who  pays  any  attention  to  his  proper  du- 
ties ;  this  statement,  if  we  may  judge  the  tree  by  its  fruit, 
is  not  erroneous.  Most  of  these  gentleman  have  turned  their 
attention  to  farming,  and  think  more  about  their  crops  than 
they  do  of  the  great  cause  which  they  have  been  sent  out  to 
advance ;  the  number  of  Indian  children  to  whom  they  give 
instruction  does  not  exceed  twenty,  and  the  adult  Indians 
living  about  the  settlement,  are  entirely  neglected. 

On  the  8th  of  September  we  bade  adieu  to  the  banks  of  the 
Willamette.  A  complete  list  of  the  names  of  the  persons 
who  now  formed  the  party,  will  be  found  in  the  Appendix. 

At  first  we  had  our  share  of  drawbacks ;  a  thousand  things 
were  now  to  be  done,  which  had  not  been  thought  of  before, 
nor  could  they  have  been  foreseen.  Many  of  the  pack-saddles 
were  found  to  be  either  too  large  or  too  small ;  the  strength  of  a 
number  of  the  horses  had  been  overrated,  and  the  packs  which 
it  had  been  intended  they  should  carry,  had  in  consequence  to 
be  reduced  or  exchanged  for  others  which  were  lighter.  Then 
there  was  a  list  to  be  taken  of  all  the  packs  and  the  animals 
which  belonged  to  the  government,  and  those  which  did  not. 
All  this  produced  delay  and  confusion  for  a  time,  but,  when 
finally  all  was  right,  and  the  expedition  made  a  start,  it 
moved  on  at  a  fine  rate,  and  by  4  o'clock  P.  M.  we  reached 
Mr.  Turner's  place,  where  we  encamped  for  the  night. 

Mr.  Turner  supports  himself  by  supplying  the  Willamette 
settlement  with  beef  semi-weekly,  and  he  made  us  a  present 
of  a  fine  bullock.  He  is  a  native  of  New  York,  but  has  been 
thirteen  years  in  Oregon ;  has  an  Indian  woman  to  keep  house 
for  him,  and  seems  perfectly  contented.  He  has  been  to 
California  several  times,  and  in  1834  he  formed  one  of  a 
party  of  sixteen  settlers,  who  set  out  to  go  there  to  purchase 


OVERLAND    EXPEDITION    TO    SAN    FRANCISCO.  277 

cattle,  but  they  were  attacked  by  the  Indians  during  the  night, 
near  the  base  of  the  Shaste  Mountains,  and  ten  of  his  com- 
panions were  massacred.  Two  of  the  party  were  killed  im- 
mediately. Turner  was  seated  by  the  fire  when  the  savages 
rushed  into  the  camp ;  he  snatched  up  a  brand  and  defended 
himself  with  it  until  his  Indian  woman  brought  him  his  rifle, 
with  which  he  killed  four.  His  surviving  companions  had 
now  seized  their  fire-arms,  and  dealt  such  destruction  among 
the  Indians  that  they  at  last  retreated,  and  allowed  Turner 
and  his  five  companions  to  make  good  their  retreat  to  the 
settlement. 

We  were  detained  at  Turner's  place  all  thf^  next  day,  on 
account  of  two  of  the  horses  having  got  astray.  In  the  after- 
noon I  took  a  stroll,  and  fell  in  with  an  encampment  of  Cali- 
poya  Indians.  There  were  altogether  five  families  of  them, 
and  each  had  its  own  fire  and  tent.  They  were  miserably 
clad,  and  their  habitations  were  swarming  with  vermin.  The 
surrounding  country  was  perfectly  level,  and  produced  luxu- 
riant grasses  and  some  trees. 

On  the  10th  we  left  Mr.  Turner's  place,  and  directed  our 
steps  to  the  southward  and  eastward.  We  crossed  during 
this  day  several  small  streams,  which  are  tributary  to  the 
Willamette.  The  country  continued  level,  but  all  the  vegeta- 
tion, except  the  trees,  had  been  destroyed  by  fire,  said  to  have 
been  kindled  by  the  Prairie  Indians,  for  the  purpose  of  pro- 
curing a  certain  species  of  root,  which  forms  a  principal  part 
of  their  food.  We  spent  the  night  on  the  banks  of  a  creek, 
named  Igneas. 

At  9  o'clock  the  following  day  we  resumed  our  march,  and 
shortly  after  reached  Guardepii  Lake,  which  is  not  more  than 
a  mile  in  circumference.  In  the  course  of  the  afternoon  we 
crossed  Lumtumbufi"  River,  which  is  a  branch  of  the  Willa- 


278  OVERLAND    EXPEDITION    TO    SAN    FRANCISCO. 

mette.  It  is  a  deep  and  turbid  stream,  but  is  fordable  at 
certain  points. 

During  the  13th  it  was  very  foggy,  and  we  had  much  diffi- 
culty in  finding  the  animals.  Owing  to  this  circumstance  we 
advanced  this  day  only  two  miles  on  our  course.  At  this 
encampment  we  obtained  observations,  both  on  the  dip  and  in- 
tensity needles.  About  dusk  some  Calipoya  Indians  paid  us 
a  visit ;  they  proved  to  be  acquaintances  of  the  guide,  and  the 
meeting  seemed  to  be  one  which  afforded  mutual  pleasure  to 
both  parties.  He  represented  them  as  being  a  perfectly 
harmless  people,  and  there  was  nothing  in  their  appearance  to 
indicate  the  contrary.  They  were  clothed  in  deer-skins,  with 
fox-skin  caps,  or  cast-ofi*  clothing  of  the  whites.  Their  arms 
were  bows  and  arrows  ;  the  latter  were  pointed  with  bone,  and 
they  carried  them  in  a  quiver  made  of  seal-skin. 

On  the  morning  of  the  14th  we  resumed  our  journey,  and 
made  about  ten  miles  on  our  course.  The  soil  now  was  com- 
posed of  white  sand,  mixed  with  clay,  and  produced  only 
prairie  grass.  I  gave  this  day  to  one  of  the  scientific  gentle- 
men, Mr.  Dana,  a  beautiful  specimen  of  fresh-water  asticusy 
which  I  captured  in  the  stream,  upon  whose  banks  we 
encamped  for  the  night. 

On  the  15th  our  route  lay  through  a  broken  country,  densely 
covered  with  pines,  spruces,  and  oaks  ;  some  of  the  former 
were  upwards  of  two  hundred  feet  in  height,  and  proportionally 
large  in  circumference.  At  3.30  P.  M.  we  reached  the  base 
of  the  Elk  Mountains,  which  separate  the  valley  of  Willamette 
from  that  of  Umpquoa.  We  estimated  the  greatest  elevation 
of  these  mountains  to  be  1500  feet;  they  are  clotlied  with 
trees  and  underbrush  to  their  summit.  We  had  a  severe  frost 
during  the  night,  although  the  temperature  during  the  day 
had  been  as  high  as  77°  in  the  shade. 


The  EIL 


The  Deer, 


Th£  Black-tailed  Deer. 


OVERLAND    EXPEDITION    TO    SAN    FRANCISCO.  283 

H 

On  the  16  th  we  encamped  on  the  Elk  River.  This  river 
is  SO  called  because  its  banks  abound  in  elk ;  it  is  about  one- 
half  of  the  size  of  the  Willamette  River,  and  has  considerable 
current.  We  had  scarcely  pitched  our  tents,  when  some  of 
the  hunters  succeeded  in  killing  an  elk  and  a  deer.  They 
were  brought  into  camp,  and  divided  among  the  different  messes. 

The  following  morning,  Messrs.  Emmons,  Agate,  and  ser- 
geant Stearns,  with  Boileau  as  a  guide,  left  the  camp  for  Fort 
Umpquoa,  for  the  double  object  of  examining  the  country  and 
exchanging  several  of  the  pack-horses,  which  had  nearly  given 
out.  This  fort  belongs  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  is 
constructed  after  the  manner  of  those  of  Nisqually  and  Van- 
couver. It  is  situated  on  the  Umpquoa  River,  a  fine  stream, 
whicii  empties  into  the  ocean. 

The  Superintendent  of  the  establishment,  Mr.  Gangriere, 
gave  Mr.  Emmons  a  very  unfavorable  account  of  the  Indians 
who  inhabited  this  region.  He  stated  that  he  had  long  before 
heard  of  the  intended  journey,  through  the  Indians,  and  that 
the  news  had  passed  on  to  all  the  tribes,  who  were  collecting 
in  large  numbers,  to  oppose  our  passage.  He  also  endeavored 
to  dissuade  Mr.  Emmons  from  proceeding  any  further,  by 
telling  him  that  these  Indians  were  a  brave  race,  consequently 
in  the  event  of  an  attack,  our  party  must  be  destroyed,  for  he 
thought  it  was  very  small. 

According  to  our  hunters,  the  Umpquoa  country  abounds  in 
beaver,  deer,  and  bears.  About  dusk  Mr.  Emmons  returned, 
accompanied  by  Mesdames  Boileau  and  Gangriere,  who 
wished  to  see  the  camp,  and  consult  the  doctor.  He  commu- 
nicated to  the  party,  what  Mr.  Gangriere  had  stated  in  rela- 
tion to  the  Indians,  and  gave  orders  for  increasing  the  number 
of  sentries  about  the  camp,  to  make  more  cartridges,  and  to 
put  all  the  arras  in  the  best  fighting  condition. 


284  OVERLAND    EXPEDITION   TO    SAN    FRANCISCO. 

At  an  early  hour  on  the  ISth,  we  resumed  our  inarch. 
Mesdames  Boileau  and  Grangriere  accompanied  us  for  a  few 
miles,  and  then  left,  to  return  to  Fort  Umpquoa. 

On  the  19th  we  deviated  from  the  direct  road,  in  order  to 
avoid  any  chance  of  an  encounter  with  the  Indians.  This 
brought  us  to  the  north  fork  of  the  Umpquoa,  which  we  forded 
without  any  accident,  though,  before  making  the  attempt,  it 
was  reasonably  feared  that  we  might  meet  with  many,  from  the 
fact  that  the  current  was  very  rapid,  and  the  bottom  extremely 
slippery.  The  rocks  observed  in  this  region,  contain  fossils, 
and  occasionally  exhibit  seams  of  coal.  During  this  day 
many  friendly  Indians  were  seen,  who  reported  that  the  hos* 
tile  tribes  were  preparing  to  dispute  our  passage.  We  passed 
one  large  party,  composed  entirely  of  women,  who  were  out 
gathering  roots.  They  were  all  passe,  and  extremely  ugly. 
One  old  woman  can  only  be  described  by  Juvenal, — 

**  Such  wrinkles  see, 
As  in  an  Indian  forest's  solitude, 
Some  old  ape  scrubs  amidst  her  numerous  brood." 

During  the  20th,  our  route  lay  through  a  succession  of 
hills  and  valleys,  intersected  by  numerous  streams.  None  of 
the  hills  are  more  than  four  hundred  feet  in  height,  and  all  are 
susceptible  of  cultivation,  the  soil  being  apparently  as  good 
as  that  in  the  valleys.  We  saw,  in  the  course  of  this  day, 
several  grisly  bears,  and  the  hunters  fired  many  balls  at 
them  ;  but  they  did  not  succeed  in  killing  any.  At  sunset  we 
encamped  on  the  south  branch  cf  the  Umpquoa  River. 
During  the  night  our  rest  was  much  disturbed  by  the  howling 
of  wolves,  which  are  very  numerous  in  these  parts. 

The  following  day  we  crossed  the  Umpquoa  River;  it  is 
not  s^  broad  nor  so  deep  as  the  northern  branch.    We  passed, 


Thz  Common  Wolf, 


The  Dusky  Wolf, 


OVERLAND    EXPEDITION    TO    SAN    FRANCISCO.  287 

during  this  day's  ride,  a  number  of  Indian  graves ;  they  were 
surrounded  with  poles,  one  end  of  which  was  stuck  in  the 
ground,  to  the  other  were  suspended  the  goods  of  the  deceased, 
such  as  mats,  blankets,  bows,  and  arrows.  We  also  met 
several  small  parties  of  Umpquoa  Indians,  who  declared  them- 
selves to  be  friendly  to  the  whites,  and  were  anxious  to  obtain 
powder  and  balls,  but  we  refused  to  furnish  them.  We 
expected  an  attack  during  the  night,  from  the  hostile  tribes, 
and  had  prepared  to  give  them  a  warm  reception  ;  but  none 
appeared. 

On  the  22d,  at  an  early  hour,  we  commenced  to  ascend  the 
Umpquoa  Mountains.  The  path  was  narrow  and  very  steep, 
so  much  so,  that  several  of  the  pack-horses  stumbled  and 
were  considerably  injured.  At  11  A.  M.  we  halted,  for 
nearly  half  an  hour,  to  rest  the  animals.  At  4,  having 
reached  the  summit  of  the  ridge,  we  again  rested  for  a  few 
mhiutes,  and  then  commenced  descending,  and  by  sunset  we 
arrived  at  the  valley  beneath,  where  we  spent  the  night.  We 
found  the  greatest  elevation  of  the  mountain  to  be  1750  feet. 
During  the  23d,  we  remained  at  the  same  encampment,  in 
order  to  give  the  horses  time  to  recover  from  the  fatigue  under- 
gone, and  to  aiford  Mr.  Peale  an  opportunity  of  finding  his 
camera-lucida  and  drawings,  which  had  dropped  out  of  his 
carpet-bag,  while  crossing  the  mountains  yesterday.  At  3, 
he  returned,  and  brought  with  him  the  camera-lucida ;  the 
other  articles  he  was  unable  to  find.  We  observed,  in  the 
neighborhood  of  this  encampment,  a  considerable  number  of 
the  Pinus  Lambertiana  Douglas. 

On  the  24th  we  resumed  our  route.  The  country  looked 
much  less  inviting  than  it  did  on  the  other  side  of  the  moun- 
tain. Perhaps  the  contrast  would  not  have  been  so  striking, 
had  there  not  been  an  almost  entire  destitution  of  vegetation. 


288  OVERLAND    EXPEDITION    TO    SAN    FRANCISCO. 

the  fire  having  destroyed  everything  but  the  trees.  The 
rocks  are  intersected  with  veins  of  quartz,  and  the  soil  is 
sandy  and  generally  of  a  light-red  color. 

In  the  course  of  the  day,  the  hunters  discovered  the  fresh 
foot-prints  of  Indians,  and  in  searching  for  the  savages,  they 
came  upon  three  squaws,  who  had  been  left,  when  the  others 
fled.  It  was  clear  that  the  savages  were  closely  watching  our 
movements,  and  only  waited  for  a  good  opportunity  to  pounce 
upon  us.  At  4  P.  M.  we  arrived,  and  encamped  on  the 
banks  of  Young's  Creek,  where  we  found  a  party  of  Klamet 
Indians  ;  they  looked  very  innocent,  and  pretended  to  be  glad 
to  see  us  ;  but  the  guide  represented  them  as  being  the  most 
rascally  set  in  all  Oregon — ^calling  them  horse- thieves,  robbers, 
and  murderers. 

During  the  25th  and  26th,  our  road  lay  through  an  undu- 
lating country,  interspersed  with  forests  of  the  Pinus  Lamber- 
tiana.  I  tasted  the  sugar  produced  by  this  singular  tree,  and 
found  it  to  be  slightly  bitter.  It  is  a  powerful  cathartic,  yet 
I  was  told  that  the  trappers  used  it  as  a  substitute  for  sugar ; 
the  Indian  mode  of  collecting  it  is  to  burn  a  cavity  in  the 
tree,  whence  it  exudes  in  large  quantities.  We  passed,  on 
the  last  of  these  days,  Tootootutnas  River,  another  beautiful 
stream,  upwards  of  one  hundred  yards  in  width,  and  abound- 
ing in  salmon  and  other  fish.  The  land,  a  few  hundred 
yards  from  its  banks,  rises  into  hills  of  considerable  height, 
formed  principally  of  granite  sand. 

Several  Indians  came  about  the  camp  and  pretended  to  be 
friendly,  but  we  placed  no  confidence  in  their  professions,  and 
sent  them  away  before  night  came  on.  They  had  canoes  with 
which  they  navigated  the  neighboring  streams,  but  they  were 
very  rude,  and  dug  out  square  at  the  extremes. 

During  both  these  days  most  of  the  gentlemen  of  the  party 


^ 

;;m|^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^B 

^ 

M^m. 

B 

y^^^^^^^BB^^^jl^^^^^;l 

B 

^^^^■^ 

IHB^tt^Hp 

^B| 

w^^^Sm 

^3^^^^^S 

^E' 

^^^^OBK^^^^m 

^^^^s^BB^^^^^? 

^^^5. 

^^^H 

^^^^^BJ^^^^p 

p 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^gl^^^^^^^ 

T/^  j5wo7i. 

^ff 

^pf 

# 

^m 

^^^tol^ 

-«g^^^^^^^^^^^ 

\||B^ 

HHIH^^IiH^ 

^1 

^^^^^HP 

^ 

^^» 

-^ 

The  Antelope. 

OVERLAND    EXPEDITION    TO    SAN    FRANCISCO.  291 

and  several  of  tlie  sailors  suffered  excessively  from  attacks  of 
the  ague.  In  my  own  case,  the  chills  were  so  violent,  that  it 
was  impossible  to  travel  while  they  lasted. 

On  the  27 th,  we  reached  one  of  those  places  where  it  was 
said  the  Indians  never  failed  to  make  their  attacks.  We  had 
one  man  in  the  party  who  had  been  twice  assaulted  at  the 
same  place.  It  was  a  steep  rocky  spot,  close  by  the  river 
Tootootutnas.  As  we  passed  on,  many  armed  Indians  were 
observed  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  stream,  and,  occasionally, 
were  heard  to  utter  yells,  which  were  absolutely  infernal,  but 
they  did  not  attempt  to  oppose  our  progress.  We  were  fully 
prepared  for  them,  and,  it  was  this,  no  doubt,  which  prevented 
their  making  an  assault.  Even  the  wives  of  the  hunters  were 
armed  on  the  occasion. 

We  saw  this  day  a  great  variety  of  game,  among  which  was 
the  antelope.  It  is  said  the  Indians  take  this  animal  by  ex- 
citing its  curiosity ;  for  this  purpose,  they  conceal  themselves 
behind  a  tree,  or  among  the  bushes,  and  making  a  rustling 
noise,  the  attention  of  the  animal  is  soon  attracted,  when  it  is 
led  to  advance  toward  the  place  of  concealment,  until  the 
fatal  arrow  pierces  it.  The  animal  strongly  resembles  the 
deer,  and  its  flesh  is  very  palatable.  According  to  the  hunters, 
they  are  found  only  in  the  prairies. 

On  the  29th,  we  crossed  the  boundary  range  which  separates 
Oregon  from  Upper  California.  The  greatest  elevation  of  the 
range  was  found  to  be  2,000  feet.  The  ascent  was  steep  and 
tedious,  and  every  moment  we  expected  to  be  attacked  by 
hostile  Indians.  The  hunter  named  Tibbats,  was  one  of  a 
large  party  which  was  nearly  destroyed  by  the  savages  three 
years  before.  ,  He  flattered  himself  that  he  should  now  have 
an  opportunity  to  take  his  revenge  on  them,  but  he  was 
not  gratified,  as  not  an  Indian  was  to  be  seen  in  passing  the 


292  OVERLAND    EXPEDITION    TO    SAN    FRANCISCO. 

mountain,  although  they  had  evidently  intended  to  attack  us  ; 
fresh  tracks  were  observable  in  every  direction,  and  large 
trees  felled  across  the  path  to  prevent  the  party  from  ad- 
vancing. 

On  arriving  at  the  summit  of  the  range,  we  obtained  a  view 
which  more  than  repaid  us  for  our  trouble.  The  Shaste 
Mountains  with  their  snowy  peaks,  were  to  be  seen  some  fifty 
miles  to  the  southward,  swelling  and  soaring  to  the  skies, 
while  the  Klamet  Valley  into  which  we  descended,  like  that  in 
which  the  poet  built  his  Castle  of  Indolence,  was 

**  A  lonely  dale  fast  by  the  river  side. 
And  was,  I  ween,  a  lovely  spot  of  ground." 

This  valley  is  watered  by  the  Klamet  River,  and  is  bounded 
on  all  sides  with  hills  of  considerable  elevation,  rising  one  be- 
yond the  other,  and  covered  with  forests  of  oak,  which  added 
materially  to  the  picturesque  beauty  of  the  scene. 

During  the  30th,  we  remained  encamped  to  enable  the  sick 
to  recover  from  the  fatigue  undergone  in  crossing  the  moun- 
tains. Near  this  camping-place  was  found  an  Indian  hut 
constructed  of  bent  twigs ;  it  was  small  and  extremely  low. 
The  temperature  in  the  shade  during  the  day  was  100°,  at 
night,  it  was  32°.  No  doubt  these  great  and  sudden  changes 
in  the  atmosphere  tended  to  aggravate  the  ague  attacks  from 
which  we  sufiered  during  the  journey. 

On  the  1st  of  October  the  sick  were  much  better,  and  we 
pursued  our  way.  At  10  A.  M.  we  forded  the  Klamet  River, 
where  it  was  about  seventy  yards  broad  ;  it  was  between  three 
and  four  feet  deep,  with  a  beautiful  pebbly  bottom.  There 
were  rapids  both  above  and  below  the  ford,  and  from  the 
appearance  of  the  banks,  it  is  subject  to  overflow.  After 
crossing  the  river,  masses  of  volcanic  rock  were  observable  in 


OVERLAND    EXPEDITION    TO    SAN    FRANCISCO.  293 

all  directions,  and  the  soil  was  dry  and  barren.  At  sunset 
we  pitched  our  tents  on  a  spot  of  green  grass,  near  the  southern 
branch  of  the  Klamet  River,  which  is  likewise  a  beautiful 
stream,  and  abounds  in  fish. 

The  Indians  found  here  were  well  disposed  and  better  look- 
ing than  any  we  had  seen  before.  They  supplied  us  with 
some  salmon  which  were  of  a  whitish  color,  and  greatly  in- 
ferior in  flavor  to  those  taken  in  the  Columbia.  They  were 
also  willing  to  sell  their  bows  and  arrows,  which  were  neatly 
made,  and  several  were  purchased  for  the  Government. 

October  2d,  9  A.  M.,  we  bade  adieu  to  Klamet  River,  and 
directed  our  steps  to  the  southward.  The  country  was  now 
more  undulating,  and  apparently  more  fertile,  than  that  we 
passed  over  the  preceding  day.  We  did  not  meet  with  any 
water  till  late  in  the  day,  in  consequence  of  which,  the  poor 
animals  suffered  excessively  from  thirst.  Large  herds  of  an- 
telopes and  mountain-sheep  were  seen ;  the  latter  are  of  a 
grayish  color,  have  long  spreading  horns,  and  are  much  larger 
animals  than  the  ordinary  sheep. 

From  the  3d  and  up  to  the  10th,  we  were  engaged  in  cross- 
ing the  Shaste  Range.  These  mountains  may  be  represented 
as  being  a  succession  of  a  range  of  high  hills,  separated  from 
each  other  by  narrow  valleys,  traversed  by  streams  that  are 
fed  by  the  melting  snows  which  cover  the  tops  of  the  highest 
peaks.  The  path  was  serpentine  and  dijfficult,  and  several  of 
the  horses  broke  down  before  the  summit  of  the  last  range 
could  be  gained.  In  the  valleys  the  Pinus  Lambertiana  was 
seen  flourishing  in  all  its  glory  ;  several  trees  were  measured, 
and  found  to  be  three  hundred  feet  in  height. 

The  day  after  we  commenced  to  ascend  these  mountains, 
we  fell  in  with  the  head  waters  of  the  Sacramento,  which  flow 
to   the    southward.      At  this   point  it  was  an  insignificant 


294  OVERLAND    EXPEDITION    TO    SAN    FRANCISCO, 

stream,  being  not  more  than  thirty  feet  broad  and  two  feet 
deep. 

The  weather,  with  the  exception  of  that  of  a  single  day,  was 
cool,  clear  and  bracing,  and  we  all  enjoyed  much  better  health 
than  while  traversing  the  plains.  Nor  was  there  any  want  of 
game  ;  indeed,  some  days  our  hunters  killed  more  than  it  was 
possible  for  the  company  to  consume.  The  scientific  gentle- 
men made  large  collections  in  their  respective  departments. 

We  saw  many  Indians,  and  as  we  knew  they  were  friendly ; 
we  permitted  them  to  enter  our  camp.  They  are  a  large, 
fine-looking  race,  and  of  a  sociable  disposition.  They  do  not 
compress  their  heads,  and  they  allow  their  hair,  which  is  fine 
and  glossy,  to  hang  down  to  their  shoulders  in  natural  ringlets. 
Their  food  consists  of  game,  fish,  and  acorns,  which  they  make 
into  bread.  Their  huts  are  small,  and  devoid  of  comfort. 
They  have  bows  and  arrows,  with  which  they  shoot  admirably. 
An  ordinary  sized  button  was  set  up  as  a  mark  thirty  yards 
off",  and  they  hit  it  three  times  out  of  five ;  they  can  also  kill 
birds  on  the  wing.  The  arrows  are  nearly  three  feet  long, 
and  feathered  frojn  six  to  ten  inches.  In  shooting,  the  bow  is 
held  horizontally,  braced  by  the  thumb  of  the  left  hand,  and 
drawn  by  the  thumb  and  three  fingers  of  the  right  hand  ;  and 
to  obviate  the  disadvantage  of  drawing  to  the  breast,  the  chest 
is  thrown  backwards  on  discharging  the  arrow ;  they  throw 
out  the  right  leg,  and  stand  on  the  left. 

The  few  women  we  saw  were  much  inferior  in  personal  ap- 
pearance to  the  men,  which  we  attributed  to  hard  work,  for 
they  seemed  to  be  constantly  employed,  while  the  men  did 
nothing  but  eat,  drink,  and  amuse  themselves.  The  artist  of 
the  party  had  much  difficulty  in  taking  their  portraits,  as  they 
imagined  that  he  was  a  medicine-man,  and  desired  to  practise 
some  enchantment  upon  them. 


The  Ruffed  Grouse 


The  Pellican. 


The  Black  Bear, 


The  Grisky  Bear, 


OVERLAND    EXPEDITION    TO    SAN    FRANCISCO.  299 

It  was  calculated  that  the  width  of  the  range  we  passed 
over  was  one  hundred  miles.  We  were  allured  from  height  to 
height  by  many  splendid  views  of  land  and  water,  which  open 
at  every  turn  of  the  pass ;  still  we  felt  quite  relieved  when 
we  reached  the  Sacramento  Valley  on  the  other  side  of  the 
mountain,  and  reflected  that  the  remainder  of  our  journey 
would  be  comparatively  easy,  and  devoid  of  the  anxiety  caused 
by  the  constant  anticipation  of  being  assaulted  by  hostile 
tribes. 

On  reaching  the  Sacramento  Valley,  a  material  difference 
was  observed  in  the  character  of  the  vegetation.  Few  pines 
or  firs  were  now  to  be  seen,  while  the  oak,  the  sycamore,  and 
the  cotton-wood  trees  were  abundant.  Most  of  the  plants 
were  also  unlike  any  we  had  been  accustomed  to  see,  and 
some  were  found  which  were  not  described  in  any  of  the 
botanical  works- 

On  the  10th  we  fell  in  with  several  villages  belonging  to 
the  Kinkla  tribe  of  Indians ;  they  consisted  of  a  few  rude 
huts  constructed  of  poles — the  whole  surrounded  by  a  brush- 
fence,  which  answered  for  a  stockade.  Most  of  the  inhabi- 
tants were  out  gathering  acrons  and  wild  grapes.  Their 
complexion  was  quite  dark,  but  their  features  are  more  regu- 
lar than  those  of  the  northern  tribes.  Some  were  seen  who 
had  the  Roman  nose  and  oval  face.  They  wore  their  hair 
long,  but  had  it  tied  in  a  bunch  behind.  Their  ears  were 
bored,  and  the  upper  part  of  each  cheek  had  a  triangular 
figure  painted  upon  it  with  a  blue-black  substance.  It  was 
also  observed  that  they  tattooed  their  arms.  They  had  nothing 
to  coygr  their  nakedness,  except  a  piece  of  deer-skin  thrown 
over  their  shoulders.  Their  weapons  were  bows  and  arrows, 
and  a  forked-spear  which  they  use  to  kill  fish. 

Within  half  a  mile  of  one  of  the  villages  our  hunters  killed 


800  OVERLAND    EXPEDITION    TO    SAN    FRANCISCO. 

two  grisly  bears.  It  is  said  this  animal  is  very  numerous  in 
these  parts,  and  not  unfrequently  enter  the  Indian  villages, 
and  carry  off  stray  children.  The  soil  of  this  portion  of  the 
valley  is  of  an  inferior  quality,  and  bears  but  few  trees  or 
plants. 

On  the  12th  we  forded  the  Sacramento  River,  where  it  was 
between  three  and  four  feet  deep  and  two  hundred  yards 
broad.  It  had  been  our  intention  to  have  disposed  of  the 
horses  here,  and  proceed  down  the  river  in  canoes,  but  these 
were  not  to  be  had,  nor  could  we  find  suitable  timber  from 
which  to  make  them  ourselves.  The  soil  now  appeared  more 
fertile,  though  we  saw  little  vegetation,  on  account  of  the 
country  having  been  run  over  by  fire. 

Game  was  very  plentiful,  and  five  bears  were  killed  in  the 
course  of  the  afternoon. 

During  the  14th  and  15th  we  traveled  over  a  plain  studded 
with  a  vast  number  of  crater-shaped  hills,  which  go  by  the 
name  of  Prairie  Butes.  It  is  generally  believed  that  each  of 
these  has  been  a  volcano.  They  can  be  seen  at  a  great  dis- 
tance, as  they  have  an  elevation  of  from  five  hundred  to 
eighteen  hundred  feet;  the  ground  about  them  is  strewed 
with  a  great  quantity  of  bones  of  animals  that  resort  here  for 
protection  during  the  season  of  the  freshets,  which  flood  the 
whole  of  the  level  country ;  a  deposit  of  considerable  thick- 
ness covered  the  surface.  The  rocks  forming  some  of  the 
butes  were  of  a  volcanic  origin.  A  great  number  of  wild  fowl 
were  seen  on  both  of  these  days. 

On  the  17th  we  reached  Feather  River,  which  is  a  tributary 
to  the  Sacramento.  As  we  were  unable  to  find  a  place  where 
it  would  be  safe  to  ford  it,  we  proceeded  down  its  bank,  and 
at  sunset  we  encamped  near  its  junction  with  the  Sacramento 
River.     It  is  a  more  rapid  stream  than  the  Sacramento,  but 


CAPTAIN    SUTTEr's   PLACE,    OR   NEW    HELVATIA.         SOI 

its  volume  of  water  is  considerably  less.  Its  banks  are  from 
ten  to  fifteen  feet  high,  and  fringed  with  the  sycamore  and 
cotton-wood  trees.     It  is  navigable  for  boats. 

The  18th  brought  us  to  Captain  Sutter's  place,  or  New 
Helvatia,  where  we  found  the  "  Vincennes' "  launch,  in  which 
Messrs.  Emmons,  Dana,  Agate,  Dr.  Whittle  and  myself 
embarked,  and  proceeded  down  to  San  Francisco.  The  rest 
of  the  party  set  out  to  reach  San  Francisco  by  land. 

Captain  Sutter^  is  a  native  of  Switzerland,  and  has  lived  a 
most  eventful  life.  He  was  a  lieutenant  in  the  Swiss  Guards 
in  the  time  of  Charles  X.  Soon  after  the  abdication  of  that 
monarch,  he  resigned  his  commission,  and  came  over  to  the 
United  States,  and  resided  several  years  in  St.  Charles,  Mis- 
souri. 

We  were  most  hospitably  and  kindly  received  by  him ;  there 
was  no  ostentatious  display,  no  pomp  nor  ceremony,  but  an 
easy  and  polite  demeanor  on  the  part  of  our  host,  that  made 
us  feel  perfectly  at  home.  He  has  been  two  years  in  Califor- 
nia, and  he  informed  us  that  he  has  obtained  from  the  Govern- 
ment a  conditional  grant  of  ninety  miles  square  in  the  Valley 
of  the  Sacramento.  The  location  he  has  chosen  for  the  erection 
of  his  dwelling  and  fort  he  has  called  New  Helvatia.  It  is 
situated  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Sacramento  river,  and  about 
sixty  miles  from  its  mouth  ;  his  buildings  are  constructed  of 
adobes,  and  cover  a  large  extent  of  ground.  He  has  com- 
menced extensive  operations  in  farming,  and  the  extent  of  his 
stock  amounts  to  two  thousand  sheep,  three  thousand  cattle, 
and  about  one  thousand  horses. 

As  we  approached  the  settlement,  we  passed  the  village  of 
Indians  who  live  on  the  farm  and  work  it,  with  whose  appear- 

♦  It  is  well  known  that  to  his  enterprise  in  erecting  a  mill,  the  first  gold  discovery 
in  California  was  attributed. 


802        CAPTAIN  Sutter's  place,  or  new  helvatia. 

ance  I  was  much  disappointed,  in  consequence  of  the  filthiness 
of  their  looks ;  they  are  amply  provided  with  the  necessaries 
of  life  by  Captain  Sutter,  but  their  natural  inclination  and 
habits  are  such  as  to  prevent  their  advancement  in  civilized 
life. 

Besides  farming.  Captain  Sutter  is  engaged  in  trapping, 
and  distilling  a  kind  of  liquor  resembling  Pisco,  from  the  wild 
grape  of  the  country. 

On  the  19th  of  October  we  arrived  at  San  Francisco  Bay, 
where  we  found  the  "  Vincennes.''  The  overland  detachment 
arrived  in  the  afternoon  of  the  24th. 

The  Valley  of  Sacramento  is  one  hundred  and  seventy  miles 
long  and  from  twenty  to  sixty  miles  wide.  Having  heard  much 
of  its  fruitfulness,  we  expected,  on  entering  it,  to  see  a  perfect 
garden ;  but  such  was  not  the  case.  On  the  contrary,  we  saw 
but  little  good  land ;  and  as  for  the  landscape,  it  was  extremely 
uninteresting,  being  utterly  devoid  of  either  beauty  or  variety. 
The  river  is  navigable  for  vessels  of  sixty  tons  burthen,  as  far 
as  New  Helvatia,  and  for  boats  and  canoes,  seventy  miles 
farther.  The  banks  are  nowhere  over  twenty  feet  in  height, 
and  are  lined  with  sycamore  and  cotton-wood  trees  ;  some  of 
which  are  of  large  dimensions. 

San  Francisco  Bay  is  an  extensive  body  of  water,  studded 
with  many  islands,  which  look  as  fresh  and  verdant  as  nature 
can  make  them.  It  communicates  with  the  ocean  by  a  nar- 
row passage,  bounded  on  either  side  by  rocky  cliffs.  The  name 
of  the  principal  town  is  Yerba-buena ;  it  is  located  near  the 
entrance,  and  contains  about  thirty  buildings  of  one  story  high, 
constructed  of  adobes.  The  trade  is  limited  to  eight  or  ten 
vessels  ;  these  lay  at  their  anchors  until  they  retail  out  their 
cargoes,  by  which  means  part  of  the  duties,  which  are  very 
onerous  on  all  landed  articles,  ar'5  saved. 


CALIFORNIA    AFTER    THE    DISCOVERY    OF    GOLD.  303 

Such  was  San  Francisco  at  the  time  of  our  visit ;  since 
then  the  whole  of  California  has  undergone  surprising  changes, 
which  cannot  be  better  described  than  in  the  words  of  Mr. 
Walter  Colton,  author  of  "  Deck  and  Port,"  and  "  Three 
Years  in  California." 

"  The  Bay  of  San  Francisco  resembles  a  broad  inland  lake, 
communicating  by  a  narrow  channel  with  the  ocean.  This 
channel,  as  the  tradition  of  the  Aborigines  runs,  was  opened 
by  an  earthquake,  which  a  few  centuries  since  convulsed  the 
continent.  The  town  is  built  on  the  south  bend  of  the  bay, 
near  its  communication  with  the  sea.  Its  site  is  a  succession 
of  barren  sand-hills,  tumbled  up  into  every  variety  of  shape. 
No  leveling  process,  on  a  scale  of  any  magnitude,  has  been 
attempted.  The  buildings  roll  up  and  over  these  sand-ridges 
like  a  shoal  of  porpoises  over  the  swell  of  a  wave,  only  the  fish 
has  much  the  most  order  in  the  disposal  of  his  head  and  tail. 
More  incongruous  combinations  in  architecture  never  danced 
in  the  dreams  of  men — brick  warehouses,  wooden  shanties, 
sheet-iron  huts,  and  shaking-tents,  are  blended  in  admirable 
confusion. 

"  But  these  grotesque  habitations  have  as  much  uniformity 
and  sobriety  as  the  habits  of  those  who  occupy  them.  Hazards 
are  made  in  commercial  transactions,  and  projects  of  specula- 
tion that  would  throw  Wall  Street  into  spasms.  I  have  seen 
merchants  purchase  cargoes  without  having  even  glanced  into 
the  invoice.  The  conditions  of  the  sale  were  a  hundred  per 
cent,  profits  to  the  owner,  and  costs.  In  one  cargo;  when 
tumbled  out,  were  found  twenty  thousand  dollars  in  the  single 
article  of  red  cotton  handkercliiefs !  'I'll  get  rid  of  these 
among  the  wild  Indians,'  said  the  purchaser,  with  a  shrug  of 
the  shoulders. — '  Pve  a  water  lot  which  I  will  sell,'  cries 
another.     '  Which  way  does  it  stretch?'  inquire  half-a-dozen. 


304  CALIFORNIA    AFTER   THE    DISCOVERY    OF    GOLD. 

^  Right  under  the  craft  there/  is  the  reply.  '  And  what  do 
you  ask  for  itV  '  Fifteen  thousand  dollars.'  '  I'll  take  it.' 
'  Then  down  with  the  dust.'  So  the  water  lot,  which  mortal 
eyes  never  yet  beheld,  changes  its  owners,  without  changing 
its  fish. 

" '  I  have  two  shares  in  a  gold-mine,'  cries  another. 
'Where  are  they?'  inquire  the  crowd.  'Under  the  south 
branch  of  the  Yuba  River,  which  we  have  almost  turned,'  is 
the  reply.  'And  what  will  you  take?'  'Fifteen  thousand 
dollars.'  '  I'll  give  ten.'  '  Take  it,  stranger.'  So  the  two 
shares  of  a  possibility  of  gold,  under  a  branch  of  the  Yuba, 
where  the  water  still  rolls,  rapid  and  deep,  are  sold  for  ten 
thousand  dollars,  paid  down.  Is  there  anything  in  the  '  Jira- 
hian  JYights^  that  surpasses  this  ? 

"  But  glance  at  the  large  wooden  building  which  looks  as  if 
the  winds  had  shingled  it,  and  the  powers  of  the  air  pinned  its 
clapboards  in  a  storm.  Enter,  and  you  find  a  great  hall  filled 
with  tables,  and  a  motley  group  gathered  around  each.  Some 
are  laying  down  hundreds,  and  others  thousands,  on  the  turn 
of  a  card.  Each  has  a  bag  of  grain-gold  in  his  hand,  which 
he  must  double  or  lose,  and  is  only  anxious  to  reach  the  table 
where  he  can  make  the  experiment.  You  would  advise  him  at 
least  to  purchase  a  suit  of  clothes,  or  repair  his  old  ones, 
before  he  loses  his  all ;  but  what  cares  he  for  his  outward 
garb,  when  piles  of  the  yellow  dust  swell  and  glitter  in  his 
excited  imagination?  Down  goes  his  bag  of  gold — and  is 
lost !  But  does  he  look  around  for  a  rope,  or  pistol,  that  he 
may  end  his  ruin  1  No :  the  river-bank  where  he  gathered 
that  gold  has  more  ;  so  he  cheers  his  momentary  despondency 
with  a  strong  glass  of  brandy,  and  is  off  again  for  the  mines. 
He  found  the  gold  by  good  fortune  and  has  lost  it  by  bad,  and 
now  considers  himself  about  even  with  the  world.     Such  is 


CALIFORNIA    AFTER   THE    DISCOVERY    OF    GOLD.  305 

the  moral  effect  of  gold-hunting  on  a  man  whose  principles  are 
not  as  fixed  and  immovable  as  the  rock.  It  begins  in  a 
lottery  and  ends  in  a  lottery,  where  the  blanks  out-number 
the  prizes  ten  to  one. 

"  But  you  are  hungry — want  a  breakfast — turn  into  a  re- 
staurant— call  for  ham,  eggs,  and  coffee — then  your  bill.  Six 
dollars !  Your  high  boots,  which  have  never  seen  a  brush 
since  you  first  put  them  on,  have  given  out ;  you  find  a  pair 
that  can  replace  them ;  they  are  a  tolerable  fit ;  and  now 
what  is  the  price?  Fifty  dollars  !  Your  beard  has  not  felt  a 
razor  since  you  went  to  the  mines  ;  it  must  come  off,  and  your 
frizzled  hair  be  clipped.  You  find  a  barber  ;  his  dull  shears 
hang  in  the  knots  of  your  hair,  like  a  sheep-shearer's  in  a 
fleece  matted  with  burrs.  The  razor  he  straps  on  the  leg  of 
his  boot,  and  then  hauls  away,  starting  at  every  pull  some  new 
fountain  of  tears.  You  vow  you  will  let  the  beard  go,  but  then 
one  side  is  partly  off,  and  you  try  the  agony  again  to  get  the 
other  side  something  like  it.  And  now  what  is  the  charge  for 
this  torture  ?  Four  dollars  ! .  Night  is  approaching,  and  you 
must  have  a  place  where  you  can  sleep.  To  inquire  for  a 
bed  would  be  as  idle  as  to  hunt  a  pearl  in  the  jungle  of  a 
Greenland  bear.  You  look  around  for  the  lee  of  some  shanty 
or  tent,  and  tumble  down  for  the  night ;  but  a  thousand  fleas 
dispute  the  premises  with  you — the  contest  is  hopeless ;  you 
tumble  out  as  you  tumble  in,  and  spend  the  remainder  of  the 
night  in  finding  a  place  not  occupied  by  these  aborigines  of 
the  soil. 

''  But  you  are  not  perhaps  a  gold-digger,  as  I  had  supposed. 
You  are  a  supercargo,  and  have  a  valua,ble  freight  which  you 
wish  to  land.  You  have  warped  your  vessel  in  till  her  keel 
rakes,  and  yet  you  are  several  hundred  yards  off.  Some 
lighter  must  be  found  that  can  skim  these  shallows — your 


80ft         CALIFORNIA    AFTER    THE    DISCOVERY    OF   GOLD. 

own  boats  will  not  do.  After  waiting  two  or  three  weeks 
you  get  the  use  of  a  scow,  called  a  lighter^  for  which  you  pay 
one  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  a  day. 

^'  To-morrow  you  are  going  to  commence  unloading,  and  wake 
betimes  ;  but  find,  that,  during  the  night,  every  soul  of  your 
crew  has  escaped,  and  put  out  for  the  mines.  You  rush  about 
on  shore  to  find  hands,  and  collect  eight  or  ten  loafers,  who 
will  assist  you  for  fifteen  dollars  a-day  each.  Your  cargo 
must  be  landed,  and  you  close  the  bargain,  though  your  fresh 
hands  are  already  half-seas  over.  The  scow  is  shoved  from 
shore,  brought  along-side,  loaded  with  goods,  which  are  tumbled 
in  as  an  Irishman  dumps  a  load  of  dirt,  and  then  with  your  oar 
and  poles,  push  for  the  landing ;  but  the  tide  has  ebbed  too 
soon  ;  you  are  only  half-way,  and  there  your  scow  sticks  fast 
in  the  midst  of  a  great  mud  bottom,  from  which  the  last  rip- 
ple of  water  has  retreated.  You  cannot  get  forward,  and  you 
are  now  too  late  to  get  back ;  night  is  setting  in,  and  the  rain 
clouds  are  gathering  fast — down  comes  a  deluge,  drenching 
your  goods  and  filling  your  open  scow.  The  returning  tide 
will  now  be  of  no  use — the  scow  wont  float  except  under  water, 
and  that  is  a  sort  of  floating  which  don't  suit  you  ;  skin  for 
skin — though  in  this  case  not  dry — what  will  a  man  not  give 
for  his  own  life  ?  So,  out  you  jump,  and  by  crawling  and 
creeping,  make  your  way  through  the  mire  to  the  landing,  and 
bring  up  against  a  bin,  where  another  sort  of  wallower  gives 
you  a  grunt  of  welcome.  Your  loafers  must  be  paid  off  in  the 
morning  and  the  scow  recovered,  or  its  loss  will  cost  you  half 
the  profits  of  your  voyage.  But  the  storm  last  night  has  driven 
another  brig  into  yours,  and  there  they  both  are,  like  a  bear 
and  bull,  that  have  gored  and  crushed  each  other.  But 
'  misery  loves  company,'  and  you  have  it.  The  storm  which 
swamped  your  scow  and  stove  your  brig  last  night,  has  been 


CALIFORNIA    AFTER   THE    DISCOVERY    OF    GOLD.  307 

busy  on  shore.  Piles  of  goods  heaped  up  in  every  street,  are 
in  a  condition  which  requires  wreckers,  as  well  as  watchmen. 
But  no  one  here  is  going  to  trouble  himself  about  your  mis- 
fortunes, nor  much  about  his  own.  The  reverses  of  to-day 
are  to  be  more  than  repaired  by  the  successes  of  to-morrow. 
These  are  only  the  broken  pick-axes  and  spades  by  which  the 
great  mine  is  to  be  reached.  What  is  the  loss  of  a  few  thou- 
sands to  one  who  is  so  soon  to  possess  millions  ?  Only  a  coon 
back  in  his  hole,  while  the  buffalo  remains  within  rifle  shot — 
only  a  periwinkle  lost,  while  the  whale  is  beneath  the  harpoon 
— only  a  farthing  candle  consumed,  while  the  dowered  bride, 
blushing  in  beauty  and  bhss,  is  kneeling  at  the  nuptial  altar. 
But  let  that  pass. 

"  But  you  are  not  alone  in  your  destitution  and  dirt.  There 
are  hundreds  around  you  who  were  quite  as  daintily  reared, 
and  who  are  doing  here  what  they  dodged  at  home.  Do  you 
see  that  youth  in  red  flannel  shirt  and  coarse  brogans,  rolling 
a  wheel-barrow  1  He  was  a  clerk  in  a  counting-house  in 
New  York,  and  came  here  to  shovel  up  gold,  as  you  scoop  up 
sand.  He  has  been  to  the  mines,  gathered  no  gold,  and  re- 
turned, but  now  makes  his  ten  dollars  a- day  by  rolling  that 
wheel-barrow  ;  it  costs  him  six,  however,  to  live,  and  the  other 
four  he  loses  at  monte. 

"  See  you  that  young  man  with  a  long  whip  ni  his  hand, 
cracking  it  over  an  ox-team  ?  He  was  one  of  the  most  learned 
geologists,  for  his  age,  in  the  United  States,  and  came  out 
here  to  apply  his  science  to  the  discovery  of  gold  deposits  ; 
but,  somehow,  his  diving-rods  always  dipped  wrong,  and  now, 
he  has  taken  about  which  there  is  no  mistake,  so  at  least  think 
his  cattle.  He  would  accumulate  a  fortune,  did  he  not  lose 
it  as  fast  as  made  in  some  phrenzied  speculation.  But  look 
yonder — do  you  see  that  young  gentleman  with  a  string  of 


808  CALIFORNIA    AFTER   THE    DISCOVERY    OF    GOLD. 

fish,  which  he  offers  for  sale  ?  He  was  one  of  the  best  Greek 
and  Latin  scholars  of  his  class  in  Yale  College,  and,  subse- 
quently, one  of  the  most  promising  Members  of  our  Bar.  But 
he  exchanged  his  Blackstone  for  a  pick,  and,  instead  of  pick- 
ing fees  out  of  his  clients'  pockets,  he  came  here  to  pick  gold 
out  of  the  mines  ;  but,  the  deuce  was  it,  for  whenever  his 
pick  struck  close  upon  a  deposit,  it  wa^  no  longer  there ;  so 
he  exchanged  his  pick  for  a  hook  and  line,  and  now  angles  for 
pike,  pickerel,  and  perch,  and  can  describe  each  fish  by  some 
apt  line  from  Catulus.  He  would  do  well  at  his  new  pisca- 
tory profession  but  for  the  gilded  hook  of  the  gambler.  He 
laughs  at  the  trout  for  darting  at  a  fictitious  fly,  and  then  chases 
a  bait  himself  equally  fanciful  and  false. 

"  But  look  again — do  you  see  that  pulperia,  with  its  gathered 
groups  of  soldiers  and  sailors,  poets  and  politicians,  merchants 
and  mendicants,  doctors  and  draymen,  clerks  and  cobblers, 
trappers  and  tinkers  ?  That  little  man  who  stands  behind  the 
bar,  and  deals  to  each  his  dram  of  fire,  was  once  a  preacher, 
and  deemed  almost  a  prophet,  as  he  depicted  the  pangs  of  that 
worm  which  dieth  not,  but  now  he  has  exchanged  that  worm 
for  another,  but  preserved  his  consistency,  for  his  worm,  too, 
distilleth  delirium  and  death.  And  that  thick-set  man  who 
stands  in  the  midst  of  the  crowd,  with  ruby  countenance  and 
reveling  eye,  whose  repartee  sets  the  whole  pulperia  in  a  roar, 
and  who  is  now  watching  the  liquor  in  his  glass  to  see  if  it 
stirreth  itself  aright,  once  lectured  in  the  west  on  the  tempta- 
tions of  those  who  tarry  late  at  the  wine ;  but  now  his  teeto- 
talism  covers  all  liquors  as  goodly  gifts  graciously  bestowed. 
But  one  brief  year,  and  some  dame  quickly  may  describe  his 
pale  exit,  as  that  of  his  delirious  prototype.  '  I  saw  him 
fumble  with  the  sheets,  and  play  with  flowers,  and  smile  upon 
bis  fingers'  ends.' 


CALIFORNIA    AFTER   THE    DISCOVERY    OF    GOLD.  309 

"  And,  yet,  with  all  these  drawbacks,  with  all  these  gamb- 
ling-tables, grog-shops,  shanties,  shavers,  and  fleas,  San 
Francisco  is  swelling  into  a  town  of  the  highest  commercial 
importance.  She  commands  the  trade  of  the  great  valleys, 
through  which  the  Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin,  with  their 
numerous  tributaries,  roll.  She  gathers  to  her  bosom  the  pro- 
duct and  manufactures  of  the  United  States,  of  England, 
China,  the  shores  and  islands  of  the  Pacific.  But  now  let  us 
glance  at  California  as  she  was  a  few  years  since,  as  she  is 
now,  and  as  she  is  fast  becoming. 

"  Three  years  ago,  the  white  population  of  California  could 
not  have  exceeded  ten  thousand  souls.  She  has  now  a  popula- 
tion of  two  hundred  thousand,  and  a  resistless  tide  of  emigra- 
tion rolling  in,  through  the  heart  of  Mexico,  over  the  Isthmus 
of  Panama,  around  Cape  Horn,  and  over  the  steeps  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  Then  the  great  staple  of  the  country  was 
confined  to  wild  cattle  ;  now  it  is  found  in  exhaustless  mines 
of  quicksilver  and  gold.  Then,  the  shipping  which  frequented 
her  waters,  was  confined  to  a  few  drogers^  that  waddled  along 
her  coast  in  quest  of  hides  and  tallow ;  now,  the  richest 
argosies  of  the  commercial  world  are  bound  to  her  ports. 

"  Three  years  ago,  the  dwellings  of  her  citizens  were  reared 
under  the  hands  of  Indians,  from  sun-baked  adobes  of  mud 
and  straw ;  now,  a  thousand  hammers  are  ringing  on  rafter 
and  roof,  over  walls  of  iron  and  brick.  Then,  the  plough 
which  furrowed  her  fields,  was  the  crotch  of  a  tree,  which  a 
stone  or  root  might  shiver ;  now,  the  shares  of  the  New 
England  farmer  glitter  in  her  soil.  Then,  the  wheels  of  her 
carts  were  cut  from  the  butts  of  trees,  with  a  hole  in  the 
centre,  for  the  rude  axle ;  now,  the  iron-bound  wheel  of  the 
finished  mechanic,  rolls  over  her  hills  and  valleys.  Then, 
only  the  canoe  of  the  Indian  disturbed  the  sleeping  surface  of 


:|  ^  --== ' 

810  CALIFORNIA    AFTER   THE    DISCOVERY    OF    GOLD, 

her  waters  ;  now,  a  fleet  of  steamers  plough  her  ample  rivers 
and  bays.  Then,  not  a  school-house,  public  teacher,  magazine, 
or  newspaper,  could  be  found  in  the  whole  territory ;  now,  they 
are  met  with  in  most  of  the  larger  towns.  Then,  the  tastes 
and  passions  of  an  idle  throng  rang  on  the  guitar  and  the  fan- 
dango ;  now,  the  calculations  of  the  busy  multitudes  turn  to 
the  cultured  field  and  productive  mine.  Then,  California 
was  a  dependency  of  Mexico,  and  subject  to  revolutions,  with 
the  success  of  every  daring  military  chieftain ;  now,  she  is  an 
independent  State,  with  an  enlightened  constitution,  which 
guarantees  equal  rights  and  privileges  to  all.  Then,  she  was 
in  arms  against  our  flag ;  now,  she  unrolls  it  on  the  breeze, 
with  the  star  of  her  own  being  and  pride  glowing  in  the  con- 
stellation which  blazes  on  its  folds. 

'*  Three  years  ago,  and  San  Francisco  contained  three  hun- 
dred souls ;  now  she  has  a  population  of  twenty-seven  thou- 
sand.* Then,  a  building-lot  within  her  limits  cost  fifteen 
dollars ;  now,  the  same  lot  cannot  be  purchased  at  a  less  sum 
than  fifteen  thousand.  Then,  her  commerce  was  confined  to  a 
few  Indian  blankets,  and  Mexican  reboses  and  beads ;  now, 
from  two  to  three  hundred  merchantmen  are  unloading  their 
costly  cargoes  on  her  quay.  Then,  the  famished  whaler  could 
hardly  find  a  temporary  relief  in  her  markets ;  now,  she  has 
phrenzied  the  world  with  her  wealth.  Then,  Benicia  was  a 
pasture,  covered  with  lowing  herds  ;  now,  she  is  a  commercial 
mart,  threatening  to  rival  her  sister  nearer  the  sea.  Then, 
Stockton  and  Sacramento  City  were  covered  with  wild  oats, 
where  the  elk  and  deer  gamboled  at  will ;  now,  they  are  laced 
with  streets  and  walled  with  warehouses,  through  which  the 
great  tide  of  commerce  rolls  ofi"  into  a  hundred  mountain 
glens.      Then,  the  banks  of  the  Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin 

♦  According  to  the  last  accounts,  it  ha:  increased  to  42  000. 


CALIFORNIA    AFTER   THE    DISCOVERY    OF    GOLD.  811 

were  cheered  only  by  the  curling  smoke  of  the  Indian's  hut ; 
now,  they  throw  on  the  eye,  at  every  bend,  the  cheerful  aspect 
of  some  new  hamlet  or  town.  Then,  the  silence  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada  was  broken  only  by  the  voice  of  its  streams ;  now, 
every  cavern  and  cliflf  is  echoing  under  the  blows  of  the  sturdy 
miner.  The  wild  horse,  startled  in  his  glen,  leaves  on  the  hill 
the  clatter  of  his  hoofs,  while  the  huge  bear,  roused  from  his 
patrimonial  jungle,  grimly  retires  to  some  new  mountain-fast- 
ness. 

"  But  I  must  drop  this  contrast  of  the  past  with  the  present, 
and  glance  at  a  few  facts  which  affect  the  future.  The  gold 
deposits  which  have  hitherto  been  discovered,  are  confined, 
mainly,  to  the  banks  and  beds  of  perpetual  streams,  or  the 
bottoms  of  ravines,  through  which  roll  the  waters  of  the 
transient  freshet.  These  deposits  are  the  natural  results  of 
the  law  of  gravitation ;  the  treasures  which  they  contain  must 
have  been  washed  from  the  slopes  of  the  surrounding  hills. 
The  elevations,  like  spendthrifts,  seem  to  have  parted  entirely 
with  their  golden  inheritance,  except  what  may  linger  still  in 
the  quartz.  And  these  gold-containing  quartz  will  be  found 
to  have  their  confined  localities  5  they  will  crown  the  insular 
peaks  of  a  mountain-ridge,  or  fret  the  verge  of  some  extin- 
guished volcano  5  they  have  never  been  found  in  a  continuous 
range,  except  in  the  dreams  of  enchantment ;  you  might  as 
well  look  for  a  wall  of  diamonds  or  a  solid  bank  of  pearls. 
Nature  has  played  off  many  a  prodigal  caprice  in  California, 
but  a  mountain  of  gold  is  not  one  of  them.  The  alluvial  gold, 
will,  at  no  distant  day,  be  measurably  exhausted,  and  the 
miners  be  driven  into  the  mountains.  Here,  the  work  can  be 
sticcessfully  prosecuted  only  by  companies,  with  heavy  capi- 
tals. All  the  uncertainties  which  are  connected  with  mining 
operations,  will  gather  around  these  enterprises.     Wealth  will 


312  CALIFORNIA    AFTER   THE    DISCOVERY    OF    GOLD. 

reward  the  labors  of  the  fewj  whose  success  was  mainly  the 
result  of.  good  fortune,  while  disappointment  will  attend  the 
efforts  of  the  many,  equally  skillful  and  persevering.  These 
wide  inequalities  in  the  proceeds  of  the  miner's  labor,  have 
exhibited  themselves,  wherever  a  gold  deposit  has  been 
hunted  or  found  in  California.  The  past  is  the  reliable 
prophecy  of  the  future. 

"  Not  one  in  ten  of  the  thousands  who  have  gone,  or  may  go 
to  California  to  hunt  for  gold,  will  return  with  a  fortune  ; 
still  the  great  tide  for  emigration  will  set  there,  till  her  valleys 
and  mountain-glens  teem  with  a  hardy  enterprising  population. 
As  the  gold  deposits  diminish,  or  become  more  difficult  of 
access,  the  quicksilver  mines  will  call  forth  their  unflagging 
energies.  This  metal  slumbers  in  her  mountain-spurs  in 
massive  richness  ;  the  process  is  simple  which  converts  it  into 
that  form,  through  which  the  mechanic  arts  subserve  the 
thousand  purposes  of  science  and  social  refinement,  while  the 
medical  profession,  through  its  strange  abuse,  keep  up  a  Car- 
nival in  the  Court  of  Death ;  but  for  this  they  who  mine  the 
ore  are  not  responsible — they  will  find  their  reward  in  the 
wealth  which  will  follow  their  labors.  It  will  be  in  their 
power  to  silence  the  hammers  in  those  mines  which  have 
hitherto  monopolized  the  markets  of  the  world. 

But  the  enterprise  and  wealth  of  California  are  not  confined 
to  her  mines.  Her  ample  forests  of  oak,  redwood  and  pine, 
only  wait  the  requisite  machinery  to  convert  them  into  elegant 
residences  and  strong-ribbed  ships.  Her  exhaustless  quarries 
of  granite  and  marble  will  yet  pillar  the  domes  of  metropoli- 
tan splendor  and  pride.  The  hammer  and  drill  will  be 
reUnquished  by  multitudes  for  the  plough  and  sickle.  Her 
arable  land,  stretching  through  Tier  spacious  valleys,  and  along 
the  broad  banks  of  her  rivers,  will  wave  with  the  golden  har- 


=^.v%^.'-:*i^ 


■  -^ix::^.rf!C^~i'?\i: 


CALIFORNIA    AFTER   THE    DISCOVER  IT    OF    GOLD.  815 

vest ;  the  rain-cloud  may  not  visit  her  in  the  summer  months, 
but  the  mountain-stream  will  he  induced  to  throw  its  showers 
over  her  thirsty  plains. 

"  Such  was  California  a  few  years  since — such  is  she  now, 
and  such  will  she  become  even  before  they  who  now  rush  to 
her  shores,  find  their  footsteps  within  the  shadows  of  the 
pale  realm." 


316  GENERAL    OBSERVATIONS    ON    CALIFORNIA. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

GENERAL    OBSERVATIONS    ON    CALIFORNIA. 

California  was  discovered  by  the  Spaniards  about  1534, 
and  towards  the  close  of  the  succeeding  century,  the  Jesuits 
estabUshed  themselves  in  it  to  convert  the  natives.  The  ef- 
forts of  the  missionaries  have  nominally  converted  about  half 
the  natives  to  Christianity,  but  the  number  of  the  native  in- 
habitants are  rapidly  decreasing,  and  they  do  not  number  at 
present  more  than  fourteen  thousand.  Though  divided  into 
many  tribes,  they  are  understood  to  belong  to  the  same  family, 
speaking  the  same  language,  and  having  similar  manners  and 
customs. 

The  stature  of  these  people  varies  with  their  habits.  Those 
who  subsist  chiefly  on  fish,  and  inhabit  the  sea- coast,  are  sel- 
dom more  than  five  feet  and  six  inches  in  height,  with  slender 
forms,  while  those  who  occupy  the  great  valleys  in  the  interior 
are  tall  and  robust.  Their  complexion  is  a  shade  or  two 
darker  than  that  of  the  Indians  in  Oregon  and  about  the 
Columbia  ;  their  noses  are  broad  and  flat ;  the  hair  is  black, 
coarse,  and  straight,  and  their  lips  are  thick,  like  the  negro. 
The  forehead  is  low  and  contracted ;  eyebrows  and  beard 
scanty.  They  have  the  habit  common  to  all  American  Indians 
of  extracting  the  beard  and  hair  of  other  parts  of  the  body. 
During  the  summer  months  the  men  seldom  conceal  their 
nakedness ;  but  the  females  always  have  a  rush  or  a  skin- 
covering  around  the  waist.     The  women  are  also  fond  of  tat- 


GENERAL    OBSERVATIONS    ON    CALIFORNIA.  317 

toeing,  and  ornament  their  arms  and  breasts  with  it.  Their 
habitations  are  formed  of  pliable  poles,  with  their  butts  in- 
serted into  the  ground  and  tied  together  at  the  top.  These 
are  interwoven  with  brush  and  thatched  with  bulrushes  ;  the 
interior  of  these  wigwams  is  usually  very  filthy,  and  contain 
no  furniture,  except  a  few  wooden  bowls,  a  small  netting-sack 
in  which  to  put  their  fruit  and  seeds,  another  in  the  form  of  a 
bag  to  sling  on  the  shoulders,  for  the  purpose  of  carrying  their 
infants  when  traveling,  one  or  two  fishing-nets,  and  a  sea- 
shell  for  dipping  water  to  drink. 

Among  some  of  the  tribes,  parentage  and  other  relations  of 
consanguinity  are  no  obstacles  to  matrimony.  A  man  often 
marries  a  whole  family,  the  mother  and  daughters,  and  it  is 
said  that  in  such  cases  no  jealousies  ever  appear  among  these 
families  of  wives.  They  seem  to  consider  their  oiffspring  as 
the  property  of  all,  and  the  husband  as  their  common  protector. 

It  is  known  that  those  tribes  which  have  not  embraced 
Christianity  do  nevertheless  believe  in  the  control  of  good  and 
evil  spirits,  to  whom  they  occasionally  offer  prayers ;  and  as  a 
proof  of  their  having  some  idea  of  a  future  state,  they  inva- 
riably deposit  bows  and  arrrows,  and  cooking  utensils  in  the 
graves  of  their  dead. 

The  part  of  Upper  California  inhabited  by  foreign  settlers, 
is  a  tract  extending  five  hundred  miles  along  the  shore  of 
the  Pacific,  and  bounded  inland  at  an  average  distance  of  forty 
miles  from  the  coast  by  a  range  of  hills.  The  most  southern 
portion  of  this  region  is  torrid  and  parched,  but  as  we  proceed 
north,  the  climate  becomes  more  favorable,  though  the  country 
is  subject  to  long  and  severe  droughts,  which  occasion  great 
distress.  There  are  many  streams  in  this  part  of  California, 
which  carry  oif  the  water  in  torrents  to  the  ocean,  during  the 
rainy  season,  and  cause  the  valleys  which  they  water,  to  afford 


818  GENERAL    OBSERVATIONS    ON    CALIFORNIA. 

good  pasturage  for  the  cattle  which  are  found  there  in  large 
numbers.  There  are  but  two  tracts  of  country  capable  of  sup- 
porting a  large  population — one  west  of  Mount  San  Barnardino, 
and  the  other  surrounding  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  and  the 
lower  part  of  the  Sacramento.  To  the  east  of  the  California 
Mountains  are  the  vast  sandy  plains,  of  which  but  little  is 
known  ;  nor  have  any  attempts  been  made  to  explore  the  more 
northern  portion  of  this  section. 

The  valleys  of  San  Juan  and  that  of  Sacramento,  are 
capable  of  producing  great  crops  of  wheat,  rye,  oats,  Indian 
corn,  potatoes,  &c.,  with  all  the  fruits  and  vegetables  of  the 
temperate,  and  many  of  the  tropical  climates.  The  cultiva- 
tion of  the  grape  increases  yearly,  and  the  vineyards  about  the 
Missions  yield  most  abundantly  as  finely-flavored  fruit  as 
there  is  to  be  found  in  any  part  of  the  world. 

All  this  portion  of  California  is  well  adapted  to  the  rearing 
of  cattle  and  sheep ;  they  can  find  plenty  of  nutritious  food 
the  whole  year  round,  and  they  require  no  watching.  The 
mutton  is  of  very  fine  flavor,  and  the  usual  price  for  a  sheep 
is  from  one  dollar  to  one  dollar  and  a  half. 

The  Sacramento,  and  other  rivers  of  Cahfornia  abound  in 
salmon,  and  might  be  made  a  source  of  considerable  profit. 
Many  more  valuable  species  are  taken  in  these  waters. 

The  white  and  mixed  population  of  this  section  is  estimated 
at  five  thousand.  They  are  robust  and  tall,  and  pride  them- 
selves on  their  horsemanship  ;  they  early  become  expert  and 
fearless  riders,  and  they  have  been  known  to  ride  upwards  of 
two  hundred  miles  in  one  day.  Descended  from  the  old 
Spaniards,  they  are  found  to  have  all  their  vices  and  scarcely 
any  of  their  virtues ;  they  are  cowardly,  ignorant,  lazy,  and 
addicted  to  gambling  and  drinking ;  very  few  of  them  are  able 
to  read  or  write,  and  know  nothing  of  science  or  literature. 


GENERAL    OBSERVATIONS    ON    CALIFORNIA.  321 

nothing  of  government  but  its  brutal  force,  nothing  of  religion 
but  ceremonies  of  the  national  ritual.  Their  amusements  are 
music,  cock-fighting,  bear-baiting,  and  horse-racing.  Wed- 
dings generally  last  for  three  or  four  days,  and  usually  end  in 
some  quarrel.  The  ^'  cuchillo"  is  always  worn,  and  is 
resorted  to  in  all  their  affrays.  The  females  are  very  fond  of 
dress,  and  their  propensity  for  gambling  is  as  great  as  that  of 
the  male  portion  of  the  community. 


822  CONQUEST    OF    CALIFORNA 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

CONQUEST    OF    CALIFORNIA    BY    THE    UNITED    STATES. 

The  Commander-in-Chief  of  tht  Pacific  Squadron,  Com- 
modore Sloat,  received  reliable  information,  at  Mazatlan,  on 
the  7th  of  June,  1846,  that  the  Mexican  troops,  six  or  seven 
thousand  in  number,  had  invaded  the  territory  of  the  United 
States,  and  attacked  General  Taylor.  He  was  told,  that  the 
American  Squadron,  under  Commodore  Conner,  was  blockad- 
ing the  eastern  coast,  and  he  immediately  sailed  for  Monterey, 
where  he  found  the  "  Cyane"  and  "  Levant."  After  an 
examination  of  the  defences  of  the  town,  and  completing  his 
arrangements  for  capturing  it,  he  sent  Captain  Mervine,  on 
the  7th  of  July,  to  the  governor  of  the  town  to  demand  its 
surrender,  and  on  his  declining  to  comply  with  the  summons, 
it  was  taken  by  a  detachment  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  seamen 
and  marines  from  the  vessels.  Masters  of  the  town,  they 
speedily  raised  the  American  flag  from  the  Custom-house, 
amid  the  cheers  from  the  troops  and  bystanders,  and  a 
national  salute  from  the  squadron.  A  proclamation  from 
the  Commodore  was  then  posted  up,  stating  the  existence  of 
hostilities  between  Mexico  and  the  United  States,  and  his  in- 
tention to  take  possession  of  all  California.  It  also  announced 
that,  although  the  Commander-in-Chief  came  in  arms,  he 
came  as  a  friend,  and  all  the  peaceable  inhabitants  of  the 
country  would  be  confirmed  in  the  rights  they  then  enjoyed,  and 
have  in  addition  the  superior  advantages  afibrded  to  the  people 


cq         H 


V        ij 
ju  i! 


5 


BY    THE    UNITED    STATES.  327 

by  the  constitution  and  laws  of  the  United  States,  under  which 
they  might  reasonably  hope  to  advance  and  improve  rapidly, 
both  in  commerce  and  agriculture.  Such  of  the  inhabitants 
as  were  disposed  to  live  peaceably  under  the  government  of 
the  United  States,  were  to  be  allowed  time  to  dispose  of  their 
property,  and  to  leave  the  country,  if  they  chose,  without  any 
restriction,  or  to  remain  in  it,  in  the  observance  of  strict 
neutrality.  The  civil  functionaries  were  desired  to  retain 
their  offices,  and  preserve  tranquillity;  and  the  people  and 
clergy  were  assured  of  their  being  unmolested  in  their  pro- 
perty, rights  and  j^ossessions.  Under  the  orders  of  the  Com- 
modore, Captain  Montgomery,  with  seventy  sailors  and  marines 
of  the  United  States  sloop-of-war  "  Portsmouth,"  landed  at 
the  settlement  of  Yerba  Buena,  in  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco, 
and  took  possession  of  that  place.  On  the  11th  of  July, 
Captain  Montgomery  informed  the  Commodore  that  the 
American  flag  was  flying  at  Yerba  Buena,  at  Sutter's  Fort, 
at  Bodega,  and  at  Sonoura ;  and  added,  that  the  protection  of 
persons  and  property,  which  the  American  flag  promised 
to  the  land  and  the  people,  was  hailed  with  joy  by  the  people, 
some  of  whom  had  enrolled  themselves  into  a  new  company, 
under  the  auspices  of  the  American  officers,  styled  "  The 
Volunteer  Guards  of  Yerba  Buena."  On  the  day  on  which 
he  sent  this  communication  to  the  Commodore,  a  British  vessel 
of  twenty-six  guns,  the  "  Juno,"  arrived  at  San  Francisco,  and 
anchored.  Captain  Montgomery  brought  all  his  crew  from 
the  shore  to  the  ship,  with  a  view  of  defending  his  position,  in 
case  the  English  commander  should  think  proper  to  interfere. 
The  "  Volunteer  Guards  of  Yerba  Buena"  took  upon  them- 
selves the  task  of  defending  the  flag  of  the  United  States, 
assuring  the  commander  that  it  should  wave  while  a  single 
man  of  their  body  lived  to  defend  it.     Don  Francisco  Sancher, 


828  CONQUEST    OF    CALIFC  RNIA 

the  military  commander  of  the  district,  promptly  complied  with 
the  requisition  of  Captain  Montgomery,  that  he  should  come  in 
and  deliver  up  the  arms  and  public  property  in  his  possession. 
He  assured  the  American  commander  that  he  had  no  public 
property,  but  told  where  several  guns  were  buried.  Lieut. 
Missroon,  of  the  "  Portsmouth,"  went  to  the  Mission  of 
Dolores,  but  found  only  a  quantity  of  public  documents,  which 
were  taken  possession  of  and  deposited  in  the  Custom-house. 

On  the  13th  of  July,  at  their  own  request.  Commodore 
Sloat  furnished  a  flag  to  the  foreigners  of  the  Pueblo  of  San 
Jose,  a  place  about  seventy  miles  distant  from  the  coast,  and 
about  eighty  miles  from  Monterey.  He  had  just  completed 
the  organization  of  a  company  of  thirty-five  dragoons,  made  up 
of  volunteers  from  the  ships  and  citizens,  to  reconnoitre  the 
country,  and  keep  open  the  land -communication  between  the 
different  places  held  by  the  Americans.  Purser  Fauntleroy 
was  appointed  to  command  this  body,  and  Mr.  McLane  was 
appointed  first-lieutenant.  On  the  17th,  Mr.  Fauntleroy  re- 
connoitered  as  far  as  the  Mission  of  St.  John's,  intending  to 
capture  that  place  and  recover  ten  brass  field-pieces,  said  to 
have  been  buried  there  by  the  Mexicans  some  time  previously. 
On  his  arrival  there,  he  found  the  gallant  Captain  Fremont 
already  in  possession,  and  the  two  returned  together  to 
Monterey,  the  head-quarters  of  the  Commodore. 

Captain  Fremont  had  left  Washington  in  1845,  to  make  a 
third  expedition,  for  scientific  purposes,  to  the  regions  west  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  his  arrangements  for  the  journey 
contemplated  only  its  legitimate  objects.  He  took  no  officer 
or  soldier  with  him ;  and  the  whole  company  which  he  led, 
consisted  of  only  sixty-two  men,  engaged  by  himself  as  se- 
curity against  the  Indians,  and  for  assistants  in  the  duties  of 
his  mission.     He  approached  the  settlements  in   California, 


BY    THE    UNITED    STATES.  329 

about  the  beginning  of  the  year  1846  ;  and,  as  he  was  aware 
of  the  difficulties  existing  between  the  United  States  and 
Mexico,  he  determined  to  be  very  circumspect  in  his  conduct. 
He  left  his  men  on  the  frontiers,  while  he  advanced  alone  a 
hundred  miles  to  Monterey,  where  he  visited  the  principal  offi- 
cers of  the  Government,  in  company  with  the  United  States 
Consul  and  Navy  Agent,  Mr.  Larkin.  He  informed  them  of 
his  expedition,  and  its  purposes,  and  Governor  Castro  gave 
him  permission  to  pass  the  winter  in  the  Valley  of  San 
Joaquin,  where  was  feed  for  his  horses  and  game  for  his  men. 
Captain  Fremont  then  returned  to  his  men,  and  led  them 
leisurely  to  the  place  designated,  but  he  had  hardly  reached 
it,  before  he  received  orders  from  the  Governor  to  leave  the 
country.  He  was  even  threatened  with  forcible  ejection,  if  he 
disobeyed  the  command.  After  the  permission  given  him  in 
person  by  Castro,  Captain  Fremont  determined  not  to  obey 
these  uncourteous  messages,  and  the  Governor  made  great 
preparations  to  carry  his  threats  into  execution.  Of  these  he 
was  informed  by  Mr.  Larkin,  whom  he  answered  by  a  letter, 
stating,  that  if  Governor  Castro  brought  against  him  an 
armed  force,  he  should  try  to  defend  himself,  though  not  one 
of  his  men  had  ever  been  a  soldier.  He,  moreover,  informed 
the  Consul  that  he  had  hoisted  the  American  flag,  and  he 
should  keep  it  flying  as  the  only  protection  he  had  to  look  to. 
On  the  7th  of  March,  and  the  three  following  days,  he  em- 
ployed himself  in  fortifying  his  position,  by  erecting  a  breast- 
work of  logs  and  brush.  The  position  of  the  Americans  was 
on  a  high  hill,  whence  they  could  see  with  their  telescopes  the 
preparations  of  the  Governor,  in  his  camp  at  the  Mission  of 
St.  John's.  Mr.  Larkin  now  received  another  letter  from 
Captain  Fremont,  and  at  the  earnest  request  of  the  Alcade, 
it  was  immediately  translated  into  Spanish,  and  sent  to  the 


CONQUEST    OF    CALIFORNIA 


Governor.  Here  follows  a  portion  of  the  letter : — "  I  am 
making  myself  as  strong  as  possible,  in  the  intention  that,  if 
we  are  unjustly  attacked,  we  will  fight  to  extremity,  and 
refuse  quarter,  trusting  to  our  country  to  avenge  our  death. 
No  one  has  reached  our  camp ;  and  from  the  heights  we  are 
able  to  see  troops  mustering  at  St.  John's,  and  preparing  can- 
non. I  thank  you  for  your  kindness  and  good  wishes,  and 
would  write  more  at  length,  as  to  my  intentions,  did  I  not  fear 
my  letter  would  be  intercepted.  We  have  in  no-wise  done 
wrong  to  the  people,  or  the  authorities  of  the  country,  and  if 
we  are  hemmed  in  and  assaulted  here,  we  will  die,  every  man 
of  us,  under  the  flag  of  our  country." 

Castro  continued  his  preparations  for  an  attack  against  our 
countrymen,  but  he  took  special  care  not  to  crowd  them  too 
closely. 

Not  wishing,  however,  to  be  the  cause  of  embroiling  his 
nation  in  difficulties,  Captain  Fremont  determined  to  abandon 
his  mission,  and  return  to  the  United  States,  rather  than  con- 
tinue it  against  the  opposition  of  the  Mexican  authorities. 
Accordingly,  on  the  10th  of  March,  he  left  his  encampment, 
and  retired  towards  Oregon,  followed  some  distance  by  the 
forces  commanded  by  the  Governor,  which  amounted  to  four 
hundred  men.  But  the  valiant  General  always  avoided  com- 
ing to  an  action,  and  on  the  same  day  returned  to  Monterey, 
bringing  with  him  some  old  clothes  and  two  or  three  pack- 
saddles,  all  thrown  away  as  useless,  when  our  people  struck 
their  tents.  These  were  paraded  as  trophies,  and  the  Gover- 
nor published  a  placard,  in  which  he  announced,  that  a  band 
of  highwaymen,  under  Captain  Fremont,  of  the  United  States 
army,  had  come  into  his  department,  but  that  he  had  chased 
them  out  with  two  hundred  patriots,  and  if  they  dared  to  show 
themselves   again  about  Monterey,  he  would  march  out  to 


BY   THE    UNITED    STATES,  831 

meet  them,  and  destroy  them  to  a  man.  About  the  middle 
of  May,  Captain  Fremont  arrived  at  the  great  Hamath  Lake, 
in  the  Oregon  Territory.  He  intended  to  return  to  the 
United  States,  by  the  Columbia  and  Missouri,  through  the 
northern  pass  in  the  Rocky  Mountains ;  but  he  found  his  pro- 
gress stopped  by  bands  of  hostile  Indians,  who  had  been 
stirred  up  against  him,  particularly  the  Hamath  tribe,  who 
killed  and  wounded  several  of  his  followers,  in  a  night  attack. 
Two  days  after,  he  had  another  fight  with  the  same  Indians, 
and  destroyed  one  or  two  of  their  villages.  It  was  in  this 
engagement  that  Fremont  saved  Carson's  life,  as  an  Indian 
was  about  killing  him.  Captain  Fremont  now  discovered  that 
if  he  persevered  in  his  route,  he  would  have  to  fight  almost 
every  step  of  his  way,  besides  marching  over  mountains  on 
which  the  snow  was  still  falling,  and  though  he  and  his  men 
were  sufiering  from  fatigue  and  famine,  he  remained  for  some 
days  deliberating  upon  the  proper  course  to  pursue. 

From  various  sources  he  received  information  that  Governor 
Castro  was  assembling  troops,  with  the  avowed  object  of  at- 
tacking his  party  and  all  the  American  settlers,  because,  he 
alleged,  the  Captain  had  come  for  the  purpose  of  inciting  the 
settlers  to  revolt. 

With  these  facts  before  him,  he  at  length  determined  upon 
the  proper  course  to  pursue,  which  was  to  turn  back  and  act 
the  oflfensive.  On  the  11th  of  June,  he  struck  the  first  blow. 
At  day-light  on  that  day  he  surprised  an  officer  and  fourteen 
men  on  the  way  to  the  Mexican  camp,  with  two  hundred 
horses  for  Castro's  army.  The  horses  were  retained,  and  the 
officer  and  the  men  released.  At  early  dawn  on  the  15th,  the 
military  rendzevous  and  intended  head-quarters  was  surprised 
by  the  Americans,  who  captured  there  nine  pieces  of  brass 
cannon,  two  hundred  and  fifty  muskets,  and  other  arms  and 


832  CONQUEST    :F    CALIFORNIA 

ammunition,  a  general,  a  colonel,  and  many  other  officers. 
The  gallant  captain  left  a  party  of  fourteen  men  here  as  a  gar- 
rison, and  repaired  to  the  Rio  de  los  Americanos,  to  obtain  aid 
from  the  American  settlers.  While  there  an  express  arrived 
from  Sonoma,  with  information  of  the  approach  of  a  large 
force  under  General  Castro.  He  therefore  immediately  set 
out,  with  a  force  of  ninety  horsemen,  armed  with  rifles,  and 
traveled  day  and  night.  He  reached  Sonoma,  after  marching 
eighty  miles,  at  two  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  25th  of 
June.  On  the  same  morning,  a  squadron  of  seventy  dragoons, 
the  vanguard  of  Castro's  force,  crossed  the  bay,  and  were  at- 
tacked and  defeated  by  a  party  of  twenty  Americans,  with  the 
loss  of  only  two  men  killed.  Two  of  Captain  Fremont's  men 
were  taken  by  the  Mexicans,  and  cut  to  pieces  alive  with 
knives.  The  Americans  retaliated  this  cruel  and  cowardly 
act,  by  instantly  shooting  three  of  the  enemy  whom  they  had 
captured.  Having  cleared  the  north  side  of  the  bay  of  San 
Francisco  of  the  Mexicans,  Captain  Fremont  called  the 
Americans  together  at  Sonoma,  addressed  them  upon  the 
dangers  of  their  situation,  and  recommended,  as  their  only 
means  of  safety,  a  declaration  of  independence  and  war  upon 
Castro  and  his  troops.  The  independence  was  declared,  and 
the  war  followed.  A  few  days  afterwards,  they  heard  of  the 
taking  of  Monterey  by  the  American  Squadron,  and  the 
existence  of  the  war.  The  Star-spangled  Banner  was  promptly 
substituted  for  that  of  the  Californian  revolutionist.  The 
valiant  Castro  fled  south  at  the  head  of  nearly  five  hundred 
men,  well  armed ;  and  Captain  Fremont,  leaving  some  fifty 
men  in  garrisons,  pursued  him  with  a  hundred  and  sixty  rifle- 
men. It  was  at  this  stage  of  his  proceedings  that  he  met 
Purser  Fauntleroy,  and  received  Commodore  Sloat's  request 
that  he  would  repair  to  Monterey.     They  arrived  there  on  the 


BY   THE    unite:     STATES. 


19th  of  July.  Soon  after  Commodore  Sloat  resigned  the  com- 
mand of  the  naval  forces  to  Commodore  Stockton,  and  sailed 
for  home  to  recruit  his  health,  which  had  been  enfeebled  by 
long  and  arduous  services.^  This  gallant  and  meritorious 
officer  was  highly  applauded  for  his  course  by  the  government, 
having  observed  the  line  of  conduct  prescribed  by  his  instruc- 
tions, "  with  such  intelligence  and  fidelity,  that  no  complaint 
has  ever  been  made  of  any  anauthorized  aggression  on  his 
part.'' 

Commodore  Stockton  commenced  his  part  of  the  conquest 
by  organizing  the  "  California  Battalion  of  Mounted  Rifle- 
men," appointing  their  officers,  and  receiving  them  into  the 
service  of  the  United  States.  Captain  Fremont  was  appointed 
Major,  and  lieutenant  Gillespie,  Captain  of  the  battalion. 
Major  Fremont  sailed  with  his  battalion,  in  the  United  States 
ship  "  Cyane,"  for  San  Diego,  in  the  hope  of  getting  in  ad- 
vance of  General  Castro,  and  cutting  off  his  retreat.  He 
arrived  at  San  Diego  on  the  29th  of  July,  but  the  Californians 
had  driven  off  all  the  horses,  and  consequently  he  was  unable 
to  move  until  the  8th  of  August,  when  he  resumed  his  pursuit. 
Commodore  Stockton  meanwhile  had  sailed  to  San  Pedro, 
where  he  landed  three  hundred  and  sixty  of  the  sailors  belong- 
ing to  his  ship,  the  frigate  "  Congress."  With  this  sailor- 
army  he  commenced  his  march  towards  the  camp  of  Meza,  a 
strongly-fortified  position  held  by  General  Castro,  three  miles 
from  the  City  of  the  Angels,  and  the  capital  of  the  Cali- 
fornians. On  the  approach  of  our  gallant  tars  within  sight  of 
the  Mexican  camp,  the  General  shamefully  abandoned  it  and 
fled.  His  men  followed  his  example,  and  ran  away  in  all 
directions.  Major  Fremont  joined  the  Commodore  on  the 
13th  of  August,  with  eighty  mounted  riflemen,  and  the  united  » 
forces  entered  the  City  of  the  Angels,  and  took  possession  of 


834  CONQUEST    OF    CALIFORNIA 

the  Government-house.  On  the  IGth,  Major  Fremont  again 
set  off  in  pursuit  of  Castro,  but  it  was  soon  found  that 
the  valiant  Governor  had  made  good  his  -escape  towards 
the  cit}''  of  Mexico.  Most  of  his  officers,  however,  were 
captured,  and  brought  to  the  City  of  the  Angels,  where 
Commodore  Stockton  had  been  busy  in  establishing  a  civil 
government. 

The  Commodore  directed  Major  Fremont  to  increase  his 
force  and  post  it  in  garrisons  in  the  different  places  : — Fifty 
were  to  be  stationed  in  the  City  of  the  Angels  under  Cap- 
tain Gillespie,  fifty  at  Monterey,  fifty  at  San  Francisco, 
and  twenty-five  at  Santa  Barbara.  He  embarked  for  San 
Francisco  to  recruit,  making,  in  the  meanwhile,  a  temporary 
disposition  of  his  forces.  He  took  but  forty  men  with 
him,  and  nine  of  these  he  left  at  Santa  Barbara,  in  charge 
of  Lieutenant  Talbot.  During  his  absence,  on  the  23d  of 
September,  a  Californian  army  invested  the  City  of  the 
Angels,  and  by  their  superior  numbers  caused  Captain  Gil- 
lespie to  surrender  that  place.  He  returned  with  his  thirty 
riflemen  to  San  Pedro,  and  from  there  sailed  for  Monterey. 
The  Californian  Chief,  Manual  Gaspar,  then  led  two  hun- 
dred of  his  men  against  Santa  Barbara,  but  Lieut.  Talbot 
and  his  nine  men  defended  themselves  with  heroic  courage. 
He  held  the  town  until  he  was  completely  besieged,  and  then 
refusing  to  surrender,  fought  his  way  through  the  enemy  to 
the  mountains  of  the  vicinity,  where  he  remained  eight  days, 
suffering  from  cold  and  hunger.  A  detachment  of  forty  men 
advanced  to  take  him,  but  was  driven  back.  They  then  offered 
to  permit  him  to  retire,  if  he  would  pledge  himself  and  his  men 
to  neutrality  during  the  war,  but  he  sent  word  to  the  Mexican 
Chief  that  he  preferred  to  fight.  At  length,  finding  that 
neither  force  or  persuasion  would  cause  him  to  leave  his  posi- 


BY    THE    UNITED    STATES.  835 

tion,  they  set  fire  to  the  grass  and  brush  around  him  and 
burned  him  out.  Still  determined  not  to  surrender,  he  com- 
menced a  march  of  five  hundred  miles  to  Monterey  a-foot, 
where  his  arrival  was  hailed  with  the  utmost  joy  by  all  the 
Americans.  The  brave  fellows  were  welcomed  by  their  com- 
panions as  from  the  grave ;  for  the  enemy  had  reported  that 
they  had  all  been  slain. 

Major  Fremont  had  made  an  efibrt  to  2:0  from  San  Fran- 
cisco to  the  relief  of  Captain  Gillespie,  but  he  was  forced 
back  Jto  Monterey  by  bad  weather.  A  few  days  after  the 
arrival  of  Lieutenant  Talbot,  a  party  of  fifty- seven  Americans, 
under  Captains  Burrows  and  Thompson,  were  attacked  by  the 
Californians,  eighty  in  number.  Captain  Burrows  and  three 
Americans  were  slain.  Major  Fremont  marched  to  their 
assistance,  and  the  whole  party  arrived  at  San  Fernando  on 
the  11th  of  January,  1847. 

While  these  events  were  passing  in  California,  General 
Kearney  was  on  his  way  from  the  United  States,  with  a  force 
intended  to  conquer  that  country.  On  the  6th  of  October,  he 
met  Carson,  with  fifteen  men,  coming  as  an  express  from  the 
City  of  the  Angels,  with  an  account  of  the  conquest  of  that 
country  by  Commodore  Stockton  and  Major  Fremont.  In  con- 
sequence of  this  intelligence,  the  General  sent  back  the  greater 
part  of  his  troops.  On  the  5th  of  December,  he  met  Captain 
Gillespie  coming  with  a  small  party  of  volunteers,  to  give  him 
information  of  the  state  of  the  country.  Captain  Gillespie 
informed  him  that  there  was  an  armed  party  of  Californians, 
with  a  number  of  extra  horses,  encamped  at  San  Pasquel, 
three  leagues  distant.  General  Kearney  immediately  set  out 
to  meet  them,  in  the  double  hope  of  gaining  a  victory  and  a 
remount  for  his  poor  soldiers,  who  had  completely  worn  out 
their  horses  in  the  march  from  Santa  Fe.     The  Californians 


336  CONQUEST    OF    CALIFORNIA 

were  numerous,  and  a  desperate  fight  ensued,  which  at  one 
time  Veil  nigh  proved  fatal  to  the  Americans,  their  line  be- 
coming scattered  by  the  sorry  condition  of  the  animals  on 
which  some  of  them  were  mounted.  Captain  Johnson  made 
a  furious  charge  upon  the  enemy  with  the  advance  guard.  He 
fell  almost  in  the  very  commencement  of  the  fight,  but  the 
courage  of  our  countrymen  did  not  flag,  and  the  enemy  was 
eventually  forced  to  retreat.  Captain  Moore  led  ofi*  rapidly 
in  pursuit,  but  the  mules  of  the  dragoons  could  not  keep  up 
with  his  horses,  and  the  enemy  seeing  the  break  in  the  line, 
renewed  the  action,  and  charged  with  the  lance,  in  the  use 
of  which  they  are  very  expert.  They  fought  well,  and 
the  American  loss  was  heavy.  General  Kearney  himself 
was  wounded  in  two  places.  Captain  Gillespie  and  Lieu- 
tenant Warner  each  in  three,  and  Captain  Gibson  and 
eleven  others  were  also  w^ounded,  having  from  two  to  ten 
marks  of  lances  on  their  bodies.  Captain  Johnson,  Captain 
Moore,  Lieutenant  Hammond,  two  sergeants,  two  corporals, 
eleven  privates,  and  a  man  attached  to  the  topographical  de- 
partment, were  slain.  The  severe  wounds  of  the  actors  in 
this  fight  caused  the  march  of  the  army  to  be  delayed,  and  it 
did  not  reach  San  Diego  until  the  12th  of  December. 

When  Commodore  Stockton  heard  of  the  outbreak  of  the 
Calif ornians,  he  dispatched  the  frigate  ''  Savannah  "  to  relieve 
Captain  Gillespie,  but  she  arrived  too  late.  Three  hundred 
and  twenty  of  her  crew  landed  and  marched  towards  the  City 
of  the  Angels,  but  the  Californians  met  them,  well  appointed 
with  fine  horses  and  artillery,  and  though  the  sailors  fought 
heroically,  they  were  eventually  compelled  to  retire  before 
such  an  overwhelming  superiority  of  numbers.  They  lost 
eleven  in  killed  and  wounded.  Commodore  Stockton  came 
down  himself  to  San  Pedro  in  the  ''  Congress,"  and  made  an- 


BY    THE    UNITED    STATES.  337 

other  march  upon  the  City  of  the  Angels  with  a  detachment  of 
sailors,  who  now  took  some  of  the  ship's  cannons  with  them, 
dragged  by  hand  with  ropes.  At  the  Rancho  Sepulrida,  they 
encountered  the  enemy,  who  were  decoyed  by  Commodore 
Stockton  into  a  favorable  position,  and  then  fired  upon  with 
the  guns  which  had  been  concealed  from  their  view.  More  than 
a  hundred  were  killed,  one  hundred  and  fifty  wounded,  a  hun- 
dred taken  prisoners,  and  the  whole  force  of  the  Californians 
put  to  flight.  Mounted  on  horses,  while  the  sailors  were  on 
foot,  the  enemy  had,  hitherto,  the  advantage  of  choosing  his 
own  time,  place,  and  distance  of  attack,  but  the  means  of 
transportation  were  placed  by  this  splendid  victory  in  the 
hands  of  the  sailors,  and  as  soon  as  they  could  be  mounted,  a 
series  of  skirmishes  were  commenced,  in  which  they  displayed 
the  utmost  courage  and  activity. 

Commodore  Stockton  found  General  Kearney  at  San  Diego. 
This  meeting  was  opportune  ;  and  the  two  commanders  im- 
mediately proceeded  to  fix  upon  a  plan  for  bringing  the  war  to 
a  speedy  termination.  On  the  29th  of  December,  their  forces 
composed  of  sixty  dismounted  dragoons,  fifty  California  Vol- 
unteers, and  four  hundred  sailors  and  marines,  started  on  the 
march  from  San  Diego  to  the  City  of  the  Angels.  At  the  Rio 
San  Gabriel  they  found  the  enemy  in  a  strong  position,  with 
six  hundred  mounted  men  and  four  field  pieces,  prepared  to 
dispute  the  passage  of  the  river.  The  battle  was  fought  on 
the  8th  of  January,  1847.  The  Americans  waded  through 
the  water  under  a  galling  fire,  Iragging  their  guns  after  them. 
They  reserved  their  own  fire  until  they  reached  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river ;  here  they  repelled  a  charge  of  the  enemy, 
and  then  charged  up  the  bank ;  and  after  fighting  about  one 
hour  became  masters  of  the  field.  The  enemy  made  another 
stand  on  the  plains  of  Mera,  in  the  hope  of  saving  the  capital ; 


338  CONQUEST    OF    CALIFORNIA 


but  they  were  again  driven  from  the  field,  and  on  the  lOth  the 
American  army  entered  the  capital  in  triumph.  They  had 
lost  one  private  killed,  and  thirteen  of  their  number  wounded 
in  the  two  fights.  The  enemy  carried  off  their  dead  and 
wounded,  so  that  the  extent  of  their  loss  is  unknown,  but  both 
General  Kearney  and  Commodore  Stockton  estimate  it  at 
between  seventy  and  eighty.  The  insurgents  fled  and  sur- 
rendered to  Major  Fremont,  who  met  them  as  he  was  ap- 
proaching the  capital. 

Major  Fremont  joined  the  forces  of  Kearney  and  Stockton 
at  the  City  of  the  Angels  on  the  15th  of  January,  and  it  was 
here  the  misunderstanding  arose  between  General  Kearney  and 
himself,  which  for  so  long  a  time  excited  public  attention.  In 
January,  1847,  Commodore  Shubrick  arrived  at  Monterey, 
and  assumed  the  command  of  the  naval  forces  on  that  station. 
Soon  after  this  Lieutenant-Colonel  Cooke  joined  General 
Kearney  at  San  Diego  with  the  Mormon  battalion,  which 
enabled  the  General  to  provide  against  any  reinforcements 
from  the  Mexican  province  of  Senoura  to  the  Califomians, 
by  stationing  it  as  a  guard  and  garrison  at  the  Mission  of 
San  Luis  Rego.  Captain  Tompkins  arrived  in  the  country  in 
February,  with  his  company  of  U.  S.  Artillery,  and  was 
stationed  at  Monterey,  and  the  arrival  of  Colonel  Steven- 
son, with  his  regiment  of  New  York  Volunteers,  formed  such 
a  force  as  was  considered  sufiicient  to  overawe  all  disaffec- 
tion and  opposition. 

In  July,  three  companies  of  the  New  York  regiment 
were  stationed  at  La  Paz,  in  Lower  California,  under  Lieu- 
tenant-Colonel Burton.  They  numbered  about  one  hundred 
men,  with  two  pieces  of  artillery.  The  United  States  sloop-of- 
war  "  Dale"  cruised  for  some  time  in  the  vicinity,  and  afforded 
protection  to  the  garrison  in  La  Paz,  but  Commodore  Shu- 


BY   THE    UNITED    STATES.  841 

brick  ordered  the  "  Dale''  to  Guaymas.  This  emboldened  the 
enemy,  who  collected  all  their  disposable  force  and  marched 
against  the  little  garrison.  The  battle  was  begun  on  the 
morning  of  the  IGth,  at  two  o'clock ;  a  loud  roll  of  musketry, 
followed  by  shouts,  gave  the  sleeping  soldiers  the  first  notice 
of  the  enemy's  presence.  The  Americans  stood  to  their  posts 
amid  a  shower  of  bullets,  although  the  night  was  so  dark  that 
they  were  unable  to  see  the  foe,  except  by  the  flashing  of  the 
musketry.  They  brought  their  artillery  to  bear  in  the  direc- 
tion of  the  enemy's  position,  and  a  few  discharges  was  followed 
by  a  complete  silence.  At  day-light  the  enemy  was  seen  to  be 
posted  on  a  hill  near  by,  waiting  until  the  women  and  children 
had  been  removed  from  the  town  to  renew  the  attack.  The 
garrison  availed  themselves  of  the  pause  to  fortify  the  roofs  of 
their  quarters  with  bales  of  cotton.  The  enemy  gained  pos- 
session of  the  bushes  surrounding  the  camp,  and  kept  up  a 
heavy  fire  from  eight  o'clock  until  night.  All  the  stratagems 
of  the  garrison  failed  to  induce  them  to  come  nearer,  yet 
Colonel  Burton  lost  only  one  man. 

In  the  afternoon  the  enemy  entered  the  town,  and  destroyed 
the  houses  of  all  who  had  been  favorable  to  the  Americans. 
On  the  20th  they  dragged  a  piece  of  artillery  on  the  most 
commanding  site  in  the  town.  A  hot  fire  then  commenced  on 
both  sides,  which  resulted  in  the  defeat  of  the  Mexicans. 
They  had  six  of  their  number  killed  and  forty-four  wounded, 
while  the  loss  of  Colonel  Burton  was  only  three  men.  After 
this  repulse  the  enemy  distributed  themselves  in  the  neighbor- 
hood, to  cut  oif  supplies  from  the  Americans. 

Meanwhile  a  force  of  nearly  four  hundred  of  the  insurgents 
marched  upon  San  Jose,  where  Lieutenant  Hey  wood  of  the 
navy  was  stationed  with  twenty  men  and  one  nine-pounder. 
lie  was  besieged  for  thirty  days,  but  he  refused  to  surrender, 


342  CONQUEST    OF    CALIFORNIA    BY    THE    U.    STATES. 

despite  of  thirst  and  famine.  On  the  night  of  the  second  day, 
a  grand  assault  was  made.  The  leader  of  the  Californians, 
Mejares,  led  forty  men  against  the  front  of  the  post,  while 
more  than  a  hundred  men,  with  scaling-ladders,  came  upon 
the  rear.  The  nine-pounder  opened  upon  them,  killed  Mejares 
and  three  of  his  soldiers,  and  drove  the  remainder  back  in 
great  disorder.  A  firing  was  kept  up  until  morning,  when  two 
American  whalers  entered  the  harbor,  the  crews  of  which 
landed,  and  with  this  assistance  Lieutenant  Heywood  soon  put 
the  enemy  to  flight.  In  the  month  of  October,  the  frigate 
"  Congress"  and  the  sloop-of-war  "  Portsmouth"  captured 
the  town  of  Guaymas,  which  was  garrisoned  by  eight  hundred 
efficient  men. 

The  country  now  became  quiet,  and  by  the  terms  of  the 
treaty  of  peace  between  the  two  governments,  the  boundary 
line  was  made  to  run  along  the  southern  line  of  New  Mexi- 
co to  its  westward  termination,  thence  northwardly  along  the 
western  line  of  New  Mexico  until  it  intersects  the  first  branch 
of  the  river  Gila,  thence  down  the  middle  of  said  branch  and 
of  the  said  river  until  it  empties  into  the  Rio  Colorado,  follow- 
ing the  division-line  between  Upper  and  Lower  California  to 
the  ocean.  Agreeably  to  this  treaty  the  American  forces 
abandoned  the  posts  they  held  in  Lower  California. 

The  discovery  of  Gold  in  the  waters  of  the  Sacramento  and 
other  streams,  as  also  among  the  rocks  and  in  the  mountains, 
has  drawn  to  the  country  thousands  of  emigrants  from  the 
United  States  and  other  parts  of  the  globe,  and  it  bids  fair  to 
become  at  an  early  day  one  of  the  most  populous  of  the  ter- 
ritories of  the  United  States. 


FROM  SAN  FRANCISCO  TO  HONOLULU.         8^ 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

FROM    SAN    FRANCISCO    TO    SINGAPORE,    EAST    INDIES. 

On  the  25th  of  October  I  received  orders  to  join  the  brig 
"  Oregon ;"  this  vessel  was  purchased  by  Captain  Wilkes 
after  the  loss  of  the  "  Peacock  "  for  the  sum  of  9,000  dollars. 
She  was  built  in  Baltimore,  is  of  170  tons  burthen,  was  origi- 
nally named  "  Thomas  Perkins,"  came  out  to  the  Sandwich 
Islands  with  an  assorted  cargo,  and  when  purchased  was  lying 
at  Astoria  taking  in  a  quantity  of  salmon.  In  a  day  or  two 
after  having  been  purchased,  she  was  stripped,  and  her  masts 
lifted  and  made  several  feet  shorter,  after  which  she  pro- 
ceeded up  to  Vancouver,  where  she  underwent  some  further 
alterations  and  repairs.  After  these  changes  were  made, 
Captain  Hudson  repaired  on  board  and  took  command,  and  on 
the  21st  of  September,  she  got  under- way,  in  company  with 
the  ''Porpoise,"  and  dropped  down  to  Fort  George,  (Astoria,) 
where  she  laid  until  the  12th  of  October,  when  she  sailed  for 
San  Francisco.  Captain  Hudson  then  gave  up  the  command, 
and  repaired  to  the  ''  Vincennes,"  and  Lieutenant  Overton 
Carr  was  ordered  in  his  stead. 

October  31st.  At  3.30  P.  M.  we  got  under-way  in  com- 
pany with  the  "Vincennes"  and  the  "Porpoise,"  and  pro- 
ceeded to  sea.  The  wind  being  a-head,  we  were  compelled  to 
beat,  which  afforded  us  a  fine  opportunity  of  seeing  the  Bay. 
In  one  of  the  stretches  we  stood  on  until  our  jib-boom  almost 
touched  the  cliff  on  which  the  Precidio  is  situated.     This  was 


344         FROM  SAN  FRANCISCO  TO  HONOLULU. 

built  by  the  Spaniards,  and  while  they  retained  possession  of 
the  country  was  strongly  fortified  and  well  garrisoned. 

About  7  P.  M.,  the  flood- tide  begun  to  make,  and  we  were 
compelled  to  let-go  the  anchor.  During  the  night  the  weather 
was  thick  and  disagreeable,  and  a  heavy  swell  set  in  from  the 
westward. 

On  the  morning  of  November  1st,  we  again  tripped  our 
anchor.  At  11  discovered  the  "  Vincennes"  under  sail  on 
our  starboard  quarter,  but  soon  lost  sight  of  her  from  the 
density  of  the  fog.  Nor  did  we  see  anything  of  her  until  about 
1  o'clock,  when  we  observed  both  her  and  the  "  Porpoise" 
lying  at  anchor.  We  wore  ship,  and  bore  down  for  them, 
and  when  close  a-board  spoke  with  the  "  Vincennes."  We 
then  hove-to,  and  continued  to  remain  so  until  about  half-past 
4,  when  both  vessels  proceeded  to  sea,  ourselves  following  in 
their  wake.  In  communicating  with  the  "  Vincennes,"  we 
learned  that  she  experienced  a  very  uncomfortable  night. 
Having  anchored  right  over  the  bar,  she  felt  the  swell  much 
more  than  either  the  "  Porpoise"  or  ourselves.  She  rolled 
almost  gunwales  under,  and  several  seas  broke  on  board,  one 
of  which  swept  away  a  portion  of  her  bulwarks,  and  killed  one 
of  the  crew.  It  is  understood  that  we  are  bound  to  the  Sand- 
wich Islands. 

On  the  6th,  the  "  Vincennes"  and  "  Porpoise"  parted 
company  with  us.  . 

On  the  8th,  we  passed  over  the  position  of  Cooper's  Island, 
as  given  upon  Arrowsmith's  Chart,  but  saw  no  indications  of 
land.  At  noon  our  latitude  was  25°  45'  55''  north,  longitude 
132°  16'  15"  west. 

At  11  A.  M.  on  the  19th,  we  reached  Honolulu,  where  we 
found  the  remainder  of  the  squadron. 

Our  principal  object  in  returning  to  Hon    alu  was,  to  fill 


OBSERVATIONS    ON    SINGAPORE,    EAST    INDIES.  345 


up  with  provisions  and  water.  This  being  accomplished,  we 
again  spread  our  sails,  and  on  the  22d  of  January  we  reached 
Singapore,  where  we  found  the  United '  States  frigate 
"  Constellation,"  Commodore  Kearney,  and  the  sloop-of-war 
"  Boston,''  Captain  Long,  forming  the  East  India  Squadron. 
We  communicated  with  both  vessels,  and  received  some  late 
newspapers  from  them. 

The  Island  of  Singapore  is  twenty- seven  miles  long,  and 
from  five  to  fifteen  miles  wide.  It  is  separated  from  the  penin- 
sula of  Malacca  by  the  Strait  of  Singapore,  formerly  followed 
by  navigators,  instead  of  the  one  which  is  now  universally 
used.  We  were  informed  that  the  interior  of  the  island  is 
infested  with  tigers,  and  that  it  is  a  common  thing  for  the  in- 
habitants to  be  destroyed  by  them  within  a  few  miles  of  the 
town.  Owing  to  these  attacks,  the  Government  has  been  in- 
duced to  offer  a  premium  of  fifty  dollars  for  every  tiger  that 
should  be  killed,  and  parties  have  been  organized,  which  fre- 
quently go  out  to  hunt  these  ferocious  animals. 

The  situation  of  the  town*  is  low,  for  which  reason  it  does 
not  appear  to  advantage  from  the  anchorage.  It  covers  a  great 
extent  of  ground,  and  many  of  the  buildings  are  spacious,  and 
built  in  the  European  style.  The  Governor's  dwelling  is  situ- 
ated on  the  summit  of  a  knoll  which  overlooks  the  city  and 
harbor.  In  the  rear  of  the  European  buildings  are  the  loca- 
tions of  the  Malay  and  Chinese  quarters.  The  houses  of  the 
former  are  built  on  posts  rising  four  or  five  feet  above  the 
ground.  The  object  of  this  is  to  keep  the  houses  dry  during 
the  rainy  seasons,  and  to  prevent  reptiles  and  other  noxious 
animals  from  entering  them. 

As  for  the  inhabitants,  a  more  motley  crowd  in  color  and 

♦  The  town  bears  the  same  name  as  the  island. 


846  OBSERVATIONS   ON    SINGAPORE,    EAST    INDIES. 

costume  cannot  well  be  conceived.  Tiie  language  of  nearly 
every  Asiatic  nation  throws  its  peculiar  accents  on  the  ear. 

The  trades,  like  most  of  the  eastern  cities,  are  carried  on  in 
the  streets.  Some  of  the  streets  are  exclusively  inhabited  by 
castes  who  work  at  the  same  trade.  In  one  may  be  seen 
the  workmen  in  brass  and  copper,  which  department  of  trade 
generally  embraces  the  manufacture  of  cooking-pans,  lamps, 
and  drinking  vessels,  and  similar  articles  of  domestic  use  ;  for 
all  these  things  are  made  of  copper  and  brass,  and  hammered 
out  to  the  proper  size  and  shape  by  manual  labor.  In  another 
street,  you  see  the  palankeen  builders,  house-joiners,  cabinet- 
makers, shoemakers,  tailors,  blacksmiths,  and  so  on.  The 
money-changers  take  up  their  position  at  the  corner  of  the 
streets,  with  their  little  tables  before  them  ready  to  transact 
business  at  a  moment's  notice.  These  men  act  sometimes  in 
the  capacity  of  pawnbrokers,  by  lending  small  sums  of  money 
upon  the  gold  and  silver  ornaments  which  all  here  possess  in 
a  greater  or  less  degree.  The  opium  vender  has  also  his  little 
table  in  the  public  street,  with  his  box  and  scales  upon  it,  and 
tempting  samples  of  the  "  dreamy  drug." 

This  fearful  species  of  intoxication  is  more  generally  prac- 
tised among  the  people  of  British  India,  than  has  been  com- 
monly supposed.  The  Mohammedans  are  particularly  addicted 
to  its  use,  and  much  of  the  apathy  and  indifference  observable 
in  the  native  character,  may  be  attributed  to  this  universal 
evil,  which  would  seem  to  be  daily  gaining  ground  among 
them.  Few  can  be  surprised  that  'the  Emperor  of  China  is 
so  anxious  to  prevent  the  importation  of  opium*  into  his  do- 

♦  The  engrossing  taste  of  all  ranks  and  degrees  in  China,  for  opium,  a  drug 
whose  importation  has  of  late  years  exceeded  the  aggregate  value  of  every  other 
English  import  combined,  deserves  some  particular  notice,  especially  in  connection 
with  the  revenues  of  British  India,  of  which  it  forms  an  important  item.  The 
use  of  this  pernicious  narcotic  has  become  as  extensive  as  the  increasing  demand 
for  it  was  rapid  from  the  &TBt.— Chinese  Repository. 


OBSERVATIONS    ON    SINGAPORE,    EAST    INDIES.  347 

minions  by  the  English.  Well  might  this  monarch  regard 
that  potent  drug  as  a  curse  to  a  nation,  which  has  already 
begun  to  suffer  from  its  dangerous  seduction,  and  which  shows 
for  it  a  decided  taste. 

A  single  glance  of  these  opium  dealers  will  convince  you 
that  they  are  their  own  best  customers.  Their  soiled  and  dis- 
orderly dress,  the  palsied  hand  and  pale  cheek,  the  sunken 
eye  and  vacant  stare  of  each  of  these  wretched  men,  show 
you  that  they  are  not  themselves. 

The  Chinese  Bazaar  is  filled  with  goods  manufactured  in 
that  industrious  country.  Here  you  may  purchase  beautiful 
Canton  shawls,  for  fifteen  or  twenty  dollars,  rich  silks  and 
satins,  carved  ivory-work  in  chessmen,  backgammon  boxes, 
card-cases,  grass-cloth  handkerchiefs,  vases,  chimney-piece 
ornaments,  tea-pots,  and  the  familiar  little  tea-cups  and  sau- 
cers so  highly  esteemed  by  the  ladies.  There  are  also  found 
here  camphor-wood  trunks,  so  useful  to  preserve  clothing, 
books,  and  furs,  from  the  white  ants,  which  are  so  destructive 
to  this  sort  of  property. 

But  in  trading  with  the  Chinese,  it  is  necessary  to  be  care- 
ful. They  call  all  Europea,ns  "  foreign  devils,''  and  consider 
them  a  fair  game.  But  the  greatest  cheats  among  them  are 
those  who  come  oflf  to  the  ships  to  sell  their  goods,  as  these 
not  only  ask  the^highest  prices,  but  invariably  give  you  a  bad 
article. 

The  Chinese  are  very  numerous  in  Singapore,  and  all  seem 
to  be  industrious.  They  dress  after  the  manner  of  their 
country ;  and  we  saw  some  whose  queus  almost  touched  the 
ground.  It  is  said  that  they  return  home  as  soon  as  they 
have  acquired  something  like  a  competency,  though  they  run 
the  risk  of  being  punished  by  the  Emperor,  for  having  left 
China.     They  have  a  popular  saying,  "  If  he,  who  attains  to 


848  OBSERVATIONS    ON    SINGAPORE,    EAST    INDIES. 

honors  or  wealth,  never  returns  to  his  native  place,  he  is  like 
a  finely-dressed  person  walking  in  the  dark — it  is  all  thrown 
away." 

The  extent  to  which  they  carried  gaming,  after  the  regular 
business  hours  were  over,  could  not  fail  to  attract  our  atten- 
tion. Gaming  was  going  on  in  all  their  shops  and  houses,  and 
their  whole  soul  seemed  to  be  staked  with  their  money.  They 
use  cards  and  dice ;  but  their  games  are  different  from  our 
own.  The  stake  in  general  was  a  small  copper  coin,  not 
larger  than  a  dime.  It  was  also  observed,  that  they  are  pas- 
sionately fond  of  theatrical  entertainments.  These  take  place 
under  a  temporary  shed,  which  is  only  large  enough  to  accom- 
modate the  performers.  The  interior  is  decorated  with  silk 
hangings,  and  illuminated  with  many  colored  lamps.  The 
stage  is  furnished  with  a  table  and  chairs,  but  without  scenicai 
decorations  to  assist  the  story,  as  in  our  theatres.  The  actors 
are  magnificently  dressed  in  silk  and  gold  cloth,  adorned  with 
jewels.  The  females  are  represented  by  young  men.  I 
cannot  say  much  for  the  acting,  or  music ;  the  former  appeared 
stiff,  the  latter  a  perfect  jargon. 

One  day  I  visited  their  principal  Josh-house,  or  temple. 
It  is  a  very  singular-looking  edifice ;  the  roof  is  surmounted 
with  dragons,  and  a  thousand  of  other  whimsical  devices. 
The  columns  supporting  the  front  are  likewise  very  curiously 
sculptured.  It  has  no  windows ;  and  the  main  entrance,  in- 
stead of  being  in  the  centre  of  the  building,  is  near  one  of  the 
corners.  Its  interior  may  be  described  as  a  square  court,  sur- 
rounded by  a  portico  filled  with  niches,  containing  the  wooden 
images  to  which  adoration  is  paid.  The  space  in  the  centre 
of  the  court  is  paved  and  furnished  with  seats,  which  are 
occupied  by  the  worshipers.  All  the  idols  are  representations 
of  the  human  form  in  its  most  bulky  aspect ;  they  seemed  to 


OBSERVATIONS    ON    SINGAPORE,    EAST    INDIES.  349 

have  quite  as  much  circumference  as  height.  One  of  them 
was  a  female  figure,  dressed  in  silks,  and  painted,  with  much 
tinsel  and  gilding  about  the  head.  In  front  of  each  idol  w^e 
altars,  on  which  were  Josh-sticks  burning,  colored  wax-candles, 
flowers,  dried  fruits,  and  sugar-plums  wrapped  up  in  colored 
paper.  At  the  time  I  entered,  the  priesthood,  five  in  number, 
were  assembled,  worshiping,  chanting,  striking  gongs,  and 
frequently  prostrating  themselves  before  their  wooden-deities. 
This  mummery  lasted  nearly  half  an  hour,  and  the  priests  ap- 
peared to  go  through  it  with  devotion.  They  were  all  young 
men,  had  the  crown  of  their  heads  shaved,  and  wore  long 
yellow  robes.  As  soon  as  the  mummery  had  ceased,  they  left 
the  temple,  retired  to  their  private  apartments,  and  divested 
themselves  of  their  official  robes ;  and  the  gods  were  left  to 
themselves,  with  the  Josh-sticks  burning  on  the  altars. 

On  another  day  I  set  out  to  visit  the  Mohammedan  Mosque, 
but  I  found  the  entrance  of  this  guarded  by  two  or  three 
stupid-looking  fellows,  who  would  not  allow  me  admittance, 
although  I  offered  to  take  off  my  shoes  before  entering.  It  is 
a  neat,  handsome  building  externally,  but  only  the  upper  por- 
tion of  it  can  be  seen  when  viewed  from  the  street,  as  it  stands 
at  the  further  end  of  a  long  court,  surrounded  by  a  high  stone 
wall.  Its  mineret  is  kept  white- washed,  and  forms  a  beautiful 
and  a  conspicuous  object  in  the  landscape. 

The  majority  of  the  Mohammedans  at  Singapore  are 
Malays  and  their  descendants,  and  it  is  universally  conceded 
by  travelers  that  they  constitute  the  most  worthless  part  of 
the  population,  being  excessively  lazy,  treacherous,  quarrel- 
some, and  addicted  to  the  use  of  opium. 

The  color  of  their  skin  is  several  shades  darker  than  that 
of  the  Chinese,  and  they  usually  wear  moustaches  and  beard. 
Their  dress  consists  of  a  white  turban,  a  shirt  with  very 


350  OBSERVATIONS    ON    SINGAPORE,    EAST    INDIES. 

ample  sleeves,  a  colored  embroidered  vest,  fitting  tight  to  the 
body,  loose  trowsers  made  of  white  cotton  cloth,  and  yellow 
or  red  slippers.  To  beautify  themselves,  they  chew  the  betal- 
jiut,  which  causes  their  teeth  to  become  as  black  as  ebony. 
They  n\^.ke  good  soldiers,  or  sepoys,  and  many  of  them  are 
employed  to  act  in  that  capacity  by  the  British  East  India 
Government.  The  women,  who  are  not  so  much  exposed  to 
the  rays  of  the  sun,  are  less  tawny  than  the  men ;  their  coun- 
tenance is  comely,  their  hair  black  and  fine ;  they  have  a  deli- 
cate hand,  brilliant  eyes,  and  a  graceful  figure. 

There  are  many  Parsees  residing  in  Singapore,  and  some 
of  the  best  shops  are  kept  by  them ;  they  prefer  trading  in 
English  and  French  goods,  which  they  have  consigned  to  them, 
or  purchase  at  the  auctions.  Some  of  them  have  acquired 
large  fortunes,  and  live  in  a  princely  style.  They  are  a  hand- 
some race,  and  there  is  an  easy  grace  about  all  their  move- 
ments. The  ladies  pass  their  lives  in  great  seclusion  from 
the  world,  for  they  are  supposed  to  lose  caste  if  they  appear  in 
public. 

The  Persic  language  is  celebrated  for  its  strength,  beauty, 
and  melody,  and  they  write  it  from  the  right  to  the  left. 

The  Parsees*  do  not  tolerate  polygamy,  unless  the  first  wife 
prove  barren,  nor  do  their  laws  allow  concubinage.  They 
cannot  eat  or  drink  out  of  the  same  vessel  with  one  of  a  dif- 
ferent religion,  nor  are  they  fond  even  of  using  the  cup  of 
another,  for  fear  of  partaking  of  his  sins.  Their  religion, 
however,  admits  of  proselytism.  They  have  no  fasts,  and  re- 
ject everything  of  the  nature  of  penance.  God,  they  say, 
delights  in  the  happiness  of  his  creatures ;  and  they  hold  it 
meritorious  to  enjoy  the  best  of  everything  they  can  obtain. 

•  The  Hindoos  say  the    Persees  are  outcasts  of  Persia  ;  but  this  they  indignantly 
4eny,  though  it  is  supposed  many  of  them  were  driven  out  in  the  eighth  century. 


351 


Birds  and  beasts  of  prey,  the  dog  and  the  hare,  are  forbidden 
as  food.  Their  faith  inculcates  general  benevolence,  to  be 
honest  in  bargains,  to  be  kind  to  one's  cattle,  and  faithful  to 
masters ;  to  give  the  priests  their  due,  physicians  their  fees, 
and  these  last  are  enjoined  to  try  their  sanitory  experiments 
on  infidels  before  practising  on  Par  sees.  They  never  willingly 
throw  filth  either  into  fire  or  water.  This  reverence  for  the 
elements  prevents  them  from  being  sailors,  as  in  a  long  voyage 
they  might  be  forced  to  defile  the  sea. 

When  a  relation  is  dying,  they  recite  over  him  prescribed 
prayers,  and  have  a  dog  at  hand  to  drive  away  the  evil  spirits 
that  flock  around  the  bed ;  after  death  the  body  is  dressed 
in  old  but  clean  clothes,  and  conveyed  on  an  iron  frame  to  the 
tomb  on  the  shoulders  of  the  bearers,  who  are  tied  together 
with  a  piece  of  tape,  in  order  to  deter  the  demons,  which  are 
supposed  to  be  hovering  near,  from  molesting  the  corpse.  It 
is  well  known  that  they  neither  burn  nor  bur}^  their  dead. 
They  have  circular  towers  called  dockmehs^  in  which  are  con- 
structed inclined  planes,  and  on  these  they  expose  the  bodies, 
courting  the  fowls  of  the  air  to  feed  upon  them.  They  even 
draw  augeries  regarding  the  happiness  or  misery  of  the  de- 
ceased, according  as  the  left  eye  or  the  right  eye  is  first  picked 
out  by  the  vultures. 

There  are  several  pleasant  rides  about  Singapore  The  sur- 
rounding country  is  interspersed  with  groves  and  gardens, 
and  the  roads  are  good,  and  free  from  dust,  for  almost 
every  day  in  the  year  the  island  is  visited  by  one  or  two  re- 
freshing showers.  The  vehicle  most  used  is  the  palankeen, 
which  is  capable  of  containing  two  persons  ;  it  is  drawn  by  a 
single  horse,  and  the  driver,  who  is  usually  a  Malay,  runs  by 
the  side  of  a  carriage ;  the  charge  for  a  whole  day  is  a  dollar, 
and  it  is  customary  to  give  something  to  the  driver. 


852  OBSERVATIONS    ON    SINGAPORE,    EAST    INDIES. 

There  are  good  markets  in  Singapore  for  the  sale  of  butcher's 
meat,  fish,  fruits,  and  vegetables.  Everything  in  the  shape  of 
food  is  very  cheap,  and  our  mess  bill  was  as  small  here  as  at 
any  place  we  visited  in  the  course  of  our  long  cruise. 

Some  idea  may  be  formed  of  the  commerce  of  Singapore, 
when  it  is  stated,  that,  for  the  last  two  or  three  years,  it  has 
been  valued  at  $25,000,000.  It  is  a  free  port ;  there  are  no 
duties  on  imports  or  exports,  and  every  vessel  is  allowed  to 
come  and  go  when  it  pleases.  There  are  many  articles  shipped 
here  which  are  the  products  of  other  places ;  among  these 
are  opium,  nutmegs,  cloves,  coffee,  sugar,  teas,  and  a  variety 
of  shells.  Business  is  conducted  upon  a  sure  basis ;  payment 
must  be  made  at  the  delivery  of  the  goods.  Accounts  are 
kept  in  dollars  and  cents,  and  almost  every  thing  is  sold  by 
weight. 

On  the  25th  of  February  we  sailed  for  St.  Helena,  where 
we  arrived  after  a  pleasant  passage  of  thirteen  days. 


CHAPTER  XXV, 

FROM    ST.    HELENA    TO    THE    UNITED    STATES. 

The  appearance  which  St.  Helena  presents,  when  viewed 
from  the  ocean,  is  anything  but  inviting;  nearly  the  whole 
of  its  coast  is  steep  and  perpendicular  like  a  wall,  dotted  here 
and  there  with  miserably  stunted  trees. 

The  island  was  discovered  by  the  Portuguese  on  the  21st 
of  May,  in  the  year  1502,  and  was  called  by  them  St.  Helena, 
from  the  fact  that  the  same  day  was  the  anniversary  of  the 
Empress  Helena,  a  Saint  in  the  Roman  Catholic  calendar. 

In  a  valley,  where  they  found  a  productive  soil  and  abun- 
dance of  excellent  water,  the  discoverers  planted  a  small 
colony;  they  also  stocked  the  valley  with  goats,  horses,  cattle, 
and  many  other  animals  useful  to  man,  which  soon  multiplied 
and  spread  over  the  whole  island. 

About  the  year  1651,  the  English  East  India  Company 
took  possession  of  the  island,  it  having  been  abandoned  some 
time  before  by  the  Dutch,  who  took  it  from  the  Portuguese  in 
the  early  part  of  the  17th  century.  The  English  introduced 
into  the  island,  as  the  Portuguese  had  done  before  them, 
horses,  sheep,  grains  and  fruits.  Tempting  inducements  were 
held  out  to  emigrants,  and  many  were  induced  to  settle  in  its 
rich  and  romantic  valleys. 

In  1815,  the  island  became  the  involuntary  residence  of 
Napoleon,  a  circumstance  which  has  shed  over  it  undying  in- 
terest, and  rendered  its  name  in  every  part  of  the  civilized 
globe  as  familiar  as  a  household  word. 


354  ST.  HELENA. 


The  island  remained  in  the  hands  of  the  East  India  Com- 
pany until  1836,  when  it  was  transferred  to  the  British 
Government. 

The  chmate  is  salubrious.  One  old  voyager  who  describes 
it,  informs  us  that  the  sick  men  who  had  been  carried  on 
shore  in  hammocks,  and  utterly  unable  to  walk,  were  cured 
and  made  perfect  in  a  week's  time,  and  were  soon  able  to 
"  leap  and  dance  "  as  well  as  their  companions.  All  of  which 
wonderful  effects  were  attributed  the  wholesomeness  of  the  air, 
and  the  fresh  trade- wind&  constantly  sweeping  over  the  island, 
and  driving  away  all  distempers. 

The  population  is  estimated  at  five  thousand,  and  consists 
of  whites,  negroes,  mulattoes,  and  Chinese.  The  negroes  were 
brought  to  the  island  by  the  East  India  Company  from  Mada- 
gascar, and  were  treated  as  slaves  until  the  year  1823  ;  they 
and  their  descendants  now  form  the  largest  portion  of  the 
population. 

Vessels  going  to  and  from  the  East  Indies  usually  touch 
at  the  island  to  replenish  their  stock  of  water  and  procure 
fresh  provisions. 

Jamestown,  the  capital,  is  the  largest  town  that  the  island 
can  boast  of,  and  is  a  free  port.  It  is  situated  in  a  valley, 
or  rather  a  gorge  between  two  lofty  hills,  both  of  which  ter- 
minate abruptly,  and  form  the  eastern  and  western  boundaries 
of  the  town,  as  also  a  small  bay  in  which  the  vessels  anchor 
that  visit  the  place.  The  harbor  is  defended  by  fortifica- 
tions, which  cover  the  shore  from  the  water-line  to  the  highest 
peaks.  A  ladder,  of  nearly  a  perpendicular  height,  is  built 
up  the  side  of  the  western  mountain,  called  Ladder  Hill.  It 
is  said  to  have  five  hundred  steps  in  it,  and  is  a  conspicuous 
object  from  the  anchorage. 

The  landing  is  convenient  for  visitors  and  trade ;  it  is  fur- 


VISIT    TO    napoleon's    TOMB.  356 

nished  with  a  stone  stairs  and  a  crane  for  loading  and  unload- 
ing boats.  From  the  landing  a  good  road  leads  toward  the 
town  at  the  mouth  of  the  valley,  which  is  protected  from  an 
attack  by  sea  by  a  ditch  and  a  high  massive  wall,  bristling 
with  guns. 

There  is  but  one  entrance  into  the  town,  and  that  is  closed 
at  nightfall.  There  are  also  sentinels  stationed  here  at  all 
hours.  Just  beyond  the  gateway  is  the  grand  parade,  around 
which  stand  the  church,  the  principal  hotel  of  the  place,  and 
the  building  occupied  by  Napoleon  on  his  first  landing. 

The  houses  are  from  one  to  two  stories  in  height,  and  have 
their  walls  painted  white  or  yellow.  Some  of  them  are  also 
furnished  with  verandahs. 

The  market  is  good,  but  meats  and  eggs  are  excessively 
dear.  The  price  for  beef  is  20  cents  per  lb. ;  mutton,  18 
cents  ;  eggs,  50  cents  per  dozen. 

Of  course,  before  leaving  the  island,  we  rode  out  to  Long- 
wood,  and  the  tomb.  Our  conveyance  was  a  covered  carriage, 
drawn  by  a  pair  of  horses,  and  just  large  enough  to  accommo- 
date two  persons  comfortably. 

The  road  we  pursued,  and  there  is  no  other  leading  to  the 
tomb  from  the  town,  is  cut  on  the  side  of  the  eastern  hill, 
which  gradually  rises  to  an  elevation  of  upwards  of  a  thousand 
feet.  This  afforded  us  several  fine  views  of  Jamestown — We 
could  see  all  the  houses,  the  gardens,  the  soldiers'  hospital, 
the  barracks,  the  church,  the  botanic  garden,  and  the  grand 
parade. 

After  leaving  the  town  we  did  not  fall  in  with  a  solitary 
tree  until  we  reached  the  head  of  the  valley.  Here  the  soil  is 
capable  of  cultivation,  and  we  passed  many  a  garden  in  which 
were  to  be  seen,  besides  a  great  variety  of  vegetables,  trelisses 
of  vines,  from  which  depended  clusters  of  the  tempting  and 


856  ST.    HELE^A. 


delicious  fruit,  peach,  almond  and  date  trees,  and  patches  of 
flowers,  among  which  the  rose  and  pink  were  conspicuous. 
We  likewise  observed  on  our  right  and  left,  but  some  miles  in 
the  distance,  a  succession  of  hills  in  wood,  looking  verdant, 
cool  and  beautiful. 

The  next  object  which  attracted  our  attention  was  the 
"  Briars,"  a  little  hamlet,  composed  of  some  half-dozen  cot- 
tages, one  of  which  was  the  residence  of  the  ex-Emperor,  until 
Longwood  could  be  prepared  for  his  reception.  It  is  a  small, 
quaint  building,  with  a  high,  steep  roof,  gable  ends,  and  a 
verandah.  The  grounds  attached  to  it  are  also  of  limited  ex- 
tent, and  surrounded  by  a  common  stone- wall.  Indeed,  there 
is  scarcely  a  New  England  farmer  whose  abode  is  not  superior 
to  it  in  every  respect.  Yet  I  was  informed  by  the  inhabitants 
that  Napoleon  preferred  the  place  to  better  houses  in  the 
town,  where  he  would  be  annoyed  by  the  curiosity  of  the 
populace. 

The  road  beyond  the  "  Briars  "  is  winding,  and  presents  a 
great  variety  of  landscape.  In  one  place  it  sweeps  by  thick 
hedges,  inclosing  fields  in  which  sheep,  cattle,  and  horses  are 
feeding ;  in  another,  it  passes  through  dark  masses  of  fir  and 
pine ;  in  another,  it  runs  down  into  a  deep  ravine ;  and  in 
another  again,  it  traverses  a  plain  overshadowed  with  trees 
and  sprinkled  with  cottages,  looking  so  neat  and  prim  that  one 
cannot  help  envying  their  owners,  and  wish  that  he  could 
share  with  them  the  de^hts  which  such  charming  abodes  must 
afibrd. 

Not  many  yards  distant  from  these  sylvan  residences,  lies  a 
dell,  shut  in  by  hills,  covered  with  grass  and  brambles.  At 
the  foot  of  the  most  lofty  hill  stands  a  lonely  cottage,  sur- 
rounded by  trees — a  little  beyond  the  solitary  dwelling, 
among  some  weeping  willows,  and  two  or  three  melancholy 


357 


cypress,  is  the  Tomb.  The  spot  is  private  property,  belonging 
to  the  widow  lady,  Mrs.  Talbot,  who  occupies  the  cottage,  and 
who  furnishes  visitors  with  refreshments.  There  is  a  poetic 
eflfusion  in  the  "  Visitors'  Book,"  alluding  to  the  circumstance 
last  mentioned : — 

"  There  you  will  find  an  excellent  cheer, 
Bread  and  cheese,  and  ale  and  beer ; 
And  while  Mrs.  T.  gives  bread  and  butter. 
Its  my  intention  never  to  cut  her." 

One  end  of  the  iron  railing  round  the  Tomb  is  open  for  thf> 
purpose  of  admitting  visitors.  The  grave  remains  uncovered, 
or  just  as  the  French  left  it  when  they  exhumed  the  body. 

"  Napoleon  's  gone !  the  Island  Tomb 
No  more  his  corpse  contains  ; 
A  prince  and  noble  ship  have  come. 
And  taken  his  remains." 

What  remained  of  the  original  willows  planted  by  the  hand 
of  Madame  Bertrand  around  the  Tomb,  were  carried  away  by 
Prince  Joinville,  as  well  as  the  slabs  that  closed  the  recess  in 
which  the  coffin  was  placed.  The  Tomb  is  carried  only  a  few 
feet  above  the  ground,  and  is  utterly  devoid  of  ornament ;  nor 
does  it  bear  any  date,  name,  or  inscription.  The  location  is  a 
very  appropriate  one,  but  the  tomb  itself  excites  our  disgust 
and  indignation,  for  the  inference  is,  that  the  enemies  of 
Napoleon  sought  to  gratify  their  animosity  after  his  death,  by 
insulting  his  remains,  than  which  nothing  can  be  more  despi- 
cable and  unmanly.  The  slabs  taken  away  by  Prince  Join- 
ville formed  a  part  of  the  kitchen-hearth  of  the  house  at 
Longwood ! 

Mrs.  Talbot  resided  at  the  cottage  while  the  Emperor  was 
living,  and  she  informed  us  that  the  site  of  the  grave  was 


358  ST.  HELENA. 


chosen  by  himself.  She  also  pointed  out  to  us  the  spring  near 
the  cottage,  which  supplied  him  with  water  up  to  the  day  of 
his  death. 

One  pleasant  afternoon  while  walking  through  the  grounds. 
Napoleon  observed  the  spring,  admired  its  beautiful  pebbly 
bottom,  dipped  up  some  of  the  water  with  his  hand,  and  drank 
it,  found  it  to  be  delightfully  cool,  refreshing,  and  delicious ; 
he  requested  that  while  he  lived  he  might  be  allowed  to  obtain 
all  his  water  from  the  same  spring,  and  the  favor  was 
granted. 

Mrs.  Talbot  hinted  to  us,  as  she  had  done  before  about  the 
refreshments,  that  it  was  customary  for  visitors  to  purchase 
some  of  the  water  by  way  of  paying  her  for  seeing  the  Tomb, 
and  we  were  not  slow  in  taking  the  hint.  Each  of  us  filled 
a  quart  bottle  with  the  precious  liquid,  for  which  she  received 
several  dollars.  We  had  also  to  satisfy  the  demands  of  the 
garrulous  old  sergeant  who  exhibits  the  Tomb,  so  that  alto- 
gether it  was  expensive  sight-seeing. 

The  old  fellow's  account,  rattled  oiF  as  it  was  by  him, 
amused  me  much,  and  I  took  care  to  write  it  down  on  the 
spot.  The  following  is  a  correct  copy  of  the  original : — 
"  Misters,  how  d'ye  do  ?  Fine  day  to  see  sights,  gentlemen. 
Well,  misters,  here's  the  railing  round  the  ground,  and  there's 
the  paling  round  the  tomb,  eight  feet  deep,  six  feet  long,  and 
three  feet  wide.  Napoleon  was  buried  in  three  coflBns,  one  in 
another — his  head  was  here — his  feet  was  there  ;  he  was 
dressed  in  a  green  coat,  white  breeches,  and  jack-boots — beau- 
tifully polished,  with  his  cocked  hat  between  his  legs,  and  his 
heart  in  a  silver  pot  at  his  feet.  All  the  island  Came  to  the 
funeral,  and  the  soldiers  fired  a  royal  salute.  These  are  not 
the  willers  that  have  been  taken  away,  but  I  have  got  some 
slips  from  the  real  tree  in  (harge  of  my  good  woman — will  you 


859 


come  and  look  at  them,  misters  1  They  are  the  best  that  can 
te  had,  mister.  That's  a  fine  one ;  yes,  indeed,  h  'ill  grow 
— stick  him  in  this  bottle ;  its  worth  two  shillings,  any  man's 
money,  but  you  may  have  it  for  one.  Hum  !  thank  you,  mis- 
ter, and  God  bless  you,  and  all  like  you.  This  is  the  spring, 
and  that's  the  water;  here's  a  mug  to  taste;  oh!  it  is 
cool,  just  as  Napoleon  used  to  drink  it,  when  he  came  here 
afore  he  was  buried,  to  play  with  Madame  Bertrand's  chil- 
dren, and  read  there  where  the  willers  used  to  stand  what  are 
gone  now,  the  present  time.  Here's  the  Visitors'  Book,  what 
they  write  their  names  in — here,  this  way,  in  the  sentry-box — 
here's  the  ink,  and  there's  the  pen ;  please  to  write  your 
name,  all  you  gentlemen — A-hem  ! — ^it  is  full  of  poetry  in  all 
kinds  of  lingoes.  See,  misters,  for  yourself.  I  once  could 
read  a  little,  but  now  I  am  very  old — A-hem ! — Misters, 
when  you  got  your  names  in  the  book — a-hem  ! — please  give  a 
trifle  for  showing ;  this  way,  sir.  Thank  ye,  sir — you  are 
fine  gentlemen — ^good  day." 

From  the  Tomb  we  proceeded  to  Longwood,  which  we 
reached  in  less  than  half  an  hour.  The  road  is  good,  and 
occasionally  offers  pieces  of  landscape,  which  are  singularly 
wild  and  romantic.  On  our  way  we  passed  "  Hut's  Gate," 
which  for  some  time  was  the  residence  of  General  Bertrand. 
At  this  retired  spot  Napoleon  passed  many  a  pleasant  hour  in 
the  society  of  his  faithful  friend  and  family.  It  is  stated  that 
he  was  very  fond  of  the  General's  children,  and  frequently 
joined  them  in  their  sports. 

On  reaching  the  gate  at  Longwood  we  were  required  to  pay 
an  admission  fee  of  fifty  cents  for  each  person.  A  retired 
army  officer  has  obtained  a  lease  of  the  place  from  the 
government,  and  by  his  order  the  entrance  fee  is  demanded 
before  the  gate  is  opened. 


360  ST.  HELENA 


Longwood  is  a  long  narrow  field,  interspersed  with  clumps 
of  firs  and  gumwood  trees.  The  house  in  which  the  ex-Em- 
peror spent  the  last  years  of  his  strange  and  varied  life,  the 
stables,  the  fences,  everything  is  sadly  neglected,  and,  ere 
another  quarter  of  a  century  passes  away,  nothing  will  be  left 
of  the  scene  but  a  pile  of  ruins.  The  house  is  built  of  wood, 
and  was  once  painted  green.  It  has  a  small  trellised  porch 
before  the  main  entrance,  is  ascended  by  one  or  two  wooden 
steps,  almost  entirely  overgrown  with  moss  and  grass,  and  the 
sides  of  the  building  are  covered  with  names,  initials,  dates, 
and  lines  of  poetry.  Viewed  externally,  it  appears  an  exten- 
sive pile,  but  many  of  the  buildings  now  seen  on  the  spot 
were  not  there  during  the  life  of  Napoleon;  they  were 
brought  from  the  surrounding  country,  where  they  had  served, 
for  the  soldiers  stationed  there  to  watch  the  Emperor  and 
prevent  his  escape.  He  was  allowed  to  walk  and  ride  at 
almost  any  hour  he  pleased,  but  he  could  not  stir  without 
being  seen  from  some  of  the  numerous  observation-towers 
erected  on  the  neighboring  hills.  About  a  mile  from  Long- 
wood  was  a  large  encampment  of  soldiers.  At  dusk  they 
mounted  guard,  and  the  place  was  surrounded  by  sen- 
tinels. 

We  looked  into  the  rooms;  they  are  small  and  badly 
lighted — the  wood-work  much  decayed — the  walls  scribbled 
over,  and  the  floors  covered  with  dust  and  filth.  The  room  in 
which  the  Emperor  breathed  his  last  is  occupied  by  a  huge 
winnowing  machine,  and  was  strewed  with  chaff  and  straw. 
The  apartment  in  which  he  laid  in  state  after  his  death,  is 
now  used  as  a  stable.  The  library  serves  as  a  hen-house,  and 
we  found  it  filled  with  chickens  and  turkeys.  His  bed-room, 
like  all  the  rest,  is  sadly  dilapidated,  and  the  window  which 
lighted  it  is  boarded  up.     Taken  altogether,  it  is  a  pile  of 


VISIT  TO  napoleon's  TOMB.  361 


universal  ruin,  doomed,  as  I  have  before  observed,  at  no 
distant  time  to  entirely  disappear. 

There  are  no  traces  remaining  of  the  gardens,  but  the 
little-fish  pond  is  still  in  tolerable  preservation.  It  is  asserted 
that  before  the  Emperor's  own  earthly  career  was  closed,  all 
the  fishes  sickened  and  died,  and  that  the  incident  deeply 
affected  him,  for  he  sought  amusement  in  attending  them 
himself,  and  watching  their  gambolings.  When  the  last 
little  favorite  was  gone,  he  exclarimed,  "  Yes,  everything  I 
love,  everything  that  belongs  to  me  is  immediately  struck. 
Heaven  and  mankind  unite  to  afflict  me." 

Not  many  paces  distant  from  the  crumbling  and  deserted 
building  we  have  been  describing,  may  be  seen  the  new  resi- 
dence built  for  the  use  of  Napoleon.  It  is  constructed  of 
yellow  sand-stone,  one  story  in  height,  and  stands  on  the  de- 
clivity of  a  gently  sloping  hill.  The  house  is  much  larger 
and  more  convenient  than  the  old  one ;  but  he  took  a  strong 
dislike  to  it,  and  would  never  occupy  it.  The  grounds  are 
rather  pretty,  and  the  whole  is  surrounded  with  a  neat  stone- 
wall, surmounted  by  an  iron-railing.  It  was  the  sight  of  these 
walls  and  iron-rails  that  gave  the  Emperor  such  disgust  for 
the  new  residence ;  for,  he  said  they  would  constantly  remind 
him  he  was  a  prisoner-of-war.  We  found  the  building  occu- 
pied by  Lieutenant  Smith,  of  the  Artillery,  who  had  charge  of 
the  Magnetic  Observatory. 

It  may  be  interesting  to  add  to  this  description  the  follow- 
ing particulars.  Napoleon  and  his  suite  arrived  at  St.  Helena 
on  the  15th  of  October,  1815,  under  charge  of  Admiral  Cock- 
burn.  It  is  stated  the  island  was  first  suggested  as  a  suitable 
place  of  confinement  for  the  fallen  Emperor  by  the  Duke  of 
Wellington,  who  had  been  there  himself,  and  was  forcibly 
impressed  with  its  natural  strength. 


C02  ST.    HELENA. 


Immediately  the  royal  captive  was  delivered  over  to  Sir 
Hudson  Lowe,  who  was  made  responsible  for  his  security. 
This  officer  received  all  his  orders  relative  to  the  treatment 
of  Napoleon  from  the  ministry,  and  was  not  allowed  to  exer- 
cise any  discretion  in  the  execution  of  them. 

On  the  5th  of  May,  1821,  the  great  man  departed  this  life; 
his  body  was  subjected  to  a  post  mortem  examination,  and  it 
was  discovered  that  he  died  of  cancer  of  the  stomach. 

He  expired  amidst  a  tempest  of  wind  and  rain. 

*  Dark  was  the  night,  and  wild  the  storm. 

And  loud  the  torrents  roar ; 
And  loud  the  sea  was  heard  to  dash 
Against  the  distant  shore." 

Many  trees  were  laid  prostrate  by  the  storm,  and  among 
the  rest  his  favorite  willow,  beneath  whose  shade  he  often  sat 
reading,  or  wrapt  up  in  meditation. 

On  the  9th  of  May,  he  was  buried  with  military  honors. 
It  was  his  dying  wish  to  repose  in  France.  After  a  lapse  of 
nearly  twenty  years  his  request  was  complied  with ;  England 
then  gave  her  consent  to  his  removal,  and  the  frigate  "  Belle 
Poule,"  under  the  command  of  Prince  Joinville,  was  dis- 
patched to  St.  Helena  by  the  French  Government  to  fulfill 
the  mission.  Among  the  men  that  accompanied  the  Prince, 
were  four  who  were  devoted  friends  of  the  Emperor,  and  lived 
with  him  in  his  captivity — Marchand,  Gourgaud,  Las  Casses, 
and  Bertrand. 

After  the  coffin  was  disinterred,  it  was  conveyed  to  a  tent 
prepared  for  its  reception.  There  it  was  opened,  and  the 
mortal  remains  of  Napoleon  were  found  unchanged.  He 
seemed  asleep,  so  perfect  were  all  his  features.  His  old 
friends  beheld  him  there  just  as  they  had  placed  him  some 


ARRIVAL    AT    NEW    YORK.  363 

twenty  years  before ;  and  it  is  almost  impossible  for  language 
to  describe  their  emotion.  They  kissed  the  coflSn  again  and 
again,  and  streams  of  tears  flowed  down  their  cheeks. 

Amid  the  roar  of  guns  and  other  martial  honors  the  body 
was  embarked,  and  on  the  18th  of  October,  1840,  the  "  Belle 
Poule  "  weighed  her  anchors,  and  sailed  for  France. 

On  the  arrival  of  the  frigate  at  Brest,  the  body  was  con- 
veyed to  Paris,  and  there  reinterred  beneath  the  Tomb  of  the 
Invalides. 

From  St.  Helena  we  proceeded  to  Rio  Janiero.  Here  we 
remained  several  days,  during  which  we  replenished  our  stock 
of  water  and  provisions.  Leaving  Rio  Janeiro,  we  shaped 
our  course  for  New  York,  where  we  arrived  on  the  3d  of  July, 
after  having  been  absent  from  home  and  friends  three  years 
and  eleven  months. 


APPENDIX.  867 


Commercial  Regulations,  made  by  the  principal 
Chiefs  of  the  Samoa  Group  of  Islands,  after  full 
consideration  in  Council,  on  the  5th  day  of 
November,  1839. — Printed  at  Samoa  Group  of 
Islands,  1840. 

Article  1st.  All  Consuls  duly  appointed,  and  received  in 
Samoa,  shall  be  protected,  both  in  their  persons  and  property, 
and  all  foreigners  obtaining  the  consent  of  the  government, 
and  conforming  to  the  laws,  shall  receive  the  protection  of  the 
government. 

Article  2d.  All  foreign  vessels  shall  be  received  into 
the  ports  and  harbors  of  Samoa,  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining 
supplies,  and  for  commerce ;  and  with  their  oflScers  and  crews, 
so  long  as  they  comply  with  these  regulations,  and  behave 
themselves  peaceably,  shall  secure  the  protection  of  the  Gov- 
ernment. 

Article  3d.  The  fullest  protection  shall  be  given  to  all 
foreign  ships  and  vessels  which  may  be  wrecked ;  and  any 
property  saved,  shall  be  taken  possession  of  by  the  Consul  of 
the  country  to  which  the  vessel  belongs,  who  will  allow  a  sal- 
vage, or  -portion  of  the  property  so  saved,  to  those  who  may 
aid  in  saving,  and  protecting  the  same,  and  no  embezzlement 
wi41  be  permitted  under  any  circumstances  whatever.  The 
eflfects  of  all  persons  deceased,  shall  be  given  up  to  the  Consul 
of  the  nation  to  which  they  may  have  belonged. 


368  APPENDIX. 


Article  4th.  Any  person  guilty  of  the  crime  of  murder, 
upon  any  foreigner,  shall  be  given  up  without  delay  to  the 
Commander  of  any  public  vessel  of  the  nation,  to  which  the 
deceased  may  have  belonged,  upon  his  demanding  the  same. 

Article  5th.  Every  vessel  shall  pay  a  Port-charge  of  five 
dollars,  for  anchorage  and  water,  before  she  will  be  allowed  to 
receive  refreshments  on  board ;  and  shall  pay  for  pilotage  in 
and  out,  the  sum  of  seven  dollars  before  she  leaves  the  harbor ; 
and  pilots  shall  be  appointed,  subject  to  the  approval  of  the 
Consuls. 

Article  6th.  No  work  shall  be  done  on  shore,  nor  shall 
any  natives  be  employed  on  board  vessels  on  the  Sabbath  day, 
under  a  penalty  of  ten  dollars,  unless  under  circumstances  of 
absolute  necessity. 

Article  Tth.  All  trading  in  spirituous  liquors,  or  landing 
the  same,  is  strictly  forbidden.  Any  person  offending,  shall 
pay  a  fine  of  twenty-five  dollars,  and  the  vessel  to  which  he 
belongs  shall  receive  no  more  refreshments.  Any  spirituous 
liquors  found  on  shore  shall  be  seized  and  destroyed. 

Article  8th.  All  deserters  from  vessels  will  be  appre- 
hended, and  a  reward  paid,  of  five  dollars,  to  the  person  who 
apprehends  him;  and  three  dollars  to  the  Chief  of  the  dis- 
trict in  which  he  may  be  apprehended,  shall  be  paid  on  his 
delivery  to  the  proper  officer  of  the  vessel.  No  Master  shall 
refuse  to  receive  such  deserter,  under  a  penalty  of  twenty-five 
dollars.  Deserters  taken  after  the  vessel  has  sailed,  shall  be 
delivered  up  to  the  Consul,  to  be  dealt  with  as  he  may  think 
fit.  Any  person  who  entices  another  to  desert,  or  in  any  way 
assists  him,  shall  be  subject  to  a  penalty  of  five  dollars,  or 
one  month's  hard  labor  on  the  public  roads. 

Article  9th.  No  Master  shall  land  a  passenger  without 
permission  of  the  Government  under  a  penalty  of  twenty-five 


APPENDIX.  869 

dollars,  and  no  individual  shall  be  permitted  to  land  or  reside 
on  the  Samoa  Group  of  Islands,  without  the  special  permission 
of  the  Government.  Any  one  so  landing,  shall  be  compelled 
to  leave  by  the  first  opportunity. 

Article  10th.  If  a  sick  person  be  left  on  shore  from  any 
vessel,  for  the  recovery  of  his  health,  he  shall  be  placed  under 
charge  of  the  Consul,  who  shall  be  responsible  for  his  sick 
expenses,  and  will  send  him  away  by  the  first  opportunity  after 
his  recovery. 

Article  11th.  Any  seaman  remaining  on  shore  after 
9  o'clock  at  night,  shall  be  made  a  prisoner  until  the  next 
morning,  when  he  shall  be  sent  on  board,  and  shall  pay  a 
penalty  of  five  dollars. 

Article  12th.  All  fines  to  be  paid  in  specie,  or  its  equi- 
valent, or  be  commuted  by  the  Government,  at  the  rate  of  one 
month's  hard  labor  on  the  public  roads  for  five  dollars. 

Article  13th.  Should  the  Master  of  any  vessel  refuse  to 
comply  with  any  of  these  regulations,  a  statement  of  the  case 
shall  be  furnished  to  the  nation,  or  the  Consul  of  the  nation 
to  which  he  belongs,  and  redress  sought  from  thence. 

Article  14th.  All  Magistrates,  or  Chiefs  of  districts, 
where  vessels  or  boats  may  visit,  shall  enforce  the  rules  and 
regulations  relative  to  the  landing  of  foreigners  and  appre- 
hension of  deserters,  or  pay  such  fine  as  the  Malo  shall 
impose. 

Article  15th.  For  carrying  into  efiect  the  foregoing 
rules  and  regulations,  the  Chiefs  and  tula  fale  of  the  respec- 
tive districts,  shall  meet  and  elect  one  of  their  number  to  act 
as  Magistrate  or  Judge,  to  execute  the  laws. 

Article  16th.  These  regulations  shall  be  printed,  pro- 
mulgated, and  a  copy  furnished  to  the  master  of  each  vessel 
visiting  these  Islands. 


370  APPENDIX, 


Similar  regulations  were  adopted  by  the  Fejee  Chiefs, 
omitting  the  6th,  9th,  10th,  12th,  and  15th  Articles,  and 
signed  by  the  following  chiefs : — » 

Their  Their 

Ro  X  TANOA,  Ro  X   MATANABABA, 

Ro  X   TUIDREKETI  Ro  X  VEIBALIYAKI, 

Philips  X  Cokanauto,  Ro  X  ligalevu, 

Ro  X   NAVUNIVALU,  Ro  X   KALAI, 

Ro  X   KOROITIUSAVAU,  Ro  X   VAKACOKAI. 


Ro  X   QUARANIGIO, 

Marks. 


Marks. 


Done  in  Council  by  the  principal  Kings  and  Chiefs  of  the 
Fejee  Group,  this  10th  day  of  June,  1840.  The  foregoing 
Rules  and  Regulations  having  been  signed  by  the  Kings  and 
Chiefs  in  my  presence,  and  submitted  to  me,  I  consider  them 
just  and  proper,  and  shall  forward  to  the  American  Govern- 
^ment  a  copy  of  the  same  for  the  information  of  all  masters 
of  vessels  visiting  the  Fejee  Group  of  Islands. 

(Signed)  Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  U.  States 

Exploring  Expedition. 

U.  S.  ship  "  Vincennes," 
Harbor  of  Ban,  June  10th,  1840. 

In  presence  of 

Wm.  L.  Hudson,  commanding  U.  S.  ship  "  Peacock,'' 
Commander  Ringgold,  commanding  U.  S.  brig  "  Porpoise,'^ 
R.  R.  Waldron,  U.  S.  Navy, 
B.  Vanderford,  Pilot. 


APPENDIX.  371 


Names  of  the  persons  composing  the  Expedition  to  Alta 
California : — 

Lieutenant  Emmons, 

Passed  Midshipman  Eld, 

Passed  Midshipman  Colvocoresses, 

Assistant- Surgeon  Whittle, 

J.  R.  Peale,  Naturalist, 

J.  D.  Dana,  Geologist, 

W.  R.  Rich,  Botanist, 

A.  J.  Agate,  Artist, 

J.  D.  Brackenridge,  Assistant-Botanist, 

Sergeant  Stearns, 

Corporal  Hughes, 

Privates  Smith  and  Marsh, 

Doughty,  Sutton,  Merzer,  and  Waltham^  Seamen, 

Baptist  Guardipi,  Guide, 

TiBBATs,  Black,  Wood,  Warfield,  Molan,  and  Inass, 
Hunters, 

Mr.  Walker  and  family,  emigrating  to  California, 

Mr.  Barrows,  wife  and  child,  do.  do. 

Mr.  Nichols, 

Mrs.  Warfield  and  child. 

The  whole  party  numbered  thirty-nine,  with  seventy-sjx 
animals,  thirty- two  of  which  were  Government  property. 


POPULAR,   USEFUL,  AND  AMUSING 


PARLEY'S  BOOK  OF  ANIMALS. 

HoyallSmo.    320  pp.    200  Illustrations. 


T.  S.  ABTHUB'S  TALES  EOS  RICH  AND  POOS. 

New  Improyed  Edition.    18mo,  cloth. 

I  Keeping  up  Appearances.  lY.  Making  Haste  to  be  Rich. 

IL  Riches  have  Wings.  V.  Debtor  and  Creditor. 

m  Rising  in  the  World.  VI.  Retiring  from  Business. 


TOUNGPS  FIBST  LESSONS  IN  CIVIL  GOVERNMENT. 

With  Appendix,  containing  Parliamentary  Rules.    20th  Edition,  rerised. 


CALIFORNIA  ILLTJSTRATED, 

Including  a  description  of  the  Panama  and  Nicaragua  Routes.    By  J.  M.  Lktts. 
48  tinted  lithographic  illustrations.    324  pp.,  Svo.    Cloth,  gilt    Price  $2. 


BEACH'S  AMERICAN  PRACTICE  AND  FAMILY  PHYSICIAN. 

8to,  sheep.    800  pages. 


THE  PEOPLE'S  READY  RECKONER. 

A  new  work,  on  a  new  and  beautiful  plan,  by  which,  in  a  cheap  and  compaet 

form,  the  result  of  the  most  minute  and  extensire  calculations 

are  shown  at  a  glance. 


Also,  YOUNG'S  IMPROVED  ADHESIVE  LETTER,  INVOICE,  AND 
MUSIC  FILE. 

BBTAIL. 

Cap.  Packet  Post,  and  Letter  sizes,  250  leares,  cloth  sides,  $1  00  each  I  $9  per  do& 

"  "  «•  ««      500      "  «•  1  50   "        15     " 

Music  stylos,  $1,  $1  25,  and  $1  50  each. 


POCKET  DIARY  FOR  THE  COMING  YEAR. 

Tuck,  gilt  edges. 

R.  T.  TOUIVO, 

140  FULTON  STREET,   NEW   fORK. 


RETURN  TO  the  circulation  desk  of  any 
University  of  California  Library 
or  to  the 
NORTHERN  REGIONAL  LIBRARY  FACILITY 
Bldg.  400,  Richmond  Field  Station 
University  of  California 
Richmond,  CA  94804-4698 

ALL  BOOKS  MAY  BE  RECALLED  AFTER  7  DAYS 

•  2-month  loans  may  be  renewed  by  calling 
(510)642-6753 

•  1-year  loans  may  be  recharged  by  bringing 
books  to  NRLF 

•  Renewals  and  recharges  may  be  made  4 
days  prior  to  due  date. 

DUE  AS  STAMPED  BELOW 


JUHOi 


1998 


APR  tii9aa 


12,000(11/95) 


-^1 


N9  537371 


Colvocoresses,  G.K. 

Four  years  in  a 
government  exploring 
expedition* 


Q115 
W8 
C6 
1853 


^^ 


LIBRARY 

UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA 

DAVIS 


